Fiber CPU's - That's how i do them

Gold Refining Forum

Help Support Gold Refining Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
AUH-R,
When I answered you last I could not see your pictures, that and the fact that I was not exactly sure what all you were talking about, just reading through the few posts.

The pictures add a whole new meaning.

It seems like I misunderstood a few things about what you were doing and how, you were doing them.

Now that I can see the pictures I have a little better Idea, I will not go back and try to correct my miss-understandings, but I will add just a few things I noticed from looking at the pictures.

What it looks like to me is you are working with Kovar iron based pins, these will include lead solder and the dreaded tin, HCl will attack these, and put them into solution, copper will not normally dissolve in just plain HCl without an oxidizer, but with heat and air from the atmosphere, or boiling some copper can be attacked. Gold will not be attacked, by HCl alone, or with HCl and a mild oxidizer like dilute hydrogen peroxide or oxygen from air. For copper to dissolve to much any extent needs an oxidizer like air, or oxygen which we normally add with H2O2 or an air pump.

Iron in solution as a chloride should not be boiled, heating is OK but, if boiled strongly we can precipitate the Iron out of solution as an oxide of iron, which will not dissolve in acids, I see what looks like iron oxides in your pictures above in that brown mud (probably iron copper and other metals, also in the ceramic dish with the foils where you say this is as close to incineration as you got.

I believe it is not the boiling hot solution that forms the red insoluble iron oxides, but it seems to me to be the bottom of the vessel where it comes into contact with the burner that cooks the iron out of solution forming the oxide (just speculation here).

This red rouge of iron will not dissolve very easily at all, even in strong acids or combinations of acids like aqua regia (which at time can be a good thing to help us separate our gold from the iron red rouge), other times we want to dissolve the iron away from our gold keeping the iron soluble (iron chloride in this case).

Looking at the picture of your foils in the ceramic dish, by the way the picture does not look anywhere near an incineration to me, you still have acidic chloride salts that have not been incinerated, the iron hydroxide’s and your gold foils, from the picture it just looks like you just dried these, before I would attempt an incineration on this type of material that had come from acidic chloride solutions, I would have rinsed the material and foils in a solution of sodium hydroxide to neutralize any remaining acid(or acidic metal salts), forming a salt water solution, and then rinse the powders very well to remove as much of the traces of chloride salts as I could, as gold chloride

The reason I would try to remove chlorides or any residual HCl is because at high temperatures we can cook off chlorine and HCl from the salts or powders, these gases can dissolve gold or platinum group metals and carry our values off in the fumes.

For an interesting read on this subject, look for the patient by Oskar Erhart (1939 I believe), the patient called process for converting gold, platinum, and other metals of the platinum group into a dissolved form, here he uses a heated jacket reactor, over a burner, with powdered or fine particles of gold and PGM on a shelf sieve above the HCl liquid level he also bubbles chlorine gas into the HCl solution the gases formed from HCl and chlorine pass through the valuable metals dissolve them into the fumes which are condensed back to liquid in the reflux condenser, dripping back through the powders and into the HCl / chlorine solution.


Iron in solution can look like copper in solution green to almost green/black, actually it is fairly easy to have a blackish concentrated solution of iron and copper in the same solution, but if this solution is diluted copper will begin to precipitate out as a whitish copper I chloride.

Iron can also make a pretty yellow solution that can look just like a gold chloride solution.

And as we know if we have a copper chloride solution and if we have elemental Iron it can push the copper back out of solution forming copper metal powders and an Iron chloride solution.

AUH-R,
Actually all in all it looks like you are doing pretty well.
The pictures painted a better picture than your description alone.


With your powders in the ceramic dish on your hot plate, wash them in a dilute hydroxide solution, and hot water washes, let it settle well before decanting the solution, with a suction bulb and pipette.

Through out this process I would leave powders in the dish, only removing liquids of soluble metal solution leaving any insoluble powders, so give them time to settle well.

You do have quite a bit of iron and copper to deal with in those powders, as well as tin and lead.

I would then dry the powders on low heat, raising the heat to high after they are dried, crush the powders after dried, keep them crushed until they finished roasting, use your propane torch and get them glowing red hot, stir the roast well to get plenty of oxygen to oxidize the metals which will also oxidize the tin,.

Before trying to recover your gold from them, we will want to remove the base metals.

Let them cool and give them good boil in HCl after the incineration (taking the solution up with water to remove tin and the soluble chloride metals.
I would try to dissolve as much of the base metals into solution as I could before I tried to put gold into solution,

If the HCl is colored heavily with metals continue with Hot HCl washes till it will pick up no more metal, be sure to let the insoluble powders settle well before you decant liquids.

You can dissolve the lead chloride in boiling hot water rinses.

Moving the decanted solutions to settling jars (any values carried or other insoluble base metal powder will settle in the jar and may need to be reprocessed.

Your lead chloride washes I would keep in a separate settling jar; the lead chloride will crystallize out as a white crystal after the water-cools, if the water is fairly clear after lead settles out the cool water can be returned to the powders and boiled again to pick up more lead (saving on water added to your waste stream).

After you can dissolve no more metals as a chloride solution, and your boiling hot water washes are picking up no more metals (judged by color or cooling lead crystals), your powders should be cleaned up enough to dissolve your gold, you can leave your gold in the ceramic dish, add HCl and small bleach additions to dissolve the gold, just barely warming your solution, after the gold goes into solution raise your heat a little to drive off free chlorine, when you have removed chlorine (here you can test for chlorine gas from the vapors of your solution, with a little ammonia in a lid of the bottle held in the fume of your solution, looking for that white smoke of ammonium chloride), once the chlorine is heated off you can shut off your stove cover your pot and let it settle out any insoluble salts, later decant your gold chloride solution through a filter into a clean jar for precipitating your gold.
 
Hi Butcher, thanks for the great informative pointers. Just to clarify the process you are describing is from the beginning with fresh pins?, as the stage I am at currently at with this particular lot, I believe I have already got rid of the solder.

Update on the cementation:



I have been stirring when I pass and also scraping the powder off the copper, best I can. I will test with Stannous when I get home from work tomorrow and If I get the all clear, I shall decant and filter the solution into a new waste container called SMB waste.

Once I have this powder shall I pick up from your incineration stage? for example; the master plan I have in my head right now to finish this lot is as follows:
1. Incinerate as per your guide.
2. Hot washes.
3. Follow Hoke's chapter 5 guidance - starting with the HNO3 treatment to get rid of the remaining copper.
4. SMB drop.

I had a lovely day off work today, the sun was shining and I did some acquaintance tests with cold HN03, which I found fascinating, surprising and also puzzling:

Firstly according to Hoke copper should be green, but my sample turned blue, I need to repeat this with another piece of copper before I conclude anything:



Brass gave me the colour green as anticipated because of the copper content:



Solder was a slow reaction:



Steel, no visible reaction:



Aluminum, no visible reaction:



Au electroplated, small reaction from the small amount of copper possibly:



I also took a sample of the grey scum, which I believe you suspected of being Lead chloride, I checked it in boiling water no reaction that I noticed. Here is a picture with a couple drops HNO3 added to this substance. It formed a white cloudy solution:





Great day, My wife and I finished some jobs we had in the garden and I got to have some fun for an hour with these tests! most enjoyable.

All the best,
AuH-R
 
Copper nitrate is actually blue, although it can look green if free nitrate is in solution.

When you dissolve lead chloride in boiling hot water, you will not see any reaction, the solution if pure lead chloride will be clear, when the water cools you will see a white precipitate, either long crystal needles or even a white powder.

It is good you are doing these getting acquainted experiments, keep it up with known substances.

you have fine powders this type of gold which will dissolve in HCl/ NaClO (bleach easily), the solution is much easier to deal with than Aqua regia, Aqua regia will work just fine, if you understand how to use it.

yes Incineration of these powders would be one of the most important steps in my opinion, which ever process you choose, it will be beneficial in several ways.

Nice hill garden you have there.
 
Butcher,

Thanks again for your guidance, it helped me back on track:

Waste solution decanted and filtered, after copper bus treatment


All 3 copper bus bars looked the same, turned bright green when dried.


Black powder ready for 2nd attempt.


HN03 treatment - Incineration - + H20 washes looking better.


2nd dissolve in AR, I knew this time things were on the right track as the colour was beautiful.


After 3 evaporations and HCL additions.


4 parts volume H20 added.


SMB was added and I awoke to this lovely sight.


H20 boil washed and decanted probably x10 as I was ultra careful - HCL wash only once - then more H20 washes.


Dried Au powder, ready for melting.


My first Au pea 8) weighing in at 1 gram! I'm one happy man.


Other side.



Thank you so much Butcher for your time, insight and knowledge!

I learnt so much on this journey, things I learnt that come to mind:

1. I need ultra clean, not just soap and water and good to the eye, chemically clean labware.
2. Save my powder and melt in large lots.
3. Incineration and cleaning of material is of the utmost importance, or you will have a headache further down the line.
4. Only use green fibre CPU's if you know that it will cost you a lot of money but on the upside you will learn alot as it is a difficult material, bring on the ceramics and fingers next :)
5. Green fibre yield is 0.005grams of Au per CPU
6. As somebody else said on this forum, don't threat about every bit of Au other wise you will go crazy, like I nearly did by doing 10 boil washes trying to remove every bit of dust, as he said that is the angels bit :)
 
butcher said:
Looking at your pictures I can see you done a great job and have learned a lot.
great job.


Thanks, that means a lot coming from you.

Best wishes,
AuH-R
 
Thanks for the great Post, AUH-R

The best way to complete your refining knowlage after reading Hoke is by conducting experiments around Refining.

You really did a good and clean job ;) Kudos!
 
Hello AUH-R,

I was curious to get a small idea on the yield for fiber cpu pins. Was the 1 gram you succeeded in recovering from 225 grams of pins or 50 grams?

Thanks!
 
Your picture number 7 from top - where you added water. I would add distilled water or I would filter it before SMB as it looked cloudy, maybe it is just me but I just like my auric chloride crystal clear before drop. Button look nice. Good job.
 
Metalgold said:
Hello AUH-R,

I was curious to get a small idea on the yield for fiber cpu pins. Was the 1 gram you succeeded in recovering from 225 grams of pins or 50 grams?

Thanks!

Hi Metalgold,

I have just gone through my records - I processed 181 fibre CPU's, the bulk being mobile P4. I had 225 grams of pins by weight, which I processed in full. I have just recently purchased some scales which are more accurate than the ones I used to weigh my pea. My finished weight is 0.75 grams which is accurate to within 0.02-/+ I also have some bits of Au left in the melting dish.

My yield then is 0.0041 per CPU average. I know I lost Au in filters and also by some mistakes along the way. Hope this helps you.

Best wishes,

patnor1011 said:
Your picture number 7 from top - where you added water. I would add distilled water or I would filter it before SMB as it looked cloudy, maybe it is just me but I just like my auric chloride crystal clear before drop. Button look nice. Good job.

Thanks for the input, it's nice to have positive comments from the experienced members here. You would not believe how hard it is to get distilled water in the UK at a reasonable cost. I refuse to pay the same for water as I do for my HCL at a £1.00 per litre. I have options to make it, but again I'm tight. When I have some time I will start collecting rainwater. Hoke does say that you don't need to use distilled water for any of the procedures in her book. Where I live they don't add fluoride, what would be the difference in purity between what I have now and if I had used distilled water?

Best wishes,
 
AUH-R, when rinsing or washing with water, i always put the all the water in a clean container. you would be surprised at how much more powder will settle out in a weeks time. you may have actually misplaced as much as you reclaimed.
 
Geo said:
AUH-R, when rinsing or washing with water, i always put the all the water in a clean container. you would be surprised at how much more powder will settle out in a weeks time. you may have actually misplaced as much as you reclaimed.

Hi Geo,

I did find that I had more powder in my SMB waste water after a week, also when I was syphoning the hot water off during my washes and after it had settled I was finding some powder. We are talking nothing like half the amount again though. Have you processed green fibre processors before and got a yield of 0.0082 - 0.01 per CPU?

Best wishes,
 
theres a lot of different green fiber processors. pin-less P-4 has the least gold content and if im not too bad off, i believe the AMD athlon 64 x2 has the most. unless you listed every thing you had in the batch,no one could give you an expected yield and even then it would be a guess.

i say you may have misplaced that much because from the time you reclaim the gold, every process you do to it leaves a little gold behind.whether its foils, solutions or powders. every time you stir or transfer or filter. the more experience you have, the less you will misplace.
 
For the reasons Geo posted, I use a gallon jug for my spent AuCl solution, one for the water rinses and one for the HCl washes. I don't mess with them until they're full and then, sometimes, only pour off the top half leaving the sediment in the bottom.

There's quite an accumulation in a couple of them. Don't be too quick to dump ANYTHING!
 
AUH-R, i just read over your journey all at once and would like to give a few pointers for your next batch if you dont mind? i think i would have responded sooner but as it went along over the span of time, things that came to mind got put aside. the dissolution of Kovar pins in hcl is a very time consuming process. the reaction with the iron is slow and the pins are basically a gold tube filled with iron (it helps me to think of them like that) the acid must start dissolving at the open end and work its way up to the tip. as the fresh acid moves up the tube, gasses from the reaction is moving out of the tube. this slows the reaction down even more. one thing i did that helped some was to grind the tips off using an emery wheel while they were still soldered to the base. this allows the acid access from both ends. another thing is adding a little oxidizer to the hcl when heated. i used H2O2 while the hcl was boiling. this converted some of the ferrous chloride (iron(II) chloride) into ferric chloride (iron(III) chloride) which in turn attacked the base metal more aggressively. i wasnt too concerned about dissolving any gold because as long as base metal remained in the solution, the gold would be a solid of some form. remember, it takes nearly a gallon of 32 baume hcl to dissolve two pounds of iron. a quart (946 mil's) should dissolve at least 250g of iron. forcing the acid to dissolve more is possible but unnecessary. when you heat the hcl and it evaporate to a higher concentration, the acid will gas off at one atmosphere quickly. it will emit more fumes in a shorter period of time than an AP bucket (if that is an option) will in a week. have you ever boiled hcl outside on a cool night with no breeze? after a short time, it will look like a fog has rolled in from the ocean. these fumes are still present in the bright daylight, its just less humid and you cant see them. since the fumes are hygroscopic, each tiny drop in the air will soak up several times its size in water. its like seeding a cloud on the ground. try and figure out some kind of fume control. it will save all the metal around where you are working, not to mention, your health.

im sticking with the AP buckets. i mix up a batch of solution from old solution that has sit up for awhile and turned bright emerald green and fresh hcl and drop the whole CPU's (minus heat spreader) in the AP and forget about it. after a week, filter out the floaters and rinse the bases back off into the bucket. rinse with clean water and swirl and pour. repeat until all the loose foils are in the filter. normally not a lot of base metal left. the filter for me is a large plastic colander with a piece of linen cloth for the filter. the liquid pours right through. it makes filtering the tiny flakes much easier later. i use a square plastic wash basin and take the cloth and lay it in the water in the tub foils down. almost all the foils will come off the cloth. i use a separate pan for a second rinse and a wringing out. i can either use the cloth again or put it in the filter bag. the foils will settle quickly in the clean water. decant slowly into a clean bucket.dont try to stop every flake as you will filter the rinse water again. you are trying to get the most you can get as fast as you can. use a coffee filter (if you want to see my filter set up its on my youtube channel at 10464jeff) to filter the rinse water and then move to the AP bucket. start by moving as much solution as possible into another bucket without disturbing any solids in the bottom. gently dip out the solution by submerging the dipper bottom first until liquid pours over the top and fills the vessel. when full, slowly lift the vessel trying not to create a vortex that will suck the foils up. the trick is to go slow. once you are close to the bottom, start pouring the solution through the filter. this will catch any solids down to 5 microns or larger. treat these foils as the ones from the cloth. whew, my carpal tunnel is yelling at me.
 
When I have enough low grade pins, fiber cpus and odds and sods. I will try this method. I think it may be really slow though. I have been soaking 486 lids for over 4 weeks in hcl outside and only now are the foils coming loose.
 
Can gold recovery be done without boiling? I have no hot plate but I have a world of time. So if I just leave the pins in HCL for say a month, topping up regularly. Will that achieve the same?
 
Feenixb1o7 said:
Can gold recovery be done without boiling? I have no hot plate but I have a world of time. So if I just leave the pins in HCL for say a month, topping up regularly. Will that achieve the same?

search for the AP process here on the forum.
 
What I don't get is that HCL doesn't dissolve gold. So why can't I just leave gold plated pins in a HCL solution 'till the rest of the stuff is dissolved leaving the gold foils?
 
Back
Top