Building a new shed! _fumescrubber_

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Thanks, Smack!
Well, the lawn is my son's workout, no kidding! When he mows his lawn next door, he comes over and does ours. He hasn't spent time lately in the gym, (he's into bodybuilding), so he welcomes the excersice. AND... I don't mind! :mrgreen:
Feel free to share some pic's of your set-up.

Hey Geo, thanks!
It feels great to walk in, and I'm not even close to finishing the details!
I'm more into esspresso coffee, so maybe little esspresso machine! :p
The gold plated toilet... :roll: I'll have to give that some thought. :lol:

Mystic, I'll be using a vacuum pump that I use for vacuum filtering; I have a few, so maybe that will work.

Thank you gentlemen!
Phil
 
4metals - are those off the hardware store shelf valves - I ask because we tried using off the self valves in our scrubber system & it eat the ball inside the valve out & ruined the valves - in fact our scrubber is down right now as a result so need to replace the valves (apparently the plastic ball is not PVC)

I notice you are using hot water valves (red handle) we used cold water valves (blue handle) is there a difference in the plastic used to make the hot water valves compaired to the cold water vavles? --- or are those special order chem resistent valves.

Kurt
 
The piping is all 1/2" CPVC "copper pipe size" pipe and valves. As CPVC is for hot water the handles are red. Regular off the shelf hardware stuff. Only the 3 valves coming off the top of the flasks see any NOx, the other 3 allow me to add caustic or peroxide from the beaker by shutting valves and opening others to draw in the chemical by vacuum.
 
Thank you , gentlemen, for your input! Just in time, since I'll be working on installing the vacuum lines during the weekend.

So, the beaker with the clear liquid is the caustic or peroxide? And when the valve is opened, under vacuum, it adds the liquid to the flask?
 
So, the beaker with the clear liquid is the caustic or peroxide? And when the valve is opened, under vacuum, it adds the liquid to the flask?
Click to expand...

Yes, unless you have a powerful eductor the valve which will shut the suction from the reaction needs to be off for a few seconds so the draw is strong enough to pull in the chemicals for scrubbing. I know that a 15 ounce reaction takes about 35 ml of 50% liquid caustic in the first and last flask and 25 ml H2O2 in the center flask so I add it before starting the reaction. Until I got the dosage down, I added while the reaction was running, it was easy to see when red fume is passing from one flask to the next so I just opened the feed valve for the flask needing more chemistry and quickly shut the feed from the reaction to get a small dose of chemistry into the flask. Never had to shut it too long and as the reaction is in a sealed vessel there is no fume leakage.
 
Thank you, Borther!
Now, I would like to "recover" some of the nitric from the vapors; can I first "scrubb" the vapors thru distilled water, thus recovering some nitric, and then finish running the vapors thru flask 2 and 3 with the caustic so to neutralize the vapors? This has been my plan, but... is it possible to do so?

By the way, the scrubbing "columns" are 4 inch green sewer pipe x 33 inch long and I added 5 quarts of solution, filling the column 3/4 of the way up. I'm planning on using 3 columns.
Phil
 
I would think making the first column the peroxide would catch nitric and you could use it as make-up water for silver dissolves, you may have some chlorides in there from the nitrosyl chloride that comes off with the NOx from aqua regia but adding a little silver nitrate to the water will drop silver as the chloride and clean up the solution to be used as a nitric water make-up for digesting silver or topping off your silver cell.

You want to catch any nitric you can before you hit the caustic column so there is no carry over of caustic. You could probably use at least 2 of the columns to catch NOx for re-use.

You could add a fill port with a shut off valve and a funnel on top of the column to easily add water or peroxide and a drain port on the bottom for acidic water on tap.
 
Butcher says that capturing fumes from AR will make AR and not nitric. i bubble the out gassing from AR through water that ive placed difficult pieces in to remove base metals.
 
4metals said:
The piping is all 1/2" CPVC "copper pipe size" pipe and valves. As CPVC is for hot water the handles are red. Regular off the shelf hardware stuff. Only the 3 valves coming off the top of the flasks see any NOx, the other 3 allow me to add caustic or peroxide from the beaker by shutting valves and opening others to draw in the chemical by vacuum.
Click to expand...

Hmmm - interesting - we used this very same type set up for cat leaching with HCL/Cl using all CPVC pipe & fittings (my bad for calling it PVC) our scuber collums are 6" CPVC & we used the same vaccum principal to ad CL (bleach) to our reaction vessel - the only place the system failed was in the valves between the reaction vessel & the scrubber - like I said it ruined the balls in the valves - the body of the valve was not effected

Apperently the balls in the valves we used were not CPVC &/or (?) maybe it was the CL gas that was the effecting reagent that ruined the balls

We have a SS tank that holds 6 - 5 gal buckets (they have to be buckets with "heavy duty" lids or the fittings will brake out) the SS tank is used for a hot water bath to heat the buckets (reaction vessels) to between 120 - 180 degrees

Just trying to figure out why we had valves fail (only between reaction vessels & scrubber) if your not having this problem

Kurt
 
Actually Butcher is correct and what passes over into the scrubber is aqua regia but it is higher in nitric than hydrochloric but I pass my fume through a condenser before scrubbing and that cuts down on the fume as well making the scrubber more effective.
 
Just sharing an update; I've been dismantling the old shed and using the material for building some "decks" and canopies, installing one of the old tables.
I did a deck for the big shed, too where I can place my scrap and keep things a bit better organized. The landlord said he likes that! :mrgreen: Now he wants me to build some for him at his shed... :roll: As I go along, new ideas come to mind, so it will be a bit before I get to the hood and scrubber.

I thank you for your input. I just want to capture some of the acid from the vapors for starting batches of e-scrap, and recycle as much the chemicals before treating the waste.
Hummmm... you know, those 2 corner posts in the old shed can used for extending a canopy... :mrgreen:
But, I promised my 8 year daughter a tree house! :shock: Oh well.:lol:

Hey, Grance, sorry about your ankle; OUCH!

Phil
 

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An update on the project.
I just need to nail a couple of boards on the bottom bench and I have 2 work stations for gravity filtering the buckets of solutions...

Then I'll be ready to start the extractor and vacuum lines and all the inside of the new shed.
 

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Hi,

Those are some nice sheds and you do good work. Are they going to be heated for the winter and AC for summer?

Jack
 
Thank you, Jack!
The white one won't be; its just for storage. The new one will have heat. No AC, though, since its usually cool here, but I do have an small AC that I bought a couple of years ago that can be installed, if need be! :mrgreen:
Phil
 
Phil,

The tan shed on the side where the bucket are is that your outside work area? That white table top what size is it and is it the same as the white shed one? Is it made out of wood? I have a 8' x 8' shed I could build something like your when I work outside to be safe.

Jack
 
The tan shed on the side where the bucket are is that your outside work area?
Click to expand...
Yes,that's one. The other is in the white shed. It will be mainly used for siphoning, gravity filtering, storage of AP and other solutions, also when treating waste.
That white table top what size is it and is it the same as the white shed one?
Click to expand...
20 inches x 54 inches on the tan shed; 24 inches x 66 inches on the white shed.

Phil
 

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