Ferrocyanide leach

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hello,

i have also K3[Fe(CN)6] from an other supplier, i can repeat the test (the plating on these very modern connector-pins are very thin so the should be deplated in less time than one day...so i TINK) with it but i have no doubts on my (K4[Fe(CN)6]) quality, it is yellow cristaline (hydrated) an if i dehydrate it, it get almost white.

you can do the the reaction with FeIII to get "Berliner Blau" or, as you say: prussian bleu...so why i should have doubts on its quality.

i have doupts in my process!
but where is the mistake...it seems to be not as complicated...

the low leaching temperature couldn't be the reason for the almost not happening deplating?

the original!!! packaging

https://abload.de/img/p1030887fpj04.jpg

and the substance itself:

https://abload.de/img/p1030888pbzps.jpg

best regards, frank!
 
hello,

yep, i agree with you, there is something wrong and the ferro isn't it.

i've used an lamp for reptile breeding with some UV....and other lamps like flourescent lamps too but the tenor here at the forum was: "use sunlight!"

i have no more ideas!

best regards!
 
Well sunlight in winter may be not that good as summer heat. Last time I tried it it worked perfectly on sunny warm summer day, deplated everything within minutes (5-10). Next try it was cloudy dark day and it seemed it almost stopped to work. Dont know but that may be the case as material, reagent, concentration, aeration everything was the same as previous try.
 
hello,

o.k. 51° northern hemisphere, 5-10°C and it was a cloudy day.
that's the reason but it shows one fact impressivly: in eco goldex the active ingridient isn't a ferro or a ferric-salt.
the test with my homemade EG i do at the same days, the same weather but BEHIND 3 screens of glass with a fresh prepared sollution and the deplating time was some times only seconds.

one more mystery solved.

p.s. one question -patnor- what a concentration you've used an do you use an oxidiser or bubbled air and elevated temperature or not?

do you use these kind of leach still or not...a good working and unagressive, "untoxic" deplating sollution for every kind of e-stuff seems very luxurious to me, no dirty AP for fingers and plated boards, no ugly H2SO4-cell for magnetic and non magnetic pins and the best: you haven't to peel all the fingers out of the connectors (i hate it, it waste sooo much time), you can put them with all the plastics in the sollution but, as i think, somewhere is a hook!?


thanks a lot, best regards, frank!
 
The only catch with cyanide leach I can think of is just to learn to do it right.
I only used ecogoldex original (the first one) and E series one. For me the first one worked not so good first time I tried but it was fast next day as it happen to be a nice sunny day. Few weeks after that I tried E series and it was again slower as it was dark cloudy day.
I will try it and some other things again but it is not a big priority or time pressing goal. I will try this method more thoroughly when I will be able to take proper care to waste stream this method is producing as that is important requirement to use it safely. Yes my pins are piling up but whatever I need to cover I do from processing IC. I will however try to address pins problem some time this summer. I am sorry that I cant be of much help in this regard. I still do have both solutions in closed bottles but from what I remember I used just 1l of water in both instances, some sodium hydroxide to get desired Ph and I have used just one spoon of first ecogoldex reagent in first liter and 2 spoons of E series one in second liter of water. I did use aquarium pump to keep leach aerated and in motion and used shallow round containers.
From my understanding with ecogoldex leach correct Ph range is critical to the effectiveness of process. However as it was said here few times perhaps there is no need to try to replicate this leach as it was suggested that straight ferrocyanide should do the same job.
 

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