Rh time period...

Gold Refining Forum

Help Support Gold Refining Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

dmarth10

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 11, 2008
Messages
53
Location
pennsylvania
I just added AR to my recovered pgms from a catalytic converter. There is no gray powder left at the bottom of the bowl. I was wondering how long the Rh takes to dissolve into AR. I heated the solution to about 160 F. Or does this just mean that I recovered no Rh?
 
Rhodium does dissolve in aqua regia to a limited extent--it's more empirical than scientific--depends on temp., conc. of solution, and the surface area of the rhodium.

Palladium goes into cold aqua regia, platinum will not to any real appreciable extent.

Rhodium goes into hot aqua regia in certain circumstances.

If you suspect rhodium in your sponge--first, boil sponge with nitric acid to remove any palladium. Rinse until there is no more yellow solution, and boil again, checking for more yellow. Then take a small sample of your sponge and put it in a tube with concentrated sulfuric acid (18M, d. 1.84) and heat until you see white vapors forming). If it turns brown-red then you likely have rhodium. It is a good qualitative test, but Pd and organics can throw it off.

Lou
 
Since Lou mentioned it, here's what you are looking for with the hot concentrated sulfuric test:

[img:722:1388]http://www.goldrecovery.us/images/rh_test2.jpg[/img]


Thanks again Lou, I really liked this one and have been using it quite a bit since you told me about it.

I use this method for metallic solids suspected of containing Rh.

I use the hot stannous test for solutions suspected of containing Rh.

Here's a positive test for Rh in solution:

[img:640:356]http://www.goldrecovery.us/images/pt_rh_test.jpg[/img]

The vial on the left contains Rh.

Steve
 

<b>This photo is the results I had following Hoke's Platinum experiment using a solution made from electroplating scrap
(pages 105-108 in Hoke's book):</b>

[img:600:206]http://native-americans.org/platinum-test-1.jpg[/img]

<b>Any opinions?</b>

I have have asked a couple of eBay sellers offering advise who had differing opinions about the results of my experiment,
including one that said the percipitated powder will only be red if it is platinum and that Hoke must have been color-blind
because platinum will not percipitate an orange powder as stated in the book.

I first dissolved the base metals in heated Nitric acid made from strong Sulfuric acid (Rooto) and Sodium Nitrate. I realize
this was a mistake because I am sure that I also dissolved some Palladium and other pm but saved my solution to re-work later.

I washed & rinsed the recovered flakes/dust several times, then dissolved them in 4 parts muriatic acid and 1 part clorox, then
added 3 more parts water and percipitated the gold with SMB.

The solution at this point tested a rosey red color with the stannous test so I concentrated the solution to about 1/5 it's
original volume, tested with stannous and received the above pictured result.

I then used 1/2 fl. oz. of the concentrated solution which I had dropped the gold from to conduct Hoke's platinum experiment
by adding heat (not mentioned in Hoke's experiment) and Ammonium Choride to percipitate about a heaping tablespoon of
the orange powder in the photo.

I dried the orange powder then sintered it on porcelain down to a slightly darkish grey powder with a slight hint of red hues,
it produced a loose but spongy powder. (the color of the sintered material is much more grey under good light than it shows in
the picture and does not match the color of the actual sintered powder very well but the color of the swatch and the
percipitated orange powder are a close color match)

I then dissolved a small amount of the grey sponge in an AR solution made from Sodium Nitrate and Muriatic acid, I heated it
to dissolve the grey sponge into solution and then used the stannous cloride test and it showed a light rosey red colored
stain (not pictured).

I could use some help on this because I have a fairly large batch of the concentrated solution (about 80 fl. oz). I think the
solution I used in the experiment may still contain a little Gold, some Platinum group metals and I do not want to miss any values.

Note: The enlarged text is not an attempt to shout, It is just easier to read for some of us :)

<b>Any comments or advise is appreciated.</b>
 
Welcome to the forum!! You seem to have a good idea of what you're aiming to do. Unfortunately, it seems as if some of the eBay people are trying to keep a good man down, or maybe they just don't know what they're talking about :p So relax, perhaps make yourself a strong eggnog, take a break and we'll go over this. :)

buffa1o1 said:
I have have asked a couple of eBay sellers offering advise who had differing opinions about the results of my experiment,
including one that said the percipitated powder will only be red if it is platinum and that Hoke must have been color-blind
because platinum will not percipitate an orange powder as stated in the book.

I've precipitated a goodly amount of platinum, and if you're doing it right, and you're precipitating with ammonium chloride solution, then you will be seeing a canary yellow precipitate. This indicates that everything has gone as well as it could and you've made a very pure precipitate of ammonium hexachloroplatinate. If it is slightly orange, it's passable stuff, but it should still be refined once more. If it's pumpkin orange bordering on orange-red, that usually indicates that there's significant Pd contamination, so try again. Palladium, when precipitated out as ammonium hexachloropalladate, is brick red wet and will take a nice pretty red color as it dries.

buffa1o1 said:
I first dissolved the base metals in heated Nitric acid made from strong Sulfuric acid (Rooto) and Sodium Nitrate. I realize
this was a mistake because I am sure that I also dissolved some Palladium and other pm but saved my solution to re-work later.

Sulfuric acid does attack palladium, especially when it is in finely divided or thin foil form. So too does your nitric acid. If your solution went quite brown in appearance, then you probably had a lot of Pd in there, if you dilute it you will see a rich yellow color. Now be careful here, Pd ion in solution has a very intense yellow coloration, so intense that it looks brown when concentrated. Ferric nitrate (iron III) can also have a yellow color in acid solution, but it's kind of bland. The best way to know the difference is to dissolve iron in nitric and dissolve Pd in nitric, one has a much richer yellow. Make sure you get a stannous test and look for the green Pd!

buffa1o1 said:
I washed & rinsed the recovered flakes/dust several times, then dissolved them in 4 parts muriatic acid and 1 part clorox, then
added 3 more parts water and percipitated the gold with SMB.

Excess water isn't usually a good thing, especially if you're going after an element that's just a trace. Keep your solutions concentrated. I'm assuming you had a positive gold stannous test (which can be difficult to ascertain with other things in there).

buffa1o1 said:
The solution at this point tested a rosey red color with the stannous test so I concentrated the solution to about 1/5 it's
original volume, tested with stannous and received the above pictured result.

Good, good! Concentrate it!

buffa1o1 said:
I then used 1/2 fl. oz. of the concentrated solution which I had dropped the gold from to conduct Hoke's platinum experiment
by adding heat (not mentioned in Hoke's experiment) and Ammonium Choride to percipitate about a heaping tablespoon of
the orange powder in the photo.


I dried the orange powder then sintered it on porcelain down to a slightly darkish grey powder with a slight hint of red hues,
it produced a loose but spongy powder. (the color of the sintered material is much more grey under good light than it shows in
the picture and does not match the color of the actual sintered powder very well but the color of the swatch and the
percipitated orange powder are a close color match)

Ok, you're doing this mostly right. After the heat though, you should cool it in an ice bath. Once your Pt has precipitated, filter it and rinse with ice cold saturated ammonium chloride solution. Now look at the filtrate (the liquid, not the precipitate) and see if it has any residual yellow color to it; if it is faint, then there's probably not that much Pt left in it, but you can do a stannous test against standard solutions of known concentration to get a good guestimate. If you're going for broke and don't care about the other metals beside Pt in the filtrate, you can get all of the last Pt group out of that solution by cementing with zinc and boiling that reduction in HCl to remove excess zinc. That powder can then be tossed into the next batch you refine.

Your orange powder should've done some weird things when you heated it, like turning dark and releasing lots of white smoke (ammonium chloride). You have to go low and slow with the heat or you can gas phase transport your money into thin air. IF there's a slight reddish hint left to your reduced platinum sponge, then you need to heat it again til it's gone, or boil in nitric and see if there's any color change. If there is, then you didn't eliminate all of the base metals. This material, properly reduced should be a heavy gray sponge.

buffa1o1 said:
I then dissolved a small amount of the grey sponge in an AR solution made from Sodium Nitrate and Muriatic acid, I heated it
to dissolve the grey sponge into solution and then used the stannous chloride test and it showed a light rosey red colored
stain (not pictured).

This was good, but you should've first boiled in hydrochloric (muriatic acid) or in nitric to remove any crap that might have been dragged down. It's an additional purification step. Then you give it the 'ol aqua regia treatment and get a nice dark red solution.

buffa1o1 said:
I could use some help on this because I have a fairly large batch of the concentrated solution (about 80 fl. oz). I think the
solution I used in the experiment may still contain a little Gold, some Platinum group metals and I do not want to miss any values.

80 fluid ounces of this? Someone will be having a very nice Christmas! Just make sure you know what concentrated means when you're dealing with the PGMs, to me, conc. is over 10 troy ounces per liter of solution.
All in all, not a bad shot at this.

buffa1o1 said:
Note: The enlarged text is not an attempt to shout, It is just easier to read for some of us :)

<b>Any comments or advise is appreciated.</b>

As for the font, no big deal!

The only thing that bugged me is percipitated. It's precipitated. I swear I'm not a grammar Nazi.

Again, welcome to the forum. I hope I helped you out. Keep the pictures coming and we'll be sure to make sure you're doing this right.

So far, it seems like you've got most of it quite well.

Happy Holidays,
Lou

EDIT: Just curious, but did you use more ammonium chloride than you were supposed to? The precipitate looks O.K color wise, but not physically: I've seen some people here use too much ammonium chloride and get different crystals.
 
<b>Awesome reply Lou</b> 8) I appreciate the encouragement and offer to help me get this done right. I wil try to make my contributions to the forum positive, constructive, and use my spell checker :oops:. I knew it was precipitate but I'm part indian and we always leave one mistake in our work to show we are not perfect like the Creator! :lol: Had you going there, huh?

I have checked out several sites and this forum has a lot of expert information to find once you learn to navigate the search features. Great website!
if you're doing it right, and you're precipitating with ammonium chloride solution, then you will be seeing a canary yellow precipitate.
My son corrected me that the dried precipitate is very much a canary yellow and not orange as I stated. I did notice that when I heated the solution in the beaker, I got it a little too hot at one point and the solution that dried on the beaker formed 2-3 tiny but very red specks at the top of the solution which went back into solution as I swirled the solution around. I suspected at the time that it was pd contamination and decided to make my previous post to get some tips.

By your description of what the precipitate color should be and my son's assessment of the color, I think the contamination is not too bad but I do plan on very carefully processing it again after I feel confident in my knowledge & skills at following correct procedure.
I'm assuming you had a positive gold stannous test.
As you stated, it was a difficult stannous test but and it did show some purple and I trusted the seller who stated it did contain some gold.
you should cool it in an ice bath. Once your Pt has precipitated, filter it and rinse with ice cold saturated ammonium chloride solution.
I did not cool it in the ice bath as you stated and that is probably why the solution is still a nice yellow color and it still shows a pretty, rosey colored stain with the stannous test.
Your orange powder should've done some weird things when you heated it
I heated the orange powder low & slow on a hotplate until it barely fumed a white smoke and it went through some wierd phases as you described, it took about 2 hours or more at this temperature to turn it all into the grey powder.
80 fluid ounces of this? Someone will be having a very nice Christmas!
I forgot to mention that I also caught a nice pile of very white, silver colored metal that did not dissolve in the hcl cl solution. I tested a dab of this in boiling sulpuric acid and the smaller particles dissolved turning the solution a reddish brown making me suspect it is rhodium. I definately won't have this worked out by Christmas but with a little guidance, I may have a long awaited payday soon :wink:
Just curious, but did you use more ammonium chloride than you were supposed to? The precipitate looks O.K color wise, but not physically: I've seen some people here use too much ammonium chloride and get different crystals.
The physical traits were altered after I dried it because I crushed it using a safety razor blade figuring it would sinter easier if the clumps were broken down some.

I did use more ammonium chloride saturated solution than Hoke called for but it was very slow to start precipitation so I kept adding it until it showed signs of precipitation. At this point I had added all of the ammonium chloride in the saturated solution Hoke's experiment called for which was supposed to be enough to do the rinse and I was forced to make up more to wash, rinse and filter the orange powder. As the solution cooled, more and more percipitate formed, I wish I had done the ice bath now. :roll:

I will follow your advise and I will post more images as I progress. Thanks again!
 
Hi Randy:

I purchased a small box of scrap that the seller said came from his grandfather's estate. He said his grandfather had kept this scrap for many years and that the contents were used in some part of the plating process at a shut-down Gold, Platinum & Rhodium plating plant. Under the thick coat of pm plating were just some tangled & randomly bent stainless steel wires.

I hope this helps,
Scott
 
Photo's of Platinum in precipitation using Hoke's Platinum experiment
(pages 105-108 in Hoke's book):


[img:293:300]http://shillingstad.com/gold-forum/100_1110-a.jpg[/img][img:400:300]http://shillingstad.com/gold-forum/100_1113-a.jpg[/img][img:225:300]http://shillingstad.com/gold-forum/100_1115-a.jpg[/img]

[img:351:297]http://shillingstad.com/gold-forum/100_1116-a.jpg[/img][img:306:300]http://shillingstad.com/gold-forum/100_1119-a.jpg[/img]

Click on image for a close-up.
Just a thought, but are you sure those wires are just stainless and not pt/rh thermocouples?
Thanks Randy! I did more tests and they are only stainless steel wires.
 
Greetings and my thanks for the open and assistive format here. I'm unsure of whether or not this thread is open but I'm going to test the water.
Long to short: collected cat conv. Removed matrix. Crushed and halogen stripped for 2 weeks at STP and started pulling and adjusting leach solution until I figured color was so faint it was over 90%. Dropped everything with zinc. Ended up with a strange non homogenous mix of light/dark metal sponge and a purple metallic glass as seen magnified 100x. Filtered, rinsed w H20, dried until all collected. Final solution after zn was a medium green fluid with a tinge of real to it. Checked for complexation with I2 solid dissolution and some precipitate form identical to previous zn solids. Pulled and combined with a small sample of earlier stock. To both the main zn precipitant was then cleared of lower metals (not many as everything was glass and plastic) to get a denser mix of the metal matrix with light, dark and purplish metal glass. The other mixed matrix sat and dried. A sheen of highly reflective metal formed on the surface as it dried.


To both solids I added HCl and KNO3 to make poor Joes AR. The main body formed a thick orange powder at the bottom that froze the spin vane in place. The second iodide mixed sample slowly formed the AR with N2O4 production and it dissolved and formed the dark orange precipitate. My question is this...


What is the purple metallic crystalline "glass"? It forms only under descending acid concentration as precipitation with zinc occurs after all the gray metals have dropped.

I will be filtering and rinsing the products shortly and attempting to drop the metals and convert by firing in sealed graphite flash heated via thermite.
 
Greetings and my thanks for the open and assistive format here. I'm unsure of whether or not this thread is open but I'm going to test the water.
Long to short: collected cat conv. Removed matrix. Crushed and halogen stripped for 2 weeks at STP and started pulling and adjusting leach solution until I figured color was so faint it was over 90%. Dropped everything with zinc. Ended up with a strange non homogenous mix of light/dark metal sponge and a purple metallic glass as seen magnified 100x. Filtered, rinsed w H20, dried until all collected. Final solution after zn was a medium green fluid with a tinge of real to it. Checked for complexation with I2 solid dissolution and some precipitate form identical to previous zn solids. Pulled and combined with a small sample of earlier stock. To both the main zn precipitant was then cleared of lower metals (not many as everything was glass and plastic) to get a denser mix of the metal matrix with light, dark and purplish metal glass. The other mixed matrix sat and dried. A sheen of highly reflective metal formed on the surface as it dried.


To both solids I added HCl and KNO3 to make poor Joes AR. The main body formed a thick orange powder at the bottom that froze the spin vane in place. The second iodide mixed sample slowly formed the AR with N2O4 production and it dissolved and formed the dark orange precipitate. My question is this...


What is the purple metallic crystalline "glass"? It forms only under descending acid concentration as precipitation with zinc occurs after all the gray metals have dropped.

I will be filtering and rinsing the products shortly and attempting to drop the metals and convert by firing in sealed graphite flash heated via thermite.
First welcome to us.

Next, stop what you are doing now.
Where did you find these procedures?

It seems like you are mixing anything and everything on a whim.
Salts of PGMs are extremely toxic.

After you have explained each step, why you are doing them and what you expect to accomplish.
We can start advising on what to do to get out of what you have now.

Just a heads up, hydro metallurgical treatment of cats are not a good way to go.
It will "always" be incomplete and create a lot of waste which is expensive to treat for disposal.

We ask our new members to do 3 things.
1. Read C.M. Hokes book on refining jewelers scrap, it gives an easy introduction to the most important chemistry regarding refining.
It is free here on the forum: Screen Readable Copy of Hoke's Book
2. Then read the safety section of the forum: Safety
3. And then read about "Dealing with waste" in the forum: Dealing with Waste

Suggested reading: The Library

Forum rules : https://goldrefiningforum.com/threads/gold-refining-forum-rules.31182/post-327766
 
Greetings and my thanks for the open and assistive format here. I'm unsure of whether or not this thread is open but I'm going to test the water.
Long to short: collected cat conv. Removed matrix. Crushed and halogen stripped for 2 weeks at STP and started pulling and adjusting leach solution until I figured color was so faint it was over 90%. Dropped everything with zinc. Ended up with a strange non homogenous mix of light/dark metal sponge and a purple metallic glass as seen magnified 100x. Filtered, rinsed w H20, dried until all collected. Final solution after zn was a medium green fluid with a tinge of real to it. Checked for complexation with I2 solid dissolution and some precipitate form identical to previous zn solids. Pulled and combined with a small sample of earlier stock. To both the main zn precipitant was then cleared of lower metals (not many as everything was glass and plastic) to get a denser mix of the metal matrix with light, dark and purplish metal glass. The other mixed matrix sat and dried. A sheen of highly reflective metal formed on the surface as it dried.


To both solids I added HCl and KNO3 to make poor Joes AR. The main body formed a thick orange powder at the bottom that froze the spin vane in place. The second iodide mixed sample slowly formed the AR with N2O4 production and it dissolved and formed the dark orange precipitate. My question is this...


What is the purple metallic crystalline "glass"? It forms only under descending acid concentration as precipitation with zinc occurs after all the gray metals have dropped.

I will be filtering and rinsing the products shortly and attempting to drop the metals and convert by firing in sealed graphite flash heated via thermite.
Hi
few things to note:

1. Bake the cats in reducing atmosphere at least at red hot temperatures, this will convert PGM oxides to metals and enable thorough leaching. Otherwise you will loose values and left them unleached.
2. Never crush honeycomb, this will kill the circulation of the fresh leach liquid through the matrix and you will slow the process very significantly.
3. What is metal glass ? I bet it isn´t the amorphous metal formed by extremely fast melt cooling :D that is the stuff what is actually called metal glass. Use correct terms, otherwise the comunication would be cumbersome.
4. Do not melt Rh in graphite. otherwise you will be sawing it out of the crucible :) BTW, I doubt you can reach high enough temperatures for time needed just by sticking crucible to burning thermite. I think it would be good title for YouTube "educational" video, but in real world you want the things to be working for you.

Rh is (according to my limited knowledge) is torch melted or melted in induction furnance, using magnesia crucibles, as graphite wreck the Rh and carbides make it stick to the crucible very badly. I personally melted high Rh alloys (80+% Rh + other PGMs) only two times in my life. It was by torch in MgO, went relatively OK.
Collect enough of that stuff to make some visible bead is very hard... Rh is scarce :)

PS: Post pictures, it significantly rises the chances to get help :)
 
I
First welcome to us.

Next, stop what you are doing now.
Where did you find these procedures?

It seems like you are mixing anything and everything on a whim.
Salts of PGMs are extremely toxic.

After you have explained each step, why you are doing them and what you expect to accomplish.
We can start advising on what to do to get out of what you have now.

Just a heads up, hydro metallurgical treatment of cats are not a good way to go.
It will "always" be incomplete and create a lot of waste which is expensive to treat for disposal.

We ask our new members to do 3 things.
1. Read C.M. Hokes book on refining jewelers scrap, it gives an easy introduction to the most important chemistry regarding refining.
It is free here on the forum: Screen Readable Copy of Hoke's Book
2. Then read the safety section of the forum: Safety
3. And then read about "Dealing with waste" in the forum: Dealing with Waste

Suggested reading: The Library

Forum rules : https://goldrefiningforum.com/threads/gold-refining-forum-rules.31182/post-327766
I appreciate the concern but I can assure you I'm not an idiot. The procedure is one of development. I have been a chemist for more than a few years. I'm well aware of the salt toxicities, have emergency treatments, proper safety gear and vented secondary containment as well as scrubbed fume extraction.


Now, of course I wouldn't have read Hoke text for two reasons... One I just got here and was simply asking a bit of insight. Two, upon scanning the literature Hoke would seem a bit odd of a name like some joke text meant to throw someone off. No insult intended to the author. As I now know otherwise I will peruse it no problem.


I'm quite well aware of at least 6 other methodologies that simply are two expensive when we are talking about a few ounces.

And as far as disposal goes i have developed a procedure of encapsulment that neutralizes and locks single thru quaternary metallic ions and complexes that even the EPA leach tests do not register metals from by ICP-MS or GFAAS.

I appreciate your diligence for safety. You may stand down now. The experimentation with I2 was simply to see if the there was still complexation and whether or not the Iodine, if it exchanged with chlorine, would produce a precipitate instead of remain in solution and as such the iodine then rendering it viable for organic extraction by something more economical.

I wasn't actually asking much in the way of advice. I was wondering if anyone knew what this stuff is.

Do not let my screen name fool you. I have held certifications by AIHA, EPA, HUD, OSHA, and the CalDHS. I have handled systems responsible for metric tons of waste removal. I have also had the sorrow of having to figure out the route of lead poisoning and slow death of a 7 month old child while still in the lab. I won't be so bold as to say I know what I'm doing for to assert such a thing is prelude to folly. But I do know what not to do.


And no I don't believe in eternal life by mercurial ingestion.



Laugh.... That was funny.
 
This stuff has me a bit curious is all.

I do not have the equipment to roast properly and the process at that end is done unless I must go back into the solids for the Rhodium. However, examination in the microscope shows that the wash coats are gone from the homogenated matrices. No sign of metals. So unless I got some strange form of quantum tunneling at STP or the metal evaporated at STP I'm fairly certain that I got the majority of the PGMs there was a final leaching with H2O2 under pressurized conditions, again at STP externally that I forgot to mention.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20230516_154450.jpg
    2.5 MB · Views: 0
Hi
few things to note:

1. Bake the cats in reducing atmosphere at least at red hot temperatures, this will convert PGM oxides to metals and enable thorough leaching. Otherwise you will loose values and left them unleached.
2. Never crush honeycomb, this will kill the circulation of the fresh leach liquid through the matrix and you will slow the process very significantly.
3. What is metal glass ? I bet it isn´t the amorphous metal formed by extremely fast melt cooling :D that is the stuff what is actually called metal glass. Use correct terms, otherwise the comunication would be cumbersome.
4. Do not melt Rh in graphite. otherwise you will be sawing it out of the crucible :) BTW, I doubt you can reach high enough temperatures for time needed just by sticking crucible to burning thermite. I think it would be good title for YouTube "educational" video, but in real world you want the things to be working for you.

Rh is (according to my limited knowledge) is torch melted or melted in induction furnance, using magnesia crucibles, as graphite wreck the Rh and carbides make it stick to the crucible very badly. I personally melted high Rh alloys (80+% Rh + other PGMs) only two times in my life. It was by torch in MgO, went relatively OK.
Collect enough of that stuff to make some visible bead is very hard... Rh is scarce :)

PS: Post pictures, it significantly rises the chances to get help :)
Thank you for the advice. I have made and deployed a number of different thermite compositions and the standard "rust" mix hits 2600 degrees. It is primarily for the palladium that must be melted without oxygen that I came up with the graphite stack. It is a series of plates with cutouts and molds interspersed where the powder is pressed in and the stack made so the orientation always has one 5 millimeter plate boundary between the voids where the sintering and melting occurs. It is made to be a disposable and inexpensive way to produce ingots or coins and small bars so the collected metal is more easily scanned by XRF and sold. The graphite plates are lapped with grit up to cerium oxide to ensure a gas right seal when bolted together. It is implanted in a container of refractive glass and fire mortar and remote ignition forces the mix to be burned top down so the unit is fully exposed to the heat, insulated from cooling too quick and is allowed to bob to the surface since heat rises and graphite floats in thermitic liquids. That was a fun discovery.

I know the state of technology ways of doing things. I just prefer to fully walk in the footsteps of classical alchemysts and physicists because without that character and wonder it's simply not as much fun. That's all. So im old school.... Sue me. Repeating the old experiments of the ancients gives insights that no college of this day can teach.


Anyway. That's my experimental fusion technique that heats to 2600 C and keeps out oxygen. I'm not fond of losing my metal to the atmosphere.
 
Hi
few things to note:

1. Bake the cats in reducing atmosphere at least at red hot temperatures, this will convert PGM oxides to metals and enable thorough leaching. Otherwise you will loose values and left them unleached.
2. Never crush honeycomb, this will kill the circulation of the fresh leach liquid through the matrix and you will slow the process very significantly.
3. What is metal glass ? I bet it isn´t the amorphous metal formed by extremely fast melt cooling :D that is the stuff what is actually called metal glass. Use correct terms, otherwise the comunication would be cumbersome.
4. Do not melt Rh in graphite. otherwise you will be sawing it out of the crucible :) BTW, I doubt you can reach high enough temperatures for time needed just by sticking crucible to burning thermite. I think it would be good title for YouTube "educational" video, but in real world you want the things to be working for you.

Rh is (according to my limited knowledge) is torch melted or melted in induction furnance, using magnesia crucibles, as graphite wreck the Rh and carbides make it stick to the crucible very badly. I personally melted high Rh alloys (80+% Rh + other PGMs) only two times in my life. It was by torch in MgO, went relatively OK.
Collect enough of that stuff to make some visible bead is very hard... Rh is scarce :)

PS: Post pictures, it significantly rises the chances to get help :)
And are you saying that PGM oxides are not subject to leaching conditions by saturated diatomic halogens in solution?

Then maybe I should go back thru that matrix. Huh. Will have to consult my Merck.
 
Thank you for the advice. I have made and deployed a number of different thermite compositions and the standard "rust" mix hits 2600 degrees. It is primarily for the palladium that must be melted without oxygen that I came up with the graphite stack. It is a series of plates with cutouts and molds interspersed where the powder is pressed in and the stack made so the orientation always has one 5 millimeter plate boundary between the voids where the sintering and melting occurs. It is made to be a disposable and inexpensive way to produce ingots or coins and small bars so the collected metal is more easily scanned by XRF and sold. The graphite plates are lapped with grit up to cerium oxide to ensure a gas right seal when bolted together. It is implanted in a container of refractive glass and fire mortar and remote ignition forces the mix to be burned top down so the unit is fully exposed to the heat, insulated from cooling too quick and is allowed to bob to the surface since heat rises and graphite floats in thermitic liquids. That was a fun discovery.

I know the state of technology ways of doing things. I just prefer to fully walk in the footsteps of classical alchemysts and physicists because without that character and wonder it's simply not as much fun. That's all. So im old school.... Sue me. Repeating the old experiments of the ancients gives insights that no college of this day can teach.


Anyway. That's my experimental fusion technique that heats to 2600 C and keeps out oxygen. I'm not fond of losing my metal to the atmosphere.
This is very interesting way of performing the actual melt. I like the concept. Probably, I won´t do this on my own, but if it works for you, then why not. Certainly cheaper than induction furnance, but also certainly more laborious than torch melting.

By the way, with platinum metals, evaporative loss during melting isn´t that high, if you aren´t overheating it to extreme temperatures. Palladium can be vaporized to some minimal extent, but you will need to overheat it way way too much. What I found not so good is that you cannot watch and stir the charge when melting.
 
And are you saying that PGM oxides are not subject to leaching conditions by saturated diatomic halogens in solution?

Then maybe I should go back thru that matrix. Huh. Will have to consult my Merck.
Yup. Many articles are written issuing the leaching in science literature. You never have complete leaching, and this is one of very reasons why.

That is why catalytic converters are pyrometallurgically processed to get highest recoveries. It is also much much quicker.
 
Back
Top