not sure if I can ever get it back

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BJL1984

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 15, 2012
Messages
47
Location
New England
Greetings, I am new to this gold recovery and refining thing, and was looking for a what i thought would be a safe way to do it, well long story short, I went to Shor industries and bought their refining system with the "Nitric acid suplement", I was processing goldfingers from e-scrap, and after taking a week to prep everything i had, (Removing as much of the fingers as I could off the boards with a razor blade)ended up with about a pound of material, I followed the instructions with the kit and processed the material it all dissolved and neutralized with urea now I have about a gallon of whats looks like coca cola I have filtered it so it is free of floating matter, which I saved just incaes messed something up and no matter how much SMB I put to it I get nothing, I have now read hokes book, and am thinking about doing the process of boiling it down and adding HCL to get rid of extra Nitric, Can anyone give me some insite on weather this is a good idea, the othr thing is when i called shor, they said if the percipitant they sent dosent work, which i assume is SMB as far as I can test it to be, to drop all the metal with aluminum foil, at which point i would do the smart thing and prep with nitric acid and then use AR to get results the old fashioned way, I have been stressing over this for quiet a while and hope I have not lost my gold anybits of help would be greately appreciated Thank You
 
Hi BJL1984

Start here:
http://goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/search.php?st=0&sk=t&sd=d&sr=posts&keywords=shor+problem
 
I would assume this to be an aqua regia solution loaded with base metals; there can also be a possibility of un-reacted salts like nitrates, sulfates and chlorides.

I would test the pH and make sure it was slightly acidic, add a clean copper buss bar to solution with stirring to cement any values from solution after process complete decant and filter solution test solution for values before treating it for waste.

Any powders (you can add other powders saved from the process, wash well in boiling water letting settle while still warn decant liquids, neutralize with sodium hydroxide wash and rinse well again in hot water to remove salts test wash solutions before adding them to the waste bucket, dry and incinerate powders they may dry and then fuse to form a salt fusion that looks like a thick syrup keep heating until dry again keep the dry powders crushed, incinerate to red hot glow, stirring crushed powders to get good air exposure while hot.

These incinerated will be oxides of base metals and any values you had from the cemented process these can now saved and treated to remove base metals and recover values when you are ready.
 
thanks for the info samuel and butcher, gonna try the copper thing I have some really nice buss bars I took out of an old 3phase panel today at work so they should be nice and pure, after doing the cementing, should I go get more HCL to do hokes process of evaporating and diluting work is slow this time of year, so I have to budget my chemical spending
 
If you add the copper buss bar there is no need to add HCl and evaporate. The excess nitric will be used up by the copper and cement any values that are in solution. Follow Butchers directions. Anymore questions....ask!
 
Should be no reason to evaporate at this stage, you should save the powders until you have studied more to understand each step before trying it.

After collecting the cemented powders.

You can incinerate the powders in a corning casserole dish on a hot plate, using a torch to get powders red hot, you can also do almost all of the whole process in this dish leaving powders in it almost the entire process, the rinses and acid treatments or liquid can be decanted from this dish, leaving the powders in the dish and adding and removing liquids, I use a lab tool that resembles a turkey baste suction tool with bulb to remove liquids, pipettes are nice to get the last drops.


Depending on the materials used with the Shor step would make me decide which acid I would choose to remove base metals first.

If much solder was involved the tin content may still be high, this could be a problem if going to nitric acid, or for filtering solutions later, we want to remove tin before putting gold into solution, in this case a boil in HCl will put tin oxide and some of the base metals above hydrogen in the reactivity series of metals into solution, decant the HCL after powders settle well, the color of the decanted solution can be an indicator if another treatment will dissolve more base metals and should be used, the powders can then be washed with boiling hot water washes lowering heat and letting powders settle well before decanting liquids (decanting very warm will help to remove lead chlorides.

Remember test all solutions for values.

That leaves copper and other base metals, for this I would choose nitric acid.
But I cannot add it to these powders which will contain chloride salts or liquids, nitric acid would form a form of aqua regia with these salts, and it can put my gold into solution before I am ready.

So I would give these powders a wash in sodium hydroxide solution heating a little stirring well and then let powders settle, decant and use water to wash chloride salts formed, after several water washes, put powders on low heat to dry slowly at first we do not want the water gases trying to escape splash out our powders, raise heat as it dries keep powders crushed and stirred, incinerate them again.

Cool the powders and give a wash in water, now you can use nitric acid to remove base metals, and rinse this with water.

Aqua regia is hard to learn so I suggest you do not use it at this point.

In this case I suggest drying and heating the powders to a couple of hundred degrees to remove nitrates, we do not need to heat the powders to red-hot this time.

Now the powders can be dissolved, cover with HCl, heat to low, add bleach with your pipette in small doses to dissolve the gold, the solution should look yellow of gold chloride, after the gold is dissolved, heat for a while to let any excess chlorine be driven off with the heat, turn off heat, let the solution settle again, decant solution through a filter into your clean jar you use to precipitate gold, the insoluble material left I would put into the stock pot, or with the filters to be burned later.

Now you should be ready to precipitate the gold........

Others may treat this differently.
 
Put the copper in let sit for about 12 hours, slight black haze formed on copper but nothing else, liquid still tests for gold with stannous chloride (which i made my self) after reading that the stuff that comes with those kits maybe no good, One bit of good news had some success with the HCL/Cl boil process on some gold plated pins collected from DSL and other types of internet switch unit's got about 12 pounds of the pins all removed from their plastic connecters gonna work with that material for a while, to get better aquainted with the whole process, doing it all in small batches so as not to screw anythig up, hopefully when I get comftortable with this process i can go back and better trouble shoot my first attempt as my storage space for chemicals is not heated should I worry about things freezing if I dont get back to the first mess for a while?
 
Yes picture's of the positive stannous chloride test.

Cementing on copper will work, unless the solution is not acidic, or you have none or very little gold in solution, in the case of very little gold in solution it may be hard to tell until you decant the solution.

I see no reason to jump from one process you have trouble with and have not figured out yet to the next, you may just take the problem into your next batch.
 
my phone is charging, pic will be up in the morning, I get what you mean butcher jumping from one to the other, but after much success today, I have just under 20 grams of material, I recoverd from the plated material, with which I can try to refine on a small scale further, to expariment, and maybe come up with a conclusion as the what i did wrong if anything, , because this time when i do it, I will have known amounts of known chemicals, not a "cocktail" of who knows what following directions of someone that may of may not exist, tho their is a bright side to all of this one does learn ones best lessons through ones own mistakes,
 
Just want to update the status of what happened update, my untimely leave was due to a motorcycle accident buts a whole other story of stupidity, I got a chemist friend of mine to help out with what I was doing and we Dropped everying we could out of the solution and strted over from "raw" material it was actually a very good experience, I Learned a lot, Getting to see a professional do all the steps, He even sat me down and helped me learn the equasions of what I was doing and some indepth learning on the chemicals being used and how they should act under certian conditions, Got close to an ounce 25.3 grams to be exact, Thank you to all that put input into the subject, I love this place its now my home page and one of the frist places I check after my email
 

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