Eco-goldex CYANIDE Leach

[Yggdrasil]

Hmm alright.

If you could educate me.. what could be wrong if I used AR direct for the peelings.. I mean Ive seen many do the HCl/cl on those so AR could also be fine right?

People, at least the ones that know what they are doing are not using HCl/Cl or AR on these.
If you do you need to dissolve all metal also the metal inside the PCBs
Youn risk Gold cementing out in side the traces, until you have your foils in a filter you do NOT want to dissolve any Gold.
Where do this thing come from by the way?
Cupric Chloride leach and AR are worlds apart.

 

[J.Najam]

until you have your foils in a filter you do NOT want to dissolve any Gold.

Wait wait.. this is exactly what I plan to do sir. Peel the skins and treat those only along with the IC chips recovered in a process separately. All in one filter then dissolve and drop

 

[Yggdrasil]

Wait wait.. this is exactly what I plan to do sir. Peel the skins and treat those only along with the IC chips recovered in a process separately. All in one filter then dissolve and drop

No, not the ICs or Chips at the same time as foils.
They need totally different approaches.
Well why do you dissolve the Gold directly then?
It seems to me that you have a lot of studying to do before you are safe for handling chemicals.
Have you read the book from Hoke and the recommended threads about safety and waste treatment?

 

[Yggdrasil]

Wait wait.. this is exactly what I plan to do sir. Peel the skins and treat those only along with the IC chips recovered in a process separately. All in one filter then dissolve and drop

That is what the Cupric Chloride etch do, it dissolves the Copper under the Gold foils.

 

[Martijn]

Take the loss of that 150 grams of 'fingers'. I doubt it will be more than 0.2 grams.
Treat it as waste.
I don't know how to treat cyanide waste properly. Others will have to help you with that. Don't mix it with any acids.

Stop fooling around and playing with your life! Seriously. You don't know what you're doing.

Put this aside and study. Read Hoke and then read Hoke. Then read it again.
Study how to deal with waste.
Study safety.
Once you've done that, try to understand the AP aka cupric chloride leach.
If you have a question or want to try something out, ask us first!

https://goldrefiningforum.com/threa...imple-question-and-get-a-simple-answer.21412/

 

[Shark]

“peelings” ???

While reading up on this check out the post on the terms we use. Proper wording helps a lot.

 

[J.Najam]

Ok, Ill try my best to go through Hokes book about refining. But where do I start? I mean theres tonnes of knowledge over there about multiple different processes. Which one to go for? I only fear ill end up getting myself lost and confused in it. Its a totally different world.

On another note, anyone can please clarify this. It looks super fine brown powder wouldn't react with HCl. Now is it gold or am I looking at something else?

 

[Shark]

As for reading Hoke’s book it is written in very basic wording. The book was written for those who are not chemist or even highly educated. It is very easy to follow and if you hit an area that causes you problems…ask.

As for your pictures, I am not up on cyanide so I prefer some of the others help you there.

 

[galenrog]

My suggestion on reading Hoke is the same as I give for any study material. It is a technique that works for me.

Read. Read again. By now, you will have a basic understanding of the language of the refiner, but not a good understanding of technique. Read a third time, making written notes and questions. Bring those questions to the Forum. Perform the acquaintance experiments found. Write your observations for each.

Follow this format, and you will have a basic understanding of refining precious metals. Please keep in mind that Hoke was published over 70 years ago. One of the available versions found on Frugalrefiner’s signature line includes notes addressing important issues regarding safety and technique that have changed over the years.

Enjoy.

Time for more coffee.

 

[Yggdrasil]

Ok, Ill try my best to go through Hokes book about refining. But where do I start? I mean theres tonnes of knowledge over there about multiple different processes. Which one to go for? I only fear ill end up getting myself lost and confused in it. Its a totally different world.

On another note, anyone can please clarify this. It looks super fine brown powder wouldn't react with HCl. Now is it gold or am I looking at something else?

There are people in here that is very knowledgeable in Cyanides, but not too many used to these magic potions,
though there have been a few asking a bout them having trouble, they tend to disappear relatively quick and do not report if their trouble was solved or not.
Pictures of mixed powders is not possible to identify with any degree of certainty.
Use of strong Peroxide and UV will destroy the Cyanide component I believe.
After that filter the solids and so on as in the waste treatment thread, letting the solids properly dry in the sun.
Then you can let the liquids evaporate in the sun and add what ever solids from that be joined with the others.
So now you should have some 50-100 grams of solids that can be kept in a closed jar or disposed in special waste.
And nothing have been poured down the drain.
And as Galenrog say , read the book, then read it again with more focus on the areas of interest and
then you read the chapters of need with renewed interest and making notes.
The book do not focus on e-waste but the chemistry behind things and will give you a foundation to build on.

 

[BlackLabel]

As found on page 3 of this post

As for toxicity, it is a lot less dangerous than potassium cyanide, LD50 is 3.6 g/kg [1] compared to 7.5 mg/kg [2] for potassium cyanide, a difference of 500 times less toxic.
The risk of harm from accidental transfer via fingers or dust is a lot better than with straight cyanide.

If the end result from Eco-goldex leach is the same as with cyanide, a cyanide gold complex, then the gold should be possible to recover in the same way as with cyanide. For example by cementation with zinc.

Please expand my understanding on this

Thanks

Does it matter, if you could be 500 times more dead than dead?

 

[Martijn]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanide
Read the whole page. Lost of info there.

 

[J.Najam]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanide
Read the whole page. Lost of info there.

I just gave it a glance right now and will be doing my study on it in the coming days..

For the process that I had been up in, has been kept aside. Washed off any excess zinc and just stored the dark grey zinc particles in a separate beaker with some fresh water.

Thankyou to each and everyone of you seniors for your valuable input and advice although a few seemed stern and strict in sharing their views but anyhow I respect your views and shall be posting up again soon. Thanks!

 

[Heavy-Black-Sand]

Does anyone have experience with this process?
It looks interesting, what do you think about it? It may be solution for processing pins and plated material from electronics, it looks like cyanide leach but bit more on safer side of things.

Just wondering if anyone has any new updates or insights into this product .... since the last post here was aprox. 6 months ago.

 

[patnor1011]

Just wondering if anyone has any new updates or insights into this product .... since the last post here was aprox. 6 months ago.

This topic was beat to death.
It is practically ferrocyanide leach with some additional chemicals and there is no need to think about it too much. Straight ferrocyanide will work the same way without need of some proprietary magic powders or solutions and steps.
It is cyanide based leach so use and recovery should follow all known cyanide procedures and precautions. It is not really a process for just anyone who decide they want to try it.

 

[kurtak]

Based on my personal experience (when this product was first introduced to this forum I got some to run some testing on it to see if it is really all it claims to be) here is my recommendation -----

DO NOT waste your time &/or money on this this product for the following reasons

1) This is a cyanide based product - so you NEED to FULLY understand the dangers (death) as well as ALL of the safety protocols that go with working with cyanide

2) Though this (cyanide) product works well at putting gold into solution it is VERY difficult at getting your gold back out of solution & in fact will likely not get all the gold back out of solution

DO NOT waste your time & money on this product ......... - that is a bunch of periods at the end of that last sentence --- this product is NOT all they claim it to be .......

Kurt