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golddie said:
Hi gustavus
Thanks for that picture
I am in Montreal and I would like to do some casting for money and refining
I am saying maybe garages need casting done for auto parts they cant find on the market
I might do jewelery casting later because I want to start one step at a time
What other kind of businesses would need casting
Click to expand...

Thats the neat thing about metal casting you can change your production line to meet current market demands - follow the money.

Here's a couple of Australian chaps who did just that, they cast an after market Austin Healey Alloy Engine Block, they took a cast iron Healey block and cut it into sections allowing them to reverse engineer the mold.

http://www.dmdaustralia.com.au/block.html

And here you can purchase after market aluminum alloy heads for that 426 Hemi waiting for high performance rebuild.

http://www.stagev.com/pages/426hemihead.html
 
I would like your valuable opinions people
http://www.princessauto.com/vmchk/view-all-products-in-shop?Search_x=41&Search_y=6&keyword=torch
---------
heavy duty victor style welding & cutting kit
Kit will cut up to 1-1/2" and weld up to 1/4"
Price $279.99
-------------
medium duty harris style welding & cutting kit
Kit will cut up to 1" and weld up to 1/4"
Price $229.99
------------
medium duty victor style welding & cutting kit
Kit will cut up to 1/2" and weld up to 1/4"
Price $229.99

Which one should I buy
Thanks
 
golddie said:
I would like your valuable opinions people
http://www.princessauto.com/vmchk/view-all-products-in-shop?Search_x=41&Search_y=6&keyword=torch
---------
heavy duty victor style welding & cutting kit
Kit will cut up to 1-1/2" and weld up to 1/4"
Price $279.99
-------------
medium duty harris style welding & cutting kit
Kit will cut up to 1" and weld up to 1/4"
Price $229.99
------------
medium duty victor style welding & cutting kit
Kit will cut up to 1/2" and weld up to 1/4"
Price $229.99

Which one should I buy
Thanks
Click to expand...

I don't know about a Harris, Victor is the only thing I buy if I can. That is for the small tanks that is a good starter set the $279.00 set.
 
Barren Realms 007 said:
golddie said:
I would like your valuable opinions people
http://www.princessauto.com/vmchk/view-all-products-in-shop?Search_x=41&Search_y=6&keyword=torch
---------
heavy duty victor style welding & cutting kit
Kit will cut up to 1-1/2" and weld up to 1/4"
Price $279.99
-------------
medium duty harris style welding & cutting kit
Kit will cut up to 1" and weld up to 1/4"
Price $229.99
------------
medium duty victor style welding & cutting kit
Kit will cut up to 1/2" and weld up to 1/4"
Price $229.99

Which one should I buy
Thanks
Click to expand...

I don't know about a Harris, Victor is the only thing I buy if I can. That is for the small tanks that is a good starter set the $279.00 set.
Click to expand...

The Harris is a superior cutting/welding outfit compared to the Victor.

However I would base my purchase on the availability of consumable, tips and repair o-rings - ask your local welding supply company what they sell and service.

Then you'll know which outfit to buy.

I've had my Harris Propane/Natural Gas cutting torch 40 years and cut many thousands of tons of scrap with it. Every scrap dealer I know uses Harris.
 
I was wondering if I could use acetylene
one of these I was talking about for propane

http://www.princessauto.com/vmchk/view-all-products-in-shop?Search_x=0&Search_y=0&keyword=torch
 
golddie said:
I was wondering if I could use acetylene
one of these I was talking about for propane

http://www.princessauto.com/vmchk/view-all-products-in-shop?Search_x=0&Search_y=0&keyword=torch
Click to expand...

I guess you are talking about the 500,000 BTU propane tourch that is at the top and to the left side of the page? What do you want to do with it? I have seen them used in lots of different applications. Better have a big tank to run it 100-500 gal to keep tank from freezing up. Only your imagination and safety will limit you in it's uses.
 
Hi Barren
My witting didnt come out very good
What I would like to know is can I use the handles for propane
 
Ok let me see if I understand this right. I think you are wanting to use the Oxy/Acet tourch but insted of usieng aceteline you want to run propane thru it. Is this correct?
 
golddie said:
Hi Barren
My witting didnt come out very good
What I would like to know is can I use the handles for propane
Click to expand...

No, an acetylene torch is for that fuel type only, propane torches can also use natural gas. You really need to find a welding and gas supply house, the counterman usually know their stuff and will be more than willing to set you on the right track.

Buying the right torch is like marring the right woman, she's going to be with you a lifetime. So make sure you get the right one first time round.

My Harris for instance is a proprietary cutting torch designed for propane and natural gas consumption. It's all in how the mixing valve located in the torch head as to what gas you use for fuel.

A recommendation I would make for a persons first time purchase of any torch, purchase the optional blow back prevention valves.

Never use your torch as a blow gun, oil and oxygen do not mix, you could cause an explosion just by blowing some oily dust of your shop coveralls.

A fellow I met once was fired from his job over misusing a torch, a gopher when inside a large pipe, he filled the pipe with a oxygen/acetylene mix then lit the torch. Blew every window in the shop out.

If you ever get a change to attend a safety seminar on the proper handling of torch and tanks, grab the opportunity to attend.
 
Hi Barren & Gustavus
Thanks for your help
Gustavus understood me
I was wondering if I would be able to use the acetlyene torch set for propane gas.
Now I know
I have never use acetlyene but I have used a propane torch many times.
Is there something I should be carefull about when using the acetlynen torch.
On you tube a guy said you should open the tanks quarter or half way
Is that correct
 
golddie said:
Hi Barren & Gustavus
Thanks for your help
Gustavus understood me
I was wondering if I would be able to use the acetlyene torch set for propane gas.
Now I know
I have never use acetlyene but I have used a propane torch many times.
Is there something I should be carefull about when using the acetlynen torch.
On you tube a guy said you should open the tanks quarter or half way
Is that correct
Click to expand...

Guy on youtube was wrong, you open the valve all the way. Otherwise you could have an acetylene leak around the stem packing, the valves are designed to be either fully open or closed all the way.

Here's the full story with more pictures on the Van, apprentice plumbers.
http://www.broadbandreports.com/forum/r23509161-Leaking-Acetylene-bottle-in-van
 
""Guy on youtube was wrong, you open the valve all the way. Otherwise you could have an acetylene leak around the stem packing, the valves are designed to be either fully open or closed all the way. ""

Gustavus, I hate to be the one to tell you this, but you NEVER open the valve on acetylene more than ¼ off the seat. However, oxygen requires that you ALWAYS open the valve fully.

The reasons are two fold;

This has to do with the valve types to begin with. Oxygen valves are top seating, and will leak by if not opened all the way to the stop.

Acetylene valves are bottom seating only, and opening them all the way will not prevent leaks at all, in any way shape or form.

However, the main reason for not opening up the acetylene more than ¼ turn has to do with the stability of the gas. Acetylene is very unstable at pressures greater than 15psi. That pressure is easily exceeded with the valve open no more than ¼ turn off the seat.

Should the regulator fail, and the pressure escaping exceed 15psi then the acetylene will self ignite. This in it’s self is bad enough, and quite exciting. However, having to use the wrench and turn a valve off in the middle of the excitement is nearly impossible.

If the wrench is left on the valve stem while in use, and the valve is only open ¼ turn, then it is a much simpler task to shut the valve with a simple quick movement.

But wait, there is more. If the valve is open more than ¼ turn, back flow prevention is not used, and there is a regulator failure, the chances of getting a back flash into the acetylene bottle while attempting to shut down a wide open valve is MUCH greater than it is with a valve that is only ¼ open.
 
AKDan said:
""Guy on youtube was wrong, you open the valve all the way. Otherwise you could have an acetylene leak around the stem packing, the valves are designed to be either fully open or closed all the way. ""

Gustavus, I hate to be the one to tell you this, but you NEVER open the valve on acetylene more than ¼ off the seat. However, oxygen requires that you ALWAYS open the valve fully.

The reasons are two fold;

This has to do with the valve types to begin with. Oxygen valves are top seating, and will leak by if not opened all the way to the stop.

Acetylene valves are bottom seating only, and opening them all the way will not prevent leaks at all, in any way shape or form.

However, the main reason for not opening up the acetylene more than ¼ turn has to do with the stability of the gas. Acetylene is very unstable at pressures greater than 15psi. That pressure is easily exceeded with the valve open no more than ¼ turn off the seat.

Should the regulator fail, and the pressure escaping exceed 15psi then the acetylene will self ignite. This in it’s self is bad enough, and quite exciting. However, having to use the wrench and turn a valve off in the middle of the excitement is nearly impossible.

If the wrench is left on the valve stem while in use, and the valve is only open ¼ turn, then it is a much simpler task to shut the valve with a simple quick movement.

But wait, there is more. If the valve is open more than ¼ turn, back flow prevention is not used, and there is a regulator failure, the chances of getting a back flash into the acetylene bottle while attempting to shut down a wide open valve is MUCH greater than it is with a valve that is only ¼ open.
Click to expand...

Good thing you spoke up with a correction to my posted information on the acetylene, makes sense. For economy I used propane exclusively for cutting all my scrap, 20 lb bottle will last 6 large oxygen.
 
PreciousMexpert said:
I know that I can melt gold with acetylene
Platinum I cant
How about silver
Click to expand...
Silver melts at a lower temperature than does gold, so, yes, you can melt silver. The problem may be with the volume involved, however. When you get to the point of melting more than a few ounces, a furnace and crucible are a much better choice.

As far as platinum is concerned, you most certainly can melt it with acetylene, although that does require the addition of oxygen. The flame temperature of oxy/acet is in excess of 6,000°F.

Acetylene is generally discouraged when melting platinum in order to eliminate the chance of forming carbides. A hydrogen torch, or an induction furnace are the best choices.

Harold
 
Since you are learning or you are a new welder, so you don't need a 300A welding machine. Start with 50A as well. And, no need to spend thousands for buying a welding machine. You will be able to buy one within 200 USD on Amazon as well.
 
ttss26 said:
Since you are learning or you are a new welder, so you don't need a 300A welding machine. Start with 50A as well. And, no need to spend thousands for buying a welding machine. You will be able to buy one within 200 USD on Amazon as well.
Click to expand...

You are offering advice to people that were looking for it 7 years ago. That is usually OK, but doing it 4 minutes after joining makes me suspect that you will be adding some "welder spam" to your post at some point in the future. This isn't a welding forum, so if that is your plan, it is a waste of time. If I am wrong and you are here to learn about refining precious metals, then carry on, and welcome to the forum.
 

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