can some one please tell me what am i doing wrong.

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maynman1751 said:
Maynmans comments may appear harsh but the message is correct, you need to apply yourself to learning the processes or forget about getting involved in the science of refining.

Spawn, I didn't mean it to be harsh. It's just that unless you intend on giving this hobby your all, you will not succeed. You have been given some expert advice and I see that you are willing to learn. That's what we want to see and hear. Keep up your reading and studying and you'll be just fine. We all started the same way with no knowledge of refining. If you stumble, someone here will be there to help you as long as you show your willingness to learn and understand and are able to express yourself in an intelligent manner. Good Luck and welcome to the world of refining!

hello maynman!
thank you i really am and i've already learn few of my mistakes. and the best thing that has happened was finding you guys as well as you guys had pointed out where i can find some answers and to learn! yeah i only had 3 hours sleep and went back to reading the book. even while i was in school, i hadn't study this hard ha ha ha...
anyway, i am so greatful to all you guys and please keep in touch!
 
maynman1751 said:
Maynmans comments may appear harsh but the message is correct, you need to apply yourself to learning the processes or forget about getting involved in the science of refining.

Spawn, I didn't mean it to be harsh. It's just that unless you intend on giving this hobby your all, you will not succeed. You have been given some expert advice and I see that you are willing to learn. That's what we want to see and hear. Keep up your reading and studying and you'll be just fine. We all started the same way with no knowledge of refining. If you stumble, someone here will be there to help you as long as you show your willingness to learn and understand and are able to express yourself in an intelligent manner. Good Luck and welcome to the world of refining!

hello maynman1751!
well today was another day to give it try and study. i had ran out of gold pins and cpus, but manage to find 2g of gold fingers and pins. i've read through the book and i thought give a test with what i have to see if i am doing it right. so far, i did what i read in the book but little more.
1. one part of water to 4 parts of nitrate acid soaked in for 30 minutes since gold pins weren't much it didn't take long. but instead of 2 times, i did it 3 times to make sure.
2. washed with hot water 2 times to clean the gold.
3. i thought making aqua regia was 1:3 ratio but in the book it said 1:4 ratio so, i thought i would try what i read. after 5 to 10 minutes, i got golen green solution unlike before i been getting dark green solution.
here is the picture of it.
now the part i have to add little sulphuric acid right? i am little confued on that part but i will going to try. i know whats for but i will find the way. also in the book, he said use the green copper to precipitated gold, but isn't the same using smb? anyway, so far i am on right track and feeling much better.
thanks to you guys!!!!
 

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You have to make sure your solution is free of nitric before dropping the gold. There are a couple ways to do that. Read Hokes and she will tell you how. After that filter and use your SMB.
Yes, a couple drops of sulfuric will eliminate any lead.
 
lazersteve said:
I found early on when making videos that there will always be a few who for whatever reason don't understand the processes the way you intended. After getting consumer feedback on several of my videos via email questions, I soon realized that you have to spell everything out in vivid detail (filtering, colors, amounts, etc.) or a portion of your audience will try to skip steps and/or jam two steps into one. This is why in my videos I pay so much attention to detailing every little process. It's almost like some of the audience thinks the reaction only takes as long as what they see on the video.

I have to admit it's a fine line between being too granular and being too vague. I've had numerous people ask me about tiny details in my videos that I never even paid attention to when making the video. When making a DVD it's even harder as you have a finite disc size in which to fit everything you want to convey. One such example is in my Acid Peroxide video when I place a piece of sheet steel into the spent AP solution to cement out the copper. The shot only lasted a few seconds and was mentioned in passing, but I've gotten hundreds of emails on the fleeting scene.

I feel your guys’ pain. On my youtube videos I had to put disclaimers that the videos are for entertainment purposes only and are not step by step guides. At first the disclaimers were simply in the video's description but I had to resort to putting a message in the video itself to read the description. Even still I get comments and PMs everyday asking for step by step instructions and how to fix their messes! They just see the video and try it which is crazy to me since most of my videos are "hey look at what I can do" videos. I guess we're making this stuff look too easy.
 
Hello everyone -i am fairly new to gold refining forum - i have been attempting to recover gold from my cons for about six months now with continued falure. I started off with the usual ar nitric acid and muratic acid(proper ratio) went with the urea method (failed) then precipitate with smb. Couldnt get anything to happen without adding extreme amounts of sodium carbonate (horrible looking mud) dried and melted - and its glass. After many failed attempts went to hokes method of evaporation (sometimes boiling for 12 hours) tried precipitation with smb and nothing would happen. This is after sulfric acid dilution and filtering - had the white precipitant before filtering - nothing without sodium carbonate -dried, melted and the black glass no shining gold. All the while studying hokes book as well as amens book. After visiting steves site i decieded to try the clorox muratic method - i couldnt get anything to precipitate with smb or stumpout. However i got mud by using lye however after hcl boil,water boil, and amonia boil i dried it and melted just turns to black glass. Can anyo!ne help other than to say read hokes again .i have pictures but cant upload - the solution is a clear bright yellow after diluting and the mud is brown looks like a sponge upon precipitating however all processes lead to black glass.
 
JHardtyme said:
Hello everyone -i am fairly new to gold refining forum - i have been attempting to recover gold from my cons for about six months now with continued falure. I started off with the usual ar nitric acid and muratic acid(proper ratio) went with the urea method (failed) then precipitate with smb. Couldnt get anything to happen without adding extreme amounts of sodium carbonate (horrible looking mud) dried and melted - and its glass. After many failed attempts went to hokes method of evaporation (sometimes boiling for 12 hours) tried precipitation with smb and nothing would happen. This is after sulfric acid dilution and filtering - had the white precipitant before filtering - nothing without sodium carbonate -dried, melted and the black glass no shining gold. All the while studying hokes book as well as amens book. After visiting steves site i decieded to try the clorox muratic method - i couldnt get anything to precipitate with smb or stumpout. However i got mud by using lye however after hcl boil,water boil, and amonia boil i dried it and melted just turns to black glass. Can anyo!ne help other than to say read hokes again .i have pictures but cant upload - the solution is a clear bright yellow after diluting and the mud is brown looks like a sponge upon precipitating however all processes lead to black glass.

I did not see stannous mentioned?

Jim
 
Ill be more specific - sometimes depending on batch it was black,brown and one occasion didnt change at all solution waz really yellow and a drop of stannous did nothing stayed yellow then after the test qtip dried like two days it was purple. Got stannous from ebay.
 
For the guy whos post said you cant fix stupid -this forum - i thought was meant to help beginig refiners and recoverers. Yes i fell for shors crap but i have studied endlessly reading for hours daily researching daily - i have ran over 30 batches wasted alot of gold - i am set on working this the right way - i live next to a stream with unreal amounts of gold (the abundance is in the 50 to 100 mesh range however there are larger pieces some of which wont classify through 1/4 inch testing is to at least 18k with test kit (thats small to large pieces) so yup its gold. Upon filtering cons from solution some pieces are left and its silver so the gold is in the solution. Help is what i need if i need to explain more i can as well as pictures. Im using my phone so maybe thats y i cant upload pics - ill work on it. Everyone i have shown my cons to are blown away by how much micro gold is there -are if it wasnt that much maybe it wouldnt b worth it however if i could figure out whats going wrong it could b a life changing experience - i have read alot on this forum and respect those who been there done that thanx
 
JHardtyme said:
For the guy whos post said you cant fix stupid -this forum - i thought was meant to help beginig refiners and recoverers.

That is his signature line, it was not directed at you. It is at the bottom of all his posts.
Jim
 
Many things can turn solution yellow. If it was me I would have assay done in first place. In that way you will know what you will be dealing with and if there is a gold present. Without assay and knowledge what is in a mix it is very hard to even suggest a proper process.
 
Maybe this would be easier. Is there anyone who has tried this process (knowing they have gold) that upon melting it turns to black glass?
 
I cant be of much help I am in Ireland but somebody will help I am sure about it. My point was that you will know how much you can expect and what else is in your material. In that way you will be able to choose right approach to recover values. From what I know you will have to roast concentrates for some time and then chose appropriate chemicals to deal with what is in there.
 
In my previous i said upon melting it should be upon melting mud dried of course. And the dried mud when melted turns to black glass
 
Even though you cant help i appriciate your time. I totally understand needing to know whats in material - lots of stuff can interfere for sure. Thanks again.
 
Anybody with mining/processing skills can help better and more than me, but what I recall is that raw material/concentrates are being roasted prior any chemical treatment. It is to get rid of some elements and to convert/change another ones.
 

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