Advice on Mil-Spec pins please

[sgtmajorbuzz]

First, I am new to the forums, and am still an amateur at scrapping/recovering gold.
I have about 3-5 pounds of Mil-spec pins. Would you guys mind giving me some recommendations? I have used HC Acid and Aqua Regia in the past to reclaim gold from memory fingers, but I have not used the reverse electroplating method. I have seen a few variations of materials used in the process, and I am having difficulty finding exact specifications.
To clarify, this is what I believe I need.
Large shallow Pyrex dish
Muriatic Acid
Lead sheet for Cathode
Copper sheet for Anode
Battery charger capable of trickle charge

So, a few questions that I haven't had answered yet.
Can I use Home Depot bought 31% HCA?
Does the copper need to be a mesh, or will a solid sheet be sufficient?
Where does the gold deposit when the process is complete?

And lastly, would it be more efficient to just dip the pins in Aqua Regia briefly to remove the gold?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Smack]

You have a whole bunch of learning ahead of you IF you really want to take the time to learn. I would refrain from asking any more questions until you at the least, know what acids are what and how to spell them and or use the correct acronym. Use the Search feature and read Hoke's book and the forum. All your questions have been answered multiple times and multiple ways, don't be offended, just be determined. Try the guided tour.

 

[Shark]

I don't mean to be a killjoy, but smack is right. You have made at least one critical mistake in your acid choice and I can't even explain the problem that alone could create for you in a deplating cell. It isn't horribly hard to do, but you do need to fully understand the hazards involved with the process. Finding information on this sight for what your asking is rather easy to come by in quantity, and will provide you a better understanding than I could give you. The correct acid is some powerful stuff and if it heats up it will eat right through your skin very fast as well as gloves if you use the wrong ones. If done right a cell is a wonderful tool, if mishandled the harm can easily be permanent, possibly fatal. Check out the safety section, look for lazersteves posts and his web sight as well for good info. There are other people have made great posts on the subject besides Steve so look for those as well. In the mean time you will be amazed at just how much information is out there. If I had that many mil-spec pins a cell is exactly what I would use though, especially over the AR used as you described. If you have never used a cell, you might consider starting with a mini or micro cell. Same tool, less volume of hazardous acid at a time. Think small scale until you become knowledgeable of the process you want to learn. There is nothing shameful in working safely and knowledgeably when you put forth a real effort to learn. Do some reading come back here and check what you have learned against what your asking now, then you will know just how much information there is on the forums.

Good luck with your efforts.

 

[goldsilverpro]

Don't use muriatic. It will dissolve everything and generate a lot of chlorine gas. The cell uses concentrated sulfuric acid. Study the forum.

 

[etack]

Also using the deplating cell for that few pins is not worth the time to much get trapped in the acid. Dissolve the base metals and collect the gold.

Eric

 

[Claudie]

Looking at the questions you asked, it's a good thing you found the forum before you tried the cell. There is a ton of information here for you on the subject. Any concentrated acid can be very dangerous, so please do yourself a favor and read up on safety and precautions before you start. Sometimes you don't get a second chance. :|

 

[solar_plasma]

A more educational approach would be to use those pins for learning different methods, which all have pro's and con's. Of course after you studied what has been advised. Beside the sulfuric cell, AP (better copper II chloride leach) is a useful tool and a better starting point.

 

[sgtmajorbuzz]

Thank you for the responses, especially the ones that recommended other options, as opposed to the" figure it out yourself" response. I have tried dissolving the base metals, however, most of the pins are completely plated, so the acid is not making it through. I have been reading the Hoke manual. It is outdated, but still quite informative. Just to clarify, I am starting this as a new hobby, not as a Get-Rich-Quick scheme. So far, I have reclaimed about 5 grams of gold, mostly from finger boards. I guess I have Gold Fever, as now, I have been collecting everything gold plated that I come across. I am in a unique position where I acquire my items for recovery free. I also have about 2 lbs of Sterling in various forms that I plan on melting into bars.
Anyway, I will search the forums when I can, but I have already noticed some peoples opinions carry more weight than others, so if I find conflicting data, or want a personal opinion, please don't get upset if I ask.

 

[Geo]

would it be more efficient to just dip the pins in Aqua Regia briefly to remove the gold?

There's a simple reason this will not work. The reactivity series of metals. Gold is very near the top of the list when it comes to oxidation resistance. According to this simple rule, the base metal will dissolve before the gold does. Any metal that is more reactive will dissolve first before gold. This is why people fail when trying to dissolve electronic scrap to obtain gold. They place the material in AR expecting the top layer of metal (gold) to dissolve first and then work it's way through the base metal when actually, the base metal starts dissolving from the inside out with the gold dissolving last.

 

[Anonymous]

would it be more efficient to just dip the pins in Aqua Regia briefly to remove the gold?

This is why people fail when trying to dissolve electronic scrap to obtain gold. They place the material in AR expecting the top layer of metal (gold) to dissolve first and then work it's way through the base metal when actually, the base metal starts dissolving from the inside out with the gold dissolving last.

You mean SOME people who don't understand the process right? 8)

 

[Geo]

spaceships, I have to agree with you on that one. :lol:

 

[solar_plasma]

........ as opposed to the" figure it out yourself" response.................

There is no such a post, not even one! All advices are valid. You have to study now and yes, then you will have questions, since there are many roads that lead to Rome and people have different styles, that are fitting best to their setup or cases. Then it is hard to decide which way to go. If you are lucky, the seniors will start a discussion then, which gives enormous insight into their amazing experience and knowledge. Most of your questions will disappear, while reading. Trust me, there is not even one question, you can ask at this point, that hasn't been answered a lot of times.

But no words I can say, will make someone change his mind. You are one of those characters who get this quickly by themselves or you are one of those who don't want to understand, because they are too convinced they are smart and all of us others just don't want to get, they are smart. I hope you are one of the first ones and I hope you will soon love this forum as much as I do, so we can learn from each other after you have learned the basics.

And your 5g gold, do not tell, you know something - I came to this forum myself after I recovered some grams of gold thinking I already knew something. It was just nothing compared to what I learned within the first few months of daily reading.

The biggest mistake that can happen, is if you feel offended. Don't do it, there is just no offense here at all and the most harsh sounding words are always meant as a helping hand, - just from everybody that will answer to your questions.

What you think about Hoke, I would gladly discuss with you privately once you have understood a major part of what she actually teaches. Everything outdated, which is not much, has been discussed and has been added to the latest forum version of the book by one of the very helpful members.

 

[goldsilverpro]

sgtmajorbuzz,

Define the term "mil-spec pins".

 

[sgtmajorbuzz]

I will show you pics of them. These specifically came from outdated Traffic Control Cabinets, but I have some from other sources as well. There are male and female, but the ones I am having problems with are completely plated. We called them cannon plugs in the Army, I do not know the actual terminology for them, if there is such thing. I understand there is not much on them, but, I can get around 15-20 pounds if they turn out to be worth the effort.(edit) Being former military, I know the term "Mil-Spec" is over used, and often misleading. I noticed people on eBay were calling them Mil-Spec, so I figured it was a term that was commonly used to describe these.

 

[sgtmajorbuzz]

They are dark around the tip from where I used a torch to soften the rubber for easier extraction.
Here is a pic of the plug itself. Please don't think that I was saying that because I have reclaimed 5 grams, that I am suddenly an expert. I meant to say that I enjoyed the process, and found it quite exciting, even addictive. My first attempt at anything new I try I usually count on being a disaster, but it actually turned out well.

 

[Shark]

Any pins I do that are plated from end to end I cut them in half if I plan to run them in AP. It is as simple as exposing the core of base metals. I am not as experienced as most of the others who have replied here, so I tend to try and keep things as simple as possible. Knowing what the core exists of could be a factor that determines your best options for processing.

 

[Smack]

Thank you for the responses, especially the ones that recommended other options, as opposed to the" figure it out yourself" response. .

If your referring to my response to you in the "figure it out yourself" remark, your way off base there. I said everything is here for you to learn, don't get confused or offended.

 

[Geo]

Those plugs are mil-spec. I have dismantled quite a bit of military hardware and those plugs are very common. Telltales are the ability to lock the plug in the socket and green paint. Olive green does not a military item make, but it sure says a lot about it. That's a special kind of paint that's non-reflective. It's had lots of wear but it still shows through.

 

[sgtmajorbuzz]

The pins are very slightly magnetic. I am interested in testing a small batch in a small cell. I will read up on the process before I attempt anything. My goal is to use provisions that are easily obtainable if possible. I read in the forums that the gold doesn't really deposit anywhere, it stays suspended in the bath. So I need to read up on ways to extract it. Would a 1 lb batch of these pins be excessive for a test?

 

[sgtmajorbuzz]

Thank you for the responses, especially the ones that recommended other options, as opposed to the" figure it out yourself" response. .

If your referring to my response to you in the "figure it out yourself" remark, your way off base there. I said everything is here for you to learn, don't get confused or offended.

I meant no disrespect, but I don't think I was way off base either. The other members gave me key words I could search. I am still learning the jargon, so the words I searched pulled up countless posts, most of which had no relation to what I was looking for. Kinda like finding a needle in a stack of needles. Forgive me for being blunt, I am recently separated from the Active duty as an E6/SSG, and that's just kinda how we talk. My wife has reprimanded me a few times already for not sugarcoating things. I will try to be more civil in the future.