Muradic acid w/Carbon electrodes Hydrogen/Chlorine process

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I find this process extremely promising. I have a good quantity of glass tubes. Some are five (5) feet long, and some are ten (ten) feet long. They range from about 1 to 3" in diameter. They were made for use as laboratory drain pipe for chemicals. I have found I can get rubber end caps with clamps for them that seal liquid tight. I have been doing some different experiments with them. Will try to post a picture soon.
 
I couldn't upload the pictures, but you can see them here:

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Equipment possibility's for the muriatic/chlorine generator. If you live nearby a framing community check with the local Surge dealer.

The milking parlors use lots of pyrex tubing and inline jars. Maybe pick up a few surplus items or from a refit.

Gill
 
Be careful. Remember you will be creating Hydrogen at the top of the tube. You'll see it fizz like soda as soon as you turn on the power.

Make sure your connections are secured and given a coat of rtv or the fumes will eat the connection an possible cause an explosion if they spark.

The more power, the more Hydrogen produced. Fortunately Hydrogen is extremely fast moving, and will dissipate rapidly as long as you don't put a cap on it.

Also, you want to keep the size of the tubes small enough to retrieve your finished scrap. Or allow the bottom to be opened when finished. I'm concerned tubes that size when filled with fluid might snap from the weight.

If you need any help let me know. It really took me about 3 rigs constructions before I had the kinks worked out.

Tips:
making trays to lower the scrap in and out without having to dump the column is very helpful.

Put a plastic rod inside the tube, before you fill it with scrap. You'll want to be able to give the contents a little stir every now and then and if you don't stick the rod in before the scrap, it becomes nearly impossible to wiggle it down afterwords.

You could place a Teflon stir magnet in the bottom and use a neodymium mag from a hard drive to drag it around from the out side. Similar to a aquarium cleaning magnet.

Some plastics are softened and partially dissolved in the solution. I found some older plug connectors the grey, and brown ones turned to mush.


Let us know how the reaction is progressing, good luck.
:p
 
The photos look good. Looks like you have a good amount of juice running through it. What volt/amps is it pulling?

Also you might want to clean up the trimmings a bit by removing the solder.

An easy way to clean your boards is as follows:

1. USE A FULL SAFETY SHIELD to protect your face from hot flying solder. Put some gloves on, or at least protect the hand that will be holding the board.

2. Hold one end of the board in one hand with vice grips or heavy pliers.

3. Give the underside a quick roast with map gas. Focus on a area about 5" x 5" moving the flame around until the board just begins to pop.

----- Don't burn the board - toxic fumes.
----- Don't overheat and fuse the target element to its under plating.
----- Remove as much of the surface components yo can prior
to roasting.)

4. Now that the solder is molten, give the board a whack (solder side down) on a hard object. I use a metal bracket from a old tower case. Place a plastic tray filled with some water (just enough to cover the bottom) in front of this bracket (this is used to catch the hot solder and components that fly off the board)

Only takes a few minutes to remove about 98% of the solder. Even though its not absolutely necessary with my method, it just eliminates one more thing that COULD cause you to pull out your hair when your SMBing.

This allows you to obtain solder free connector/pins from your boards. That is unless you enjoy letting your OCD run wild. :twisted:

Ill post a video to Youtube sometime this week.
 
Very cool, Dallas.

I would like to know where you can get the carbon electrodes.

Collecting the hydrogen gas for other uses is something I am VERY interested in, a volatile gas indeed; but environmentally ideal.

I believe hydrogen as a fuel is destined to replace hydrocarbons- the Japanese are already powering vehicles with it.

It is only a matter of time.

Good luck with your innovations, and welcome to the Forum!
 
If you look at the photo of my column, to the left is a HHO generator. Ive been building Hydrogen cells for the past 2 years. Thats what gave me the Idea for this process. Ill take some photos of my cells and post them later today.

The original use of the carbon disks was in a HHO cell I made in a large glass flip top jug. I fed a lead down through the out spout that ran out a tee that I sealed the other lead was attached to the metal of the actual vent. This allowed me to run all my power into the cell, while only having to drill one hole in the lid.

A cool design Ive been working on is pressurizing a cell that has a inner cell of hho. Pressurizing the outer chamber with Oxygen is much easier to deal with and the use of cheaper gauges can be used (saving you $$$ on expensive Hydrogen rated valves. Not to mention the headaches trying to make a pressure vessels hydrogen tight.)

The inner vessel is open on the bottom and is partially submerged in water. Pressure is applied to the outer chamber forcing the water up on the HHO gas.

Easy way to get the force needed to cut without having to produce high quantity. Just fill up the inner chamber (take as long as you want to fill it. Disconnect that cell with a valve, then add the air pressure. Use it until you run out, then recharge again.

I also made a small cutter rig out of baby soda container (the plastic container they heat and suck into a 2ltr soda bottle form). Heres a photo.

Im getting ready to put a unit on my car next week.
 

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The clear plastic soda bottles made from PETE are quite resistant. They don't stand up to con H2SO4 but the heavier ones will take AP, HCl/Cl, and even AR for short-term disposable use. The Chlorine doesn't seem to bother PETE.

They make great little reaction vessels for testing samples. Use the heavier ones. The thin wall ones work but they won't take any accidental pressure spikes like what happens when you inadvertently leave the lid screwed on tight in a hot water bath and go for a break.

Oops.
 
I have a local science supply store here. I guess its time for me to start putting items on my site. I have many different parts, pieces, vessles, and designs for a wide variety of projects. Refining metal, and HHO (Hydrogen Oxygen Cell) ideas and designs.

I run across all kinds of cool items while Im out hunting for supplies.

Ill get on it and will have something up by mid next week.
 
Yes, but keep in mind when I say under pressure I'm talking far below the 300psi level where they can self ignite. (For reference a typical fire extinguisher is 300psi)

I have seen designs where the positive electrode and the negative electrode are in separate columns, connected ate the bottom similar to a upside down pitch fork. This is the safest way to produce both. The other thing to watch out for is designs that are using PVC as the container risk explosion due to static discharge.
 
Here are some more picture links.

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Here's what the previous pictures are about. I used silicon glue to attach a glass pipe fitting (it's a Y section, that's all I had) to a slab of graphite. I put a CPU in with Muriatic Acid. I put a carbon arc rod in the top. The graphite is attached to the positive and the carbon rod to the negative. This produces chlorine bubbles on the graphite.

What is nice about this setup is that I normally have problems when the temperature is in the below freezing range like it is now. Also cold liquid holds more chlorine gas than warm liquid does. Plus, as the HCL evaporates it turns off the system, which I think is O.K because this lets the dissolved chlorine work on the CPU instead of just producing more chlorine constantly to be lost into the air.

A few times a day you can add some more HCL to restart the cell. I started it just yesterday and this morning all the legs are gone from the chip and the gold plated spots on the top have all the gold gone from them as well. I will test the solution for gold content.
 

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More pictures.
 

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Steve,

I love it!

The slab of graphite to seal the tube is a great idea.

If you have any more tubing left please PM me about purchasing some.

Thanks,

Steve
 
Here's a picture of the test for gold. I put some of the HCL on a piece of filter paper and added a few drops of testing solution. I didn't see much color so I heated it over the stove and then the dark ring appeared. Also, the area inside the ring has a faint purple color that is not easy to see.
 

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I did another test to verify the previous results. This time I just put the testing solution on the filter paper, but did not first put a drop of the HCL. I did this to see what happens when you heat the test spot with just the testing solution. You can see that the same brown ring appeared, so this is NOT an indication of gold. There is no faint purple stain on this like the other one, so I would conclude that there is dissolved gold in the test sample of HCL.
 

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Now you should be able to see the faint purple stain. I heated the paper more gently, enough to develop the stain, but not form the brown ring.
 

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Here's the CPU. This type of CPU has pins (legs) that go through the entire ceramic body. Notice from the picture that the entire pins are gone leaving a clean hole. The black around the holes is probably silver. One of the "rings" slide off, showing a silver like metal ring still attached to the ceramic.
 

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