Help with process and a question.

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Mizzladygurl

Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2012
Messages
23
I am very new to this gold refining and I have been researching it for a while. I have read through this forum and watched many youtube videos. Iam really scared of tryig the reverse electro plating technique, and a little scared of the nitric acid technique too. I was wondering if someone might be kind enough to answer just a few questions please.

1. By this being my first time what method would you suggest for me?
2. I have a bunch of ink cartridges, can I use those? The bottoms Look like gold plated metal.
3. I have a gold plated golf club and I will post the picture of it.
4. What are gold fingers from, I have searched google and I keep finding pictures of actual gold fingers or human fingers (lol).

golfclub24goldpl1.jpg

gofclub24goldpl2.jpg

cartridge.jpg
 
are you sure thats gold on the putter? i would recommend you should find someone on the forum you trust to reclaim the gold for you or keep it until you have more to work with and can learn the process.

as for fingers, this is a photo of another members fingers. if theres a problem posting this, just let me know and i'll take it down.fingers.jpg
 
Ok I tried to get the clearest pics I could Of everything it says.
Its a MacGregor and says USA
There a metal band going around it that says 24 k Gold Pl
2.jpg

22.jpg

1.jpg
 
I just want to know if you guys think it's ok to use the methods of refing gold from computer parts and cell phone on this putter? And also can I use other types of gold plated things too.
 
In my opinion the putter would be very hard to get the gold off economically, unless you used the concentrated sulfuric stripping cell, (so much base metal involved), I would bet the little bit of gold on it would not bring as much money as selling the golf club would bring.

I would try researching the golf club, and see if you can find what it may sell for.
check this out for starters:

http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy-ab&hl=en&site=&source=hp&q=+MacGregor++24+K+gold+plate+putter&rlz=1R2RNQN_enUS457&oq=+MacGregor++24+K+gold+plate+putter&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&gs_l=hp.3...1657l20141l1l20813l24l24l0l0l0l0l1625l12637l0j1j5j8j1j5j2j0j2l24l0.frgbld.&psj=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf.osb&fp=fd9da5a0a0015be8&biw=1024&bih=583
 
Thanks Butcher, I guess I will move on to the cell phones and memory sticks. I figured I had a good amount to start with , I thought it might be a fair amount since I did not have many cell phones and memory sticks. Ive got 14 sticks and three cell phone boards and I know thats not enough to get started. But thats ok because I am determined and I think this is so cool, so I continue learning more right now. I am a little nervous about the nitric acid and it seems to be the easiest way right now for me, as a newbie I don't want to make really big mistakes so I think I would go through the forum a little more and read all the posts I can before I get started. Thanks alot for you insight I really appreciate the advice. 8)
 
I would concentrate on learning, and collecting while you learn, we do mess with some very dangerous acids, and toxic wastes, fingers are one of the easiest to learn with, if you decide to try it.

if you decide not to use acids there is always collecting and selling, many times these parts will sell for more than the value of gold they contain.

Pawnbrokers guide (a search should help you find it, I do not remember its location), is a guide to testing jewelry, learning how to test and buy scrap jewelry and selling it could also be a good way to start out.

Buying and selling silver or gold, if you like garage sales, you may find a way to profit here.
Learn what to look for what to pay and how to test, and how to sell.

Even if all you did was study the forum and learn as much as you can from it you would profit not only from the education, but very possibly with some extra spending money or possibly some gold for those hard times to come.

I cannot tell from the picture but it looks like the golf club has the gold plating wore off on one side, GSP has some good posts on about how much gold per square inch, I am not that good at figures or figuring, but I would be surprised if it had more than 5 dollars worth of gold on it.

Welcome to the forum, I hope you find our manners here on the forum pleasant.
 
Yes you all seem very nice and helpful. Some of the gold is warn of because I can see the silver metal. I found this thing in the garbage and figured it looked promising. I will take your advice though and continue studing until I feel confortable enough to try it out for real, I have bee reading about the fumes and dangers so I want to make my area of work as safe as possible. I would rather do it myself I just lit up when I discovered this gold refining thing it seems like it definatley for me I love projects and this is an amazing one. I don't have a garage but I do have a shed, it's small but I think if the door is open it will be ventilated enough. Im getting sleepy now so I think I'm going to call it a night, once again thanks for sharing your knowledge with me and I'll be back tommorow. 8)
 
To start out you don't need to deal with the more dangerous acid (Nitric). Do a search for the AP process. It's what you will want for fingers. Hydrochloric (muriatic) acid is easy to come by, and inexpensive. You use it along with [stt]regular household bleach[/stt](should be peroxide) to remove the base metals from the fingers. Like Butcher said, do your homework while you gather materials to process. Read Hokes, take the Guided tour and just read, read, read.....Always remember-SAFETY FIRST!!!!!
You may want to start with small batches just to observe the expected and sometimes unexpected reactions and results. That's what I did and if you screw up a batch you're not out that much, but you learn!!!!

Check the Links in Lazer Steve's signature. (guided tour and his website)
His videos will help you.

And Palladium's for the forum handbooks;

Welcome to the forum. :mrgreen:

Correction!!!! NOT BLEACH, but peroxide in the AP process. Thanks Geo! :oops:
 
maynman1751 said:
To start out you don't need to deal with the more dangerous acid (Nitric). Do a search for the AP process. It's what you will want for fingers. Hydrochloric (muriatic) acid is easy to come by, and inexpensive. You use it along with regular household bleach to remove the base metals from the fingers. Like Butcher said, do your homework while you gather materials to process. Read Hokes, take the Guided tour and just read, read, read.....Always remember-SAFETY FIRST!!!!!
You may want to start with small batches just to observe the expected and sometimes unexpected reactions and results. That's what I did and if you screw up a batch you're not out that much, but you learn!!!!

Welcome to the forum. :mrgreen:

one little correction. use hcl and peroxide to liberate the gold from fingers, not hcl and bleach. that will dissolve your gold prematurely.
 
Thanks guys, that makes me feel better I was very nervous about the nitric acid. Just the word acid is a little scary sounding. I have been reading til my eyes turned red but I have learned so much.
 
Mizzladygurl said:
Thanks guys, that makes me feel better I was very nervous about the nitric acid. Just the word acid is a little scary sounding. I have been reading til my eyes turned red but I have learned so much.

HCl acid (muriatic) also has some dangers involved especially when combined with other chemicals. Treat ALL of these chemicals with respect and a healthy fear! Like I said before....SAFETY FIRST! Read the safety threads as well as waste disposal. It's all part of refining.
 
Thank you publius and maynman1751 .

I have read the safety rules but whats wierd to me is when I watch the youtube videos none of these guys are using any protection and some of the processes are taking place in an indoor enviorment. I guess thier pros at it. I see now that with AP there is still going to be more chemicals involved. I dont know if I can post links to youtube so I wont but I saw a guy use muriatic acid and bleach and it liquefied the gold, I did not see any foils in it at all. Is this why you guys suggested using peroxide ?
 
Mizzladygurl said:
Thank you publius and maynman1751 .

I watch the youtube videos none of these guys are using any protection and some of the processes are taking place in an indoor enviorment. I guess thier pros at it.

Not pro's.
A pro always uses the proper safety and procedures time and time again. It only takes one mistake.
 
Mizzladygurl said:
I don't have a garage but I do have a shed, it's small but I think if the door is open it will be ventilated enough.


HCl fumes will hang in the air if you don't have a cross-flow of air. You will find that just an open door isn't really good enough.

An open window on the other side of the shed would be much better. Putting a fan in, or directly in front of, the window would be best, until you make a fume hood.

Notice which way the wind usually blows at your site. Work with your back to the incomming wind, so that fresh air flows past you, then over the HCl solution, then out of the shed. If you use a fan, point it to be flowing in the same diretion of the wind.

If the wind comes inward from the door, you should be near the door, with the wind blowing past you, then over the HCl solution, then have the fan blowing outward through the window. The fan set like this will get HCl fumes blowing through it, and will rust much quicker that when it is blowing air inward from the window, but it is necessary. You can usually find fans at the thrift stores like Goodwill and so forth, at low prices, and just replace it, if it quits working.

If the wind blows outward, away from the door, then make the fan blow inward from the window. The fan won't get as much acid fumes on it this way, and will last longer.

If there is no window in the shed, get an in-wall mount fan, and cut a hole in the wall. Opposite the door would be best, with the prevailing wind coming in the door and through the fan in the wall. If the breeze blows sideways to the door, then positioning the fan opposite the door is still the best. If the usual wind blows away from the door, put the fan in the opposite wall, and stay near the fan, with the HCl near the door.

If there is no, or very little, breeze, you will need to use a fan. Plan on building a fume hood, at least a small one, because you will want one soon, regardless of wind conditions.

There will be acid fumes anywhere acids are stored, and more where acids are used. Everything metal in the shed will eventually rust because of this. So don't store metal tools or equipment in the same shed with acids. Even acids in tightly closed containers will emit some fumes, and corrode any metals in the area. That's why garages aren't good for refining.

Study the different forms of danger which the different acids present. They all act differently, and require different precautions under different conditions. Also there are a couple of alkalines which are sometimes used for various procedures, which are as, or more, dangerous than some of the usual acids.

The basics are clean air, rubber gloves, and protective eyewear. Keep some clean water where you are working, to flush away any acids you might spill on yourself. Also some water with baking soda dissolved in it, which will neutralize acid spills. This is just some very basic precautions, to give you an idea of how to prepare to work safely.

As you can see from this fourm, the dangers of refining can be dealt with safely, using the right precautions for each specific procedure. It's done every day. You too can do it. When in doubt, ask questions.
 

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