goldrecovery.us solder mask removal not working

[steyr223]

Hi everyone
This should be a simple one :shock:
Steve (or other) tried soaking board in draino ( sodium hydroxide) for um about 24 hours or should I say left since you say 4 hours. Removed and Scrubbed vigorously , but no mask removal. Now I feel the need to say these boards had no gold traces or plating I just thought it might be less contamination in in my solution
thanks steyr223 '

 

[kuma]

Hi Steyr223 , how are tricks?
I hope your well!

Hi everyone
This should be a simple one :shock:
Steve (or other) tried soaking board in draino ( sodium hydroxide) for um about 24 hours or should I say left since you say 4 hours. Removed and Scrubbed vigorously , but no mask removal. Now I feel the need to say these boards had no gold traces or plating I just thought it might be less contamination in in my solution
thanks steyr223 '

I've no hands on experience with this one yet , but did you try warming your caustic solution ?
I can't remember exactly , but I'm sure that in Steves video he had removed the solder mask in just 5 or 10 minutes by soaking the depopulated boards in a warm solution.
I could be way off though , :roll:

LaserSteves solder mask removal video ;
http://www.goldrecovery.us/goldrecovery/videos/ShowVideo.aspx?id=soldermask&yt=0

All the best with it , and kind regards ,
Chris :mrgreen:

 

[steyr223]

Hay.Chris
Tricks are always good
Thank you for your post. I Wii have to get to a computer to view that

Thanks

 

[kuma]

Hi Steyr , no worries chief!

Tricks are always good

8)

Laser Seteves solder mask removal video is a real good watch , it couldn't be explained and demonstrated any better to be honest , be sure to check it out when you can!
All the best for now and kind regards ,
Chris :mrgreen:

 

[Geo]

did you warm the solution? if you bring it to a boil it will be too hot and make the solder mask bind harder. i have some that i heated too much and i had to sand the solder mask so the AP could get underneath.

 

[rewalston]

If I remember correctly, LaserSteve states to bring it just to boil (bubbles slightly larger than a pin head), remove from heat and soak board for 10 minutes. Then use a bristle brush to scrub off loose mask.

Rusty

 

[steyr223]

Probably tonight I watch,
Sandpaper :shock: wow
Nope didn't boil. I was finally able to scrape away part of a mask today that had gold trace but only The trace was masked
Hay Geo remember my red mud?
Do you think it was mask

Anyways I'm going to upload some pics of my next process. Please let Mr know if you or anyone sees catastrophe in the mix all boards have been split separating top and bottom.there is not 1 drop of soldler anywhere. .the rectangular pieces are not part of this batch

 

[steyr223]

I cropped this one it should be smaller
These are magnets for part of the money identifier in the ATM draws. They are covered with stainless. when peeled away exposes gold plating. When split the magnets fall away and by the weight I believe there aluminum -but that's rare maybe something else. I will do these by themselves
Thanks

 

[Geo]

the solder mask turns into goo like jelly when it works right. i don't think it would turn brown. take a look at this. this is what happens when the reaction runs out of hcl, in other words too much material and not enough solution. does it look familiar?

 

[butcher]

Geo.
That wouldn't be the thick part of eyeglass fames in the jar would it?

 

[Geo]

nope. just big heavy pins. i get some odd shaped stuff occasionally.

 

[butcher]

Thanks GEO,
I have some plated glases from Ocean, and that kind of looked like the thick pieces.

 

[steyr223]

I agtee with butcher
Eye glasses
I think Geo is fibbi'n :lol:
So is it necessary to remove the mask if there's only say copper traces to rid the contamination. Since its a solid,doesn't go into solution and doesn't plate back to anything,I should be able to filter it when I refine if not sooner or is it easier to just remove it
Thanks?

 

[Geo]

solder mask in your foils is not a problem. if you can work around it and get the foils off the board even if all the solder mask comes with it, they will be left in the filter when you dissolve the foils. like i said about the sand paper, theres no need to sand all the solder mask off but scratch over it so the AP can work its way underneath to the copper.

 

[jaythenutz]

well i used sieves instruction per his web site video under harvesting solder mask removal . except i used a ZEP product called crystal heat drain opener but i followed his weights and measurement X4 and it worked wonderful no wire brush needed just rubbed right off with my fingers after the rinse. yeh i tried the let it soak in crystal Drano over night thing what a mess. any how check out his web page it is perfectly alright to substitute sodium hydroxide with the zep or Drano product as long as the warning label says contains sodium hydroxide.

I agree completely Geo except it takes for ever for AP to get underneath the mask even with scratching and in some cases it left my AP non-reusable.

~*~ peace~*~
~~~~~~~Jay

 

[Anonymous]

Ace Hardware sells 100% pure sodium hydroxide.I use it frequently when stripping boards that are going into a thio bath.I use a large pyrex 9x11(?) baking dish on my hot plate.The heat is brought up very slowly as to not crack the dish,and I can fit several large boards in at once,and still see everything that is going on.DO NOT LET IT BOIL! The solution is very capable of stripping gold,and steel at a high temperature,and I am sure it will attack other metals as well.When I started using steve's method,I made the mistake of using one of my wife's large cooking pots,so that I could strip a large volume faster.After a very short period of time boiling,the solution ate all the way through the pot.I have seen boards that are half way in the solution,look perfectly silver in color,only to scrape away masking from the part of the board that was not under the solution,and see this deepest gold color.And I am not talking about the flash plated video,sound,and ethernet cards either.I sell those to my buyer.

 

[steyr223]

Thanks everyone
Did not get a chance to watch Steve's. Video, but I will try what #@you guys say thank you
PS you guys got to. See my new mini a/p Setup it's. A reverse osmosis ( only 2 cartridge holders) One for a/p and 1 for water
To. Filter the fumes
Of course Im sure you know the bases of a dou/ble chamber water pipe anyways sleeeppp..
.....
.
Thanks steyr223

 

[Geo]

steyr223,

all i can say is, wow.

are you still living in your truck? with this thing sitting beside you? :shock: :lol:

thats really cool looking, does it work well.?

 

[steyr223]

Oops sorry about that l got a little x cited. Back on track

Mic i have 1 question
since we know that too much of an acidic solutions will make a stannous chloride test fail,would sodium hydroxide .
Just curious but if you were to have tested the solution in the cooking pot would it show gold in solution considering the gold was still there or does your wife have a gold plated stove :shock: :lol:

 

[steyr223]

Hay Geo hope the big family life is treating you good.
yup still in the truck I'll get a shop sooner or later that I can scrap out of and actually build a lab( maniacal laughing)
Since I bought lowes brand of muratic acid 32 percent I decided to seal my unit and not sleep n.ext to it until I'm done.
As you saw the picture of the reverse osmosis unit I figured watertight is air tight right . of course that's a model downscale it have to be bigger and the downside I can't see my values