Scrap Find issue

[Yggdrasil]

Pyrolizing done right will produce no to little smoke, you recycle the gases back into the flames. When no more combustible gases come out, one opens the container and let it be kept red glowing in air until completely white from ash. There are plenty drawings and info on the forum.

AP is made from HCl and corroded copper or HCl and a drop or two Hydrogenperoxide.

 

[Martijn]

is their a personal message option here?

 

[Alondro]

Drop the Urea in your garden and use Sulfamic acid in stead.
By the way I hope you are not planning to refine in a populated are without fume scrubbing.
Less fumes/smoke in acids but they are corrosive and toxic.

Another thing, do not put the ram sticks in AR, use Copper Chloride etch called AP.
When you dissolve the Gold foils left you can do it without any Nitric.
HCl/Peroxide or HCl/Bleach will do the job.
No need for denoxing after.

But as said before most of the gold are in the chips, and they need incinerating.
If you pyrolize first it will be as good as smokeless.

Yeah, I'll always go with the HCl-bleach, myself. Bleach is so cheap when you buy store brands, even cheaper than peroxide. And it's more stable than peroxide, so it lasts longer in storage. The test drops I've gotten with it after boiling for a bit to blow off the excess chlorine (and concentrate the gold solution a bit more, since adding washes dilutes it) have been fantastic.

I've got just over 5 grams of excellent-looking light-brown gold powder from 2 small runs of a little over a pound of high-grade bits each, and am now on to a larger batch of 5 lbs of gold fingers, high-grade pins, and GF watch band segments.

 

[Alondro]

Pyrolizing done right will produce no to little smoke, you recycle the gases back into the flames. When no more combustible gases come out, one opens the container and let it be kept red glowing in air until completely white from ash. There are plenty drawings and info on the forum.

AP is made from HCl and corroded copper or HCl and a drop or two Hydrogenperoxide.

I found a simple cost-free method of burning up to 5 pounds of chips over a simple wood fire, using a fine steel mesh with the chips laid out in a layer about 2 feet off the ground, held in place with stacked brick walls. Build your pile of slender pieces of dry wood underneath in a 'log cabin' campfire setup, then sprinkle either paraffin or other wax over the chips, OR frying oil that's been used at least 3 times. Then light it up! The chips burn at an intensely high heat that the plastics practically vaporize into bright flame. The whole thing burns pretty thoroughly in a mere 15-20 minutes (sometimes the chips on the edges of the screen don't, and might need more wax or oil). Crush down the embers so you can slip a thin sheet of scrap steel (easily obtained from a trashed fridge, washing machine, etc) underneath the screen to catch anything that falls through as it cools, the chips burn so completely once you get the nuances of the burn just right, that they will fall apart at the slightest touch.

If you do a lot of chips, you can prop up the steel mesh with a few lengths of rebar to keep the mesh from sagging as it gets orange-yellow hot in the middle. The rebar won't get in the way of the flame.

Paraffin is best, as there's no smoke at all when the fire gets going. Used fry oil will make some smoke, but not too much when you get the fire lay built right. I've gotten wood fires with this setup up to a bit beyond copper's melting point with nothing more than the correct wood arrangement and airflow. You don't want it THAT hot for this purpose, but know that it's achievable!

In my first brick wood-fired kiln decades ago, I managed to melt low-grade steel pipe used for playground equipment back in those days. That rather came as a shock, since I had planned to use it as a tall crucible for melting aluminum. Found a cast-iron pipe and used that instead!

 

[swaminair]

Yeah, I'll always go with the HCl-bleach, myself. Bleach is so cheap when you buy store brands, even cheaper than peroxide. And it's more stable than peroxide, so it lasts longer in storage. The test drops I've gotten with it after boiling for a bit to blow off the excess chlorine (and concentrate the gold solution a bit more, since adding washes dilutes it) have been fantastic.

I've got just over 5 grams of excellent-looking light-brown gold powder from 2 small runs of a little over a pound of high-grade bits each, and am now on to a larger batch of 5 lbs of gold fingers, high-grade pins, and GF watch band segments.

View attachment 51599

Good luck for your hardship get a pile of gold,wish you a good yield.
Thanks for refining ideas.

 

[swaminair]

I found a simple cost-free method of burning up to 5 pounds of chips over a simple wood fire, using a fine steel mesh with the chips laid out in a layer about 2 feet off the ground, held in place with stacked brick walls. Build your pile of slender pieces of dry wood underneath in a 'log cabin' campfire setup, then sprinkle either paraffin or other wax over the chips, OR frying oil that's been used at least 3 times. Then light it up! The chips burn at an intensely high heat that the plastics practically vaporize into bright flame. The whole thing burns pretty thoroughly in a mere 15-20 minutes (sometimes the chips on the edges of the screen don't, and might need more wax or oil). Crush down the embers so you can slip a thin sheet of scrap steel (easily obtained from a trashed fridge, washing machine, etc) underneath the screen to catch anything that falls through as it cools, the chips burn so completely once you get the nuances of the burn just right, that they will fall apart at the slightest touch.

If you do a lot of chips, you can prop up the steel mesh with a few lengths of rebar to keep the mesh from sagging as it gets orange-yellow hot in the middle. The rebar won't get in the way of the flame.

Paraffin is best, as there's no smoke at all when the fire gets going. Used fry oil will make some smoke, but not too much when you get the fire lay built right. I've gotten wood fires with this setup up to a bit beyond copper's melting point with nothing more than the correct wood arrangement and airflow. You don't want it THAT hot for this purpose, but know that it's achievable!

In my first brick wood-fired kiln decades ago, I managed to melt low-grade steel pipe used for playground equipment back in those days. That rather came as a shock, since I had planned to use it as a tall crucible for melting aluminum. Found a cast-iron pipe and used that instead!

Thanks for the idea,This idea is good but hard to build in a living area. small but will try as no fumes then why not work on it. paraffin is of moderate price and we can get it back too,there is one wax for gold manufacturing units which are far cheaper than paraffin.goldsmiths use that from retail stores, usually sold by utensil sellers like Eversilver sellers.
This method used in a mud pot named pulverization is used for medicines in traditional preparations.you revoked many old memories about the stuff thank you mate.

THIS IS A BEAUTIFUL FORUM OF GOOD MEMBERS. THANKS A LOT.

 

[swaminair]

View attachment 51598

Thank you mate,I thought inbox sort of thing here. okay for sure I will use it again thank you for sparing your precious time.

 

[Yggdrasil]

Thanks for the idea,This idea is good but hard to build in a living area. small but will try as no fumes then why not work on it. paraffin is of moderate price and we can get it back too,there is one wax for gold manufacturing units which are far cheaper than paraffin.goldsmiths use that from retail stores, usually sold by utensil sellers like Eversilver sellers.
This method used in a mud pot named pulverization is used for medicines in traditional preparations.you revoked many old memories about the stuff thank you mate.

THIS IS A BEAUTIFUL FORUM OF GOOD MEMBERS. THANKS A LOT.

You can not refine anything inside a house where people live, unless you have a proper fume hood.
Even then it should not be done.
The fumes will corrode any and all metal objects and some fumes are toxic and may accumulate in the body of living beings over time.
If this is your situation you should seriously reconsider your plan.

 

[Yggdrasil]

I found a simple cost-free method of burning up to 5 pounds of chips over a simple wood fire, using a fine steel mesh with the chips laid out in a layer about 2 feet off the ground, held in place with stacked brick walls. Build your pile of slender pieces of dry wood underneath in a 'log cabin' campfire setup, then sprinkle either paraffin or other wax over the chips, OR frying oil that's been used at least 3 times. Then light it up! The chips burn at an intensely high heat that the plastics practically vaporize into bright flame. The whole thing burns pretty thoroughly in a mere 15-20 minutes (sometimes the chips on the edges of the screen don't, and might need more wax or oil). Crush down the embers so you can slip a thin sheet of scrap steel (easily obtained from a trashed fridge, washing machine, etc) underneath the screen to catch anything that falls through as it cools, the chips burn so completely once you get the nuances of the burn just right, that they will fall apart at the slightest touch.

If you do a lot of chips, you can prop up the steel mesh with a few lengths of rebar to keep the mesh from sagging as it gets orange-yellow hot in the middle. The rebar won't get in the way of the flame.

Paraffin is best, as there's no smoke at all when the fire gets going. Used fry oil will make some smoke, but not too much when you get the fire lay built right. I've gotten wood fires with this setup up to a bit beyond copper's melting point with nothing more than the correct wood arrangement and airflow. You don't want it THAT hot for this purpose, but know that it's achievable!

In my first brick wood-fired kiln decades ago, I managed to melt low-grade steel pipe used for playground equipment back in those days. That rather came as a shock, since I had planned to use it as a tall crucible for melting aluminum. Found a cast-iron pipe and used that instead!

Alondro
This is not pyrolizing, it is incinerating and has the drawback that it will not fully burn many of the toxic fumes that come off the epoxies from the chips.
When pyrolizing one should bubble the off gases through a water trap to remove toxic non burning substances before the gases gos to after burning in the primary fire.

 

[Alondro]

Alondro
This is not pyrolizing, it is incinerating and has the drawback that it will not fully burn many of the toxic fumes that come off the epoxies from the chips.
When pyrolizing one should bubble the off gases through a water trap to remove toxic non burning substances before the gases gos to after burning in the primary fire.

It's not really an issue when outside. The HCN released by some of the epoxy autoignites at 1000F, and the heat of this fire exceeds that by several hundred degrees, thus it is destroyed. The other commonly released gasses are HCl and HBr, but these are only dangerous in an enclosed space or if you're basically over the fire breathing in the hot rising gases... which is a bad thing to do with any fire.

If one is processing LARGE amounts of chips, say more than 10 pounds at a time, my method isn't practical, since the area of steel screen needed to spread them out into a single layer would be quite large. And it would require quite a large bonfire. Basically, it needs a square foot of screen per pound of chips. 10 pounds would be 10 square feet. That's already a little over 3 x 3 feet.

This method works for small amounts of chips in a rural area.

I wouldn't do any high-heat techniques in an enclosed space, other than a proper laboratory or chemical plant. Simply too risky. Vents can break down if not constructed of the right chemical-resistant materials.

And to do all that means a lot of investment, meaning it's only practical when one is performing at least small-industry level refining.

 

[Yggdrasil]

It's not really an issue when outside. The HCN released by some of the epoxy autoignites at 1000F, and the heat of this fire exceeds that by several hundred degrees, thus it is destroyed. The other commonly released gasses are HCl and HBr, but these are only dangerous in an enclosed space or if you're basically over the fire breathing in the hot rising gases... which is a bad thing to do with any fire.

If one is processing LARGE amounts of chips, say more than 10 pounds at a time, my method isn't practical, since the area of steel screen needed to spread them out into a single layer would be quite large. And it would require quite a large bonfire. Basically, it needs a square foot of screen per pound of chips. 10 pounds would be 10 square feet. That's already a little over 3 x 3 feet.

This method works for small amounts of chips in a rural area.

I wouldn't do any high-heat techniques in an enclosed space, other than a proper laboratory or chemical plant. Simply too risky. Vents can break down if not constructed of the right chemical-resistant materials.

And to do all that means a lot of investment, meaning it's only practical when one is performing at least small-industry level refining.

Without knowing for sure I suspect it may be inside a building or in a closed backyard.
There are some really simple devices in here comprised of tin cans on wood fire or barbecue coals.

 

[Alondro]

Without knowing for sure I suspect it may be inside a building or in a closed backyard.
There are some really simple devices in here comprised of tin cans on wood fire or barbecue coals.

Heh, I build my first wood-fired kiln when I was 13. It lasted 20 years and created nearly 150lbs of aluminum ingots, back when that was my primary metal of interest, since I could get a lot of scrap with little effort. I'm going to be remaking that design this time too, with some modifications that should allow it to reach about 2100F steadily.

I found a HUGE cast iron pipe, 1/8th inch walls, that I can cut into at least 10 crucibles/smelting chambers. The only costs there will be firebrick for lining the interior and some refractory cement to plug the bottom of the pipe sections. I found a furnace/kiln supply store that carries everything. Just waiting for it to stop being nearly 100F and as humid as a sauna here every day to start building.

That setup will be perfect for processing my base metals, and I can save my gas setup and costly crucibles for the PMs.

 

[swaminair]

You can not refine anything inside a house where people live, unless you have a proper fume hood.
Even then it should not be done.
The fumes will corrode any and all metal objects and some fumes are toxic and may accumulate in the body of living beings over time.
If this is your situation you should seriously reconsider your plan.

sorry mate I forgot to mention I have a good terrace and a backyard with enough space for a fume hood with trees around. so happy can get through fume hood for IC's.High airflow and ventilation are available for the process, and being too small I can't make more than 10 lb max,with this I think of grinding the peeled out IC's.
regards
swami nair

 

[swaminair]

Yeah, I'll always go with the HCl-bleach, myself. Bleach is so cheap when you buy store brands, even cheaper than peroxide. And it's more stable than peroxide, so it lasts longer in storage. The test drops I've gotten with it after boiling for a bit to blow off the excess chlorine (and concentrate the gold solution a bit more, since adding washes dilutes it) have been fantastic.

I've got just over 5 grams of excellent-looking light-brown gold powder from 2 small runs of a little over a pound of high-grade bits each, and am now on to a larger batch of 5 lbs of gold fingers, high-grade pins, and GF watch band segments.

View attachment 51599

mate thanks for the info between what brands of Ram were they "high brand bits" what ram were they: I am trying out to purchase ddr ddr2 and ddr3 rams with high priority.
As you have got an yield of 5 grams on 1 lb or 1/2 kilogram. I wish to know more about the ram models so that I can purchase them out instead of chasing some odds for nothing.

Help me out by just quoting the ram models of ddr or did you purchase SD /RD rams.when the sellers demand high cost for ddr ddr2 and ddr3 double sided chips and fingers they cost around 40-45 usd per kilogram which is higher to gold rate today which is 60% of the gold price.so I am cautious in purchasing them.
so I need your support in this issue about rams you purchased so I can be aware of what to purchase on rams?

Thank you in Advance.
Forgot to mention your method of extraction too, I planned AR first , now with yggdrasil AP,can you specify the full method including pure gold extract.
Friends I will gift all who had helped the process after clearing my debts.

 

[Yggdrasil]

mate thanks for the info between what brands of Ram were they "high brand bits" what ram were they: I am trying out to purchase ddr ddr2 and ddr3 rams with high priority.
As you have got an yield of 5 grams on 1 lb or 1/2 kilogram. I wish to know more about the ram models so that I can purchase them out instead of chasing some odds for nothing.

Help me out by just quoting the ram models of ddr or did you purchase SD /RD rams.when the sellers demand high cost for ddr ddr2 and ddr3 double sided chips and fingers they cost around 40-45 usd per kilogram which is higher to gold rate today which is 60% of the gold price.so I am cautious in purchasing them.
so I need your support in this issue about rams you purchased so I can be aware of what to purchase on rams?

Thank you in Advance.
Forgot to mention your method of extraction too, I planned AR first , now with yggdrasil AP,can you specify the full method including pure gold extract.
Friends I will gift all who had helped the process after clearing my debts.

Bleach may or may not hold longer in cold areas, I have no numbers for that but it will decompose faster in solution.

Bleach does two things, increase the pH and release Chlorine (the business end of this process) the biggest issue is that Cl- have a very short lifespan in solutions before it gas off as Cl2.
You need to watch out for the pH and also make sure you feed it enough to keep up the Cl- to do the job.

This is why I prefer HydrogenPeroxide if I can choose.

One can use pool chlorine tablets, but they come with their own challenges.

Edit for spelling

 

[swaminair]

Bleach may or may not hold longer in cold areas, I have no numbers for that but it will decompose faster in solution.

Bleach does two things, increase the pH and release Chlorine (the business end of this process) the biggest issue is that Cl- have a very short lifespan in solutions before it gas off as Cl2.
You need to watch out for the pH and also make sure you feed it enough to keep up the Cl- to do the job.

This is why I prefer HydrogenPeroxide if I can choose.

One can use pool chlorine tablets, but they come with their own challenges.

Edit for spelling

Thank you mate.Getting a HCL based bleach is easy.will try it out. waiting for Alondro's ram tips to boost up the buy of ram sticks. Able to get ddr2 and ddr3 but not sure what models to purchase some researches show Dimm shows better gold, some says ddr with simm is better with gold. confused hence waiting for Alondro.
The rams cost higher to around $45 a kilogram.Hence being at risk on spending waiting .

 

[Yggdrasil]

Thank you mate.Getting a HCL based bleach is easy.will try it out. waiting for Alondro's ram tips to boost up the buy of ram sticks. Able to get ddr2 and ddr3 but not sure what models to purchase some researches show Dimm shows better gold, some says ddr with simm is better with gold. confused hence waiting for Alondro.
The rams cost higher to around $45 a kilogram.Hence being at risk on spending waiting .

The older the better, usually regarding electronics.
Not sure if that goes for Ram to.

 

[swaminair]

yes for that I tried SD RD rams earlier with the vendors but hard to find them, only ddr2 and 3 are available ,hence I am suspicious of the output as the cost is higher or least 50=55% of the gold rate.
Trying to get off this mess from members help.If any one shares about Ram as I had watched out with few youtube videos of sreetips,but not sure of the ram variety.Alondro seems to pull something better hence I made that request to him.
sure surfing around the world for the oldest But I am too late in refining hence the problem.

 

[Alondro]

mate thanks for the info between what brands of Ram were they "high brand bits" what ram were they: I am trying out to purchase ddr ddr2 and ddr3 rams with high priority.
As you have got an yield of 5 grams on 1 lb or 1/2 kilogram. I wish to know more about the ram models so that I can purchase them out instead of chasing some odds for nothing.

Help me out by just quoting the ram models of ddr or did you purchase SD /RD rams.when the sellers demand high cost for ddr ddr2 and ddr3 double sided chips and fingers they cost around 40-45 usd per kilogram which is higher to gold rate today which is 60% of the gold price.so I am cautious in purchasing them.
so I need your support in this issue about rams you purchased so I can be aware of what to purchase on rams?

Thank you in Advance.
Forgot to mention your method of extraction too, I planned AR first , now with yggdrasil AP,can you specify the full method including pure gold extract.
Friends I will gift all who had helped the process after clearing my debts.

It was all mixed up fingers from all sorts of RAM and industrial boards. I don't get enough of one type to bother sorting it. I just trim the fingers off of everything until I half-fill a large beaker.

I will say that the RAM mostly looked old, with large chips. And the industrial boards were a mix of telecom and heavy industry with thick rows of fingers.

The pins I had in that batch were partly military grade from some... ahem... 1970's nuclear launch control boards... It was actually available in a military surplus lot. Those boards have gold-plated everything, as well as what look to be large early-type MLCCs the size of a postage stamp. I'm nervous to test them, because if they are MLCCs, the yield of palladium from them will be massive. They have huge, thick electrodes. But if they're some type of resistor, might have nothing. I can't tell because almost nothing on those boards looked even remotely like consumer electronics parts. I still can't identify many of them.

I'm saving all my lower-grade pins and gold-plated fingers and boards with small gold-plated contact points for later, when I've finished depopulating my entire current stockpile of circuit boards.

 

[swaminair]

It was all mixed up fingers from all sorts of RAM and industrial boards. I don't get enough of one type to bother sorting it. I just trim the fingers off of everything until I half-fill a large beaker.

I will say that the RAM mostly looked old, with large chips. And the industrial boards were a mix of telecom and heavy industry with thick rows of fingers.

The pins I had in that batch were partly military grade from some... ahem... 1970's nuclear launch control boards... It was actually available in a military surplus lot. Those boards have gold-plated everything, as well as what look to be large early-type MLCCs the size of a postage stamp. I'm nervous to test them, because if they are MLCCs, the yield of palladium from them will be massive. They have huge, thick electrodes. But if they're some type of resistor, might have nothing. I can't tell because almost nothing on those boards looked even remotely like consumer electronics parts. I still can't identify many of them.

I'm saving all my lower-grade pins and gold-plated fingers and boards with small gold-plated contact points for later, when I've finished depopulating my entire current stockpile of circuit boards.

Thank you for sharing mate.I am getting only ddr2 and ddr3 rams at higher prices as mentioned as ram scrap is now targeted than processors.They say per kg almost 2 pounds/lb and a bit more costs around 45$ in my zone and are scarce.
so while investing this much I spend almost a gram of gold with so I am worried about purchasing them.
Hence I sought help.
Regarding yours you got a original stick I think so which should be RD which have good stock pile of gold.