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Fume hoods plans ?

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Noxx

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 24, 2007
Messages
3,365
Location
Quebec, Canada
Hello guys,
I'm moving into a new house in a few months. Hopefully, I will be able to refine gold more often. And I'm planning to build a fume hood. Anyone got plans for this ? Harold gave me goods ideas on his previous posts.
I plan to use a big computer fan as an air exhaust.
Oh, and the area where I will refine gold is 10'x12'
Thanks a lot.
 
Noxx,
You will have to set up the fan to create a draft or suction
to pull out the fumes, if you run the fumes through the fan it
will fall apart in no time.
I have some plans I found online when I find them, I will post them.
Jim
 
Here are some fume hood links that may help;

http://www.ehs.ufl.edu/lab/fumehood.htm#cert

http://www.psalab.com/catalog/PDF%20Catalogs/RESEARCH%20Hood%20Catalog%20120dpi.pdf

http://www.petedavis.net/MySite/DynPageView.aspx?pageid=45

I still have to check on my laptop for the one I was looking for.
 
Noxx,
Sorry, but I can't find the article with pictures on my
other computers. I will check to see if I printed it out.
I have a portable hard drive I saved a bunch of stuff
on when getting a virus out of my old P3 MS Millenium
machine, and now it isn't on there???? And I can't find
it online anymore.
Basically it showed the blower fan behind the opening
at the top, so it was creating a draft or flow over the
opening and would draw the fumes up and out without
coming in contact with the fan or motor. It made sense
to me, because even if the fans are free, you don't want
them failing in the middle of a job with nitric fumes.
Jim
 
jimdoc said:
Basically it showed the blower fan behind the opening
at the top, so it was creating a draft or flow over the
opening and would draw the fumes up and out without
coming in contact with the fan or motor. It made sense
to me, because even if the fans are free, you don't want
them failing in the middle of a job with nitric fumes.
Jim

Thanks, thats what I taught...
 
This might be useful, a lot of the fellows over there have built fume hoods.

http://sciencemadness.org/talk/viewthread.php?tid=208&page=1
 
Heya Knoxx , if no one answered your question of how to make the fumes go through the pvc pipe without going past the fan. Use a Y connection and put the fan on the end of the Y going off the main pipe. I'm including a crude picture to show what I mean.[/img]
 

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Heya Aflac, thanks. Life is great and you? I've been super busy this summer and fall. That's why I haven't posted much.

Believe me, you might not want to see me post much because my usual brief replies tend to be a full novel. lol

Hope everyone else is doing good too.

How did you like my drawing there? Picasso and Rembrandt have nothing to fear lmao
 
Without the yellow letters it looks like a cave drawing of a water buffalo. :p

Welcome back. Trust me some of my post read like novels to. :lol:
 
Hello All
Just my two cents here

But I would think a great blower for a hood would be the type used in many marine applications>
They can be easy to tap into any kind of tubing from a side Y tube
they come in 3 and 4 inch sizes and have great CFM

You can find them cheap at any boaters world and on ebay
some would say the down side is they run 12 volts?
but easy fix is to just hook the leads to your Cell Power supply and walla>>>> you have airflow

One thing I can say is they are very efficiant> I use them often to ram air down the intake in cars.

anyway> that will be the way I try to get the fumes out, when i find room to have a hood set up

Jim
 
Hello Noxx,

This is a temporary fume hood I made from a 70 gallon Rubbermaid container purchased at Wal-Mart for $13.

The blower is a little blue blower from Harbor Freight tools $39. on sale. I've mounted it with the motor side up. Just drilled and screwed through the inside of lid into the plastic blower housing. I've used duct tape to seal off most of the air flow from the top, leaving just a little air flow to help cool the motor.

The 4" black ribbed plastic water drain pipe comes in a 10' length at $4.
from home depot. I used a sleeve connecter ( about $2.) for connecting 2 pieces of the drain pipe together to attach the black plastic pipe to blower. Just squeezed it to roughly rectangular shape to fit opening in blower.predrilled holes and used machine screws to attach and silicon sealed.

I used a water closet (toilet) fitting to attach the drain pipe to plywood in window. A clothes dryer vent would work. I used silicon sealant and duct tape to seal everything.

I use the blower on low speed with more than enough suction to remove all the acid, sulphur dioxide, hydrogen, and oxygen etc. etc. while running 2, 13" x 9" casserole dish cells, using avg. of 40 alligator clips with up to 40 silver or gold plated items at a time.

I use 10ga solid single strand insulated wire which I strip the insulation from and solder 2" copper plated steel battery clamp type alligator clips to each end.

I use 2, 25 amp analog rectifiers, one for each cell.

I originally used a Y connector to keep the blower out of fume stream but the ribs in pipe or something caused backflow into container defeating purpose. I believe y connecter would work with 4" smooth wall pvc pipe. I have been using almost daily for 6 mths and if my motor ever burns out I'll upgrade to pvc.

This fume hood is not fire proof! You could possibly put a hotplate in a pyrex casserole sitting on fire bricks for hot work but I wouldn't recommend it.

This setup does a very good job of removing fumes created from cell use. This hood is sitting on a 4' x 2' white plastic table for reference as to size. Please refer to attached picture.

Wayne
 
That looks like a nice setup austex, but i'm concerned about the amount of weight on top of the container. It's starting to bend downwards a little or maybe it's the other additional equipment you have stored on top. :p
 
Smitty,

Thanks for your concern, its probably justified!

I only put the rectifer up there when I'm going to clean out the cells.

A water closet flange connector fits almost perfectly on the intake side of these little blue blowers allowing you to mount the motor away from the tuppaware with another flange connector on either side , back or top of the unit. Theres no reason to mount the motor on top. I like the 4" black drain pipe because its fairly flexable unlike 4" pvc.

I'd also suggest a hinged 1/8" clear plexiglass door to keep the family cat etc. out when not in use.

I've considered using a vertical or angled packed tower somewhat like used in a distillation tower except using a good sized limestone aggregate to still allow airflow and/or perhaps some scrubbers. Perhaps a inexpencive recirculating mist system like for irrigation of plants to help trap the fumes! I've tried blowing through wet polyester materials but it didn't work well. Perhaps a mist system on an a/c type filter would work?

Thanks for the interest!
Wayne
 
Noxx,

Several years ago we had an ice skating rink at the northcross mall here in Austin that was remodeling and threw away all of the about 4' x 8' sheets of about 1/4" thick white plastic that it was made from. I was happily removing them from the commercial dumpster before the security guard made us put what we had back and leave. I should of asked for permission!

I think this type material would make a great fume hood as its thicker and seems to come in larger sizes than most plexiglass I've seen.

Wayne
 

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