Non-Chemical Pic of my Cell

[Hannibal Smith]

But how much % have the sulfuric??

Max

 

[Barren Realms 007]

But how much % have the sulfuric??

Max

Full strength, no dilution. 97% if memory serve me right.

 

[Hannibal Smith]

Hmm that´s bad. Here in germany its very difficult to get 97% sulfuric... :roll:

Max

 

[Barren Realms 007]

Hmm that´s bad. Here in germany its very difficult to get 97% sulfuric... :roll:

Max

Look for drain cleaner and then check the MSDS sheet when you find some to make sure it is the correct stuff.

 

[Hannibal Smith]

Okay. Thank you.

Max

 

[patnor1011]

Hmm that´s bad. Here in germany its very difficult to get 97% sulfuric... :roll:

Max

If you live close to Czech or Polish borders go and get that there. You can get even nitric there and I guess that it will be cheaper than in Germany.

 

[dtectr]

Here it is.

The other thing that I notice is that the right or non-connector end of the cathode appears to touch or else hang very near the bottom. As your gold accumulates on the bottom, the lower the cathode hangs, the less time you can run your cell.

Specifically, once the cathode makes contact with the sediment on the bottom, your cell will begin to short across to anode side, stalling or stopping your stripping, & rapidly heating the solution, which if let run, will begin to strip base metals fairly aggressively. Tie it up level with some uncoated copper wire, until you can make an anode with 2 clips.

 

[husker4515]

Here it is.

The other thing that I notice is that the right or non-connector end of the cathode appears to touch or else hang very near the bottom. As your gold accumulates on the bottom, the lower the cathode hangs, the less time you can run your cell.

Specifically, once the cathode makes contact with the sediment on the bottom, your cell will begin to short across to anode side, stalling or stopping your stripping, & rapidly heating the solution, which if let run, will begin to strip base metals fairly aggressively. Tie it up level with some uncoated copper wire, until you can make an anode with 2 clips.

Dtectr, Thank you.

I just emptied my cell and collected 150 ML of black powder. No wonder why I have been having issues with my cell, I stop using the copper mesh because it wouldn't work as well as the stainless steel mesh. The whole time my cell was shorting out and I didn’t know it, thanks for heads up. It did get very hot, more than usual and ate right through two SS wire baskets. I will have to make a new lead anode with two clips and switched back to my copper basket. Thanks again Dtectr.

 

[dtectr]

Here it is.

The other thing that I notice is that the right or non-connector end of the cathode appears to touch or else hang very near the bottom. As your gold accumulates on the bottom, the lower the cathode hangs, the less time you can run your cell.

Specifically, once the cathode makes contact with the sediment on the bottom, your cell will begin to short across to anode side, stalling or stopping your stripping, & rapidly heating the solution, which if let run, will begin to strip base metals fairly aggressively. Tie it up level with some uncoated copper wire, until you can make an anode with 2 clips.

Dtectr, Thank you.

I just emptied my cell and collected 150 ML of black powder. No wonder why I have been having issues with my cell, I stop using the copper mesh because it wouldn't work as well as the stainless steel mesh. The whole time my cell was shorting out and I didn’t know it, thanks for heads up. It did get very hot, more than usual and ate right through two SS wire baskets. I will have to make a new lead anode with two clips and switched back to my copper basket. Thanks again Dtectr.

No problem, my friend, we ALL live and learn.

I'll post a pic of the cathode I wound up making after several attempts at other designs. Hope it helps.
dtectr

 

[philddreamer]

If I may add my "2 centavos", always keep track of the acid's temperature. When it gets too hot, it will dissolve just about anything. When it gets hot, just back off for a few minutes & let it cool. If I recall, the temp. should be below 100 degrees F.

In the pic., I used to use the pan for when I was filtering the solution, then I found out about the temp issue, so I would fill the "pan" with water & that help keep the acid cooler longer. But, be very careful not to splash any of the water in the acid; DON'T be in a hurry!!!
Don't let the container sit in the water over-nite either. Sulphuric acid absorbs water, & when water gets in the acid, you loose the high concentration & when this happens, the solution will start dissolving base metals, like copper.
This is the reason why you have to put a lid when your done with the cell, or put the acid back in a sealed container.
If you suspect there's water in the acid, heat the acid & evaporate the moisture from it, this will concentrate it; but be very careful when handling hot sulphuric!!!
When you put your cell together, check Lazersteve's video, again & again, so you don't miss any details.

Take care!

Phil

 

[Geo]

OK guys, Ive kept it a secret long enough.having a analytical mind ive come up with an improvement on the copper basket.ill post pics when i build another.i start with a peice of 10 gauge copper wire and use pliers to bend the wire into the shape of the basket i want to make and then cut a peice of copper mesh to cover the bottom,back and sides. then i strip a short peice of small stranded copper wire to use as "thread" then with a sewing needle,sew the mesh to the copper wire frame.it takes so much less mesh wire because its one ply but the 10 gauge wire is so heavy it is very strong so you can load it as heavy as you want to and can even push down on it with some force without worry of it bending.applying downward force stimulates more activity.ive been thinking about applying a copper weight on top of my material to hasten the process.i do about a half of a pound of pins at a time.

 

[Palladium]

Make sure if you're using a basket that the front of the lip is turned down shorter than the side lips. If you don't you will create a faraday cage and the process will slow down or won't work.

 

[jmdlcar]

What brands of drain cleaner are best? And what local store would have it?

Jack

 

[Geo]

any hardware store should have it. look for the drain opener in a plastic bottle inside a plastic bag. i use Liquid Fire. works just fine to me. i posted the way i make my baskets in the general tab but heres a pic of my baskets.

 

[jimdoc]

What brands of drain cleaner are best?
Jack

Rooto is a good one.

Jim

 

[dtectr]

What brands of drain cleaner are best?
Jack

Rooto is a good one.

Jim

Yup. It seems to have fewer additives than Liquid Fire, but some use it with no real problems.

 

[jmdlcar]

I should have ask but I know I need Drain Cleaner (Liquid Fire or Rooto) and 32% Hydrochloric Acid (HCL). What other Chemical do I need or any thing else?

What is a good temp to keep it at? Is it better to keep it cool or cold to work better? I know I should keep below 100 degrees F.

You all been great help.

Jack

 

[Geo]

I should have ask but I know I need Drain Cleaner (Liquid Fire or Rooto) and 32% Hydrochloric Acid (HCL). What other Chemical do I need or any thing else?

What is a good temp to keep it at? Is it better to keep it cool or cold to work better? I know I should keep below 100 degrees F.

You all been great help.

Jack

you only need the sulfuric acid (drain opener) for the gold cell, no hcl is needed. keep the acid as cool as you can safely. while operating at 12v the cell will heat quickly if you are running large pieces or a mesh basket, try to keep the amps below 10, 8 is optimal.concentrated sulfuric acid will not attack copper while it is cool but once it warms up it will attack copper readily.

 

[jmdlcar]

I should have ask but I know I need Drain Cleaner (Liquid Fire or Rooto) and 32% Hydrochloric Acid (HCL). What other Chemical do I need or any thing else?

What is a good temp to keep it at? Is it better to keep it cool or cold to work better? I know I should keep below 100 degrees F.

You all been great help.

Jack

you only need the sulfuric acid (drain opener) for the gold cell, no hcl is needed. keep the acid as cool as you can safely. while operating at 12v the cell will heat quickly if you are running large pieces or a mesh basket, try to keep the amps below 10, 8 is optimal.concentrated sulfuric acid will not attack copper while it is cool but once it warms up it will attack copper readily.

So when I get done with the sulfuric acid (drain opener). What is left to do is melt it and I will have gold. Or is there any thing else to do?

 

[Geo]

have you read any post on this? lazersteve has some nice videos showing how to do the whole process. when the cell gets fairly hot when you touch the glass its too hot,stop and take a break and let it cool down. you wont have to stop to collect the powder until the acid gets almost as thick as jello. when the acid gets thick pull your cathode out and depending on the material you may have to brush the black powder and sludge off the cathode with an old tooth brush back into the cell.then rinse the cathode and place in a plastic bag to help keep the oxidation off. if you use an anode rod remove that and set aside, if you use a mesh basket rinse and dry with a hair drier and place in a plastic bag. keep all rinse water in a plastic container. place the lid on your cell and let stand for at least 24 hours. most of the black powder will have settled by then. use a large funnel with a paper towel folded many times and pushed into the small part of the funnel from the top to make a filter. pour acid from the cell slowly into the funnel. try not to disturb the powder in the bottom as much as possible until all the acid has been filtered then pour the last bit in. DO NOT RINSE WITH WATER. put the filtered acid back into the cell for the next batch and process the black powder in the manner you know best.
hope this helps you. good luck.