When dropping copper out of stuff

When I have dropped CU out of purifying things, it falls out as red, then turns bright green as it dries. How come? Have I done something wrong? How do I get it back to looking like CU should?

Paige

Paige,

Rinsing the copper a few extra times doesn't hurt, and it may even solve the problem entirely. Drying it completely could also help (vaccuum filtering or absorbant filters). It may still turn even after taking these precautions. It's not your fault. Copper in the finely divide form reacts easily with air and other chemical vapors. I wash mine three times with water then squeeze it dry in a balled up multilayered filter while wearing gloves. Then I place it in a ziploc bag with a few more dry filters to absorb any other moisture. This allows the copper to dry better before it gets exposed to the elements so to speak. Here is a snapshot of a quart sized baggie with dropped copper:




I've have quite a bit more that shows signs of the green salt you mention. My earliest attempts have actually turned into solid green chunks. This green copper was from before I started washing and drying the copper.

You shouldn't be so hard on yourself.


Steve

ekk that looks like what was supposed to be my Gold from the shore kit.
LazerSteve you are my hero. Is that torch Oxy/Acetylene in you Avatar? I think I see what I did wrong I used the cutting torch I am guessing that5 is a bit hotter.

Destroyer said:

Is that torch Oxy/Acetylene in you Avatar?

Click to expand...

Yes. It's a little too hot sometimes, but I've learned to adjust it to the right temperature. Keeping it moving and watching the distance between the tip and the dish helps me control the average temperature. I work slowly and use the torch to stir and move the button until it just melts and then moves freely about the borax coated dish. My biggest overheating problems come when I work silver because it is so easily evaporated by overheating.

One day I'm going to build a furnace for more controlled melting.


Steve

lazersteve said:

Destroyer said:

Is that torch Oxy/Acetylene in you Avatar?

Click to expand...

Yes. It's a little too hot sometimes, but I've learned to adjust it to the right temperature. Keeping it moving and watching the distance between the tip and the dish helps me control the average temperature. I work slowly and use the torch to stir and move the button until it just melts and then moves freely about the borax coated dish. My biggest overheating problems come when I work silver because it is so easily evaporated by overheating.

One day I'm going to build a furnace for more controlled melting.


Steve

Click to expand...

I had a Burno Crucible but it died when I tried the first time I tried to use it. Wondering where a guy could get a dish like the one you are using looks to be just right also something to pour that into would be good bet there is a market for gold buttons and all but I like bars.

Steve,

I believe you have built many furnaces, "Mini-Firebrick Furnace", LOL. I love the one you made for me, it makes me think of old-time blacksmiths, I get a little carried away sometimes and ponder putting some steel stock in it, then pounding it out on my anvil. LOL Just kidding.

I imagine you mean either an inductive furnace or a kiln like gas fired furnace. If you are ever looking for parts for an inductive furnace, let me know, I may be able to help you out with power supply or an inductor/cap. filter.

Thanks again for my furnace, and all your help,
Nick

P.S. I just noticed that your tip appears to be similar to a rosebud. I never noticed that, I always thought a smaller tip was used from your site's videos. Was this video of an inquartation? More heat, and material won't blow out. Where you used the small tip for gold powder?

Nick,

The tip in the videos is a small tip, like a cutting tip.

Steve