Refining Gold from Gold Filled Jewelry

[Oneal58]

Butcher, I would like to meet you one day my friend? Thank you for your concern, all your consistent help and always being there for me. I know I got a long way to go yet, but it feels good to have that little button in my hand. Who knows, when I get to turning out some bars, instead of buttons I may just pay you a visit 1 day. How far are you away from YellowStone, WY.? I think you have to go across Idaho, don't you? I have always wanted to go there with the wife/grands. Maybe I could run by to say Hello, and just to shake your hand in thanks?
Well, got to go see what my Nitic bath is doing, catch you in a while.
Thank You, my friend!
Oneal

Oneal, you scared the crap out of me, I thought you were in danger, with that gold exploding after adding ammonia.

Edit: Well after cleaning my pants, and looking at your button Good job.
please do more study before making any more gold buttons, I sure would hate to see something happen to my friend.

 

[Oneal58]

Thanks qst42know, that's exactly what happened. Lowered heat, gold stopped popping. Checked back on Harold's post back in 2008 and saw that he had mentioned this popping also.
Thank you for your help.
Oneal

is there an indicator that will key you in when the Borax is gone.

The borax glass will go milky white and fall off.

Gold is popping like popcorn, I have to keep the beaker covered because the small pieces of gold will jump out the beaker.

Drying too fast causes steam explosions to eject some of your gold. Low heat till mostly dry would help, then drive it hotter.

 

[butcher]

Oneal,
I guess I misread your post, or read into it, and did not see rinsing out of the ammonia (or acidifying it), the Bang of the gold drying by gold popping, did scare me, I really thought you could have been in danger and with out seeing what you discribed I did think more than steam was possibly causing this reaction (was afraid what might happen if you continued heating, or went to melting, I had emailed Harold, GSP, Lou and Quest 4 to know, asking for their help, as I had seen your post was from ealier this morning, and was afraid you may have tried to melt this, and with no updated posts thought you could be headed for the hospital or worse. (the email's to others were deleted)(quest4toknow was online), I am so glad qst42know was right and it was just steam eruptions.

I do not know how far I am from YellowStone, WY. but I would also like to shake your hand someday,and meet you in person, just what little I know of you your a man I would like to meet, (and I don't care about meeting many people,I stay away from them for the most part, farther away the better).

 

[The Refiner49er]

Hi All-

It has been a long time since I posted or asked questions here, but I am back into refining and would like to add a thread to this subject...

I am currently processing fairly large quantities of gold filled items, and as a result have substantial volumes of depleted nitric acid that likely has silver content, of which I want to recover. I have been reading through the forum and see a number of options, but would invite and appreciate any input on the best way(s) to collect and refine the Ag component from the waste acid.

I also see many complaints about the accessibilty to nitric acid and it's relative high cost. To share my experience in this regard, I used to make my own nitric acid, and it works OK, but does not come close in performance to commercial grade (68%), and I found a source here in Portland Oregon which is Univar USA Inc. Note that it must be purchased in 165# SS kegs, and the deposit on the container is $400 (yikes!) but the acid ends up costing about $15 per gallon; Univar is a national chemical supply company with many locations, just thought those who have high consumption requirements might want to know.

Anyway, please return any appropriate feedback on silver nitrate recovery from nitric acid, thanks!

 

[qst42know]

Have you tested this used nitric with DMG for palladium?

Your test result will indicate some choices.

 

[The Refiner49er]

Hmmm, no I haven't tested for Pd and honestly never thought to do this, and as a refiner have not done much at all with this PGM metal. Is there a chance that gold filled jewelry and eyeglasses really contain significant percentages of palladium? Most of what I am processing is older stuff, I am sure there is probably a fair amount of silver in the spent nitric.

I see many references to cementing out the Ag with a copper plate, but because I do not always completely consume the nitric, it must first be neutralized; after all, copper is not cheap these days either! Moreover we are talking about many GALLONS of solution as the result of this commercial endeavor, and the last thing I want to occur is to inadvertantly accumulate large volumes of waste chemicals that still contain values. I am currently storing in white 30 gal HDPE drums but want to develop a system soon for complete recovery then dispose the vacant solution rather than have it sitting around, as I see it as another liabilty.

Thanks for your input!

John

 

[qst42know]

If you included white gold filled in your processing some of this will be white from palladium, some from nickel.

Some tests will give you a better Idea if it's worth cementing on copper. If you have no Pd or very little you can skip the copper and collect silver chloride with HCL.

 

[The Refiner49er]

OK, thanks! I will pick up some DMG, any suggestions as to a source? Also, if you don't mind could you elaborate further on the HCL process for dropping the silver such as acid ratio/volumes and any other steps in preparation/recovery? I assume if Pd is present then this metal is dealt with first, then recover the Ag?

If Pd is indeed a justifiably payable metal, I am thinking now it would be prudent to separate the white gold from the yellow and handle the wastes individually.

 

[qst42know]

I bought some DMG from a seller on eBay but he dosen't have anything current.

Some here have dealt with this company. It's a little expensive from them but a gram will do many tests.

http://www.abprospecting.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderfiles/furnche18.jpg

 

[butcher]

We generate waste that can be used, or should I say we make some useable chemicals or metal powders we can think of as waste that are not waste but are useable products.

In industry many of the chemicals we buy are actually waste from a process that company’s would have to pay big money to get rid of, like sulfuric acid, they should pay us to take it off there hands, these company’s will find a use and market there waste instead of pay to dispose of it, Hmmm we have SO2 gas that will cost us if we pollute air from our process, and when we treat these fumes we make sulfuric acid, that would cost us money to neutralize and dispose of, what can we sell this for maybe drain cleaner, or clean up some of it and sell it as battery acid, or sell this to some other company to use in there processes.

One example: the chemical by products like potassium bisulfate (white salt) from making nitric acid can be used to make ferrous sulfate, or this sulfate can be used like sulfuric acid in reactions, or in fusion to make rhodium soluble in water.

There are many chemical byproducts we generate that can be crystallized and reused like ammonium chloride.

If I have a caustic waste, I can use it to neutralize an acidic waste.

Copper I chloride powders, I will pour my spent solution’s into a bucket of these copper chloride powder, some copper from these powders will go into solution and be replace by silver gold or PGM that may have been in solution as traces.

I keep recovery stockpots, and refining stockpots.

Copper cemented from treating waste, these can be cleaned up and used to cement values from solutions, keeping me from using more copper (that is sellable scrap).

If I have a (used) copper nitrate solution that has some silver and possible PGM, I may save this to dissolve some more copper that could have some silver or gold plate, I will heat this use copper chloride solution with copper plated article, (concentrating solution for less volume later), this will dissolve much of the copper I have added, cement out values, and lower the volume of the copper nitrate solution, (I can also add some oxidizer if needed like hydrogen peroxide or more nitric if needed to get more copper to dissolve in this solution), I can also add sulfuric acid and some copper and distill NO2 gas (bubble into little water and hydrogen peroxide) to make nitric acid from this used copper nitrate solution, or crystallize the copper nitrate, heat the salt to make nitric from the gas generated in reaction.

Sometimes I use my cemented waste metals from a previous waste treatment to cement metals from the next batch of fresh waste acids (saving me adding new metals), or I use a basic or caustic waste solution from treating a previous batch of waste to lower the pH of the new batch of acid waste (helping me save chemical), (this is hard to explain)

Basically do not always think of a used solution, chemical, or byproduct as being a waste, think how can I reuse this in my recovery processes, but also consider are you lowering the purity of metals in this recovery process if I do this with the solution I am working on.

 

[kadriver]

Oneal58:

I just seen your gold button - congratulations!

Man that thing looks like pure gold to me. Way to go!

I know your wife is pleased to see it. Thats over $200 bucks.

Good for you.

You should be able to remelt it without any loss. You can add some borax also, just make sure to pluck the button from the dish before the borax hardens.

I like to use stainless steel tweezers. For me, pliers are too big and bulky.

Also, You mentioned that you had felt ill.

I have developed this fever this afternoon but I don't feel sick, wonder what it could be?

The first time I melted some silver, I did not use a respirator when I was doing the melt.

I remember breathing the smoke from the melt. I had worked around hot metal from welding and brazing when I was in the Navy, so I did not think there was a danger.

The next day I was flat on my back in bed with a flu like illness. I am fairly certain the illness was from breathing those molten silver vapors as I did the melt.

I don't know if molten gold vapors are like molten silver vapors, but I know for a fact that breathing the vapors from melting silver will make a person very sick!

From that time forward, when melting metal, I always wear a 3m respirator with #95 particulate and vapor filters. I have never gotten sick from melting metal since.

Great job on your pure gold button!

kadriver

 

[Oneal58]

Hi Kadriver, and everyone.
Thank you Kadriver for the compliment. I sure hope it's nearly pure. I went through the extra steps to try to make the button pure. I double re-fined, recovering my gold first, inquarting and refined again. I went through the lenghty process of Harold's (making gold pure) steps also. I plan to do this on every batch I run. I want to develope a reputation that I have (nearly) pure gold, without the electroplating process. I just don't want to keep that amount of gold in solution all the time to do the electroplating process. I have a piece of 24K gold antique Jewelry, or it is marked 24K. My button has the same color as this piece of 24K Jewelry that I have. This piece is so soft you can almost roll it up with your fingers. So, I am hoping that I got it at least .995. The pictures I loaded are close to the color but just doesn't capture the true color of the piece.
And just to think that this small button came from crud filled watch band tops and what was left of the powder I got out of the Sulphuric Cell run.
QUESTION 1-Kadriver I burned my filters last night, the way I saw you burn yours. I am surprised at how much value these filters were holding?? After you got through with your burn did you incinerate the values to add to your next batch, or did you try to claim them while they were in the pot? Nitric is not going to touch this recovery so which way is the best way to go here? I know they are very dirty, smut, trash, metals other than gold, Etc;, but this recovery from the filters is mostly gold too? There is no paper left, nothing but smut, dirt, trash, Etc;, but mostly gold?
QUESTION 2-I didn't run the filter papers from the AR filters. I just didn't understand the physics of burning the paper with the gold in solution? With this yellow AR in the filter paper, what will happen to it if it is burned. If the gold does revert back to solids, wouldn't if be so fine that more than likely it would be blown away , just when you added lighter fluid to burn the filters?
Seeing what these filter papers were holding sure has made my mind up that any decant will be done with syringe and hose from now on, no doubt about it. I will filter the decant (while draining with hose) but the first porcess will not be straight to the filters! I am happily surprised that a lot of the work I put into the Sulphuric Cell process has showed up in the filter papers.
KADRIVER, I have been told I have a strange sense of humor. When I referred to having a fever after melting the button but didn't feel sick, I wasn't referring to my health. I meant I had caught the (GOLD FEVER).
Thank you for your concern however! Thank you in advance for your answers! Kadriver, I still got that fever but I can't take my medicine for it today. The wife has laid the Law Down for today, and I quote, "there will be no work on Sunday", "no matter what"!
Oh well, got to go watch the Grand's in their Christmas Play, talk at you later.
Thanks Kadriver,
Oneal

 

[kadriver]

QUESTION 1-Kadriver I burned my filters last night, the way I saw you burn yours. I am surprised at how much value these filters were holding?? After you got through with your burn did you incinerate the values to add to your next batch, or did you try to claim them while they were in the pot?

I didn't catch the meaning of your fever (I do now that you have explained it).

The filter paper that I burned yielded a piece of gold that weighed 0.2 grams. Normally, I would save it and throw it in with my next batch of karat scrap.

But in this case I added the 0.2 gram bead to the gold powder that I had recovered from the batch of gold filled scrap that I processed.

I melted the 0.2 gram piece from the filter paper burn, in with the gold powder from the gold filled scrap recovery because it was from that batch.

That 0.2 gram piece contributed to the total weight of the gold button that I recovered - I think the button weighed 9.2 grams (which blew me away because I was expecting only 5.75 grams).

I usually add the button from the gold filled batch to my next batch of karat scrap. This particular 9.2 gram button went into a batch of karat scrap that I processed this weekend. I finished the gold bar last night - it weighed 3.37 troy ounces.

I posted a picture of the bar in the Gallery. You can look at the picture by going to this link:

http://goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=61&t=12292

QUESTION 2-I didn't run the filter papers from the AR filters. I just didn't understand the physics of burning the paper with the gold in solution? With this yellow AR in the filter paper, what will happen to it if it is burned.

Anything that has that yellow color contains gold. The filter papers from the aqua regia filtering should have no color in them when you get done with the filter operation. If they still appear yellow, then you should rinse the filter with distilled water until all traces of the yellow color is gone from the filter and the water runs clear.

Once all the AuCl is rinsed from the filter paper, I usually just throw mine away. Sometimes there is some silver chloride in the filter paper - but not enough to bother with (this is only my opinion and there may be others who disagree with throwing this filter paper away).

I was very happy to see that you got a nice piece of gold from all of your efforts. Any gold that was lost due to error was the price paid for a top quality refining education! We get better as we gain experience, and there is no substitute for experience.

kadriver

 

[Oneal58]

Thanks Kadriver,
Question 1-So you transfered the gold powder to the melting dish from the pan, what did you do, sweep it out with a little broom? Then melted into button and added it to your main run. What did you do with all the smut left on the pan, does this smut contain any gold? Or just wash it out with dawn detergent, and a scrub pad. I know that using a steel wool pad would not be too smart to use here to clean the pan due to the habbit of these pads leaving pieces of metal behind and possibly scuffing off some of the metal/finish from the pan. I have a plastic looking scrub pad, would this be fine to use to clean the pan.
Question 2- I have a coule of ounces of silver nitrate from the silver drop with copper/urea. Expect to have even more after this last run. I don't want the silver to get too far ahead of me.
I have read many post on how to recover this silver. Also read HOKE'S method, it seems everyone does it a little differently.
QUESTION 2_What process do you use, other than to put into filter, run suction and pour hot water over silver until solution runs clear. Is this the best apporach or you use a little different approach now?
Question 3-What purity can I expect out of this dropped silver nitrate. Is it going to be higher than .925, what I started with? I have watched several videos on this process and also read a lot of material. Just want to touch base with you before I melt the silver. Have watched your video's on pouring your silver, (resulting beautiful shinny silver bars). I see you pour into a graphite mold to do this. Do you still use this method? I would rather not have to polish when melted and poured, as yours look. I know you pre-heat the mold but do you use anything else on the mold prior to heating to keep melted silver from sticking to the graphite mold. I have watched video's that the person had to break the molds apart to release the bar of silver and then had an involved job cleaning the silver bar afterwards. I would rather not go that route. Question 3- I found a suction pump at Wal-Mart. It is 4-D-cell battery operated and when you put your finger over the suction side of the pump it has a pretty good suction. It is light, small, very easy to move around and can be attached to the beaker with little effort. It was only $16.00 if I remember correctly. It was sold to deflate large matresses with, do you think this suction pump would work.
Question 5- I see you had a guage, adjustable suction? Is there a goldilocks point on the suction side you have to reach to get the reaction you want? If so, I could put a slide across the inlet to adjust the suction if I needed to. What do you think?
P.S.,
Just remember Fellows, anyone can ring in to my post regardless of who they are addressed to and I mean any of my post. The more the merrier. I love this forum because of the different points of views. So anyone ring in that may have an idea or see I have overlooked something.
Thanks Kadriver, Thanks to Everyone!
Oneal

 

[The Refiner49er]

If you don't mind, I would like to contribute to the methods I use for gold. Personally I have followed Harold's advice to the letter, and other than when the pregnant solution is filtered and evaporated, I use the same beaker throughout the entire process. This includes dissolution and precipitation, the washing steps with water, dilute HCL and ammonia; and once the Au powder is ready to be dried I simply put the well drained beaker in a warm oven, no more than 190 F and in a few hours it is dry without attendance or issue with steam "popping". If the powder is clean all that is needed is some tapping and sliding around to separate it completely from the vessel, then straight into the melting dish without tools. I have all my glass marked with it's respective tare weight, so it is easy to know what you have after drying. Nothing revolutionary, just a simple system with minimal handling.

John

 

[Harold_V]

Oneal58,
A comment on your double refining.

You made mention that you inquarted for the second refining. Not necessary, and may work against you.

There is one, and only one reason why we inquart. It's as simple as this. Because gold and silver can not be in (acid) solution at the same time, the problems created when one tries are difficult to overcome. That's true unless the ratio of gold/silver is proper. If you try to dissolve gold alloy (any that contain silver), the balance of silver often prevents aqua regia from dissolving the gold because it forms a hard crust around the object. Once that happens, the gold inside is totally isolated from the solution, even when it is heated to boiling. Dissolution stops. That is true of pieces with a heavy cross section, but may not be true of small or thin pieces, that may be fully penetrated before the hard crust can form. In such a case, no problem aside from the less than clean solution that results.

The same problem exists when you attempt to dissolve the base metals from a gold alloy that contains more than 25% gold. In practice, by hard boiling even 40% gold alloy can be leached, assuming it is not of heavy cross section.

So then, the desired target for parting the two metals, gold from silver, is a ratio of 25% gold, 75% silver (or base metals, with a 75% ratio including base metals). That permits dissolution from relatively heavy cross sections of melted (inquarted) alloy. It also yields gold that is honeycombed, and retains its original form. That's a desirable quality, so the gold doesn't disintegrate, making separation from the nitrate solution difficult, or time consuming. When gold is properly inquarted, the resulting nitrate solution will be absent of particulate matter entirely (assuming distilled water is used), so it can be readily poured off so processing can continue. If you go much below 25% gold content, that is no longer true.

There is a bit of non-agreement about this matter. Some prefer to crush the gold, assuming it will be better stripped of base metals and silver, although, in practice, it isn't. It is a waste of time, yielding no benefits so long as you carry out the preliminary digest properly.

So then, what I'd like for you to take away from my position on the soap box is the idea that when you re-refine your gold, do nothing more than wash it well. If you intend to immediately re-refine, there isn't even need to dry. You'll come to understand that the once refined gold will dissolve very quickly, which is far different from gold that has been melted. This second refining, assuming you have NOT added silver (inquartation), offers a second opportunity for traces of silver, which have followed the gold, to be eliminated. To have added silver a second time defeats that purpose.

Harold

 

[kadriver]

Question 1-So you transfered the gold powder to the melting dish from the pan, what did you do, sweep it out with a little broom? Then melted into button and added it to your main run. What did you do with all the smut left on the pan, does this smut contain any gold? Or just wash it out with dawn detergent, and a scrub pad.

When I get to the stage of drying the gold, it is usually quite pure after many washings with distilled water. I have not seen "smut" in my drying pan in a long time. The smut in your drying pan is an indication that the gold powder was not pure. When pure gold powder dries, it leaves no residue - unless it is dirty from not being washed properly.

I have seen "smut" in my gold drying pan in the past though. It would bake onto the corningware casserole dish that I was using to dry the gold powder in. Its been a while, but I think I just washed it out.

When the gold powder is dry, it is very clean and I can loosen any that clings to the bottom of the corningware dish by simply giving the dish a light swirl. The loose particles of gold hit the stuck particles and loosen the clinging pieces. Some may be stuborn, and I use a stainless steel spoon to pull any that sticks away from the dish.

I use the same stainless steel spoon to transfer the gold powder to the melt dish. I use a single melt dish for several melts, then retire it to inquarting when it starts to get dirty looking.

I would not use any sort of metal dish to dry your gold powder in. It seems that this could cause contamination - use a corningware casserole dish with a handle.

Question 2- I have a coule of ounces of silver nitrate from the silver drop with copper/urea

I'm not sure I understand this question. Do you have cemented silver metal that you recovered by putting copper in the solution and cementing the silver out?

If you have powdered silver metal from cementing the silver out of silver nitrate solution with copper, then you can wash the silver powder and melt into a nice button depending on how much you have.

It should be about 98% to 99% pure silver metal, depending on how careful you are about keeping small pieces of copper out of the silver during cementation with copper, and how thoroughly you wash the cemented silver powder.

Or you can wash it and put the silver powder in a jar and save it for later when you set up a silver cell. Then you can melt it into anode bars for your cell.

I melt all my cemented silver into anode bars for my silver cell.

What process do you use, other than to put into filter, run suction and pour hot water over silver until solution runs clear.

In the past, I have put the silver into a large (1000 ml or 2000 ml) beaker and kept adding boiling distilled water and stirring then pouring off the wash water - usually through a filter to catch any powder that tries to escape with the wash water.

I did this over and over until all the color was gone. once the rinse water was clear, I then tested the wash water with some HCl. I take a small (10 or 20 ml) sample of the wash water and add a few drops of HCl to the sample. If there is still silver nitrate being washed out of the silver, then the sample will turn cloudy with silver chloride formation. When the sample of wash water stayed clear, I was confident that the silver powder was clean (of silver nitrate). Then I dry and melt or save the silver powder for later.

I still use a graphite mold I purchased of ebay. I have three identical molds. One is reserved for fine silver only, the next for fine gold only, and the third is for casting anode bars.

These molds have a slight taper to their sides, about 15 degrees if I remember correctly. This tapper allows the bars to slide right on out when you turn it over.

It is light, small, very easy to move around and can be attached to the beaker with little effort. It was only $16.00 if I remember correctly. It was sold to deflate large matresses with, do you think this suction pump would work

I don't have any experience with one of these, but I am guessing it is pretty light duty and probably would not last long working with the acids.

I use an HVAC pump 2.5 cfm I purchased from Harbor Freight. It is a nice heavy duty pump. From what I have read on this forum, the oil has additives that neutralize acids, but the oil must be changed frequently.

I used one for about 15 months before it finally froze up. I confess that I never changed the oil during that entire 15 month period. I just bought a new one and the price had increased from $79 last year to $109 in November 2011.

I plan to change the oil at least every couple of months on this one to see if I can make it last a little longer.

the gage is from a diesel engine test kit also from Harbor freight. It cost $14.95 last year. It has a nice big dial that is easy to read. I have a small petcock type valve right after the gage connection. I can throttle the vacuum going to my flask if I need to.

The amount of suction I need varies from time to time. Sometimes I need just a little vacuum (like when I am washing cemented silver with boiling distilled water). I will turn the vacuum pump on and let it draw down to 10 or 15 inches Hg vacuum.

Other times I peg the gage at full vacuum (such as when filtering AuCl that has silver chloride in with it). Even then, with the vacuum gage pegged out, it can take hours to filter the AuCl.

Having to endure one of these marathon filtering sessions due to silver chloride formation in my AuCl is great incentive to make sure that all the silver bearing liquid is removed (through careful washing) before dissolving the gold.

I hope you can glean some helpful tips from this post.

kadriver

 

[Oneal58]

Hi Everyone, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
Harold, I understand completely, now! I came to my senses, right after I added the silver to inquart that it just didn't make sense? I felt I had high quality, very clean gold and hadn't even ran it through your process of (making gold pure), yet? So why in the world would I put a foreign unwanted material back into the metal I sought after so diligently. Call it beginner's luck or maybe checking and triple checking the amount of silver I put into the gold with the inquarting formula I came through the process fine, this time, but the last time. I must have hit the nail on the head by blind luck, but I came through the inquarting with absolutely beautiful gold. Throughout all the HCL/Ammonia/HCL boils and washes I had a porduct that I could pour off the clear liquid almost void of any moisture and the gold stayed in a clump in the bottom of the beaker, didn't move at all. Easiest thing in the world to decant the liquid. I was expecting to have powder, it was not powder. I mentioned in an earlier post the gold looked granular. It stayed together almost like, (lack of a better phrase) it had magnetic properties? I didn't expect this and thought I had done something wrong? I really didn't feel good about the final product until I had the gold red hot in a ball in a new melting dish and seen it was void of any foreign material. I have watched enough videos on the subject that I seen I didn't have the crud, foreign materials that usually accompanied the gold that others had in their videos. That's why I didn't use any borax, no need for it.
But yes, I understand, no need to inquart. A waste of time and creates a lot more trouble, not to mention that it extends the length of time to refine, considerably.
Thanks Harold, Thanks Everyone! You are appreciated!
Oneal

 

[Oneal58]

Thank you Kadriver, I really do appreciate your help. Oneal58

 

[Oneal58]

Hi Butcher,
How are you today my old budddy, my old friend who's intellect is astounding on chemicals/refining/Etc;. Who has held my hand through the thick and thin, who was always there for me, no matter what!
Now, I know, now you are saying, well what does he want now, he is baiting me up, he wants something? (Southern Slang)?
Well, since you brought it up?
I am getting low on Nitric. I have enough to run maybe 8 more ounces of gold filled but that's about it.
I have watched so many videos on making Nitric that I know them by heart. Have also read a lot on making it yourself.
I know how you are about chemicals and trust your advice beyond compare!
Do you have a favorite process you use to make your Nitric. I have plenty of Potassium Nitrate Fertilizer, I haven't been able to find any Sodium Nitrate and I have looked. I have ammonium nitrate but from what I have been told, it's best to stay away from using it.
Could I impose on you and ask you which process you use while making your Nitric? I have a condenser and have bought the things I needed to condense with. But from what I am seeing I could get by with around 50% nitric, hoping I can get close to this and not have to condense?
If I could get your personal recipie it would very much be appreciated?
Thank you Butcher, if you feel you don't need to do this for some reason, it will be fully understood. I would just rather go with your directions than go with anything I have watched or read somewhere else.
Thanks Butcher,
Oneal58