Gold recovery from gold pins

[Harold_V]

Thanks for the advice, i can get five vials a month and each vial is around 10 grams so i think if i collect for a little while i might have some value, does anyone know if theres a way of melting it that would seperate the metals?

You would be well served to pay attention to what you've been told thus far.

I'm puzzled why you think melting is a solution. It displays your total lack of understanding. You'll come to understand that if you start reading as you've been advised.

So you know---most metals will readily alloy. Once combined, they are separated only with difficulty, and plated pins are no exception. Further, to melt them would be a monumental mistake, as the gold is now so finely divided that it is troublesome to handle.

There are other means to recover the gold. None of that information will do you any good at this juncture, as you know nothing about the refining processes involved. To put this in perspective, you want to perform a piano recital, but you have never seen a piano. Does that make sense to you? If not, can you understand the concept of learning to walk before you attempt to run?

Read Hoke's book. Read it until you understand what she teaches. Only then should you begin asking questions in pursuit of processing precious metals.

Harold

 

[Harold_V]

I also snipped one of the pins in half to see if it was just a coat of gold on the outside and it wasnt, its a solid gold color all the way through is that a good thing?

Sigh!
No, it's not a good thing, and if you understood how pins are made you'd then understand why.

They are uniform in color because they are NOT copper inside, but brass, an alloy of copper and zinc. It very closely matches the color of gold, plus, gold being very soft, it streaks when you cut through the pin, so you see a blend of gold and brass.

Beneath the gold plating you will discover there's a layer of nickel. It is so thin you won't see it by snipping or filing. You may enjoy success rubbing a pin with a pencil eraser until you expose the nickel layer, as the layer of gold is very thin, measured in tenth's of a thousandth.

Did I mention you should read Hoke's book?

You really should. Please refrain from asking questions until you have.

Harold

 

[besi]

hi I'm from Albania and I am trying to get gold from computer boards with royal water is not I can not. and i do not know where is the error I can not eject from Aqua Regia out a white powder in the bottom of the glass and not the gold can you tell me where I was wrong please that became tiring month can not get here . and is there any way to get easy as golg from board computers .. i see in you tube but is in tailandese language and can understand please return an answer someone

 

[solar_plasma]

hi I'm from Albania and I am trying to get gold from computer boards with royal water is not I can not. and i do not know where is the error I can not eject from Aqua Regia out a white powder in the bottom of the glass and not the gold can you tell me where I was wrong please that became tiring month can not get here . and is there any way to get easy as golg from board computers .. i see in you tube but is in tailandese language and can understand please return an answer someone

Start here:
http://goldrefiningforum.com/~goldrefi/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=70&t=19074

Download and read Hoke's books:
http://goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=17706
and here: http://goldrefiningforum.com/~goldrefi/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=16555

then go on here:
http://goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=6873#6873

before handling chemicals read this:
http://goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/viewforum.php?f=47

and finally a great help for finding the right terms:
http://www.dict.cc
http://www.wikipedia.org/

 

[butcher]

besi,

Forget what you seen on you tube, it is nonsense, you do not get gold from electronic scrap with aqua regia (royal water), that will only make a toxic mess, and at this point you could kill yourself or others with this toxic waste, the gases formed are also deadly.

If you wish to learn, put away the acids, you first need an education, it will take time to learn before you will be ready to get the gold, start with the safety section and dealing with waste.
Read the forum taking the guided tour found in general chat.

Most of all read Hoke book a free download provided in the book section.

Wait until you understand what you have studied before using acids on metals, do so before you learn is very dangerous to you and others, and doing so will only cost you gold, as until you get an education you will just dissolve the gold and lose it.

This is the help you need, to begin learning, but let me tell you you will have a lot of work to do to be able to learn to recover and refine gold, you tube make it look easy it is not. you have to learn the basics, there is a lot to learn, but if you wish to spend the time to learn you have found the best place in the world to learn it from, welcome to the gold refining forum.

 

[danieldavies]

a neodymium magnet is a good tool for testing if something is gold plated. the nickel plating is slightly magnetic. 99% of the time there will be nickel plating under the gold plating.

 

[solar_plasma]

a neodymium magnet is a good tool for testing if something is gold plated. the nickel plating is slightly magnetic. 99% of the time there will be nickel plating under the gold plating.

Brass isn't magnetic in most cases. Another option is logical thinking: If any device for any given application C A N be made without PMs or with only thin plating, it W I L L be.

edit: :lol: from now on called "the canwill theorem" 8)

 

[Mark01212]

Thanks for the advice guys, i have been collecting them for a while now andi have about 400 grams of these pins and have removed the brass and recovered about 3 grams of gold so maby in a year or so i can get a 1 oz bar out of it

 

[patnor1011]

Please refine further (at least twice) your 3g of foils. I find it hard to believe 400g of pictured pins run 3g of Au.

 

[niteliteone]

Wish I could find some pins like these.
Every time I run "High yield pins" I recover between 0.1 to 0.5 percent of starting weight, usually the lower :shock:
I have never seen a pin that returns that much, not even military grade, which run at the higher of my average.

 

[GOLDbuyerCA]

i recognize the pins, by the colour coding on them. they are of good plate, but, my returns, of this size, is usually 4 / tenths of 1 percent by weight. which would be 1.6 grams, at 85 percent recovery efficiency. these fine pins,
are better sold on ebay, than processed. of this size to fit an Amphenol socket / connector. a male and female combination, with the socket itself, usually nets a dollar a pin. " which is good i think " there are some 4 piners,
which of 40 pin of one polarization only sell for 5 to 8 dollars. so selling the pins is the best option " imo " i have often stripped, mixed pins of this type with a weak solution, and a .4 of 1 percent is tough to beat. " imo " .

 

[mehbubrashid]

hi

I want to know the gold recovery possess with actual measurement of chemical
if some one help me i would very glade to him
thanks

mehbubrashid

 

[solar_plasma]

hi

I want to know the gold recovery possess with actual measurement of chemical
if some one help me i would very glade to him
thanks

mehbubrashid

To possess means to own something, but you wanted to ask for a process.

Since I some days ago saw a documentary about how people in Bangladesh are "working" with highly dangerous chemicals, children playing between those chemicals, if not they are working literally IN them, toxical (edit: toxic) waste just being tossed into the streets and the rivers, - I am not motivated to provide ANY help to you until you have posted some images, which show your laboratory and that you act more responsibly than what I saw in this documentary.

 

[Pantherlikher]

Hi and welcome to the forum.
As Solar stated, we need to make sure you are responsibly safe in diving into this pool.
HapHazzard slapping dangerous chemicals together will cause death as well as long term problems for living things as well as the envirenment.

How about you beging to learn by reading the welcome posts followed by forum rules.
That will guide you to your answers.
Good luck

B.S.

 

[bswartzwelder]

Nothing is ever truly free. Even on this forum, the information is all there and there is no charge for it, but you must provide the motivation to learn. If the information is important enough for you to want/need it, then you have to pay the admission price. In this case, the cost of learning is study. No one here will spoon feed it to you. The chemicals you need are all listed here. The proper ratios needed are listed here. The equipment you will need is listed here. BUT, the most important information is the safety information. Guess what. It's listed here.

Many of the chemicals used are dangerous. Some, when mixed create explosive mixtures. Others create fumes which are toxic (not toxical). The vapors of many are heavier than the air you breathe and will linger in your work area long after you have mixed them. Some of the chemicals will cause chemical burns which may take years to heal. These things ARE NOT what you want to learn from your own experience. They are the things the members here have studied for many years and know the best methods for dealing with them.

When you read the forum rules, Hoke's book, and the many posts dealing with what you want to do, then you will know what questions to ask. If you need clarification on a particular point, we will be happy to help you. But, you have to show you are willing to take the first step. Welcome to the forum.

 

[Danielle Crooks]

Aqua regia, I use a nitric acid substitute, works just as well without deadly gas and all that fun stuff. If interested, if be happy to walk you through the process.
I prefer mx3 concentrate to if he nitric acid substitutes. 509 three six nine 37 five three of you want me to explain the process and steps.

I have a friend that has a very good sourse of gold pins that are recycled after being used in testing connections in very expensive(millions of dollars) engines they are a copper gold mix and i dont kniw how to seperate the gold from the copper. Going by the weight of the pins, i think that they have large percentage of gold. Does anyone have any ways they know of that would seperate the metals. I have read a little involving gold recovery but it seems like i need to use nitric acid to recover it but i dont fully understand the process or if that is the best method. If anyone has any ideas i would love to know.

 

[Shark]

Mark01212 hasn’t been here since 2014. Kind of doubt if he will reply.

 

[Yggdrasil]

Aqua regia, I use a nitric acid substitute, works just as well without deadly gas and all that fun stuff. If interested, if be happy to walk you through the process.
I prefer mx3 concentrate to if he nitric acid substitutes. 509 three six nine 37 five three of you want me to explain the process and steps.

Welcome to us.
I do not have access to my links just now.
What you are describing is what we call poor mans AR.
There are thousands of posts here regarding this.
So why would you pay a premium for the MX 3 when plain Nitrate is the same thing only cheaper?
And it is not the magic substance stopping the fumes, it just works slower so less fumes escape.

 

[kurtak]

I prefer mx3 concentrate to if he nitric acid substitutes.

I don't know what mx3 is but I am willing to bet that it is just potassium nitrate - or sodium nitrate - or calcium nitrate - being sold by some company as their "magical" replacement for nitric acid

In other words - who ever is selling this so called mx3 as a replacement for nitric is simply taking one of the above nitrate salts (which can be bought at any gardening store) re-packaging it - giving it the name mx3 - & then selling it to people (that don't know any better) for 2 or 3 times more then what you can go buy it for at a gardening store --- because they have a magical replacement for nitric acid called mx3

works just as well without deadly gas and all that fun stuff.

AND - it produces ALL the same toxic gasses (NOx) that nitric acid produces - it is just that the nitrate salts react with the metal MUCH slower then actual nitric does - so you don't see the big red cloud that you see with nitric AND just because you don't see the NOx red cloud does not mean NOx is not being produced --- it is !!!

You just do not see it because it is reacting MUCH slower & so gassing out of the solution MUCH slower

In other words - the same TOXIC gas is being produced - you just don't see it - so you don't THINK you are being poisoned - when IN FACT you ARE !!!

If they are selling a bleaching product (like pool cleaners) & calling it mx3 - then you are producing chlorine gas which is MORE deadly then NOx

Kurt

 

[Martijn]

5093693753 is registered to Curtis Bretta, in stead of Danielle Crooks.

we usually do not give phone numbers in public messages. for several reasons;
spoofing is one of them. scamming is another.

We like to publicly share information here in stead of phishing for customers, because that is what your first ever post looks like to me: a commercial.
so what will it be? sharing or not? Explain that mystery MX3 to us, and be prepared to have your claims debunked.