just a logical conclusion now tell me why it's wrong

[steyr223]

ok i got an idea (be nice now)
I did an assorted fingers and hand held scanner keyboard boards in a/p
i was successful
only it didn't look like steve's 3 grams
after pouring off there were lots of stringy, muddy,sticky objects
as i poured through my strainer i got an idea

throw everything all connectors full boards with all parts into a vat of nitric acid
l;et sit for a period
dump all contents through filter
put solution aside
take all in filter(boards electronic parts mud crap gold)and add to new container with acid/bleach
or aqua regia
dump through filter
put filter aside
now you would have a perfect solution object free

now it worked on a very small scale from above getting my crap out
why does it seem way to simple?
can you please tell me what i am missing? hareld, butcher,geo, palladium

thanks again guys
steyr223

 

[Geo]

well, i can imagine that some of the plastic components was plasticized and was dissolved by the hcl acid. also going from a hcl solution to a nitric acid solution without first incinerating the material will cause you to lose some values.you cant wash either acid from materials even with a prolonged boil.when you went from hcl solution to nitric solution you made an AR solution that would have dissolved some of your gold.i hope you didnt discard your nitric wash as you may want to test it with stannous chloride.you didnt make a mistake until the nitric,next time go straight from AP to hcl/cl with all the solids you have from the AP solution.be mindful of any black powder that will not dissolve in hcl/cl as this will be most likely silver from the solder.

 

[steyr223]

throw everything all connectors full boards with all parts into a vat of nitric acid
l;et sit for a period
dump all contents through filter
put solution aside
take all in filter(boards electronic parts mud crap gold)and add to new container with acid/bleach
or aqua regia
dump through filter
put filter aside
now you would have a perfect solution object free


steyr223

hey geo
sorry about the mix up i just read mu post

the part here that is quoted was the idea not what i did
after the a/p i did go straight to hcl/bleach after washing with hcl just like steve
which worked better than i ever thought
instant awesome bright yellow (i wanted to put it on the shelf and frame it)
and later after my roomy got home we dropped the gold out with sb
again nice brown color just like you guys said!

then i blew it all over with the torch :lol: :lol: :lol:
these are for learning experience not the $19.00 profit
better now than $1900.00
i did manage to progress and thats the sh*t

the only reason i mention nitric up top is i think it would be better suited for everything not just non metal based
plating which is why i am trying the cell

one more thing
my muratic from home depot was 14.5% and made almost no reaction with peroxide but still worked
which i guess is good cause i kept it indoors with no headacke(pleas dont try this)

how would you make 14.5% into 32% if i boiled and evaporated what would i be evaporating

 

[Geo]

usually muriatic acid is 32% hcl acid.they make an environmentally friendly version and that may be what you have.is it in a green jug? i get my muriatic acid from Lowes and it is 32%.AP works on almost all base metal types with a couple of exceptions,aluminum,pewter,zinc should be avoided in AP. AP will even dissolve steel and kovar given enough time and oxygen.gold plated ceramics can be placed in AP but dont expect it to remove the gold where plated to the ceramic,this is to remove any metal pieces like legs then the ceramic goes into hcl/cl with the foils but i would recomend saving these till you have enough to process and use AR instead of AP.
by the way,you can condense hcl acid but only so far.i forget what % hcl will stay in solution at room temperature.