6' Fume Hood

This is my design of my temporary fume hood that I'll use for Au & PGM refining.

A good project starts with good planning.



Tools/Material needed for this are:

-4' x 8' Melamine boards (5/8'' for me)
-2'' x 4'' Wood
-Wood/Drywall Paint
-Various Screws
-Drill
-Pick-up truck (Bought a B4000 '98)
-Benjamin Moore Polyamide Epoxy Paint (P36)

Work surface is around 6' x 27'' and all the inside surfaces will be coated with industrial grade epoxy.

I did my CAD drawing based on the base that I already made.

Base:



**UNDER CONSTRUCTION**

What is the pickup truck for? Is it going to be a mobile fume hood?

Jim

No haha, it is for transporting everything needed for my business... 4x8 boards, wood, metal, chemicals, equipment, etc...

"The difference between a dream & reality is, a good plan!" 8)

Good Job Noxx! Epoxy paint is a very good idea. 27 is a good depth as well. Mark a line 6 inches inside the doors and work on the far side of it. (keeps you safe) What kind of door system are you going to use? Mine is a slider that I can pin at various heights depending on what process I am doing. I like it.

Noxx said:

A good project starts with good planning.

Click to expand...

That's a healty thinking Noxx.

Iv'e been toying around with this design idea, i gathered it from different desigens seen on the net.
With basic assumption that the suction should not be ditected only upward, but also away from the operator.

i implemented it in your design, sorry for the way it looks btw:



This seems easy enough to build, the only question, will it work?
Any thoughts?

Here is the door system on mine.

early stages of construction

Hard at work

Painting the pannels:

I worked more on this in the last two days and managed finish the frame...











The door will be custom made tempered glass.

This hood needs about 1800 CFM, so I'll use a 10'' PVC pipe for exhaust.

Looking goooood!! 8)

Phil

That looks very nice, Jean!
My light was similar to yours. Great way to light the interior.

Harold

that does appear to be good handy work.you may make a good handy man. :lol: will the opening in front be closed up any or will the door be as big as the opening is now?

Thanks

The door will be 6' long too (1/4'' thick tempered glass).

First CAD dwg of the door.

Also, I decided to make a chemicals cabinet under the hood with wood scraps I had.

CAD dwg here too.

That is looking good Noxx!

I will be nice to hear how your epoxy paint holds up over time. Keep us posted.

Instead of one big sheet of glass, have you thought of about 4-6 narrow sliding panels of glass riding in 2-3 routered grooves at the bottom and top? You could glue small rectangular pieces of plexiglass on the glass as handles. Sounds safer and you'd have a variable opening. You wouldn't need a total seal between the panels.

I really like the slidey uppy door. I have stops at 4, 8, 16 and 30 inches. For a full on dissolution I keep it at 4 or 8 inches open. For milder reactions I can have it open to 16 inches and still work filtering and such with no fumes. When doing a set up or decanting I can open the full 30 inches and work away.

At full open it works well for melting. Lots of room and no metal fumes. Easy to move buckets in and out. Sliding up gives very good CONTROLLED access to the material in the hood.

goldsilverpro said:

Instead of one big sheet of glass, have you thought of about 4-6 narrow sliding panels of glass riding in 2-3 routered grooves at the bottom and top? You could glue small rectangular pieces of plexiglass on the glass as handles. Sounds safer and you'd have a variable opening. You wouldn't need a total seal between the panels.

Click to expand...

No, I did not think of this... I don't see how it would be safer ?

glondor said:

I really like the slidey uppy door. I have stops at 4, 8, 16 and 30 inches. For a full on dissolution I keep it at 4 or 8 inches open. For milder reactions I can have it open to 16 inches and still work filtering and such with no fumes. When doing a set up or decanting I can open the full 30 inches and work away.

At full open it works well for melting. Lots of room and no metal fumes. Easy to move buckets in and out. Sliding up gives very good CONTROLLED access to the material in the hood.

Click to expand...

My door, in opposition to your design, won't use pins. It'd be risky to hold 60-70 lbs of glass with two pins. For this reason, the door will have counterweights like a real fume hood.

What's the rating of your blower ?

Hey Noxx. I do not really know the rated cfm of my blower. It is a furnace blower for a house so it does move a large quantity of air. My main restriction is the out flow pipe as the building owner where my shop is would only allow me to use an existing roof thru point and it is too small and too far away. Thankfully he has agreed to allow me to install a 12 inch cone directly above my hood. This will improve my air flow greatly. I am going to try to get some 10 inch plastic water main from a local construction project and use that as the outflow. The furnace blower has held up well to this point but does require twice daily inspection. I have laid a little beach of baking soda around it on the top of my hood and check regularly for little drips on the bicarb. The weakness is oem holes in the blower case that I initially plugged with caulk. I patch with construction adhesive applied to a 6 mil poly sheet. When this one gives up I will try the same model treated with epoxy paint and see how it does.

I would like a proper unit but it is out of the budget at this time. They are very expensive.

I don't recall any discussion of how a blower of any type draws anything
with the door fully closed?

Where is the inlet when the door is shut?

But still it might be beneficial to be able to close it completely in the event of a power outage.