Converting PC Power supply for use with silver cell

Gold Refining Forum

Help Support Gold Refining Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
the color code of the wires are somewhat universal,not all power supplies are the same but the color codes are.red,yellow,orange and black + green.yellow = 12v,red = 5v,orange = 3.5v,black = Ground.
 
kadriver said:
Next, find the main plug. The one I have has 20 pins.

On this main connector there is a green wire.

cut this green wire, and any black (ground) wire.

I used the black wire right next to the green one.

Once both of these wire have been cut from the 20 pin connector, strip off some insulation to expose the ends of each wire - about 1/2 inch.

Then, join these two wires with a wire nut.

If you don't do this step, then the power supply will not energize when you plug it and turn it on.


just so everyone reading this topic knows. if you are nervous about dealing with wires, there is an option.
http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/3606/pcipowerbr.jpg

the bottom item in that pic. its a power switch for a "motherboard" for the 20pin to plug into. it can power the PSU on and off with the switch on it, just as if it were plugged into a real mobo.

this set cost me 100 bucks, but that power switch unit alone goes much cheaper.
http://www.hwtools.net/PDF/SWEX_brief.pdf
http://www.hwtools.net/Adapter/PE4H.html
http://www.hwtools.net/index.html main site
 
Hi all, I have a computer power supply from a HP mini tower 160 watts would it be able to put out amp to be use with silver cell? Thanks Jack
 
jmdlcar said:
Hi all, I have a computer power supply from a HP mini tower 160 watts would it be able to put out amp to be use with silver cell? Thanks Jack
Yes, but that's conditional on two things. The voltage that is available, and the size of the cell. Unless you have some strange condition(s), you need less than 4 volts, and amperage will relate to the surface area of the anode(s). If memory serves, you can run at about 50 amps/square foot. I ran lower and enjoyed success. I'm not convinced the power supply will provide an ideal voltage. I used to use a Variac to control voltage, which, in turn, controls amperage.

Harold
 
Hi, The output is 3.3v at 7.0a so can the silver cell be 1 quart or can it be bigger? Thanks Jack
 
Hi Jim!

When I was building my silver cell, Chris (GSP) helped me out. My cell work better than I expected!
Here's a note:
At most, each amp applied will both dissolve and deposit about 4 grams of silver per hour. However, for best results, the amps used should be limited to about 10 amps per gallon of solution and about .35 amps per square inch of anode surface area, only calculating the side of the anode facing the cathode. At that amperage (actually, current density), the voltage will fall between 3-4V in a well constructed cell.
GSP

I hope this helps.

Phil
 
Hi, So it should work. I will be doing 1oz at a time if it is that much. I will be going to yard sales to see what can fine and what can buy. Thanks Jack
 
jmdlcar said:
Hi, So it should work. I will be doing 1oz at a time if it is that much. I will be going to yard sales to see what can fine and what can buy. Thanks Jack
Hardly worth the effort, Jack, but yes, it should work quite well. I was thinking you had 5v as the lowest available. You likely understand from that, that I don't know a great deal about power supplies from computers!

The point about not being worth the effort---it's a bit of work setting up and running a cell. A small one such as you propose will be a great learning experience, and guide you in building a larger cell in the future. I definitely would not discourage you, but it's going to take a long time to process silver that way. You'd want something larger if (or when) you have more to process.

Harold
 
Hi, That power supply output are +3.3V @ 7.0A, +5.0V @ 12.0A, + 12.0V @ 6.0A, - 12.0V @ -0.1A and +5. 0Vsb @ 1.5A now can someone let know. Thanks Jack
 
Jack, I'm not sure if you're waiting for any further answers. I can't tell if you've asked a question:
... now can someone let know
If you're unsure of how to modify your power supply for use on your cell, go back to the beginning of this thread and read through it again. kadriver does a good job of explaining it.

If you're still wondering if you can use your power supply to run a 1 quart cell, the answer is yes it should work. Although it doesn't put out as many amps as the one kadriver uses, that shouldn't cause you any problems. Your cell will probably not try to draw more than the 7 amps your power supply can provide. If it tries to pull more than the power supply can provide, the power supply could shut down in the same way it does in the case of a short. If it does then you'll know you need a bigger power supply.

Dave
 
Grassbur said:
would the same procedures work for converting this power supply from a pc. it has 8 outlets labled P1 (20 pin), (P2 & P3), (P4 & P5), (P6 & P7 & P8) the last 3 groups seem to be connected or run from the same hot wire. my guess is there is a total of 4 hot wires coming off this unit. if i wanted to get the full 5 volts and 25 amps into one wire and not short out the unit. what steps would i take to do this and would i need to add any devices to this if i wanted to regulate the voltage?

it should be the large red wire. the rest of the diagram is the same as in earlier post.
 
Thanks I have a already modifly it I just to make sure it was big to do the job. The size of the cell won't be no bigger then 1 quart. I need a piece of hard graphite for the cathode. My question is will a brush out of a electrical motor work for a cathode? Thanks Jack
 
i dont think motor brushes are just graphite. i know they contain copper but im not sure what else they contain.
 
FrugalRefiner said:
Jack, a piece of stainless steel will work well for your cathode and may be easier to come by and to work with depending on the design of your cell.

Dave

Do you use stainless steel? Should it be square and what size should it be? About the wire how should I attach the wire to the stainless Steel? Thanks Jack
 
Jack, remember that the anode will need about .35 amp's per square inch of anode facing the cathode.
So you need to decide the size of the anode first, according to your power source; then the cathode should be made at least the same square area as the anode facing it, or up to twice the area of the anode.

Phil
 
Here is a simple design I made from Harold and Chris's recommendation. I use a stainless steel (Non-magnetic) 300 series mixing bowl I got for $1 at trade day. I then took a kitchen cutting block (hdpe) and cut it into two pieces. Cost $7Wal-Mart. http://www.professionalplastics.com/HDPECUTTINGBOARD
Couple of yards of muslin cloth Walmart $4. I then cut a 3in round hole with a whole saw. Drilled four holes in the top for stainless steel screws to run through so the two pieces can be clamped together. Take and cut two pieces of cloth 10in x 10in and push them through the whole to form a sock that hangs out the bottom. Then lay the other piece on top and screw them together like a sandwich. Then sit the cover on the bowl and let the sock hang down into the solution. The anode is your silver and your cathode is the whole bowl. Just clip a lead on the rim of the bowl and your good to go. The paper towel is for reference only. It takes me only a few minutes to break it down if I have to.
 

Attachments

  • 120501_206.jpg
    120501_206.jpg
    386.2 KB · Views: 568
  • 120501_205.jpg
    120501_205.jpg
    545.4 KB · Views: 568
  • 120501_204.jpg
    120501_204.jpg
    353.4 KB · Views: 568
  • 120501_203.jpg
    120501_203.jpg
    400.8 KB · Views: 568
  • silver cell.jpg
    silver cell.jpg
    467.9 KB · Views: 568
Personally I think the prize should go to the cell that's one of the best pieces of lateral thinking and use of easy and cheap to obtain materials that I have seen and to top it all I suspect it works really well and is easy to use 8)
 

Latest posts

Back
Top