goldsilverpro said:Excellent videos, Ralph. So far, the best videos produced by anyone that I can think of. And, they're free!
kadriver said:Dawg,
I would suggest that you have the engineer install several (4 equidistant) lugs around the periphery of the tank.
Then, using equal length leads, you can attach the negative from your power supply to these four points
If you have just one lug, then the electrical flow will cause the silver to form more densely at that one point in the cell.
By having four lugs and using equal length leads to each lug, you will distribute the electrical flow evenly and the silver crystal formation will be more uniform.
Now I see what you were talking about in your PM.
Thank you,
kadriver
ExNuke said:kadriver said:Dawg,
I would suggest that you have the engineer install several (4 equidistant) lugs around the periphery of the tank.
Then, using equal length leads, you can attach the negative from your power supply to these four points
If you have just one lug, then the electrical flow will cause the silver to form more densely at that one point in the cell.
By having four lugs and using equal length leads to each lug, you will distribute the electrical flow evenly and the silver crystal formation will be more uniform.
Now I see what you were talking about in your PM.
Thank you,
kadriver
This thread has some age on it so it's too late to offer anything to those who were in it but a suggestion for anyone new reading it might be well recieved.
For making a good connection to their stainless bowl, find or buy a piece of sheet copper from a craft store and make a permanent connection to it for your negative lead. Then just set your bowl on it. The weight of the full bowl will make a good low resistance connection. It takes the minimal actual contact area of an alligator clip out of the circuit. I found that putting an up side down 4" watch glass in the bottom of the bowl reduces the risk of fingers of crystals reaching the basket and the slight loss of surface area isn't really noticeable.
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