Cabinet for Fume Hood

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A drain can be your best friend.....or your worst enemy. When you have a spill, and you will if you do this long enough, you want to think containment.

If you have a drain but the thing is plumbed into a drain system, it's an invitation to a loss. (Both financially and environmentally!) If it sits over a bucket or a drum, still a potential for a loss. You know, when you need the bucket for something else just when you have a spill.

I like a drain but I also like to know anything spilled is contained.

One option if you want to have the drain is to have it flush in the bottom and have a 2" stand pipe which you can remove if you wash down the hood but use it when operating. It prevents any spills from flowing down the drain, (into the bucket) until they are deeper than the volume of the base of your hood and 2" deep. A 4 foot by 3 foot by 2" deep catch is just shy of 15 gallons. If you have a spill that big you should consider taking up knitting!

I would also offset the drain so it is not right where you are working, especially if you go with a stub up which will be sticking up 2".
 
4metals said:
A 4 foot by 3 foot by 2" deep catch is just shy of 15 gallons. If you have a spill that big you should consider taking up knitting!

:lol: :lol: :lol: its a good thing I didn't have coffee in my mouth when I read that - my computer would have just got a shower :lol:

Kurt
 
When I ran a nickel plating operation the local fire department/hazmat inspector made us take the floor drains out and put in containment sumps. We also had to have enough neutralizing absorbent sock type of spill booms on hand to absorb or contain a spill equal to the volume any one of the plating baths.
 
Usually containment has to be 110% of the volume of the largest tank. The neutralizing absorbent socks can wreck havoc on any attempts to recover precious metals from the liquid.

But in a sprinklered building, if the tips go off, there is no containment big enough. The fix causes more problems than the problem.
 
My thought on the drain was this..

Understand first I am new...on about page 70 of Hoke's book and reading here quite a bit, but new. I have found the fluid is adding up fast. What I mean by fluid is the part where I have dissolved the silver and placed the copper in for cementing. Right now I have those jars outside during that process. Even though there is no fumes I can detect, and even after two days when there seems to be no more reactivity I am wary of those jars because I just don't know if there is any trace coming off of there I can't see.

When I decant I wear a respirator for that reason...it scares me a bit because of my lack of knowledge. So I want to do all that in the hood I guess as I would feel better.

My thought with the drain was to mount it flush...with a valve that turns it on and off underneath. So after all the rinsing and and silver recovery...when its time to go into my stock pot it could all be done in there...i.e. I can just pour off the waste via the drain inside to the fitted container. That way from start to finish....it is all done in the hood. The drain... would remain closed the rest of the time in case of a spill. That is why I was thinking of the drain. Forgive me for my laymen terms...but I did want to share. Any advice or comments I certainly appreciate...I am just trying to learn as much as I can.

I sure thank you all for your input and look forward to the day when I make a post that helps out another member. For now... I am definitely riding shot gun.

Much appreciated,
Craig
 
A shut off on the drain works but keep it in a place where it is always easy to see it, this way you can glance and make sure it is closed when you are working.

I have found if something is not easy to verify, it doesn't get verified. Until there's an OH S*** moment! and then it's too late.
 
Hello members,

Guys... I am just a few days from starting my hood, but I want to do this right. A few things I want to be SURE of.

Even after much reading I am still a bit confused on what I need to be moving CFM wise. I guess I might be trying to have my cake and eat it too, So I want to make sure I am right.

Is CFM based on the opening to the fume hood, or the cubic feet inside the hood? My fan pulls 325 CFM. My plans are for a hood 48" wide, 22" deep, 36" tall with a crest like a dog house (see rough sketch). That gives me a lot of room inside. However, and understand, was only going to make my opening 18" X 18" to accommodate the fan.

Based on my opening will that be enough to accommodate the square footage inside the hood? I plan to incorporate the sliding door as suggested by 4 metals but have read some posts that have me doubting I might not have enough fan. Is it true that Nitric fumes are heavier than air and will fall to bottom of hood, possibly coming out?

Every post I have read doesn't really say, and videos I have seen does not show this is true, but it could be because they have enough fan to get it out.

I am. and have been reading like crazy about fume hoods. I am fixing to start and do not want to have to do this twice so in advance I apologize for asking questions that might already be here. If I do....its not because I haven't looked.

ANY advice is appreciated,
Craig
 
Craig, the air movement needed is based on the opening size. The general rule of thumb is 100 cfm for each square foot of opening, so with an opening of 1.5 ft by 1.5 ft (18" x 18") you have 2.25 ft2 of opening. 325 cfm should serve you well.

You may find that opening a little tight once you start trying to move things to the back corners of the cabinet.

Dave
 
Okay Dave and thanks for clarifying. I do realize I have to sacrifice a bit on the opening compared to the room inside but I am happy and think it will work ok for my needs. I think I got everything covered. As I piece my ventilation (which will be awhile), I might post a few more questions I am still not sure of. Still reading up to the minute. Its going to be a good one!!

Ok guys, I am on it. Film at 11. I am so excited!!!

Craig
 

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