recover and reuse cell acid?

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Anonymous

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I am using Steve's reverse plating cell. Anyone know how to rejuvinate the acid for reuse?
 
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After all the black powder is filtered out just boil it down until white fumes come off the acid. Let the hot acid cool before handling as hot sulfuric acid is very dangerous.
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If the acid is blue or green then hook the power leads up using Pb (lead) as the positive lead and a stainless steel plate at the negative lead. The base metals will plate out on the stainless steel and can be scraped off. When the acid clears up it can be reused in the cell.

Steve
 
yes I know not to do that but do not know the correct technique.
I'm guessing something like a crock pot?
 
I really am an ignorant turd when it comes to this stuff. I have a very high IQ but unfortunately as the case may be very little schooling.
I find my self by circumstance the reluctant refiner.

I was walking in the woods one day and there in the bushes was an old main frame. It as made in the late sixties and early seventies. A one of a kind navy project. Made a deal with the owner for %.

This is what has led me to this forum. I have read quite a bit and true to form I find that it has taken 3 weeks to dissolve the "pins" in AP.
What started as 4 ounces of pins in a cup of Muratic acid and 2 cups of h2o2 is now a gallon on balance and the pins are now almost dissolved.

I will not use an AR and find that the cell seems to be the awnser.
I will post some pics and maybe someone can help me with ideas as to how to interpret this stuff.

Please assume I know nothing, you won't hurt my feelings.
No high school no high school chemistry.

[img:478:263]http://www.atomsmiths.com/parts/02.jpg[/img]


[img:238:140]http://www.atomsmiths.com/parts/03.jpg[/img]


[img:601:207]http://www.atomsmiths.com/parts/04.jpg[/img]


[img:484:369]http://www.atomsmiths.com/parts/05.jpg[/img]


[img:546:98]http://www.atomsmiths.com/parts/06.jpg[/img]


[img:495:372]http://www.atomsmiths.com/parts/07.jpg[/img]


[img:510:362]http://www.atomsmiths.com/parts/08.jpg[/img]


[img:487:146]http://www.atomsmiths.com/parts/09.jpg[/img]


[img:412:351]http://www.atomsmiths.com/parts/10.jpg[/img]


[img:405:427]http://www.atomsmiths.com/parts/11.jpg[/img]

[img:467:266]http://www.atomsmiths.com/parts/12.jpg[/img]

[img:615:465]http://www.atomsmiths.com/parts/13.jpg[/img]

[img:473:191]http://www.atomsmiths.com/parts/14.jpg[/img]

[img:571:124]http://www.atomsmiths.com/parts/15.jpg[/img]

[img:517:135]http://www.atomsmiths.com/parts/16.jpg[/img]

[img:566:266]http://www.atomsmiths.com/parts/17.jpg[/img]

[img:561:429]http://www.atomsmiths.com/parts/18.jpg[/img]

[img:571:361]http://www.atomsmiths.com/parts/19.jpg[/img]

Anyone seen the round connectors before? their in an aluminum housing. Best rendering method???

When I'm done here I will probably not do this again... or maybe.........
 
They are capacitors but might not be aluminum.

I don't know for certain but you might want to test those capacitors for silver content. The odd ones that look like acorns especially even the black ones.
 
That is correct.
The last board in the pic is the only one of a kind in all of the system.
It has components on it that at the time were considered imposable to do.

By the markings they are capacitors value of 60 micro farads at 50 volts dc.

Tantalum?
 
I should have read your question better the "connectors" Axial lead supports to prevent mechanical failure of the solder joint. If any are wetted with solder they wouldn't be aluminum. On some modern stuff that I have taken apart they just RTV silicone the heavy components to the board for vibration proofing.

I see in the next to last photo one of the black ones have the symbol for a diode on it.
 

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