Conversion of AgCl via NaOH and Karo Question

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Sorry for the delay in responding to this one but yesterday morning we had a sever storm blow though here (80 mph winds) that blew out our electric power (no computer) & today was spent cleaning up the storm damage.

Anyway – I see most of best minds in refining (those I have learned “so much” from) have already posted replies – lots of technical info to help understand what’s going on in the process.

I still consider my self a beginner at refining with so much yet to learn so I hope my post here doesn’t sound like a student trying to be smarter then my teachers & as much as the technical info is good to know for understanding the process of working with AgCL – in practice the process is simple & I have figured out a few things to even make it easy.

Whether doing AgCL or cementing end product of course depends on how clean or how dirty your starting material is (concerning base metals) if you start with a dirty source (like contact points) you are going to get drag down whether going with AgCL or cementing. What I like about AgCL is that I seem to get a cleaner end product.

Based on XRF read out I have had my cement come back as low as around 95 but my worst AgCL has been around 97 (from contact points) On the other hand the best cement I have had (from sterling) has been 98.5 with AgCL coming in at 99.95

As a “hobby” refiner doing batches of 20 oz to 40 oz – this is what I like about going with AgCL instead of cementing - I can achieve 999 in less time & with less hassle.

Once you have your Ag nitrate – if your starting material was a clean source like sterling there is no reason why you should not have 999 powders ready for drying after 4 – 6 hrs. If your starting material was dirty like contact points 3 days once you have your Ag nitrate. Day 1 – drop Ag CL wash – convert – wash – dry over night, --- Day 2 – weigh – re-dissolve to nitrate. --- Day 3 same as day 1 with 99 plus Ag in the end. --- On say a 40 oz batch with cementing & running a 1 or 2 liter cell off a computer power supply it would take 5 to 7 days with much time spent watching the cell to keep the crystals knocked down to prevent shorting the cell.

The 2 reasons most people avoid going with AgCL is first the concern of not getting complete conversion due to the cottage cheese clumping nature of AgCL & concern that the NaOH wont get to all the AgCL in the middle of the clumps to complete the conversion. And the clumping is made even worse if you use hot water wash’s to wash out water soluble CL’s like Lead CL etc.

The second is washing out the NaOH. Its nasty stuff & can take a LOT of water washing to really get it out. (I have had to do as much as 5 or 6 washing to really get it out) --- But there is a solution to both of these problems.

First “cold” water along with a kitchen egg beater “whip” will brake most of the clumps down to much finer particles & smaller clumps. – Then “before” adding your NaOH – take your corn syrup – dilute it about 50/50 with warm water (I always use D-water) so it’s still syrupy but flows nice & add it to your AgCL & whip the living day lights out of it with your kitchen whip. The vast majority of your AgCL will brake down to very fine particles with only some very small clumps. More of a milky slurry. (note - you should have your AgCL in plenty of water when you ad the corn syrup)

Now you can ad your NaOH while stirring vigorously (I use 98.5% NaOH dry form & I ad it dry) & your end result should be a nice gray fine divided silver cement.

Now to get the NaOH out --- ad small amounts of HCL stirring it till you get a ph of 7 or 6.5 (keep it just slightly alkaline) & you should now only have to wash it 2 or 3 times before its ready to go to drying.

There is no reason to not get 995 to 999 silver in short order with the AgCL method – the only delay being maybe to give it a couple days to settle if you need to re-dissolve & run a second time.

Trace amounts of Pd = DMG --- if there are more then trace amounts of PGMs – then its cement & silver cell.

Kurt
 
Hi
Tried to convert agcl using Naoh process today.i never tried karo earlier its not available where iam , so i tried sugar , the output was fast and easy to filter
no karo syrup just concentrated sugar solution , thats like magic, followed the steps of the laser Steve above , used concentrated sugar water solution, here is the picture.Thanks Lazer steve
Regards
Sena
 

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I am doing a similar process. I got to the silver point then dried it.

Tricky part has been melting the powder and getting ingots.

I'll try and post some photos of my failures.
 
duncan said:
I am doing a similar process. I got to the silver point then dried it.

Tricky part has been melting the powder and getting ingots.

I'll try and post some photos of my failures.


Incernation the sludge would help the "trickyness" surpass it .please do incernating the resulting sludge for easier melting .

Regards
Sena
 
duncan said:
I am doing a similar process. I got to the silver point then dried it.

Tricky part has been melting the powder and getting ingots.

I'll try and post some photos of my failures.

duncan - I am not sure what you mean by the melting being "tricky"?

sena - you mention incinerating the sludge before melting - i have never needed to do this - what is the reason for doing so?

I can see a problem with the melt &/or a need to incinerate if you are not getting all the NaOH & sugar washed out before drying & going to melt.

washing the NaOH out can be a real pain - its nasty stuff & can take multiple washings to get it out (it tends to cling or hang in the sludge) Its one of the reason this method is avoided as a silver refining method.

However - if you use some HCL to neutralize the NaOH before washing - it will cut the amount of water & time for washing by half or more.

After you have done your sugar/lye convertion - adjust the ph from being a strong alkaline to being just slightly alkaline on a litmus test. Then after you decant the solution - it should only take a couple water washings & much less water.

In fact - if you use HCL - instead of salt for your AgCL convertion - you can use that to make your ph adjustment - it just takes more volume of the old HCL convertion solution because it is diluted (as opposed to using straight HCL to adjust the ph)

Just don't let it go to the acidic side when making this adjustment as that will result in "some" of your Ag sludge converting back to AgCL - so ad your HCL a little at a time testing with litmus paper till you achieve just a slight alkaline test.

Kurt
 
I have followed the threads about the conversion of AgCl, but I am uncertain how to proceeed:
I have dissolved the plastic foils of silverplated CD-Rs using Chlorox. The silver plating went off and small black particles were created.
I then filtered the slug of plastic and liquid with a quite large screen and received the dark-purple colored wet substance, which I suppose is AgCl.
I know that it usually is white if sealed under HCl and turn very dark when exposed to light and air.
My question now is ( I still have the wet slug). How do I proceed from here?
1.) Cement with copper - What should I use to fill up the beaker: HCl or water or else?
2.) Lye and sugar method: Is this appropriate in this case, since you always talk about the white AgCl, that will need to be turned into a black sludge by adding NaOH. Now my sludge is already black (but not AgO I suppose).

Dissolving the silver using chlorox:
S1033408.JPG

1. Filtering:
S1033413.JPG

Filtered Liquid:
S1033423.JPG

2.Filtering
S1033419.JPG

Now how to go on from here? I have collected the sludge, rinsed with water. It is still wet but very compact.
I tried melting some of the material as a test right away, it did melt and form some tiny silver balls, but as I can tell from the scope, there are still 50% impurities in the button that look like salts (green) also the silver does not melt together as one nicely.
 
Marcel,

I have never recovered silver from cd-roms, but I can help you with testing the unknown purple precipitate.

1) Collect a small sample of the precipitate in a test tube.
2) Add four times the volume of the unknown material of 10% ammonium hydroxide and stir vigourously.
3) Filter off the liquid.
4) Add 30%+concentration muriatic acid until the solution tests acid to pH paper (<pH7) and stir vigourously.
5) A white curd like precipitate should form that settles fast and changes purple when exposed to sunlight if silver is present. This is silver chloride.
6) Convert the silver chloride with any one of the methods outline here and on my website videos.

Note: Always add HCl to left over base solutions to make them acidic before storing. Basic solutions (specifically ammonical) can form explosive compounds when shelved for long peroids of time.

Steve
 
Are you dissolving the silver with straight Clorox or HCl and Clorox? Also, I thought CD-roms were plastic coated in aluminum.

Can you provide source material, where you learned this process?
 
Just to throw this hat into the ring..... I use Harold's method of HCL and aluminum. Just add some HCL to your clean chloride and add a clean aluminum billet heat sink and stir it around with an aluminum paddle cut from an aluminum computer panel. Vigorous reaction. Fun to do and if you are doing computer recycling you already have every thing you need in your shop. HCL and aluminum.

Stir and agitate until your silver is a uniform grey colour with no white specks.

Caution.....Do not do this near an open flame as the offgas is Hydrogen.
 
I've done the silver and karo syrup a few times. I don't like the sticky mes I have to purify at the end. If it's AgCl I have I'd rather just put a piece of zinc in there. I usually cement my Ag with copper wire or pennies from a mix of 50ml silver nitrate to 3 liters of water.
 
Do not use zinc to cement silver, you would get copper and other metals mixed into your silver.
Copper is the correct metal to use to cement silver to get it as pure as possible with this method.

/Göran

Edit : This was obviously wrong for silver chloride and only applies to silver nitrate solutions. Read more below.

/Göran
 
g_axelsson said:
Do not use zinc to cement silver, you would get copper and other metals mixed into your silver.
Copper is the correct metal to use to cement silver to get it as pure as possible with this method.

/Göran

I said I use zinc to cement silver from silver chloride. I use copper for silver nitrate. Try adding copper to silver chloride and tell me what happens. And no you wont contaminate your silver chloride with zinc so long as you wash with HCL after. I do it all the time.
 
I think the confusion here comes from the misuse use of the word cement,.

You do not, or cannot cement silver chloride with zinc.

Silver chloride is already insoluble and does not need cementing from solution.

But we can convert silver chloride to metallic silver metal powders, using zinc in an acidic solution like dilute HCl.

Iron metal and dilute sulfuric acid will also convert silver chloride to silver metal.

Using copper metal is the better metal to cement silver from solution to form insoluble silver metal powders called silver cement.
 
I wanted to let you all know that I've tried this method with gold. When I had a solution of gold chloride I added NaOH, droped the gold as gold hydroxide, then syphoned off the ammonia smelling liquid, and added karo syrup. It seemed to precipitate but I wasn't 100% sure. All I can say is it changed colors same as with silver. The problem came when I tried to melt it. Unlike silver which is heavy and thick, the gold was a fine powder now surrounded by syrup. I had Hell trying to melt the crap and gave up!!
 
nōnāgintā trēs,

I really do not understand why you would try something like that; the gold can be cemented or chemically precipitated from the acidic solution as a fairly pure gold metal leaving most all of the other metals in solution.

When you removed the acid from the gold using NaOH where then the gold was no longer soluble in the salt water that formed, it would also precipitate hydroxides of the other base metals from solution, I do not think the gold would have formed a gold hydroxide, or even a gold oxide because gold is so un-reactive (caustic I do not believe would be strong enough at this stage), and since gold would most likely still be a chloride or elemental gold, I do not think the Karo syrup would have any action on the gold, as the way it does on silver oxides (silver forms oxides with NaOH), when using Karo syrup on silver oxide the sugars in Karo syrup assist in converting the silver to metal by removing the oxygen atoms, converting the oxide from the silver to water with the added hydrogen from the sugar in the syrup.

I would expect a mess in the melt, but as long as you kept this mess you should be able to get your gold back.
 
nōnāgintā trēs said:
g_axelsson said:
Do not use zinc to cement silver, you would get copper and other metals mixed into your silver.
Copper is the correct metal to use to cement silver to get it as pure as possible with this method.

/Göran
I said I use zinc to cement silver from silver chloride. I use copper for silver nitrate. Try adding copper to silver chloride and tell me what happens. And no you wont contaminate your silver chloride with zinc so long as you wash with HCL after. I do it all the time.
My bad, I didn't read enough. But on the other hand you didn't describe the complete reaction, leaving out the diluted HCl. If I just put a piece of copper or zinc in a silver chloride solution without additions I wouldn't get any noticeable reaction.

To all the readers, for the exact way to convert AgCl into pure silver via zinc or iron in a weak acid solution, search the forum. I haven't tried it myself and I'm not going to describe a method I'm not familiar with.

/Göran
 
butcher said:
nōnāgintā trēs,

I really do not understand why you would try something like that; the gold can be cemented or chemically precipitated from the acidic solution as a fairly pure gold metal leaving most all of the other metals in solution.

When you removed the acid from the gold using NaOH where then the gold was no longer soluble in the salt water that formed, it would also precipitate hydroxides of the other base metals from solution, I do not think the gold would have formed a gold hydroxide, or even a gold oxide because gold is so un-reactive (caustic I do not believe would be strong enough at this stage), and since gold would most likely still be a chloride or elemental gold, I do not think the Karo syrup would have any action on the gold, as the way it does on silver oxides (silver forms oxides with NaOH), when using Karo syrup on silver oxide the sugars in Karo syrup assist in converting the silver to metal by removing the oxygen atoms, converting the oxide from the silver to water with the added hydrogen from the sugar in the syrup.

I would expect a mess in the melt, but as long as you kept this mess you should be able to get your gold back.

I believe nōnāgintā trēs is silentiumestaureum93 on youtube. The reason he is set on using NaOH to precipitate gold is because he seems to not be able to get SMB to work. I have given him the typical advice about excess nitric and testing with stannous but he claims he still can't make it work. So I referred him to the forum. Hopefully he finds his answers here.
 
goldenchild said:
“I believe nōnāgintā trēs is silentiumestaureum93 on youtube. The reason he is set on using NaOH to precipitate gold is because he seems to not be able to get SMB to work. I have given him the typical advice about excess nitric and testing with stannous but he claims he still can't make it work. So I referred him to the forum. Hopefully he finds his answers here.”

There is no reason he cannot find the answer here on the forum, but it does take work in studying, all of the answers are here, there is a lot to recovery and refining, it takes some time to really understand it, and how it works, or the principles involved.

The first step in understanding is to study Hokes book, learn from reading forum, learning the tricks of the trade and how to do things properly from beginning to ending, understand why problems occur and how not to cause them in the first place, or how to correct them during the processes.

Some of the things needed to be able to precipitate gold, is having a clean gold in solution (proper pretreatments to remove base metals and tin), limiting the amount of nitric or other oxidizer, and removing these before attempting to precipitate the gold, testing of solutions can let you know if you have eliminated these oxidizers, know if you have gold in solution or, know when you have precipitated all of the gold out of solution.

To get the gold to precipitate without problems, begins in the first steps of recovery of your gold, and in each step you take in that process, and all of the steps in the refining stages, these steps throughout the process will determine what you will have up to the point of recovering the gold from solution when precipitating the gold, things done wrong early in these processes can affect the ending part of your process, when things are done right in your processes they work better and the outcome is better, things done wrong in a process can give problems latter on in the process, or cause the process to not work at all.
 
To answer everyones questions of why I would try such a thing, I had only pyrosulfite to work with and for whatever reason I could'nt get it to work. At the time real SMB or "stump out" was not available to me. I tried oxalic, I tried ferris, ect,. ect,. ect,. I was new at the time and determined. I had more knowlege of chemistry than refining! So rather than waste the gold I dropped it with NaOH! I had a MASS of this orange brown insoluable powder that doesn't melt easily!!! So I tried different ways to turning AuOH3 (or what I thought was) into Au. 1 year later I turned it back using HCL to AuCl3 and now have access to SMB from sigma Al. Now all is well and I have experience of working with NaOH.

93
 

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