Tin melt 45OF boil 4800f ?

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AztekShine

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 7, 2012
Messages
336
Location
Rogers,AR
So I can hit 450F. 4800F maby if I daisy chain 100 microwaves together! Don't try this...

When I incenarate this Tin will be little bb's in my "incenarator"? What happens when Tin melts?

Edit: came across this problem by re-reading Hoke by the way 8)
 
AztekShine said:
So I can hit 450F. 4800F maby if I daisy chain 100 microwaves together! Don't try this...

When I incenarate this Tin will be little bb's in my "incenarator"? What happens when Tin melts?

Edit: came across this problem by re-reading Hoke by the way 8)

Hi Aztekshine: Not sure what wiki says, but i live by ISI chemical hand book which states that the boiling point for Tin is 4118F or 2270C.

What form is your tin in before ashing? Please

Deano
 
Wiki said 47and-some-change.....but I only plan on hitting around that number later in my career with the addition of Oxygen :lol:

Fingers, really small fingers... I'm working with flat packs which look like tin fingers... Wow I just realized I questioned myself and am going by looks and no investagation!

Anyways I break the pack in half and it's really silver/glass like inside also I assume it's ceramic.

Edit: It's Will by the way!

Will
 
I could be wrong... Here's a snipit from a patent of a similar flat pack as the 2 big square ones ...
"Thereafter, a silver plating treatment is performed whereby, as shown in FIG. 8, silver plated layers 9A and 9B are formed on the bonding areas 8A and 8B, respectively, of the upper and lower inner leads 7A, 7B."
 
Hi Will - i sort of do the same thing, first i pyrolyze(high heat > 500C, NO air), grind, sieve through 3mm mesh. What you end up with is: 1. fines <3mm which contains carbon(lots of it), some wire/pins, small beads, ceramic and fillers etc. 2. bigger bits >3mm which contains metal beads, pins, cermanics, small metal heatsinks of various composition, and bits that need regrinding.

The metal beads are generally soft and contain solder, silver, Pd, Au. The solder tends to flow during pyrolysis and collect more solder and PM's along the way forming beads greater than 3mm. The beads i collect, and when their is enough i melt and skim off the crusty litharge that forms at temperatures just above the melting point of the allow beads. The more and more you skimm off the higher the temperature requirered to keep it in the molten form. At the point litharge itself becomes molten is the time i pour into a mould ready for cupellation.

The remainder, after removal of beads and large pins/heat sinks, is treated with a magnet to remove any iron, then it is mixed with the litharge from above and the <3mm fines to form a mix ready for ashing through my pipe asher.

This produces a hole bunch more metal beads which are treated as above, the remainder is inspected to ensure complete ashing has occured, if so, then it is smelted using flux and them poured into a mould ready for the cupel.

Bit of a novel, but thats how im trying to do it, what do you think?

Deano
 
Deano,
I think your thinking way to far out of my box. I haven't even considered cupellation. Seems legit, but I will be saving my beads also untill I can wrap my brain around it.

So I gather from what your saying is that yes this is tin solder?
 
Hi Will - I have just started to dabble with cupels, mixed result thus far.

Yes to the tin/lead based solder, though silver solder does pop it's head from time to time.

The tin, from my last experiment, seems to pose a problem, in that it refused to melt with the litharge and instead forms a crust on top preventing any further oxidation. This means i needed to remove as much tin as posible by direct flame oxidation, clean off white crust, and repeat until it ceases form, then add tin free lead and cupel. I am still in the oxidation process.

Anyone else out there encounter this problem?? Please
 
Lead is kind of scary when dealing with such high temperature. I have made my own black powder maxi loads before. I haven't read up on the process either so I don't know wether my concerns are valid.

I did do some experiments with mercury when I was younger and dumer... Not to say I would do it again!
 
NoIdea said:
Hi Will - I have just started to dabble with cupels, mixed result thus far.

Yes to the tin/lead based solder, though silver solder does pop it's head from time to time.

The tin, from my last experiment, seems to pose a problem, in that it refused to melt with the litharge and instead forms a crust on top preventing any further oxidation. This means i needed to remove as much tin as posible by direct flame oxidation, clean off white crust, and repeat until it ceases form, then add tin free lead and cupel. I am still in the oxidation process.

Anyone else out there encounter this problem?? Please


Modern solder might not contain a high enough percentage of lead. I wonder if you would have better results adding more lead at the start as a collector also serving to lower the melt temperature. The conversion of lead to litharge is important to the fire assay process but molten lead also plays a role. The litharge is a solvent for slagging the base metal oxides.
 
Oh also unless you hit 717F throughout the entire pile of material for a extended amount of time. Your not going to drop all the tin off. So HCL soak would be called for.
 

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