Concentrated Sulfuric Stripping Cell - Anode basket material

[Topher_osAUrus]

The cradles that support the rods would be insulted, of course, to isolate the rod from the tank.
.

Dont insult the cradles! Without them, it all falls!
Kidding

That is a pretty genius idea.

 

[snoman701]

Lead pipe is usually filthy. You are better off with lead sheeting removed from radiology room walls. But it has also been said that steel is fine as well.


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[g_axelsson]

Some old cables have a lead shield, that's what I'm using. Easy to strip, flatten and bend into any shape you need.

Göran

 

[snoman701]

I've been digging through my crap trying to find an appropriate barrel. Or I'll just make my own out of virgin hdpe sheet. Either way, the garage has to be cleaned first so I can make an appropriate tank. I've got a couple ounces of gold that I need to get off some industrial plated parts. While I don't want to sell it, I may anyway so that I can buy a plasma cutter.


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[snoman701]

You really don't need a continuously rotating barrel. All you need is to give the barrel a turn every minute or so to change the positions of the parts. When the current starts decreasing, give the barrel a turn. The current won't penetrate deep into a pile of stagnant parts - the surface of the pile will draw most of the current.

Here's what I've thought of over the years, in its simplest form.

I have a plastic cylindrical shaped container, with a big screw on lid, about 4.5" dia X 8" long. I envision a mild steel square stock shaft, long enough to go through the bottom and the lid and sit on insulated cradles on the sides of the tank. I would grind the rod round where it sits in the cradles. I would figure a way to reinforce the plastic where the square rod goes through so the holes don't enlarge. On one end of the rod I would form a crank or I would just clamp a small vise grip on the end of the rod to turn the barrel. Quite a few holes, smaller than the parts, would be drilled in the barrel to allow the gold powder to escape.

The parts are loaded and unloaded by unscrewing the lid. Enough parts are loaded to bring the parts a little above the shaft so the parts are always making contact with the shaft. The solution level will be a little below the shaft. The (+) lead from the PS will be connected to the rod and the (-) lead to the cathode(s). To simplify things, I would fabricate the tank out of about 1/8" mild steel and use the tank as the cathode - great current distribution. The cradles that support the rods would be insulated, of course, to isolate the rod from the tank.

If you must have continuous rotation, a rotisserie motor would probably work. You could use a steel spring to make continuous electrical contact to the rod. You might figure out a way to baffle the barrel to get better parts rotation.

So one of the tricks with tig welding is to just wrap the shaft with copper wire. If it makes contact in enough places, you don't get arcing that locks it together.

I like the idea, actually, really like it...but I think that instead of having to fill it to the point of the shaft, it might be easier to use a rotisserie thingie...as displayed in my attachment.

The barrel would then go over the meat spike, meaning you could run a considerably smaller amount of product. Three, or four "spikes".

I want my machine shop...NOW.

 

[goldsilverpro]

You could use a few links of a fairly heavy chain as a dangler. It could be made to rotate freely on the shaft. I first thought of using a threaded rod as a shaft and using double nuts (as lock nuts) to keep the chain in L/R position on the shaft but allow it to slip around on the shaft. Maybe 2 or 3 chain danglers along the length of the shaft.

I know I should do some drawings of all this stuff as it is difficult to explain in words. Maybe later.

Those rotisserie prongs could serve a double purpose - to secure the barrel in place and to provide contacts in the barrel.

 

[upcyclist]

What about just thicker chain, thinner rod (chain link ID > rod OD)? You could slip a link of the chain through the rod between the barrel bottom and lid. Either long enough to reach from the shaft to the edge of the barrel, or twice as long and insert the shaft through the middle link.

--Eric

 

[salman1122]

can we tell which heat spreader of processor is gold plated without removing it?

 

[jimdoc]

can we tell which heat spreader of processor is gold plated without removing it?

Another double post, and even in a totally wrong section for the question.
Please find some patience, or use the search box to find your answers.

 

[goldsilverpro]

can we tell which heat spreader of processor is gold plated without removing it?

Any more double posts might result in your being banned.

 

[philddreamer]

Chris wrote:

Here's what I've thought of over the years, in its simplest form.

I have a plastic cylindrical shaped container, with a big screw on lid, about 4.5" dia X 8" long. I envision a mild steel square stock shaft, long enough to go through the bottom and the lid and sit on insulated cradles on the sides of the tank. I would grind the rod round where it sits in the cradles. I would figure a way to reinforce the plastic where the square rod goes through so the holes don't enlarge. On one end of the rod I would form a crank or I would just clamp a small vise grip on the end of the rod to turn the barrel. Quite a few holes, smaller than the parts, would be drilled in the barrel to allow the gold powder to escape.

The parts are loaded and unloaded by unscrewing the lid. Enough parts are loaded to bring the parts a little above the shaft so the parts are always making contact with the shaft. The solution level will be a little below the shaft. The (+) lead from the PS will be connected to the rod and the (-) lead to the cathode(s). To simplify things, I would fabricate the tank out of about 1/8" mild steel and use the tank as the cathode - great current distribution. The cradles that support the rods would be insulated, of course, to isolate the rod from the tank.

If you must have continuous rotation, a rotisserie motor would probably work. You could use a steel spring to make continuous electrical contact to the rod. You might figure out a way to baffle the barrel to get better parts rotation.

I like very much the idea!
I'll start to work on a prototype, soon... I have a 6" x 10" plastic container, with a 4-3/4" diameter lid.
I would try using a 1/2" mild steel all thread rod, so I can use nuts and washers to secure the rod to the bottom of container, and to the lid.
Instead of chain, though, I'll try tack welding some light gauge 1'w x 3-3/4" L "paddles", (every 90 degrees) to help stir and make contact with the material as the container rotates...

hummmm, maybe use 6" or 8" PVC green pipe...

Just thinking... :mrgreen:
Phil

 

[salman1122]

ok gold silver pro bann me . this forum isnt helping me any way .im gonna find my my own answers by doing some more practicals .

 

[salman1122]

and thanks for answering every post "dont double post it against the law, " "read hokes book" ive read it thrice . there is no answer of my questions .

 

[aga]

and thanks for answering every post "dont double post it against the law, " "read hokes book" ive read it thrice . there is no answer of my questions .

Double-posting is just pointless and annoying.

It's a shame you don't like the forum, but it can't please everyone - it is for people who actually do PM recovery/refining.

I got a button http://www.goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=61&t=25369

Take a look, do the same, but bigger and better !

 

[goldsilverpro]

ok gold silver pro bann me . this forum isnt helping me any way .im gonna find my my own answers by doing some more practicals .

Ideally, that's how this forum is supposed to work. You search and find your own answers. If, after spending an hour or two, you don't find the answer, ask away. There is probably not one question you can think of that can't be answered by searching this forum. No one makes a penny off this forum. Asking people to take their time to answer simple questions that have answered 100 times is flat out rude.

 

[snoman701]

Chris wrote:

Here's what I've thought of over the years, in its simplest form.

I have a plastic cylindrical shaped container, with a big screw on lid, about 4.5" dia X 8" long. I envision a mild steel square stock shaft, long enough to go through the bottom and the lid and sit on insulated cradles on the sides of the tank. I would grind the rod round where it sits in the cradles. I would figure a way to reinforce the plastic where the square rod goes through so the holes don't enlarge. On one end of the rod I would form a crank or I would just clamp a small vise grip on the end of the rod to turn the barrel. Quite a few holes, smaller than the parts, would be drilled in the barrel to allow the gold powder to escape.

The parts are loaded and unloaded by unscrewing the lid. Enough parts are loaded to bring the parts a little above the shaft so the parts are always making contact with the shaft. The solution level will be a little below the shaft. The (+) lead from the PS will be connected to the rod and the (-) lead to the cathode(s). To simplify things, I would fabricate the tank out of about 1/8" mild steel and use the tank as the cathode - great current distribution. The cradles that support the rods would be insulated, of course, to isolate the rod from the tank.

If you must have continuous rotation, a rotisserie motor would probably work. You could use a steel spring to make continuous electrical contact to the rod. You might figure out a way to baffle the barrel to get better parts rotation.

I like very much the idea!
I'll start to work on a prototype, soon... I have a 6" x 10" plastic container, with a 4-3/4" diameter lid.
I would try using a 1/2" mild steel all thread rod, so I can use nuts and washers to secure the rod to the bottom of container, and to the lid.
Instead of chain, though, I'll try tack welding some light gauge 1'w x 3-3/4" L "paddles", (every 90 degrees) to help stir and make contact with the material as the container rotates...

hummmm, maybe use 6" or 8" PVC green pipe...

Just thinking... :mrgreen:
Phil

Phil,

US Plastics, $10

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=35106&catid=661

Shaft...use whatever you want. But, using a large fender washer, weld it on the shaft. On the fender washer, drill a hole or weld a 1/4" bolt to the washer so that it sticks out like a stud on Frankensteins neck.

Now, drill the hole through the bottom of your barrel (and the top), then drill another hole so that the stud on the washer will be able to poke through. The hole should be just the same size as the bolt head so that it goes in, turns a little bit, and locks on to the shaft.

If you use the square bottle, it will be self mixing as you turn it. Then you can just have a couple pieces of chain like GSP suggested.

The main advantage of this is that you can lift the bottle out, leaving the shaft behind...which seems like it would be easier handling after stripping when it's dripping with concentrated acid.

Another method would be to use a holly shaft inside the bottle...which I think I like the idea of now that I've wrote it. That way it's just slide on slide off.

 

[patnor1011]

Not to hijack thread but can anyone point me to which power supply would be ideal for sulfuric cell? Ebay or other sites, I just cant decide what to get. I am curious to know what do you use gents.
Is something like this good to use?
http://www.ebay.ie/itm/DC-Bench-Power-Supply-Switch-Mode-Adjustable-0-30V-0-5A-CSI-3005SM-/222258217487?hash=item33bf9f420f:g:3y0AAOSwAuZX48ei

 

[Topher_osAUrus]

I dont know about the other guys, but this is what I use Pat.



I only wish I would have been able to find a 10amp one, other than that, I have no complaints at all.. Its worked great on my silver cell, and on my sulfuric cell.

I was in a rush to get mine, and this was the only one I could find locally. Next one I buy will be a 10 or 15A model.

 

[upcyclist]

I'm starting to wonder if a smaller (for my volume, at least) version of this bucket design, like a 2 gallon bucket, would be great for converting AgCl using iron & sulfuric, too! Minus the power supply and anode/cathode, of course.

 

[goldgee35]

Are Mesh and a million holes "must haves" ???> Heres what I have already built on suggestion that I should use a Sulfuric Strippin Cell for a few fully coated pins ........