solar_plasma
Well-known member
I am slowly moving towards learning the final refining of my gold and in flood of information I get a little bit lost. It is confusing, there are just so many possibilities, which all have pro's and con's.
For the first, ofcourse I don't get more money for many 9's, but I feel it like a kind of apprenticeship certification exam in one field of the subject of gold refining.
My material comes from everything gold containing stuff around me, it is medium brown and will surely still contain all possible contaminants, - proper incinneration, washing and precipitation is easy read but needs time to be learned. I'm not sure, if I also will blend it with gold powder from broken jewelry (inquartation) or dental gold (straight AR if possible).
It is only a first brainstorming for me. It would be a pleasure, if anyone likes to comment or advise.
After all I read I tend to following course:
Removing any basemetals left:
repeated hot full strength lab grade HCl, wash intensively (remove basemetals and Pd)
dissolving in HCl/chlorox (or better AR? I would prefere chlorox)
properly driving off excess chlorine by heating
dillution, filter off AgCl (if any), H2SO4, filtering off PbSO4 (if any)
Now the gold stays in one only beaker, which is used for the rest of the procedure:
precipitation with potassium metabisulfite by avoiding excess (test)
potassium may precipitate Pt (if any) as a complex, but Pt will be left in solution under the oxalic precipitation
Removing PGMs:
wash
redissolving in AR / minimum amount HNO3 / sulfamic acid solution [1] EDIT: better without sulfamic and doing it the old style
precipitation with oxalic acid (http://goldrefiningforum.com/~goldrefi/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=61&t=10827)
decanting/washing
repeated hot full strength lab grade HCl, wash intensively, not filtering but decanting (closely following Harold's description)
test all left over liquids for PMs
melt gold without any flux in clean porcelain crucible, which was prepared with a little melted borax
cast button
EDIT: a pipe and a shiny surface without oxidation or crystallizing are indications for high purity
[1]
Lou:
For the first, ofcourse I don't get more money for many 9's, but I feel it like a kind of apprenticeship certification exam in one field of the subject of gold refining.
My material comes from everything gold containing stuff around me, it is medium brown and will surely still contain all possible contaminants, - proper incinneration, washing and precipitation is easy read but needs time to be learned. I'm not sure, if I also will blend it with gold powder from broken jewelry (inquartation) or dental gold (straight AR if possible).
It is only a first brainstorming for me. It would be a pleasure, if anyone likes to comment or advise.
After all I read I tend to following course:
Removing any basemetals left:
repeated hot full strength lab grade HCl, wash intensively (remove basemetals and Pd)
dissolving in HCl/chlorox (or better AR? I would prefere chlorox)
properly driving off excess chlorine by heating
dillution, filter off AgCl (if any), H2SO4, filtering off PbSO4 (if any)
Now the gold stays in one only beaker, which is used for the rest of the procedure:
precipitation with potassium metabisulfite by avoiding excess (test)
potassium may precipitate Pt (if any) as a complex, but Pt will be left in solution under the oxalic precipitation
Removing PGMs:
wash
redissolving in AR / minimum amount HNO3 / sulfamic acid solution [1] EDIT: better without sulfamic and doing it the old style
precipitation with oxalic acid (http://goldrefiningforum.com/~goldrefi/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=61&t=10827)
decanting/washing
repeated hot full strength lab grade HCl, wash intensively, not filtering but decanting (closely following Harold's description)
test all left over liquids for PMs
melt gold without any flux in clean porcelain crucible, which was prepared with a little melted borax
cast button
EDIT: a pipe and a shiny surface without oxidation or crystallizing are indications for high purity
[1]
Lou:
Yes, if you add the solid to a beaker or flask which is heated not by steam but by a hot plate or mantle, you risk the decompositon of the sulfamic acid into an ammonium cation, which causes precipitation of ammonium salts of the PGMs. All of those salts re-dissolve (some faster than others) in aggressive AR, but with significant NOx production vis-a-vis oxidation of ammonium ion.
Solution, dissolve the most sulfamic you can in boiling hot water, and slowly add that hot solution in until N2O ebullition ceases. Obviously, the vessel you do this in must be setup to collect acid mists or you will have values lost in entrainment from the bubbling/off-gassing.