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acetlytne welding set

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PreciousMexpert said:
http://img29.imageshack.us/i/torch0.jpg/
I bought an acetylene torch and I also bought a safety valve
In my propane welding set the safety valve is placed where I have marked A

I tried the same thing with my acetylene set and it didnt work
It works only when I attach it to where it says B
that is right below the hand piece
Is this normal
am I doing something wrong

If I attach it to where it says A the gas does not flow
its the same for oxygen and acetylene

The back flash valves go on the torch, make sure to have the arrow showing flow installed in the right direction.

If you put the back flash valves on the gauge end of the hose you stand a good chance of loosing the hose should a flash occur.

Back flash valve is a spring loaded ball, when I flash happens the force of the gas retreating closes the ball against a seat sealing off the gas flow preventing a flash back to the regulators.

If you look at the HHO torch stihl88 built you will note that the flash arrestor is located at the torch actually built in, albeit a home made arrestor using non ferrous metal wool.

Not sure of the direction the gas should flow in your arrestor, use some compressed air or even try blowing through it with your mouth it shouldn't take more than 1/2 lb to release the check ball.

Regards
G
 
I only use oxygen-acetylene for cutting.

For welding steel, you can't beat a MIG welder. You can get a portable that runs off two car batteries. It's inexpensive, you can take it anywhere, and it gets good and hot. It will weld up to 1/4" steel, and thicker if the parts are small.

The torch gets the material very hot all over, that is, the heat travels too far before the weld area gets hot enough. If you are welding something "in place," then whatever it's connected to will get hot also, and if there's grease or plastic anywhere down the line, you've got trouble.

I always used flux core wire, too. You need to remove the air hood at the tip, but that also makes it easier to see what you are doing. The core wire will eliminate 90 to 95 percent of the air around the puddle, and so you see the actual metal puddle while welding instead of having it under the slag that you get from stick welding, and little or no chipping is required.

If it's outside and really cold, you can pre-heat it with a torch, but weld it with a MIG.

The battery powered is DC only, of course, but you can get different penetration by reversing the polarity, and that can come in handy on thinner material (there is no current adjustment). I used this commercially for field repairs, and it's way better than a gas powered arc welder. I ran mine using both the truck battery and one extra battery, with a control unit that would switch the configuration around. I could even weld with the engine running, charging both batteries while I welded. I highly recommend ii.
 
eeTHr said:
I never had any problems with it. Like I said, 90 to 95 percent clean. Plus it's easier and simpler to use.

What do you weld?

Using flux core mig wire with out a gas shield you stand a chance of inclusions in your welds which would show up on x-ray or machining a part back to specifications after building the worn section up.

There is more to welding than scabbing two pieces of metal together. I have welded cast iron successfully, cast and plate aluminium, stainless steel , t-120 to mild steel.

When I had my HF Canox Tig played around welding copper to aluminium just for fun, nothing practical. I still have a HF tig inverter unit made by Century for specialised work. I may use it to fab my HHO dry cell to bridge the positive and negative plates rather than rely on bolts and washers to carry the current.

By cutting the buss tabs extra long, using the tig I won't even need filler rod and save a fortune on SS nuts, washers and bolts.

By arranging the holes in such a way that the hydrogen passes from cell to cell in each plate make it large enough to pass the bus bar through that same hole before welding, I see this as a money saving possibility in building HHO cells.

I also think that the SS plates could be positioned closer together using a membrane to pass gas and keep the plates from shorting out, if you have ever dismantled a lead acid battery you would see that the plates are close together and the battery has no problem venting gas during charging.

Just rambling, you guys give me inspiration.

Some places to look for SS sheet, some microwaves, dishwashers, sinks and cookware, don't forget to bring your magnet.

Regards
G
 
I have this acetylene welding set
I like it and I can see that there are other machines which are better like tig and mig
I am sure I will be able to adapt to using those should the need arise
The biggest problem is finding customers
How do you get them locally without spending a fortune on advertising
 
PreciousMexpert said:
I have this acetylene welding set
I like it and I can see that there are other machines which are better like tig and mig
I am sure I will be able to adapt to using those should the need arise
The biggest problem is finding customers
How do you get them locally without spending a fortune on advertising

Hang or shingle where the heavy equipment operators drink beer.or where they purchase their heavy equipment, it wont take long before you have more work than you can handle.

I had an Lincoln 200 amp portable on a 1 ton truck, specialised in welding grouser bars onto worn cat tracks. In the north country they want ice picks welded on.

You can read up on procedure here. http://www.titussteel.com/grouserbars_weldprocedure.htm

regards
Gill
 
rusty---

Commercial welding of mild steel, mostly square tubing and angle, in the field, was part of my job for 15 years. I started using portable arc welders, or stick welding. When I got my own contractor's license, I went to the portable DC MIG, and it was five times better. And nothing ever broke after welding.

I see that you have much more critical requirements, whereas my intention was to help others like myself, who want to get a good job done, better, and inexpensively.

But it's always nice to hear lofty meandering, regardless of whether they pertain to the actual subject matter.

What do you thing of stick welding, by the way? Is it better than flux core wire?

8)
 
eeTHr said:
rusty---

Commercial welding of mild steel, mostly square tubing and angle, in the field, was part of my job for 15 years. I started using portable arc welders, or stick welding. When I got my own contractor's license, I went to the portable DC MIG, and it was five times better. And nothing ever broke after welding.

I see that you have much more critical requirements, whereas my intention was to help others like myself, who want to get a good job done, better, and inexpensively.

But it's always nice to hear lofty meandering, regardless of whether they pertain to the actual subject matter.

What do you thing of stick welding, by the way? Is it better than flux core wire?

8)


Each has its place, if were talking structural welding and fabrication of mild steel, wire of course, wire is good for all position welding no time wasted changing rods, no nibs to sweep up, no flux to chip away, torch handle stays cool, disadvantage working outdoors your shield gas will blow away, yearly bottle rental. Due to limitations of whip length welding machine must be in close proximity to work.

Welding steel with rust scale will result in poor welds. When your contact tip becomes worn welding becomes erratic. Mig is more finicky than stick to those unaccustomed to welding.

Stick is more versatile, hard facing the teeth of an excavator bucket, repairing a cracked cast iron engine block. rods available giving higher tensile strength welds, works in any environment even under water, disadvantage rods must be kept dry and warm, nibs and flux to sweep up at the end of the day, electrode holder gets to hot to hang onto even with the best welding gloves so I have a spare whip with an electrode holder ready to change over to. A fresh electrode holder is good for a couple of hours working with high amps.

Welding machine can be located several hundred feet from work, given the length of welding cable attached to the machine there are no limitations.

Most often I use 7018 low hydrogen rods, the flux curls off by itself.

For the shop an old refrigerator with a light bulb is enough to keep your welding rods dry and warm, the slightest bit of moisture will have bad effects on 7018 low hydrogen welding rods performance. Never bring the whole box of rods with you when 3 will do.

FYI: I use my mig for most of my welding that is required for my projects that I build. For my hydrogen cell project may blow the dust off and use it on that project.

You asked how to gain a customer base with out expensive advertising, not having any background on the type of welding you were planning of promote gave you an example that worked for me. In replying one tends to try and reach the whole audience.

Regards
Gill
 
eeTHr said:
rusty said:
I hate flux core mig welding wire, way to much clean up required.
rusty said:
nibs and flux to sweep up at the end of the day

I think I may be confused, but I'm not sure.

Can you expound on these seemingly contradictory statements?

:|


In my first reply, I hate flux core mig welding wire, way to much clean up required. I used a 50 lb roll of flux core wire with out gas shielding and found that the spatter from welding had to be cleaned up afterwards to make the weld look half presentable.

The machine was new and I had never used flux core wire before, tried different amperage settings and wire feeds, switched the polarity on the electrode side, always ended with spatter, little gobs of weld stuck to the metal near the weld zone.

I'm on my second 50 lb roll of wire with this mig machine, this time opted for 0.035 using gas the difference is night and day, the welds are uniform and clean with out spatter to clean up after.

Your confusion on this statement nibs and flux to sweep up at the end of the day leads me to believe that you have little or no experience as a welder. Here I'm giving some disadvantages of using stick rod.

What do you do with the nibs stick em in your pocket.

I will not be following up on this thread.

Regards
Gill
 
rusty---

I didn't confuse the two, I was refering to your comparrison of the two, of course. Because you contradicted yourself when you mentioned that stick welding also requires a lot of cleanup. But I'm really glad you tried to straighten that out.

But it was pretty lame of you to resort to calling me a liar.

Bye.

:shock:
 
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