dallasgoldbug
Active member
Hello all,
Forgive me if this process has been discussed previously. I did a search on the topic but didn't see anything posted.
For the past 6 months I have been using Muradic Acid as an electrolyte in a vertical column with carbon rods/disks as electrodes, Cathode at the bottom and anode at the top, to disolve gold and other metals from boards and fingers.
I use 8-15volts DC and around 10amps to disolve everything including platinum into the solution. The platinum disolves when the solution is heated (I just turn up the juice and that is sufficient to increase the temperature. It will boil if you let it.
Using higher amps, dissolve everything faster, but be aware of the hydrogen bubbles that will vented out the top of your column. Make sure the connections to your top electrode are secure and don't remove it while the power is on or you can create a spark resulting in possible BANG!
As the metals begin to dissolve, copper will plate to the anode (top carbon rod or disk). I periodically turn off the power, remove the electrode and scrape the copper off into a separate container.
The solution turns green at first, then a much darker color at the bottom, as Hydrogen/Chlorine is created and slowly moves up the column. The solution is contained and never escapes the rig (unless you have a spill) Very interesting to watch it attack the boards. The gold falls off and sometimes create a bright pure gold ring around the column.
The time to complete the process will vary with size of your column and amount of current applyed. Mine is a cylinder glass flower vase I found at Marshals ($10), and is about 2.5' x 7" 1/4" thick. It usually completes the process in 2 days. You can use a plastic bucket, 5 gallon water jug, or tupperware container from wallmart if you want.
But the fun begins when you try to connect the bottom electrode to the power lead without allowing it to come in contact with the solution.
I use a volt and amp meter connected to the rig so I can tell if a connection is compromised.
I also use Dow Corning 3140 RTV to coat all contacts points, with the lead running through a small hole I drilled in the side of the glass. (took about 30min to slowly drill with a glass bit) I filled the bottom of the container with the sealent up past this hole (about 1" thick) I encased the carbon disk and its connection in the sealant allowing only the top side of the electrode to be visible.
You can try running a wire down the inside of the column but will run into problems as the solution slowly penetrates the wire. I even tried using coated wire used in the oil and gas industry but found the next weakest link was the connection.
Using glass I find the RTV sufficient even when the glass flexes due to temperature change. Plastic containers dont seem to hold as well. If you do use plastic make sure to put the whole thing in a container (5 gallon bucket) just in case you spring a leak.
The advantage to this process is only needing Muradic, and not having to deal with Nitric.
Plus no need for urea, just SMB out the gold.
A word of advise, make sure you do this process in a place where you can vent off the fumes. I learned that lesson when I discovered everything in my kitchen (where I had the rig running) started to corode.
I can post photos of my rig if you are interested.
Your comments please.
Thanks
DallasGoldBug
Forgive me if this process has been discussed previously. I did a search on the topic but didn't see anything posted.
For the past 6 months I have been using Muradic Acid as an electrolyte in a vertical column with carbon rods/disks as electrodes, Cathode at the bottom and anode at the top, to disolve gold and other metals from boards and fingers.
I use 8-15volts DC and around 10amps to disolve everything including platinum into the solution. The platinum disolves when the solution is heated (I just turn up the juice and that is sufficient to increase the temperature. It will boil if you let it.
Using higher amps, dissolve everything faster, but be aware of the hydrogen bubbles that will vented out the top of your column. Make sure the connections to your top electrode are secure and don't remove it while the power is on or you can create a spark resulting in possible BANG!
As the metals begin to dissolve, copper will plate to the anode (top carbon rod or disk). I periodically turn off the power, remove the electrode and scrape the copper off into a separate container.
The solution turns green at first, then a much darker color at the bottom, as Hydrogen/Chlorine is created and slowly moves up the column. The solution is contained and never escapes the rig (unless you have a spill) Very interesting to watch it attack the boards. The gold falls off and sometimes create a bright pure gold ring around the column.
The time to complete the process will vary with size of your column and amount of current applyed. Mine is a cylinder glass flower vase I found at Marshals ($10), and is about 2.5' x 7" 1/4" thick. It usually completes the process in 2 days. You can use a plastic bucket, 5 gallon water jug, or tupperware container from wallmart if you want.
But the fun begins when you try to connect the bottom electrode to the power lead without allowing it to come in contact with the solution.
I use a volt and amp meter connected to the rig so I can tell if a connection is compromised.
I also use Dow Corning 3140 RTV to coat all contacts points, with the lead running through a small hole I drilled in the side of the glass. (took about 30min to slowly drill with a glass bit) I filled the bottom of the container with the sealent up past this hole (about 1" thick) I encased the carbon disk and its connection in the sealant allowing only the top side of the electrode to be visible.
You can try running a wire down the inside of the column but will run into problems as the solution slowly penetrates the wire. I even tried using coated wire used in the oil and gas industry but found the next weakest link was the connection.
Using glass I find the RTV sufficient even when the glass flexes due to temperature change. Plastic containers dont seem to hold as well. If you do use plastic make sure to put the whole thing in a container (5 gallon bucket) just in case you spring a leak.
The advantage to this process is only needing Muradic, and not having to deal with Nitric.
Plus no need for urea, just SMB out the gold.
A word of advise, make sure you do this process in a place where you can vent off the fumes. I learned that lesson when I discovered everything in my kitchen (where I had the rig running) started to corode.
I can post photos of my rig if you are interested.
Your comments please.
Thanks
DallasGoldBug