Eco-goldex CYANIDE Leach

[Yggdrasil]

Attached are pictures of my latest result of the sediment as can be seen... process on hold since last night

I was about to decant this as it is, then place the beaker on a hotplate and process with minute additions of HCL

I have been in contact with one person using JinChan and he had a manual saying it had to be leached at minimum 10.5 pH to be effective.
So what you are doing now is looking more and more reckless at best.
Please stop it NOW!!

 

[kurtak]

And by adding acid to it will release of toxic Cyanide gas!!!!

And not TOXIC as in might make you sick - but rather TOXIC as in CAN & WILL KILL YOU !!!!!!!!

Kurt

 

[J.Najam]

You do know that what you are doing now most likely is a Cyanide leach. And by adding acid to it will ris release of toxic Cyanide gas!!!!

I guess this was the only way I have been asked to do it. By adding Sulfuric acid to remove the excess zinc and keep sponge gold. I'm using HCl instead of h2so4

I have been in contact with one person using JinChan and he had a manual saying it had to be leached at minimum 10.5 pH to be effective.
So what you are doing now is looking more and more reckless at best.
Please stop it NOW!!

11.5 + for leaching and pH dropped to 4.5-5 for turning the alkali into acidic state for precipitation.

but rather TOXIC as in CAN & WILL KILL YOU !!!!!!!!

I don't quite think the sales rep gave me any other method to do so... This is all that I was told and all that I have been doing. I can even list down the procedure that I now have come to understand how this thing may work. But it can have many upsets in the process as well.. It is my last time and I think after being done with whatever gold I may have in the solution/precipitate is what I'll recover and get done with this reagent for good...

 

[kurtak]

Doesn't matter, I'd like to achieve even that as my first official harvest.. been trying ever since only manages 0.1g. Frustration galore

Per the bold print - the amount of gold may not matter - but what does matter is YOUR LIFE

If this product turns out to be a CYANIDE product like eco-goldex - playing &/or experimenting with it CAN KILL YOU !!!!

Unless you FULLY understand EVERYTHING about working with cyanide you are putting YOUR LIFE at risk !!!

Experimenting &/or play with cyanide does not give you any second chances - when you make a mistake

In other words; - when an experiment with cyanide goes bad - you don't get a second chance to come back & try again !!!

I strongly suggest that until you take the time to learn &/or get a better understanding of things related to refine that STOP what you are doing - put everything away & start doing some real research - & then start asking questions if you don't understand something

Experimenting can lead to serious injury & or death & all the gold in the world is not worth your health/life - much let alone a few gram

Kurt

 

[J.Najam]

but what does matter is YOUR LIFE

I really appreciate your concern sir, but I read somewhere in this thread that this is lox toxicity. wait ill highlight in once again. maybe you can guide me what it means. also I'll share a link. You may probably be aware of this guy :



He has everything in detail. But obviously I can't come out of these issues that I'm stuck with...

Following his procedure, my next step was decant => filter => HCL => refine

 

[J.Najam]

Per the bold print - the amount of gold may not matter - but what does matter is YOUR LIFE

If this product turns out to be a CYANIDE product like eco-goldex - playing &/or experimenting with it CAN KILL YOU !!!!

Unless you FULLY understand EVERYTHING about working with cyanide you are putting YOUR LIFE at risk !!!

Experimenting &/or play with cyanide does not give you any second chances - when you make a mistake

In other words; - when an experiment with cyanide goes bad - you don't get a second chance to come back & try again !!!

I strongly suggest that until you take the time to learn &/or get a better understanding of things related to refine that STOP what you are doing - put everything away & start doing some real research - & then start asking questions if you don't understand something

Experimenting can lead to serious injury & or death & all the gold in the world is not worth your health/life - much let alone a few gram

Kurt

As found on page 3 of this post

As for toxicity, it is a lot less dangerous than potassium cyanide, LD50 is 3.6 g/kg [1] compared to 7.5 mg/kg [2] for potassium cyanide, a difference of 500 times less toxic.
The risk of harm from accidental transfer via fingers or dust is a lot better than with straight cyanide.

If the end result from Eco-goldex leach is the same as with cyanide, a cyanide gold complex, then the gold should be possible to recover in the same way as with cyanide. For example by cementation with zinc.

Please expand my understanding on this

Thanks

 

[Martijn]

Those 'fingers' are not clean cut fingers.

These are components. ICs resistors diodes capacitors etc.
They are attached with solder to the board.
You've made quite a mess.
I dont know how to treat that but others will.

 

[Yggdrasil]

I guess this was the only way I have been asked to do it. By adding Sulfuric acid to remove the excess zinc and keep sponge gold. I'm using HCl instead of h2so4

11.5 + for leaching and pH dropped to 4.5-5 for turning the alkali into acidic state for precipitation.

I don't quite think the sales rep gave me any other method to do so... This is all that I was told and all that I have been doing. I can even list down the procedure that I now have come to understand how this thing may work. But it can have many upsets in the process as well.. It is my last time and I think after being done with whatever gold I may have in the solution/precipitate is what I'll recover and get done with this reagent for good...

For Cyanide release any acid will do.
It may or may not be ok.
Anyway stay safe and on a distance when doing anything with this.

 

[J.Najam]

Those 'fingers' are not clean cut fingers.
View attachment 56457
These are components. ICs resistors diodes capacitors etc.
They are attached with solder to the board.
You've made quite a mess.
I dont know how to treat that but others will.

The one you have marked, is like one of the three or four pieces only that had these on them. Having said that, I was told it makes no difference as it is a solid component and that the solution would not penetrate the surface anyhow so whatever is concealed stays in its original condition..

 

[J.Najam]

For Cyanide release any acid will do.
It may or may not be ok.
Anyway stay safe and on a distance when doing anything with this.

Like I said, maybe my last process with this, but yes I'm wearing full safety equipment as well as have a blow fan that redirects any generated fumes in the opposite direction away from my work area.

 

[J.Najam]

Those 'fingers' are not clean cut fingers.

This is the ultimate reason that I knew other technique could generate a far greater mess than what it is, I should have filtered after citric pH adjustment for as far as I know.

 

[Yggdrasil]

Like I said, maybe my last process with this, but yes I'm wearing full safety equipment as well as have a blow fan that redirects any generated fumes in the opposite direction away from my work area.

What we react to is the way you do it, in one moment you say Cyanide is no no and the next you are up to your neck in Cyanide bearing solution.
It do not indicate the patience and afterthought needed to survive this hobby.

 

[Yggdrasil]

This is the ultimate reason that I knew other technique could generate a far greater mess than what it is, I should have filtered after citric pH adjustment for as far as I know.

A plain Cupric Chloride leach process would have fixed this in a short time, without the issues and trouble you see now.

 

[Martijn]

This is the ultimate reason that I knew other technique could generate a far greater mess than what it is, I should have filtered after citric pH adjustment for as far as I know.

You should have used this:

 

[Martijn]

The one you have marked, is like one of the three or four pieces only that had these on them. Having said that, I was told it makes no difference as it is a solid component and that the solution would not penetrate the surface anyhow so whatever is concealed stays in its original condition..

Have you researched which metals will dissolve in cyanide and how they react?
A little solder can create a mess in this field with chemicals like nitric and we try to avoid dealing with it.
It does matter what you put in the mix. A lot.
Why create a mess if you can simply cut it off?

 

[J.Najam]

What we react to is the way you do it, in one moment you say Cyanide is no no and the next you are up to your neck in Cyanide bearing solution.
It do not indicate the patience and afterthought needed to survive this hobby.

Yes, Cyanide is not my field of play. But since I had a solution and I had alreadybstarted something with it before I had even posted about the no no os why Ibhad to go on.

Secondly Cupric chloride is another way to go but you can see the condition the way i trimmed those fingers, after many thoughts I assumed it would be difficult to filter out any the smaller pieces, see for yourself in the pictures. They're not good for the chloride leech process. So I just thought.. just this one last time with Jin Chan. It'll be my last resort in the future should I have nothing else to use.

 

[J.Najam]

researched which metals will dissolve in cyanide and how they react?

I wish I had done that and not blindly trusted the agent who said it's all safe-play. And non toxic bla bla... Even after that I had to connect the do to enjoin the bits and pieces of the process shared with me.

BIGGEST LESSON OF MY LIFE!

Why create a mess if you can simply cut it off?

For next time, I plan on just using a solder iron and a few hours to peel these off and direct AR it with IC bond wires.

Does this sound like an okay procedure?

Kindly feedback

 

[Yggdrasil]

I wish I had done that and not blindly trusted the agent who said it's all safe-play. And non toxic bla bla... Even after that I had to connect the do to enjoin the bits and pieces of the process shared with me.

BIGGEST LESSON OF MY LIFE!


For next time, I plan on just using a solder iron and a few hours to peel these off and direct AR it with IC bond wires.

Does this sound like an okay procedure?

Kindly feedback

Do what Martijn said. Find some tin snips or big scissor and cut them off as close to the Gold as you can.
Some was like that.

Edit spelling

 

[J.Najam]

Do what Martijn said. Find some tin snips ir big scissor and cut them off as close to the Gold as you can.
Some was like that.

Hmm alright.

If you could educate me.. what could be wrong if I used AR direct for the peelings.. I mean Ive seen many do the HCl/cl on those so AR could also be fine right?

 

[J.Najam]

Hmm alright.

If you could educate me.. what could be wrong if I used AR direct for the peelings.. I mean Ive seen many do the HCl/cl on those so AR could also be fine right?

I mean its all the more less chemical usage in this process