Eco-goldex CYANIDE Leach

[tripmag]

I have one important question!
Did anyone compare refining the same material to Eco-Goldex and dissolving it in acid?
Or has anyone tested the material after leaching in eco-goldex?

Why is every material in videos and photos after leaching with goldex silver metallic color even if the base material is copper or brass ???
Is it a chemical exchange for another metal?

I refine only very heavily gold-plated pins and ceramic CPUs.
Sometimes I also have 10-30Kg of gold-plated pins for which I do not have the capacity and I sell it to a large company for about $ 90 per kilogram.
I guess there is still a lot of room for profit.

I used the procedure I found on the forum and youtube.
With 500ml of solution I leached these pins in two batches of 750g.
It was suspiciously fast in about 20 minutes first and the second in about 30 minutes were all pins of silver color.

By precipitating by the zinc method, I got 1.95 g of gold, which is not enough because the redemption value of the material in the company is $ 135.

Used pins with silver color are not suitable for direct sale as copper or brass scrap so I decided to rinse them with hot water with a little nitric acid.
And what happened?
Some gold foil appeared on the surface and some pins have a gold color again, so all the gold was obviously not removed ...

Where did I make a mistake?
Leaching time? or does this process (metal exchange?) only work to a certain thickness?

 

[theitalianhenchman]

Hi
I have no experience with the product, but for what I have learned in this forum, you should never put acid on a solution containing cyanide, I'm pretty sure this goes even for the material that have been treated with cyanide. You are kind of lucky to be still alive.
Someone else with more experience in refining will probably surely be able to underrstand what happened with your material

 

[patnor1011]

I have one important question!
Did anyone compare refining the same material to Eco-Goldex and dissolving it in acid?
Or has anyone tested the material after leaching in eco-goldex?

Why is every material in videos and photos after leaching with goldex silver metallic color even if the base material is copper or brass ???
Is it a chemical exchange for another metal?

I refine only very heavily gold-plated pins and ceramic CPUs.
Sometimes I also have 10-30Kg of gold-plated pins for which I do not have the capacity and I sell it to a large company for about $ 90 per kilogram.
I guess there is still a lot of room for profit.

I used the procedure I found on the forum and youtube.
With 500ml of solution I leached these pins in two batches of 750g.
It was suspiciously fast in about 20 minutes first and the second in about 30 minutes were all pins of silver color.

By precipitating by the zinc method, I got 1.95 g of gold, which is not enough because the redemption value of the material in the company is $ 135.

Used pins with silver color are not suitable for direct sale as copper or brass scrap so I decided to rinse them with hot water with a little nitric acid.
And what happened?
Some gold foil appeared on the surface and some pins have a gold color again, so all the gold was obviously not removed ...

Where did I make a mistake?
Leaching time? or does this process (metal exchange?) only work to a certain thickness?

I am by no means an expert in cyanide leaching but from what I observed it require certain finesse to get it right. Your batch could have contained various thickness of plating and therefore when some pins were stripped soultion was still dissolving underlying metals on some material. Then perhaps as it got saturated some of those metals precipitated and covered undissolved gold on other pins?

I think that this solution is not the best way to go due to secrecy and mystery purposedly put around it. If you want to try cyanide leaching then you can do it with straight ferrocyanide which is easy to obtain. In this instance you will know what exactly you work with so it will be easier to gain practice and experience.

Pins may be brass or copper but gold is very seldom plated directly. Nickel is being used mostly as a barrier between gold and the res of pin body.

 

[Banderauk]

Potassium Ferrocyanide is a strong reducing agent and should be kept away from oxidizers. It can react violently.

I am testing that leach as we speak. While it stripped some boards (blue boards which are from under touchpad on laptops) really fast - within few hours, other like the same but green boards are going very slow. I made test batch with different type of fingers and plated boards and the only stripped so far after about 48 hours are blue I mentioned and boards from back of LCD screens. The rest is showing different stages like some fingers missing on close cut ram fingers but it look like slow process. I am in no hurry but I would certainly like if I could figure out how to speed up process.
I do not want to experiment wildly with that as it does contain some cyanide but I was thinking what may happen if I introduce air bubbler or perhaps some hydrogen peroxide but your post made me wonder - is it something I can try or rather not?

hiy
add a bit of peroxide 3% or stronger and caustic soda to the mix it's sped up all proces, stripping gold in minutes from plated pins. i am using gold leaching agent witch i think same as eco material not mastered et but its video from Fransua Pele russian guy.

 

[Toggle]

If you have bought it are the instructions with it?

 

[Sundown Resources]

Gents for fast gold recover from using eco goldex E, use electrowinning. Its very fast. Your gold will not plate pure, but will have silver, copper and other metals. Then you can refine by cupelling with pure lead or AR. Cupels cost about the same as you would spend in AR per gram. Good luck.

 

[Sundown Resources]

Ag recovered 1.5 ozt per 570 grams Eco per 6.8 L
Used silver plate 7 lbs
Au recovered .8 grams per 55 grams Eco per 1L
Used gold plated jewelry and gold fill

5 volts low amps onto 316L ss electrowinning.

Way faster than AC. You still need to filter spent reagent with AC or resin. Small scale its not worth it.

I dont know how to use elution process to remove metals from AC. Any one know how to do elution?

 

[Sundown Resources]

Gold

 

[solarsmith]

Eco-goldex O series for ore. This Is updated info. there have been some changes that are to significant to let slide. I will put a * in front of lines that have changed.
i got 10 kilos last week and am now trying to learn all the particulars about how to use it before I actually use it on my ore. The instructions come as a pdf in an e mail when the order is shipped. When I read the section on (gold recovery from leaching solution ) I saw a big problem. It reads .'' gold recovery from pregnant solution can be achieved through activated carbon (resin) adsorption column, zinc powder /strips methods.'' Thats it! All other instructions pertain to the leaching . No wonder every one is having recovery problems. I have made a step by step list of instructions that use a zink strip recovery process.
I have had it reviewed by ecogoldex and will include it with this post. I have not used it yet so I can not speak to how well it will work for me. It still has a few things I would like to add to it but it is a important notes and instructions/guide and has been reviewed buy eco goldex. Hope this gives more answers than questions.

*1----make a aqueous solution from water and lime or na(OH)2 to make the ph 9-12 . target 11.5 not over 12. let set for 3 hrs.

*2----for duration of leaching keep ph 9-12 (eco gold ex web site instructs that there is no need to monitor ph once set.) I will still be checking.

*3 ---- for common gold ore 0.5% to 1% per litre of water or 5 to 10 g per litre . (45 to 55 g per litre for electronics) this can go as high as 80g per litre for electronics.

4 ---- for sulfide and complex ores add 2000 to 4000 grams per ton of water.

*5 ---- removed for clarity

*6 --- temp of leach 15 degree centigrade or higher (60f) they now give temps of 40 to 50 c or 104 to 122f

7 --- add leach powder to maintain concentration for duration of leach see pdf instructions for info on this

*8 ---- maintain temp and ph for duration of leach. ( eco no longer thinks ph needs to be monitored once set).

*9 ---- agitate ore for duration of leach. (not a requirement but this is the shortest way to run a batch. )

10--- leach 1 to 48 hrs.

11--- filter solution and circulate through zinc turnings

*12--- no ph adjust keep it 9 to 12

13--- Cement gold and pgms with zinc turnings (if zinc not black after 12 hrs drop is complete)

14 --- dissolve zinc strips in diluted Hcl. 15%

15--- filter residue (blacks) wash 2x with water

15--- clean with diluted Hno3 heat (simmer) to make sponge. Can add filter to the acid for this clean up.trim off extra filter material first.

16 --- pulp or ore density can be as high as 50% solids by weight but 40% is normal. to maximize ore density a( marsh funnel) test may be in order.

*17--- unknown carry capacity eco reports as much as 10g of gold and mixed pgms per litre.

note --- after leaching a vacuum process of the leach to remove air can be done but not required (mostly done by larger operators)

note------- e chem only for ore process
"Chemical A: Citric Acid, CAS No: 77-92-9
Chemical B: Ammonia Fluoride, CAS No: 12125-01-8
Chemical C: Magnesium Sulfate, CAS No: 7487-88-9"

note----- e chem only not for ore pocess
The addition of ether NH3 - or - chemicals A/B/C is done AFTER leaching the gold & BEFORE cementing the gold !

note------

If any one is using eco goldex tell us how it has or has not worked for you.

9

 

[r.bawing@GRF]

Hi everyone,

As far as I know best way to use carbon to adsorb gold from pregnant solutions is by circulating the pregnant solution or continuous mixing,for incineration it really needs oxygen, I've seen guys do it in big pan with blowers(pics), also I have came a cross a post in this forum talking about burning activated carbon http://www.goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=24511
[/attachme

Hi everyone,

As far as I know best way to use carbon to adsorb gold from pregnant solutions is by circulating the pregnant solution or continuous mixing,for incineration it really needs oxygen, I've seen guys do it in big pan with blowers(pics), also I have came a cross a post in this forum talking about burning activated carbon http://www.goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=24511
[/attachment]View attachment 33906

Hi everyone,
I am new to this forum, I find the posts here interesting. I can contribute a few video on the subject about "burning gold laden activated carbon to recover gold" I have collected this for future reference.

 

[J.Najam]

What is happening in this case is that while solution is stripping harder to dissolve plating stuff, it still attack already stripped material. That is why your solution got that dark, amber color. It does not mean there is a lot of gold in it, it mean you dissolved whole bunch of underlying metals in process.

I think I may have made this mistake yesterday. My agent is not eco goldex, but it is what seems almost exactly like it. In this case pH adjustment is necessary and so I did. My solution was dark amber colour as you have mentioned and I am under the impression that it may be alot of gold. I stripped some 150g of ram fingers in it.

Anyway brought my solution down to a ph of 4.5 using citric acid as instructed by the manufacturer. The colour turned tang orange with some unknown salts. In order to add zinc to it, I brought the solution to a nice boil which reversed the colour of the solution back to amber... I forgot to test with a pH paper and started zinc dust additions. Unfortunately it gave me no reaction like it had before when I was experimenting and found out that the reaction was always there. But this time around there was none. Now I have a solution with purple + gray sediment. What do you really suggest I do?

Many thanks in advance.

 

[Yggdrasil]

I think I may have made this mistake yesterday. My agent is not eco goldex, but it is what seems almost exactly like it. In this case pH adjustment is necessary and so I did. My solution was dark amber colour as you have mentioned and I am under the impression that it may be alot of gold. I stripped some 150g of ram fingers in it.

Anyway brought my solution down to a ph of 4.5 using citric acid as instructed by the manufacturer. The colour turned tang orange with some unknown salts. In order to add zinc to it, I brought the solution to a nice boil which reversed the colour of the solution back to amber... I forgot to test with a pH paper and started zinc dust additions. Unfortunately it gave me no reaction like it had before when I was experimenting and found out that the reaction was always there. But this time around there was none. Now I have a solution with purple + gray sediment. What do you really suggest I do?

Many thanks in advance.

Simple in the long run, stop buying this concoctions and use plain leaches.
Most of the tome they put in who knows what so you will depend on them to get your Gold back.
For this batch, unless we know what it is, next to impossible to know.

 

[Martijn]

Let's start with: which product from which supplier? 'seems almost exactly' may be something entirely different.
What does the manual say? What does the manufacturer advise in your case?
Purple may be colloidal gold, gray could be any salt really.
were the fingers completely clean of solder and components? only gold plate on clean PCB?

Can your next post be more like: "i'm planning on doing........ process on ...... components this way, that way. Is this a good plan? (for my situation)?

In stead of throwing a bunch of stuff in a mix, and asking for help when it goes wrong...

Ten days ago you said "Cyanide is a no go", now you're using eco-goldex? How much did you research in that time?

Although interesting, but Cyanide process is just a no-no. And yeah I was falling short of HCL and had some vinegar lying around, but anyhow thanks for the information. Shall fetch myself some HCL and get this done then.

Don't expect a lot of gold from 150 grams of fingers.

Again: ask first before making (life span shortening) mistakes. did you miss Orvi's post about be safe?

Slow down!!! study!!!

 

[Martijn]

I am actually thinking of the same, however , issues with the same :

3percent peroxide:

If I use HCL + 3 - 12 % peroxide + air bubbler, it could take days or weeks and I don't have any place around my house to place an unsealed container. Inside we can't I guess and outside I fear the kids and pets all around.

30 percent peroxide:

If I use Boiling HCL 33% + 30% peroxide to dissolve the gold in one go, I won't be sure of all the gold going into the solution as this reaction makes the solution really dark and messy. However, since this does seem like the only option, so I think I'll go with this.

scrolling back through your posts, i found this concerning statement in bold in one of your posts:

Where are you doing all this if I may ask? not in the house, I hope...

stop and study safety & chemistry basics please..

 

[kurtak]

I stripped some 150g of ram fingers in it.

You do realize that 150 grams of fingers is only going to give you back about a half a gram of gold

To put that in perspective - a half a gram of gold in the bottom of your beaker is just barely enough gold to see AND that is if it precipitates in large enough particles to settle well --- if they precipitate in SMALL particles they can take days to settle - if they settle at all

My agent is not eco goldex,

Ok - so you told us what it's not --- but how do you expect us to help you if you don't tell us what it is ???

Kurt

 

[J.Najam]

Simple in the long run, stop buying this concoctions and use plain leaches.

I guess this was my first and last and I will be using ferrocyanide as suggested by you earlier. Why I continued with this process? I'll just mention in later comments...

 

[J.Najam]

Dear sir,

Ill make everything clear by answering everything one by one.

Let's start with: which product from which supplier?

Purchased Jin Chan from Alibaba.

What does the manual say? What does the manufacturer advise in your case?

Unfortunately, there was no manual and like I mentioned earlier in other posts, The seller mentioned a little vaguely on how the process was supposed to be...
He was mostly stating the obvious after I had made the purchase and not exactly as per usage. So, there ain't no manufacturer support neither could I find anyone to guide me and I have been experimenting it all on my own since the past one year using the little info he'd provided. The results were more like a combination of luck. And it is now only that I got a chance to scroll around this forum and search for the same

Purple may be colloidal gold, gray could be any salt really.
were the fingers completely clean of solder and components? only gold plate on clean PCB?

I'll just add pictures of my process. I don't understand what do you mean by components? These were ram fingers only

Ten days ago you said "Cyanide is a no go", now you're using eco-goldex? How much did you research in that time?

Of course, it still is. The reasons why I proceeded with this process are multiple :

1, an older mixed solution was there and I just wanted to use and wrap it up
2, the fingers were too messed up to use the HCL or salt vinegar technique so this seemed the better option..

Where are you doing all this if I may ask? not in the house, I hope...

My front-yard, outside my house, making sure there is no human or animal movement at the time of my procedures; late at night mostly. My next day job sometimes suffers but this gold thing has me clung on to it like anything

 

[J.Najam]

To put that in perspective - a half a gram of gold in the bottom of your beaker is just barely enough gold to see AND that is if it precipitates in large enough particles to settle well --- if they precipitate in SMALL particles they can take days to settle - if they settle at all

Attached are pictures of my latest result of the sediment as can be seen... process on hold since last night

"i'm planning on doing........ process on ...... components this way, that way. Is this a good plan? (for my situation)?

I was about to decant this as it is, then place the beaker on a hotplate and process with minute additions of HCL

 

[J.Najam]

You do realize that 150 grams of fingers is only going to give you back about a half a gram of gold

Doesn't matter, I'd like to achieve even that as my first official harvest.. been trying ever since only manages 0.1g. Frustration galore

 

[Yggdrasil]

Attached are pictures of my latest result of the sediment as can be seen... process on hold since last night

I was about to decant this as it is, then place the beaker on a hotplate and process with minute additions of HCL

You do know that what you are doing now most likely is a Cyanide leach. And by adding acid to it will release of toxic Cyanide gas!!!!

Edit for spelling