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Jmell

Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2012
Messages
17
I'm running these chips in AP and did get some gold cleaning the chip on the left is what I started with and they now look like the chip on the right.
After a week of running with the AP and air. The AP is very dark. I'm changing to a new batch of AP to see if that will work on the balance of the chip.
as you can see there is a lot remanding. I could not find any of the chips where the AP had went into the gold that was inside the chip.
http://goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/download/file.php?mode=view&id=16468IMG_9868.JPG
 
Thanks Jmell!
Those I would have taken the gold lids off; crushed the ceramic and run thru AR. The gold lids thru the sulphuric cell.
How many of those you have?
Phil
 
Here is the filter of the AP and after a wash
 

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There were so many it makes very hard to hand remove the lids. I have several 100 of each type.
Maybe now that the lids are off I can crush them then go to AR?

I'm going to have to invest and buy a rock crusher i think.
Ive got several of the chips in AR but un crushed you think I should try and crush them?
 
Jmell, when I said "crush" them I really meant break them into a few pieces. Some of the smaller ones you don't really ned to break.
Behind the silicon there's some gold, so save the ceramics that still have the silicon chip attached, after you've processed them.
Phil
 
Also, when working with AP, when your solution becomes saturated with Cu II (Copper Chloride), you need to add more H20 (water) to expand your solution so the Copper Chloride can dissolve more Cu and make more Cu Chloride. It's like the movie "the blob" the more Cu it dissolves, the larger it can get, the more Cu it can dissolve. It's an ever expanding enterprise. So instead of creating a "new batch" all you need to do is one of two things. Either add more H20 to your Cu II solution, or if you do not have additional room to expand your solution, remove some of the Cu II solution and add water. Test the part of the solution you remove for values, you could possibly have Au in solution, but most likely if any dissolved it was cemented out when Cu converted to Cu II. You might have some dark powder on the bottom of your AP bucket, if you do there is a good chance that it could be Au that was cemented out. So any solution you remove, you should filter and test for values, and of course Au foils.

To remove the lids, you can use a torch, a regular propane torch works perfect for this. Hold the chip with a pair of pliers, heat the heat spreader "lid" until you see the braze/solder start to melt, then lightly tap the chip against metal, or a metal pan. Remember the lid is hot, so use a metal pan to knock the lid loose so that it comes off.

There are many different designs for ball mills, and many different ways of breaking up your chips. You could use a ball mill, and if doing a lot it would be a wise investment. I use two to good effect. However, if I don't have a lot of ceramic chips to run, simply holding the chip in your hand and hitting it sharply with a hammer will do the trick. Just break them up into 5-10 pieces each. So long as the acid can get to any gold wires that might be on the inside, you will do fine. If you do use a ball mill, you might want to also sift the powder after. Running the ceramic powder in AR will cause you a filtering nightmare.

One way to make a quick and dirty ball mill is to use a cement mixer. Just make sure the inside is clean and free of any Lime, if you transfer lime to your powder, and then try to process with acid, the lime will neutralize some of your acid, and cause you to use more than required.

Scott
 
Jmell

You are in for quite a ride.

If i were you, the very first step i would take would be to break each and every unit before any chemical tratment, that way you would easly collect the gold plated lids to be processed seperatly.

Next step would be either stright to AR or a pre-leach with warm dilute 50/50 nitric acid/distilled water, and then AR.
Nitric leach will serve two purposes, first, it will remove most base metals, second, you get to recover the silver very easily.

It's up to you to decide if it's worth your while going after the silver or not.

See these links for more information:
Merged Topics on Ceramic CPU Recovery with Yields
Ceramic cpu's processing tutorial
 
I should mention also that you should use AR just as the others posting on this thread are suggesting. I only posted about the AP so that in the future you would know how to expand your solution.

AR is probably best for this type of material, I believe it's what most of us use for Ceramic CPUs

Scott
 
If I may add, Poorman's AR would also work, very well! Its what I've been using lately. 8)
I also like to start the process with some peroxide, then add the nitrate in increments so not to over do them and be able to precipitate without problems.
Phil
 

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