a lot of this stuff!!

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goldenchild said:
spaceships said:
Scratching the boards with a screwdriver will tell you a lot faster than soaking them.

True but what if there is gold in some areas and not others? Also, if the plating is very thin you might take that off revealing only the copper underneath. Either way the O.P. has to decide how to proceed.


I agree he does, however there are only a few types of card here, and they are clear cards, and it's not hard to sample the contacts with a screwdriver if you can see colour differences.
 
2013-11-01 15.01.32.jpgi'll proceed with the straws method, i've this 34x40cm plastic box for a uniformed batch of pcb blanks
 
Hi !
You only need alittle H2O2 to get the reaction going. it will begin oxidizing the copper so that it can form copper chloride. The copper chloride in the solution does the leaching. once the reaction is going you supply oxygen by putting an aquaium air pump line that bubbles air into the solution and there is no need for additional H2O2.
If you have high percentage of H2O2, it will cause some of the gold to disolve. As you continue to reuse the solution it will become saturated with copper and any gold will cement out as a black powder in the bottom of the bucket.
artart47
 
artart47 said:
Hi !
You only need alittle H2O2 to get the reaction going. it will begin oxidizing the copper so that it can form copper chloride. The copper chloride in the solution does the leaching. once the reaction is going you supply oxygen by putting an aquaium air pump line that bubbles air into the solution and there is no need for additional H2O2.
If you have high percentage of H2O2, it will cause some of the gold to disolve. As you continue to reuse the solution it will become saturated with copper and any gold will cement out as a black powder in the bottom of the bucket.
artart47
Ok. So i'll use 3000ml of hcl and 750ml of peroxide at 3,6%
 
Hi...
You can use the 3000Ml and just a splash of Peroxide...but it will take longer to get the reaction going. The drawback from using more is some gold will dissolve and eventually come out of solution as black/brown powder.

Peroxide is the oxidiser so adding any will dissolve anything, almost.
I have a small 1gal. bucket. I save alittle, maybe 1ml, of AP and add it to more HCL when I have stuff to process. That way I don't need Peroxide. Then again, time is my friend so it sits for a week or more.

B.S.
 
Pantherlikher said:
Hi...
You can use the 3000Ml and just A SPLASH of Peroxide...but it will take longer to get the reaction going. The drawback from using more is some gold will dissolve and eventually come out of solution as black/brown powder.

B.S.
...a splash? how much in 3000Ml ?
 
I guess the technical term would be...based on how impatient you become...
Start with 1ml and let rest for a week. Aggitaing when aggitated.
If impatient, add as many ml as you feel neccessary to get the job done in a minute.

Somewhere in between there is good. You only need enough oxidiser to get the copper to work. It becomes a continueous process once kick started.

Just remember, the more you add, the more gold will also dissolve and eventually be dropped.

There is a ton of posts on specific amounts of each but I've found you only need a tiny amount, 1ml or less to get it going. Add air and let nature take it's course.

Other then adding way too much...50/50... you can't add too little peroxide. Just a longer process time.

B.S.
 
thanks, your help is very appreciated, one LAST thing, hvae u ever seen this video (this is the reason of my question about ratio in AP)...he uses 1:1, just bad knowledge of the argument?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rM87TEZXCfg
 
Johele,

read more on this forum ,watch less youtube :!:,or just the youtube vids from our senior members
or lazersteve's website ( http://goldrecovery.us/forum_search.asp ) and others.

The answers are also already given here in your post,

no need for that amount of peroxide :!:
for foils you don't need aqua regia, you can use hcl/bleach, so no nitric needed,
if you want to do it in AR, the use of urea is not advised here either :!:

Pat

edit: to add website
 
Believe it or not i've found the solution, for me is easiest and cleaner to use nitric acid solution in 50/50 with distilled water, i've ran some test, very fast and clean.
 
joheleh said:
Believe it or not i've found the solution, for me is easiest and cleaner to use nitric acid solution in 50/50 with distilled water, i've ran some test, very fast and clean.


I hope you get your nitric cheap. Chemical cost could Eat your profit on those.
 
here i'am with a little update, i've collected all the gold leaves with nitric solution (10Kg of pcb's with 4Lt Nitric acid/distilled water 1:1) and i've putted them in AR...now i'll drop the gold with SMB and wash properly the powder as seen in gold'n'scrap site ( water, ammonia and Clhoridric)
2013-11-16 19.44.52.jpg2013-11-13 17.29.50.jpg
 
my precipitation....as u see stannous chloride test gave me orange color...i'll wash the powder with boiling HCl, water baths, and ammonia
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4CG_oLN2T0E
2013-11-18 21.06.26.jpg
 
Just one thing about your video. One of the functions of the ice is to ppt any silver chloride that may be in solution. So after adding the ice and stirring you should filter your solution once more to remove any silver chloride. You should also let your gold settle more before testing. Overall looks good though.
 
goldenchild said:
You should also let your gold settle more before testing.
I disagree. If gold chloride solutions have been properly evaporated, precipitation is virtually instantaneous. You can see that clearly if you use ferrous sulfate, already dissolved in water. It's a little different when you use SO2 gas, as you must introduce the gas continually, until all the gold is down. Therefore, you must test regularly, while precipitating.

Generally, the only reason not all of the gold comes down is a lack of enough precipitant, and time won't change that. Testing should come on the heels of having introduced the precipitant, so you'll know if the solution needs more attention. I also suggest that the gold that comes down should be stirred, to liberate any trapped gold chloride that may have been dragged down. That, of course, applies only to a heavy concentration of gold. Very dilute solutions are highly unlikely to suffer that fate.

Harold
 
$7 a liter for nitric sounds pretty expensive to me! I pay $7 a gallon and still would not run these boards in a 50/50 nitric bath. AP is definitely the way to go, it's called patients which is a virtue.

Tyler
 

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