Are there still a metallic later on these?
Very dark coloration so there might be a reaction with the substrate.
Looking for learning,
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Very dark coloration so there might be a reaction with the substrate.
I dont know, do you suggest any checking way?
as designed, the origin have layout of Cu, Niken and above is Au
I think Cu and Niken are dissolved
I guess you mean Nickel (Ni).
I just found the color strange, it is very brown like Copper in color.
i thought the copper would dissolve into the solution?
but this one is not exactly like copper but it is bubbly, i think it is the glue that has not dissolved completely
That is completely probable.
Maybe AP/Cupric Chloride might be better.
I am a bit confused about AP/Cupric Chloride that you explained above so I searched the internet about how to make it, can you tell me if the way to make it in this Video is correct?
I usually do not see videos.
What you need is HCl and a bit of corroded Copper. (Not strictly neccessary, butbit starts faster then).
Then you need an aquarium bubbler.
Pour in the HCl in a container big enough that the HCl do not splash out during bubbling.
Start the bubbler and let it run.
In a week or so the Copper behind the Gold will have dissolved and the foils will be loose.
If it is thin plating the Gold might be like blackish flakes in the bottom.
Thicker plating will leave beutiful yellow flakes in the bottom.
I have not seen how this method is cheaper than my Nitric method. Normally to extract gold from 1kg of material I need about 4l of solution which will have about 1l of nitric which costs about 10$, while this method as I understand it requires 4l of HCL, and a little copper, and also has to wait 1 week, so it costs more right?
It needs enough solution to cover the material, not a set amount.
For most of us Nitric is if at all available, very expensive.
(Nitric can be as much as 10 times or more expensive as the HCl.)
But for a test it would be interesting to see if the Nitric is what turns the substrate dark.
ok i get it
I intend to put the meterial directly to AR to save time because when I use the Nitric solution, The thin gold leaves separate and float in the water, sticking to the plastic sheet which takes a long time to filter out. when i learn more about the effectiveness of this solution i see information that if put in AR from the beginning then the amount of gold collected will be less, i want to ask your opinion?
The issue might be the Nitric's effect on the PCB.
That is why a Cupric Chloride etch might be better.
To check, take one sheet/CB and put it in HCl for a day or so.
If the CB is still firm and non sticky, I'd use Cupric Chloride on all.
The good thing with this is that it is a set it and forget it process.
Then you can work on what ever else you do in the mean time.
One important thing with both the Nitric and AP process is that the sheets ned a separation so the acid can contact the whole sheets.
When it goes for yield it is a risk that pregnant AR can be caught in the sheets and thus bind up the Gold.
Have you considered pyrolizing and ashing the sheets?
Should I burn it over a normal flame or use an oxygen torch to melt the metal?
Search the forum for pyrolisis/pyrolizing and ashing.
Basically, pyrolizing drives off the volatile components so they can be reburned in the flame.
Then the rest may be crushed and ashed/incinarated so all Carbon is burnt off.
For chemical processing all Carbon has to be driven off as it will capture some of your Gold if it is not.
Alternatively you can smelt it and then run it through a Copper cell.
It all comes down to how much material you have and if you expect to recieve more.
I try this blowtorch to melt gold, It's design maximum firepower 1300 'C but the gold still did not melt, do you know the reason why?
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This burner melts very poorly...
Need a torch for soldering copper
In addition, it is necessary that the crucible be initially heated, and the heat from it does not dissipate.
either insulate the crucible, or place it on a hot surface, for example an electric stove or a frying pan with sand, heated over an open flame.
Need a torch for soldering copper
In addition, it is necessary that the crucible be initially heated, and the heat from it does not dissipate.
either insulate the crucible, or place it on a hot surface, for example an electric stove or a frying pan with sand, heated over an open flame.
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Considering the size of the glass, it looks like there is no more than 200-300 milligrams of gold with a purity of about 900 purityI put them to HNO3 + H2O solution and Gold layout run out, this step is simple but take time
I have about 800 gram at this time
I update the photo of 2nd drop by SMB, it's seem less gold then I am image,
Simple, not enough heat.
It can reach 1300 under very specific conditions.
But it can not put heat in faster than it dissipates.
You need a torch that has enough heat to overcome the heat that dissipates.
A torch and insulated melting dish usually fixes things.
thank you, I will try it
In my place, I can buy this torch also for soldering cooper, maximun temp 1200'C but all the shop owner said that it can not melt gold, so could you please share me your equipment, which model? maximun temp?
I see you are experience with gold quantity and purity, could you please share me the efficient ways to make higher level of gold ( 90 -> 99)
I'm very appreciate!
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