where to find 1.5volt and 20+ amp power supply

[ericrm]

is there a way to get a dc power supply 1.5 &- volt and 20 amp &+ from dismanteling something.
where can i find something like that ,i have start looking on ebay but so far no luck...
of course for cheap....
any suggestion would be nice
i can still trade board for it if you have one you dont need
thank you
Eric

 

[rusty]

is there a way to get a dc power supply 1.5 &- volt and 20 amp &+ from dismanteling something.
where can i find something like that ,i have start looking on ebay but so far no luck...
of course for cheap....
any suggestion would be nice
i can still trade board for it if you have one you dont need
thank you
Eric

I see your in Canada, I'll sell you my Kocour plating rectifier 0 - 6 volts, 25 amps for $250.00 shipping included in price - Greyhound.

It's an oldie but very solidly built American rectifier fuse and overheat protected.

 

[publius]

Rusty, If Eric doesn't want it, I'll take it for $250 USD. :shock:

 

[ericrm]

Publius and Rusty
im already interested :lol:
but i realy dont know much about those thing aparently 250$ is a good deal righ?
since you apear to know that thing, will i be able to use it to deplate and plate?
do i have to take care of it in a special manner,it is very acidic in my environnement does that will cause probleme?
anything that a should know
does it work on 110V or 220V?
i want to use it ,for sulfuric cell,nitric cell, and chloride cell , can i use it that way?
thank you that help me a lot

 

[rusty]

publius the $250.00 postage inclusive is for Canada via Greyhound freight, Virginia is going to cost you an extra $30.00 for a total of $280.00 all inclusive via Canada Post.

I recently parted 75 lbs of copper anodes using the power supply.

The rectifier, 120 volts ac, output 0 - 6 DC volts 25 amps, copper wound transformer. Operation silent no transformer or line hum.

 

[publius]

$280 is not the problem. 8) The problem is when you can ship! :mrgreen:

 

[ericrm]

it is already sold 8)

 

[rusty]

it is already sold 8)

SOLD Thanks Eric aka ericrm

 

[publius]

it is already sold 8)

SOLD Thanks Eric aka ericrm

So sad... 8)

 

[rusty]

it is already sold 8)

SOLD Thanks Eric aka ericrm

So sad... 8)

It's not the first time I have offered it for sale on the forum.

 

[resabed01]

Hummmmm... Maybe there's a market for low voltage, high amperage power supplies.

 

[ericrm]

sure is...
what you got?

 

[Claudie]

I have scrapped a few electric welders. They have some major transformers in there. Would you be able to build a power supply, like what you need, from one of them? Was that a little over kill?

 

[rusty]

Help me rescue my reputation. buyer has received rectifier. Received this PM only minutes ago. I'm posting this publicly to keep my dealings transparent to all.

Gill
i just receive the rectifier and it doesnt appear to work.
i have try in the house to plug it ,it doesnt make sound or light
i have try to put 2 wire and put it in salt water still nothing,i have checked voltage indicator nothing move
i even try to touch the 2 wire again my finger and nothing, not even a tickel....
can you help me figure out what to do plz

Light only comes on to indicate overvoltage and overheating. Rectifier does no make any sound, check fuse under flap door, there is a 30 amp fuse same as that type used in electric range.

6 volt DC will not give you - tickle, two small wires in salt water not enough surface area on electrodes.

Rectifier was securely packaged to avoid damage during shipping.

Eric post a picture of where you have the wire connection to the front panel. also would like to see where you have the rheostat set at.

 

[Geo]

surely you have a volt-meter. i have a Realistic multi-meter that will just about test anything. the cheapest ones are maybe $5 - $10 and will tell you with certainty how much voltage and amperage your getting (well not at the same time unless you have a $70 model like mine). you can test ,say, a wall socket to see if its charged or a fuse to see if its blown. trying to figure out an electrical problem without a volt-meter is like refining without testing with stannous chloride.

 

[element47]

Even though it is not my first "idealogical" choice, I am impressed with kadriver's appraoch to re-using computer power supplies. There are a lot of plusses here. Free, easy AC supply, fused, fan. Fan probably adjusts its speed when the current is high, so you can hear that. If you make the external connections (other than AC, of course) using a sawn-out section of a motherboard, in other words, using that standard connector, then if you blow one up you can replace it in one minute.

Sure, I would rather have a benchtop supply with proper meters, but I think you will find that when these get to be highish current, say over 15 amps, they start to get costly. A PC power supply can generally supply 20+ amps out of its low voltage (3.3 or 5v) output.

 

[ericrm]

this was my response...

i dont know what is did but it work now
both fuse was ok ,i put then back in and volt meter work from 0.5 to 10
i have test it with salt water and appear to work.

the amp meter doesnt seem to move ,do you know if it is broken or if it is something else?
tanks for the help i bet i sound as new as i am with this :roll:
Eric

Help me rescue my reputation. buyer has received rectifier. Received this PM only minutes ago. I'm posting this publicly to keep my dealings transparent to all.

Gill
i just receive the rectifier and it doesnt appear to work.
i have try in the house to plug it ,it doesnt make sound or light
i have try to put 2 wire and put it in salt water still nothing,i have checked voltage indicator nothing move
i even try to touch the 2 wire again my finger and nothing, not even a tickel....
can you help me figure out what to do plz

Light only comes on to indicate overvoltage and overheating. Rectifier does no make any sound, check fuse under flap door, there is a 30 amp fuse same as that type used in electric range.

6 volt DC will not give you - tickle, two small wires in salt water not enough surface area on electrodes.

Rectifier was securely packaged to avoid damage during shipping.

Eric post a picture of where you have the wire connection to the front panel. also would like to see where you have the rheostat set at.

evething is fine :lol:
Gill your reputation is safe .THE RECTIFIER IS NOW OK i dont know what i did but it apears to work ... maybe a bad contact in the fuse (probably, since it is the only thing that i touch...)
im a old ebay buyer as soon i see something strange i advise the seller , dont worry even broken i would have keep it ...

im a very understandable person but i only have one thing that i feel bad about

I'm posting this publicly to keep my dealings transparent to all.

what happen between a seller and a buyer stay between a buyer and a seller ,it is not the world business
anyway
thanks a lot, i have apreciated dealing with you
sincerely
Eric

 

[rusty]

this was my response...

i dont know what is did but it work now
both fuse was ok ,i put then back in and volt meter work from 0.5 to 10
i have test it with salt water and appear to work.

the amp meter doesnt seem to move ,do you know if it is broken or if it is something else?
tanks for the help i bet i sound as new as i am with this :roll:
Eric

Help me rescue my reputation. buyer has received rectifier. Received this PM only minutes ago. I'm posting this publicly to keep my dealings transparent to all.

Gill
i just receive the rectifier and it doesnt appear to work.
i have try in the house to plug it ,it doesnt make sound or light
i have try to put 2 wire and put it in salt water still nothing,i have checked voltage indicator nothing move
i even try to touch the 2 wire again my finger and nothing, not even a tickel....
can you help me figure out what to do plz

Light only comes on to indicate overvoltage and overheating. Rectifier does no make any sound, check fuse under flap door, there is a 30 amp fuse same as that type used in electric range.

6 volt DC will not give you - tickle, two small wires in salt water not enough surface area on electrodes.

Rectifier was securely packaged to avoid damage during shipping.

Eric post a picture of where you have the wire connection to the front panel. also would like to see where you have the rheostat set at.

evething is fine :lol:
Gill your reputation is safe .THE RECTIFIER IS NOW OK i dont know what i did but it apears to work ... maybe a bad contact in the fuse (probably, since it is the only thing that i touch...)
im a old ebay buyer as soon i see something strange i advise the seller , dont worry even broken i would have keep it ...

im a very understandable person but i only have one thing that i feel bad about

I'm posting this publicly to keep my dealings transparent to all.

what happen between a seller and a buyer stay between a buyer and a seller ,it is not the world business

My reputation as a seller is very important to me and I take it personal that my customer is fully satisfied with each sale there is good will.

The forum is like a big family transparency helps to build confidence within the community.

 

[jmdlcar]

publius the $250.00 postage inclusive is for Canada via Greyhound freight, Virginia is going to cost you an extra $30.00 for a total of $280.00 all inclusive via Canada Post.

I recently parted 75 lbs of copper anodes using the power supply.

The rectifier, 120 volts ac, output 0 - 6 DC volts 25 amps, copper wound transformer. Operation silent no transformer or line hum.

I remember in the early 60 seeing one of these at Wheelus Air Base in Libya.

 

[goldsilverpro]

Those Kocours are old workhorse rectifiers. I've had several in my labs over the years. We had one in the 1st lab I worked, in 1966. Besides using it for Hull Cell panels, it powered a unique, simple plating thickness measuring device (still made, I think) by Kocour. The rest of those on the market probe the surface with beta particles or x-rays. They need tons of expensive standards of various combinations of metals. The Kocour generally only needs one, maybe 2, for each individual metal.

The Kocour thickness measuring machine actually dissolves about a 3/16" diameter circle of a plated surface, electrolytically. The instant the dissolving solution breaks through to the underlying metal, the current changes, the machine senses the change, shuts the current off, and you get a thickness reading. If you have gold over nickel over copper, you put a few ml of gold dissolving solution in the rubber cup which is sealed against the gold plated surface, turn on the juice and set the proper voltage (or, is it the amperage?). The gold starts dissolving and when it cuts through to the nickel (about 20-30 sec, or more, if I remember right - depends on the thickness), you get a gold thickness reading. Then, if you're interested in the nickel, you rinse the rubber cup, put nickel dissolving solution in it, and take a reading when it breaks through to the copper. Neat machine. Looks like they've made it a lot more complicated, though.
http://www.kocour.net/pdfs/uploads/6000ManualV.5.11.11_4_12_2011_10_44_13_AM.pdf