Ready to recover - please help!

[beachbum1975]

Ok, after about a year of harvesting, I am ready to attempt to process new types of items (for me). To date, I have only processed one batch of gold fingers yielding a single 5.7 gram button and with the weather being good to process in my area I'm excited to take on the next challenge. I have been spending weeks scouring over the forum trying to find to recover the items I have below...





Because there are so many sources of information here, can you folks assist me in your opinion's "best practices" to recover the gold from the items I have shown above? I have muriatic acid, Hydrogen Peroxide, Sodium Metabisulfite (SMB) and Chlorox (all the materials used in Lazersteve's gold finger process).

If you think I need to get different chemicals to produce higher quality results, let me know...

Simply sending a URL to a great process for me to research works great, as well!

Thanks in advance!

Shane (beachbum1975)

EDIT: Also, I plan to process about 5 pounds of gold fingers in the next month, so can I just throw some of the above items in with them? If so, which items? Thanks!

 

[copperkid_18]

If the pins are non magnetic put them in a crock pot with enough hcl to cover them and put it on low for 6 days. The gold foils will be left.

 

[lazersteve]

I would not mix any of the separated items in the photos.

CK_18 has made a good suggestion for the pins, or 35% nitric will work better if you can get it.

The ceramic cpus can be processed using the modified poor man's AR (search for the exact term) after the bottom plates have been removed with a propane torch.

The Pentium 4 cpus are very low yield. Use the propane torch to knock the legs off and process the legs for gold in the crockpot with the other pins. There is nothing in the core of these cpus.

The fiber cpus and chip set cpus will need to be crushed very fine and leached with HCl-Cl or AR. If you have the means to incinerate them safely, they crush very easily after incineration.

The boards will be fine in AP after they are properly stripped of parts, solder, and mask.

Steve

 

[rewalston]

Steve is straight HCl good for removing solder? I've looked around and can't quite find the answer to that one. I'm assuming soaking in HCl with plenty of rinses until rinse is clear would get rid of the solder and then proceed with AP for the gold?

Rusty

 

[lazersteve]

Steve is straight HCl good for removing solder? I've looked around and can't quite find the answer to that one. I'm assuming soaking in HCl with plenty of rinses until rinse is clear would get rid of the solder and then proceed with AP for the gold?

Rusty

It all depends on the type of solder, but for the most part yes. If the solder is high in silver it would be an exception. And of course the lead in the solder would remain as solid lead chloride once the tin dissolves.

Steve

 

[beachbum1975]

35% nitric will work better if you can get it.

Where can I even begin to look to see where I can purchase 35% nitric acid? Auto stores locally or is there a place online I can purchase?

Thanks in advance,

Shane

 

[lazersteve]

I buy ACS grade (technical grade will do fine) 70% nitric from BC Scientific then dilute it down to 35% with distilled water.

You can also make your own if you like using the cold nitric recipe I've posted. You can find the link in the general reactions list of the Guided Tour Link below.

Steve

 

[silversaddle1]

With the crock pot method for the pins, how much (weight wise) can a guy do per batch? And what temp are you running the crock pot? Basic question I know, sorry!

 

[lazersteve]

With the crock pot method for the pins, how much (weight wise) can a guy do per batch? And what temp are you running the crock pot? Basic question I know, sorry!

In reality, there is oxygen involved in the reaction, but I have simplified the equation to the end result. Generally speaking the overall reaction is:

Hydrogen Chloride + Copper metal = copper II chloride + hydrogen gas
2 HCl + Cu --> CuCl2 + H2 (for Cu 2+)

Copper is 63.55 grams per mole
HCl 31% is about 10 Moles per liter therefore:

1 Liter of 31% HCl will dissolve 5 Moles (10/2) of Cu or:

5 M x 63.55 grams per mole = 317.75 grams per Liter HCl

or in grams per milliliter:

317.75 / 1000 = 0.32 grams of Cu per mL of 31% HCl

which is approximately 3 mL of 31% HCl per gram of copper to be dissolved.

There are other side reactions with copper and copper chloride that produce copper I chloride that will precipitate once saturation is reached. The copper chloride document on my website details this.

Temperature will increase the solubility of the copper II chloride end product. While temperature is high (100C) solubility will be increased to 1.5 times it's cold (30C) level. When the reaction cools, the copper chloride will crystallize out if enough water is not present.

Water dissolves 773 grams per liter of Copper II chloride (~365 g of Cu) at 30C and 1200 grams per liter of CuCl2 (~567 g of Cu) at 100C. Additional water will aid in the amount of copper II chloride that can be dissolved. Since the action is initiated by oxygen, it is beneficial to aerate the reaction initially.

Once begun, the reaction is self sustaining as long as the water and HCl levels are as listed in the copper chloride document. At some point the solution will begin to crystallize out as copper I chloride when the acid levels drop too low. This is when you add more HCl or siphon off the dark brown/black ink like liquid and add fresh HCl after cooling.

It's not uncommon for a large mass of gray, off-white, white or clear crystals to be matted around the copper material being dissolved after cooling. This is easily removed by adding HCl to dissolve the crystals. This wash liquid is aerated and used in another batch of copper etchant.

Steve

 

[beachbum1975]

I buy ACS grade (technical grade will do fine) 70% nitric from BC Scientific then dilute it down to 35% with distilled water.

You can also make your own if you like using the cold nitric recipe I've posted. You can find the link in the general reactions list of the Guided Tour Link below.

Steve

As always Steve, thank you for the valuable information. I will certainly keep that company in mind when I get to the point of purchasing...

Best regards,

Shane

 

[gold4mike]

Beachbum - I'm also in Ohio and use GFS Chemical for nitric. They'll ship to you for $65 since you're in Ohio. I ordered a case of six bottles from them a couple of months ago.

http://www.gfschemicals.com

 

[beachbum1975]

Beachbum - I'm also in Ohio and use GFS Chemical for nitric. They'll ship to you for $65 since you're in Ohio. I ordered a case of six bottles from them a couple of months ago.

http://www.gfschemicals.com

Thanks! I will surely keep them in mind.