is it possable to depopulate a pcb to much

[steyr223]

hello how is everyone
weird question 1rst of i have searched hi and low on ways to get solder of board . it seems theres many ways that kinda work.
preheat in HCL, sand bath, mechanical, etc
most of you guys are interested in keeping the parts in good shape .I am not
I need to know nhow much solder is to much
i have slid a blade accros to completely depopulate to where the touch is smooth,but i can still see lots of dots were the solder is
some of these boards have lots of parts ,ie lots of solder
i thought of maybe a drillbit
i did a presoak in murratic and it took my gold
is this different then pre heat
i was told pretreating with acids was not looked upon as good
but i keep reading about preheating with hcl

now what ive been doing for this next batch is splitting my boards(i think this is as dangerous as nitric ,but then my blood does not need to be treated before disposal) "as far as i know" :lol:

now i know you need copper to dissolve in your solution to make copper chloride or is it chlorate

in splitting the boards somtimes only taking off just a paper thin side
with the gold on it is it possable that im not putting in enough copper
that is needed
and im trying to get all solder out, but some of my boards appear to be just paper like cardboard but we know thats impossable or could you plate to paper

does any one have a surefire way
i read about the large bead of solder put on the board and rolled around with i think a tourch . i have not tried yet but being a plumber i know this probelly my best bet for there are times i need to unsolder a pipe and the only way is to start resoldering it the new hot solder breaks free the old solder
i tried a sand bath but apparently couldnt get hot enough

man ! u guys should be glad i can only do one page on my phone
this is what happens when i get next to a pc :shock:
thanks steyr223

 

[Geo]

some tin in your AP is just something you have to deal with if you want to process whole boards.it only gets bothersome when you dont know how to deal with it.ive worked with AP that was so loaded with tin the drag down went all the way to the second refining.i know that sounds like a pain and it is, but when the material is free and all you have is time it suits me just fine.the tin will precipitate out at the most awkward times, like when your filtering or after you heat to drive off chlorine and the solution cools.

 

[Barren Realms 007]

hello how is everyone
weird question 1rst of i have searched hi and low on ways to get solder of board . it seems theres many ways that kinda work.
preheat in HCL, sand bath, mechanical, etc
most of you guys are interested in keeping the parts in good shape .I am not
I need to know nhow much solder is to much
i have slid a blade accros to completely depopulate to where the touch is smooth,but i can still see lots of dots were the solder is
some of these boards have lots of parts ,ie lots of solder
i thought of maybe a drillbit
i did a presoak in murratic and it took my gold
is this different then pre heat
i was told pretreating with acids was not looked upon as good
but i keep reading about preheating with hcl

If you have the patience leave the boards in the HCL the solder will come off. If you scrape the solder off and there is gold under the solder you have the possability of scraping off some of your gold as well. Also remember that if there is gold were the components pentrate the board that some of the gold will possibly be absorbed into the solder. Any solder left in your gold wen processed is too much IMHO. I would nix the idea of the drill bit, it's too labor intensive and you loose time and money. A pre soak in HCL sould not take your gold unless you have added something to your acid to make it do so, there possibly was no gold there to begin with.

now what ive been doing for this next batch is splitting my boards(i think this is as dangerous as nitric ,but then my blood does not need to be treated before disposal) "as far as i know"

Can you give more detail on what you mean by spliting your boards?

now i know you need copper to dissolve in your solution to make copper chloride or is it chlorate

copper chloride

in splitting the boards somtimes only taking off just a paper thin side
with the gold on it is it possable that im not putting in enough copper
that is needed
and im trying to get all solder out, but some of my boards appear to be just paper like cardboard but we know thats impossable or could you plate to paper

You should have all of the solder off before doing this, but I am kind of baffled in why you are trying to attempt this procedure.

What is the color of the boards you are trying to process? Are they by any chance brown?

does any one have a surefire way
i read about the large bead of solder put on the board and rolled around with i think a tourch . i have not tried yet but being a plumber i know this probelly my best bet for there are times i need to unsolder a pipe and the only way is to start resoldering it the new hot solder breaks free the old solder
i tried a sand bath but apparently couldnt get hot enough

The bead of solder you are referring to is done with a soldering iron on specific components that have mutipile pins that individuals are wanting to save for reuse, a tourch will not work well for this application because you will send your board up in flames doing this procedure.

I'll have to try that trick on desoldering pipes of adding fresh solder. But to be honest I have never in 30 plus years in plumbing had a pipe I could not get unsoldered even up to 4" with enough heat and patience and tought (cussing the pipe, a delicate touch with a hammer or enough tourque on the joint helps). Of course as you know water in the pipe will keep it from desoldering. Sediment from the municiple water system that sticks to the inside of the pipe will keep the pipe from desoldering until it dries out and and gets the connection hot enough to break loose. And water below the joint converting to steam while heating will raise up and cool the joint enough to cause problems. I have even desoldered connections while thawing frozen pipes using an electric thawing machine.

For your sand bath try using a bed of coals to heat your container with your sand.

 

[steyr223]

Apparently. Your using a b tank
Near the ocean for some reason the pipes that are old and. Asyou said full of sedament,but in my 30 +years I've learned not to spend time trying to unsolder difficult for you end up burning the pipe and as you know if your unsoldering a pipe you most definitely will be resoldering that same pipe
Anyways my board are brown yes with gold fully or partially on the other side. Splitting --long wayslayers top and bottom become two different pieces

 

[steyr223]

Thank ypu for your time
And replies
I don't envy your 4" I don't like big pipe very very difficult I enjoy residential and commercial repair
I can not compete with prices for new work
commercial water heaters are my specialty and there's not a restaurant or business that wouldn't pay $1000.00+to be open for business. At 3am
back on track
Maybe I misunderstood but lot'
s of posts on pre treatment, and
boards I.guess I learn to deal with it

 

[steyr223]

Is this were you tell me there's very little profit and I'll spend more money than its worth and I be better off selling them
"
Sorry for being presumptuous but I believe I have read enough posts to be somewhat
The stuff is free on a constant basis
I have plenty of mone.y (no wife,no kids,no rent) and I work 24/7 I would and have spent tens of thousand s on school (learning) which is what I'm doing hère.all the pics I have posted on my recovered gold has been from these.boards
Thanks again. Steyr223

 

[Barren Realms 007]

Apparently. Your using a b tank
Near the ocean for some reason the pipes that are old and. Asyou said full of sedament,but in my 30 +years I've learned not to spend time trying to unsolder difficult for you end up burning the pipe and as you know if your unsoldering a pipe you most definitely will be resoldering that same pipe
Anyways my board are brown yes with gold fully or partially on the other side. Splitting --long wayslayers top and bottom become two different pieces

Yes sir I use a B tank for 99% of the work I do in the plumbing, HVAC & electrical work I do, my oxy/acet rig was not used for a long time till I started in this field. And like yourself I cut out the old and put in new if needed. Time is more expensive than the material now days. Don't get too concerned about burning your pipe it will not effect it much, the pressures on the pipe in HVAC can reach 400 PSI and up and I have never seen and failures from this of the pipeing. If you want some fun try silver soldering 4" in 20 MPH wind. You will use 2 tourches with turbo tip's and cuss it the whole time. I quit chaseing new construction work about 10 years ago and do mostly service work now like yourself, why make pennies when you can make dollars.

On your boards I would process those myself rather than sell them. Put the boards in HCL and have the patience to let the solution do it's job on the boards to remove the solder, then do some study on the AP process to run them in after that and I think you will be pleasently surprised with your outcome.

 

[steyr223]

Thanks barren realms 007
Read my post titled what does smb and muriaric make.
should still be insane page at bottom
Geo and I discussed the possibilities of the muriatic
oxidizing the surface of the gold dots and the gold was still there
I will find the 20 or so boards and inspect to be 100% positive. But I believe the dots were gone
I left these in for 16+ hrs how long should they soak for and I'm putting them In a sealed plastic container with the side's pushed in to allow expansion
thanks steyr223

 

[Barren Realms 007]

HCL by itself should not oxidize the gold in what you are doing so your dot's should be ok, they might come loose from the board once the copper base metal under them has dissolved. 16 hours would not be enough time to remove the solder from the boards but it depends on how thick it is, you could be looking at 3-5 days with the boards in your solution before all of the solder is removed, some will be cleaned faster than others because of the different thickness of solder on the boards. I would check them in the morning and then in the afternoon and you will get the job done.

 

[steyr223]

Hello again
Almost there
I read the post last night on godrecvery.info?(my opinion-you made the right choice noxx or should I say the right mistake :lol:
the subject changes about 1/2 way through to solder mask removal
Now Steve you say you remove all the solder with a heat gun.
Tried that and looks identical to my scraped board ie. you can still see the solder on the board
di you still di this Steve and if so do you just as Geo said deal with the tin