maynman1751
Well-known member
Bad move! Now you know better! Lesson learned! :wink:
A little ap in my hcl/bleachl
- Thread starter steyr223
- Start date
Help Support Gold Refining Forum:
steyr223
Well-known member
Lesson. Learned 8)
What's the best way to transfer your powders
To the dish I thought of a filter but don't want
To contaminate my melt
Do they make filters that would burn in the melt
without contamination
What's the best way to transfer your powders
To the dish I thought of a filter but don't want
To contaminate my melt
Do they make filters that would burn in the melt
without contamination
If the vessel was clean you precipitated and dried it in it should slide out the beaker and into the dish with no problem. If it has sit in the beaker for any period of time it may have some moisture it collected from the air that makes it cling somewhat. Heat the beaker up to drive this off and the gold should slide out like water.
http://goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=11284&p=110288&hilit=+drying+gold#p110288
That's correct. Washing and drying take place without removing the gold, reducing the chance of loss or contamination.
As for drying, it will be perfectly obvious to you when the gold is dry, and even more obvious why you are admonished to incinerate substances when switching between acids, and you don't wish to dissolve values.
As the water evaporates, the color of the precipitated gold changes, getting lighter. Before that happens, you should be swirling the gold regularly, to prevent sticking to the beaker. This will make sense once you've been there, done that.
Once dry, continue to heat the gold. You're not finished, yet. As the temperature rises, you'll notice vapors, or light smoke, comes from the gold. There are substances that stick with the gold doggedly. What they are I have no idea, but it will be quite obvious that there is a presence of acid, assuming you (lightly) sniff the fumes. Heat until you no longer see the vapors, then allow the beaker to cool. Do not remove and place on a cold surface, for that will cause thermal fracturing of the beaker.
I heated my beakers on a gas hotplate. I had a pad of asbestos between the beaker(s) and the flame, to limit uneven heating. The pads of which I speak used to be readily available from chemical supply houses. That is no longer the case, due to asbestos no longer being available. They likely have a replacement material now that performs the same function.
Harold
You shouldn’t need a watch glass or anything when the gold is dried correctly. The way I do mine is I filter it into the beaker I plan to precipitate it in. It is very important that this beaker be spotless clean as well as no scratches. Dirt and scratches allow your gold to adhere to the surface of the beaker making it difficult to get your gold to release and move around. When you do your final water wash you should decant down to just enough that you can get the gold to move to a corner of the beaker. Once you get your gold in a corner slowly rotate the beaker so the last bit of water drains off the gold. The gold is heavy and should cling to one side of the beaker allowing the water to drain. You can use a eye dropper, turkey bester, or what have you to remove the last traces of water. At this point your gold should be just lightly wet. Turn your heat on a low setting and allow the beaker to sit until I see steam start to come off the gold. At this point I pick the beaker up for a minute and let it cool down while it evaporates moisture. I place it back on the heat source and start the process over until the gold changes color and the liquid water is gone. When the gold starts to change color I bump the side of the beaker and the gold releases. You can then swirl the loose gold around the beaker to collect the other gold. Once the gold is what you think is dry you can then heat it up to drive off the last bit or residual moisture without fear of steam explosions. Steam explosions happen when you go to fast.
Ralph
That's correct. Washing and drying take place without removing the gold, reducing the chance of loss or contamination.
As for drying, it will be perfectly obvious to you when the gold is dry, and even more obvious why you are admonished to incinerate substances when switching between acids, and you don't wish to dissolve values.
As the water evaporates, the color of the precipitated gold changes, getting lighter. Before that happens, you should be swirling the gold regularly, to prevent sticking to the beaker. This will make sense once you've been there, done that.
Once dry, continue to heat the gold. You're not finished, yet. As the temperature rises, you'll notice vapors, or light smoke, comes from the gold. There are substances that stick with the gold doggedly. What they are I have no idea, but it will be quite obvious that there is a presence of acid, assuming you (lightly) sniff the fumes. Heat until you no longer see the vapors, then allow the beaker to cool. Do not remove and place on a cold surface, for that will cause thermal fracturing of the beaker.
I heated my beakers on a gas hotplate. I had a pad of asbestos between the beaker(s) and the flame, to limit uneven heating. The pads of which I speak used to be readily available from chemical supply houses. That is no longer the case, due to asbestos no longer being available. They likely have a replacement material now that performs the same function.
Harold
You shouldn’t need a watch glass or anything when the gold is dried correctly. The way I do mine is I filter it into the beaker I plan to precipitate it in. It is very important that this beaker be spotless clean as well as no scratches. Dirt and scratches allow your gold to adhere to the surface of the beaker making it difficult to get your gold to release and move around. When you do your final water wash you should decant down to just enough that you can get the gold to move to a corner of the beaker. Once you get your gold in a corner slowly rotate the beaker so the last bit of water drains off the gold. The gold is heavy and should cling to one side of the beaker allowing the water to drain. You can use a eye dropper, turkey bester, or what have you to remove the last traces of water. At this point your gold should be just lightly wet. Turn your heat on a low setting and allow the beaker to sit until I see steam start to come off the gold. At this point I pick the beaker up for a minute and let it cool down while it evaporates moisture. I place it back on the heat source and start the process over until the gold changes color and the liquid water is gone. When the gold starts to change color I bump the side of the beaker and the gold releases. You can then swirl the loose gold around the beaker to collect the other gold. Once the gold is what you think is dry you can then heat it up to drive off the last bit or residual moisture without fear of steam explosions. Steam explosions happen when you go to fast.
Ralph
steyr223
Well-known member
Thanks guys
Most of this I did and had put an earlier post in my
proper procedure book.
The spotless beaker and filtering into the beaker you
will precipitate your gold In and keep it there untilled
ready to melt have all become habit 8)
The actual drying in the same beaker is new. This
Post will do good in my book
thanks
I have considered that these good work habits will
overflow into my everyday life which could only be a
good thing. :lol:
Steyr223 rob
Most of this I did and had put an earlier post in my
proper procedure book.
The spotless beaker and filtering into the beaker you
will precipitate your gold In and keep it there untilled
ready to melt have all become habit 8)
The actual drying in the same beaker is new. This
Post will do good in my book
thanks
I have considered that these good work habits will
overflow into my everyday life which could only be a
good thing. :lol:
Steyr223 rob
steyr223
Well-known member
Palladium wrote :
When you do your final water wash you should decant down to just enough that you can get the gold to move to a corner of the beaker. Once you get your gold in a corner slowly rotate the beaker so the last bit of water drains off the gold
Which corner Ralph?? :lol:
Just kidding
I just started a big one (the 5 gallen bucket is the strainer). Had it all perfectly sealed with gasses going out the window. Gloves,eye protection gas mask.
the holding container had 3 gallons of hcl and 1 1/2 gallons of h202, I noticed a bubbling at the bottom. My container had a crack on the very bottom, new from the store. Now I will use a catch pan for everyrhing. . More. lessons learned.
steyr223 Rob
When you do your final water wash you should decant down to just enough that you can get the gold to move to a corner of the beaker. Once you get your gold in a corner slowly rotate the beaker so the last bit of water drains off the gold
Which corner Ralph?? :lol:
Just kidding
I just started a big one (the 5 gallen bucket is the strainer). Had it all perfectly sealed with gasses going out the window. Gloves,eye protection gas mask.
the holding container had 3 gallons of hcl and 1 1/2 gallons of h202, I noticed a bubbling at the bottom. My container had a crack on the very bottom, new from the store. Now I will use a catch pan for everyrhing. . More. lessons learned.
steyr223 Rob
