Gold inside chips (black, flatpacks - not CPU)

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Hi, Would someone kindly let me know what sort of transistors you are refering to? Maybe a Picture.
Thanks.
 
Give me minute I will take quick picture of what I have laying on table, not every one of them do have gold bonding wires but even if only half do, that will add up.
 

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Thanks Pat,
Guess what? I have been stripping boards and leaving these on as i thought they had nothing worth saving in them....Doh!
Oh well back to the satrt of the pile to remove them.
Cheers Pat.
 
Pat, How do you remove them? I have been trying to use a chisel but they just keep splitting in half and make a terrible mess. I dont really want to desolder them as i am the same as you and sit watching telly whilst doing it.
Thanks.
 
@intelgolf I use pneumatic hammer. it works really great. I can remove 9 out of 10 unbroken. Furthermore i can strip whole motherboard in no more then 3 minutes. I used to do it with chisel and hammer and have spent about 10 minutes in order to strip a motherboard of all parts. If you have a a lot of boards you should definitely buy one.

Ps: dont bother taking them off from low grade boards (like ones from tv-s and power supplies). After testing them i found that they only contain aluminum bonding wire and no gold.

hope it helps...
 
I can't seem to find any gold or even aluminum bonding wires. I have taken apart 20 or so and nothing. Are the wires in the top plastic part or the bottom Metal bit?
IMG_0944.JPG
Thanks for any help.
 
bonding wires are about 1/10 the diameter of a human hair. you need a good jewelers loupe to see them clearly. normally, they are in the plastic body connecting from the legs to the silicon chip.
 
intel...of course you cant see any bonding wires like that.
Follow this instructions.

Use blowtorch to incinerate those chips. Half a minute under direct flame would do the job. After that they should be white outside and easy to pulverize. Do that so that the powder is as fine as possible. You also need to remove bottom copper part. Now you should have really fine black dust. Put it on a sheet of paper and if you have really good eyesight you should be able to see gold wires. If not use magnifying glass.

Second step is to concentrate powder. In order to do that you should pan it. Be very careful. After that you should be left with a gold concentrate. Than use HNO3 to remove any possible base metals. In the next step use HNO3/HCl or Hcl/NaClO to dissolve gold. Precipitate it with Alkali metabisulfite or FeSO4.

Voila you have pure gold powder ready to be melted :lol:
 
patnor1011 said:
Give me minute I will take quick picture of what I have laying on table, not every one of them do have gold bonding wires but even if only half do, that will add up.

I bet the one on the left in the picture with the number 30127 has gold bonding wires.
 
I use heat gun to remove them. It is quick. Some things can be done while watching TV some cant but gold is gold so we must count a bit of sweat and blood as price of getting it. :lol:

Yes, Imran that is exactly how I do them. If you do handful at a time you will see bonding wires easier as they will accumulate in one spot.
 
Stowmaster said:
I read this top. I've been collecting these chips only. Sorry for the poor photo quality. Part of the chips I have already burned.
I took a closer look to this type of chip. I removed the top body from its base and found a gold plated circuit on the base. So I decided to treat those bases with AP, and yes, I got the gold foil off. The next step will be to treat the top body the same way to remove the remaining gold which kept there while removing them from their bases.
Well, my advice: Do not just burn them. Take off the top body and treat both, body and base, with AP. After this you can burn the top body for recovering the bond wires.

Roy
 
No need to put top piece to AP. If you split them carefully then there will be no plating there. Even if there will be same you will recover it after incineration.
But generally that do not bother me too much, plating there is so minuscule amount that if it will be lost along way I would not cry too much because of it. :mrgreen:
 
Panther killer. What's your problem? I m new to the forum and I came here to get some advice and or info on some topics. I don't need anyone to tell me how dangerous anything is I'm not stupid as you are implying! I've done enuff research to know that I I'm willing to do anything and everything I can to be sucsessfull in refining. Since I'm new at this I unfortunately don't have much information to share like tips and how to's. As soon as I can ill post pics of my material and how I prossess it. As time goes on ill probably have more posts that are more interesting. Sory to everyone else for this message as its not on the topic but Its not nice to be welcomed on a forum in such a harsh way. Don't judge me by whatever means it is that u do because you don't know me mr panther..ill stop moaning now thanks for listning .any comments on this message in pm please in order to keep the thread clean and on topic.

Happy refining evryone. Edit: I'd like to appologise to you pantherkiller and felow members for bein over sensitive. I take bake anything that might've offended you. I apreciate your concern for my safety. Cheers for now.
 
tamlove said:
Panther killer. What's your problem? I m new to the forum and I came here to get some advice and or info on some topics. I don't need anyone to tell me how dangerous anything is I'm not stupid as you are implying! I've done enuff research to know that I I'm willing to do anything and everything I can to be sucsessfull in refining. Since I'm new at this I unfortunately don't have much information to share like tips and how to's. As soon as I can ill post pics of my material and how I prossess it. As time goes on ill probably have more posts that are more interesting. Sory to everyone else for this message as its not on the topic but Its not nice to be welcomed on a forum in such a harsh way.

Happy refining evryone.

When it comes to safety, you should accept all warnings whether or not you feel you need them.
Attitude about a safety warning is totally uncalled for in my opinion.

Jim
 
Many times I will state a safety warning when replying to a question, even if I know the person already has a good grasp of the working safely with a procedure, this warning is a friendly reminder and also many people read these posts, so many times the reply may be also to help other members to understand something, or remind them of the dangers. many times answers to questions are not just directed at the question or the only to the person asking the question.

I agree with Jimdoc the attitude is uncalled for, and over a safety warning really makes it uncalled for.

tamlove, what is your problem?
 
anytime a dangerous process is recommended, it should also have a warning about the safety issues even if you are responding to a moderator.the safety warning is more of a general statement where the rest of the reply may be to you personally.

if i can, id like to give you some advice. any response you get from a question should be considered a gift even if its a negative one. if someone offers you a hand made cookie, you should take the cookie with a smile and a thank you. even if you throw it away later because you didnt like that kind of cookie. if someone offers you something, its considered rude to some people to refuse or make comments about it ( "i dont like those kinds of cookies"). the next time, it may a cookie you like but because they thought you were rude, they just dont offer.
 
Patnor or someone else, what do you guys think about going straight with nitric and then AR after crushing chips (thus omitting panning)? I am kind of afraid i am losing values while panning.
 
Imran said:
Patnor or someone else, what do you guys think about going straight with nitric and then AR after crushing chips (thus omitting panning)? I am kind of afraid i am losing values while panning.
From my experience I can say following:
I do not pan. First I remove the magnetic parts, sieve the rest to remove the copper fragments and then simply flush repeatedly the incineration-dust in a beaker until I have very few "sand" in it. There may remain some little pieces of base metal. I remove them with nitic acid and flush again until I have removed all acid.
From this point I have the choice of three methods:
1. solve the gold with AR
2. panning
3. dry it for direct melting

I use method 1 when the risk is big to lose bond wires during panning or I have to much small silicone fragments, method 2 only when there are large bondwires and method 3 when I'm in a hurry.
You can, after having removed all base metals, go directly to the AR method. So you won't lose nothing or at least nothing on the "mechanical way".

Well, it depends on you.

Roy
 

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