Gold inside chips (black, flatpacks - not CPU)

Gold Refining Forum

Help Support Gold Refining Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
This silicone dies from inside IC chips are not the best material they contain only traces of values like bits of brazing where wires were attached. I do remove them and collect them in a bucket to run them one day when it may be worth my time. I do remove them as if they are intact it is pretty easy to pick them up compared to milling them to powder. They are like glass and harder to mill than an incinerated body of IC.
 
You can clean resulted concentrate with different methods. There will be some copper
pins and tin. I have decided to wash that first in Nitric acid. After wash in warm
diluted HNO3 (30%), I incinerated concentrate (make material red hot but do not
melt in homogenous mass). After that I washed that in Hydrochloric (also called
Muriatic) acid 32%.

How much time and temperature needed for incineration in this step?
One hour or 30 minutes in 700°C is OK?

What is the purpose of incineration in this step? Rid of nitric acid?
 
Hi
1- Why we must pyrolysis chips (in absence of oxygen) but used filter papers must incinerate in air?
Is it because in filter papers there are gold chloride and silver nitrate?

2- Is it necessary to pyrolysis chips in absence of oxygen? What happens if we incinerate them in air?
 
Incineration of chips produce toxic fumes. That is why it is advised to pyrolize them in absence of oxygen, then incinerate in air.
 
patnor1011 said:
Feel free to tell me about any mistakes as english is not my first language. :)
Hope it is not that bad. I have intention to give all this info free to all forum members and I will put that document on ebay for some small amount to generate some money from which (if I manage to sell some) I will donate to this great forum, and I may get some prize to some contest on forum in future.

*edited spelling and uploaded again

Fellow members, I decided to discontinue free download of my guide upon learning that one forum member stole content and start selling my guide on ebay claiming it is his work. This makes me sick and sad that he is stealing money which were mostly destined to end up as donation for running this forum and to various cases which were brought here by some other members.

*edited again.
Thief will be thief and one day will pay for his deeds. I am not going to take away knowledge which I shared with all of you so here is my guide back where it belong on this forum. Thank you for patience with me today. 6th of August 2012

*edited 10/04/2013
I do have second eBook. This one will not be offered for free, as I try to get as much funds as possible to help Noxx cover cost associated with running this forum. Price is very small, and I think it is worth to pay. Many thousand people benefited from what I gave to community for free already, and I feel great for doing that. It was my way of giving back what I got from here.
Link to more details about how to get my second eBook here:

https://goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=58&t=17967

DO NOT EVEN THINK ABOUT SELLING MY eBOOKS FOR PROFIT. I DO HAVE THEM COPYRIGHTED AND WILL PURSUE EVERY LEGAL OPTION AVAILABLE IF I WILL FIND SOMEBODY TRY TO GET RICH QUICK SELLING SOMETHING HE DO NOT CREATED OR OWN. I WILL ALSO PURSUE ANY DERIVATIVE WORK IF THIS WILL CONTAIN A SINGLE IMAGE OF MY OWN OR THE SAME LAYOUT. THANKS FOR UNDERSTANDING.

Pardon the pun but... this is golden my friend! Much thanks for providing this for others, like myself, who are trying to learn :D At present, I have 40+ lbs (20+ kg) of chips that I'll eventually try to process. But until I'm comfortably ready to attempt to start, I will continue to add to the stash. But this guide will be of a BIG help as a beginning to end guide. Thanks again!
 
I could not believe it has been 11 years since I started this thread :) It feels like ages ago and yet it feels like yesterday too. Time is strange animal. Hope all my old and new friends are good and getting that yellow shiny stuff we all love so much...
 
Slow careful wash to remove only super fine particles which come off as colored dirty water
Hello Pat,

How are you doing? I hope all is well. First of all, many thanks for this beautiful thread. Been going through this for the past 4 5 days.
I just wanted to ask you or anyone reading this post that may have ever sluiced to get the ashes washed off before further processing to obtain the concentrates. My concern here, the one that I specifically faced with this method, is that the ashes turn my water not only dirty but jet black, I'm sure I'm not the only one to have ever faced that. Having said this, since its a recirculating sluice, the dirty water that got heavily contaminated with the ashes makes it way back to the top. And now the whole setup is a mess. How do you deal with this? Given and assuming that the ashes are not pre-treated with buckets or jugs of water before the material is run through this setup.

I did read about you using a cloth somewhere in this thread. So I assume maybe you just wrapped it around the bucket or something, but some ashes that must have dissolved in the water; do they still change the colour of your water or does it remain clean? I ask this because since mine was a total MESS and as much I want to take this route again, I haven't really come across anywhere else on how this concern was treated or catered to before I can re-use it for the same. I really fear losing much of my values using the beaker/jug/bucket-wash-decant gravity separation.

Kindly enhance my knowledge.

Many thanks in advance.
 
Last edited:
Hello Pat,

How are you doing? I hope all is well. First of all, many thanks for this beautiful thread. Been going through this for the past 4 5 days.
I just wanted to ask you or anyone reading this post that may have ever sluiced to get the ashes washed off before further processing to obtain the concentrates. My concern here, the one that I specifically faced with this method, is that the ashes turn my water not only dirty but jet black, I'm sure I'm not the only one to have ever faced that. Having said this, since its a recirculating sluice, the dirty water that got heavily contaminated with the ashes makes it way back to the top. And now the whole setup is a mess. How do you deal with this? Given and assuming that the ashes are not pre-treated with buckets or jugs of water before the material is run through this setup.

I did read about you using a cloth somewhere in this thread. So I assume maybe you just wrapped it around the bucket or something, but some ashes that must have dissolved in the water; do they still change the colour of your water or does it remain clean? I ask this because since mine was a total MESS and as much I want to take this route again, I haven't really come across anywhere else on how this concern was treated or catered to before I can re-use it for the same. I really fear losing much of my values using the beaker/jug/bucket-wash-decant gravity separation.

Kindly enhance my knowledge.

Many thanks in advance.
Hi J,
About the bucket-wash-decant gravity separation:

Put your ashes into a bucket, add a few drops of jet dry (for dish washers) or dish soap and water (fill the bucket 75% max).

Stir well until all clumps of ash are dissolved.

Wait a minute.
All heavy stuff will settle (even bond wires stuck in crumbs of ash).

Decant the dirty water into a second bucket.

Refill the first bucket with water and a few drops of jet dry.
Stir well and let it settle again for a minute.
Meanwhile, the stuff in the second bucket has settled. Dump the dirty water but leave the last sediment on the bottom of the bucket.

Decant the dirty water from the first bucket into the second bucket.

After five to seven runs, the water should be nearly clean.

Combine the sediments of both buckets and do your sluiceing.

Try to get white buckets for better contrast.

Good luck!
 
Well, all is good but as we age we seems to have less and less time so not enough time for everything :)
I let dirty water to go to a bucket with cloth on top and then it pass to a bigger square container where anything what escaped cloth do have a chance to settle. Water is then extracted on other side of container and it is fairly clean. That sluice and pump I used is quite slow so not a lot of water rush through and there is a time for stuff to settle before water is reused.
Here is short video I made some time ago.

 
Hi J,
About the bucket-wash-decant gravity separation:

Put your ashes into a bucket, add a few drops of jet dry (for dish washers) or dish soap and water (fill the bucket 75% max).

Stir well until all clumps of ash are dissolved.

Wait a minute.
All heavy stuff will settle (even bond wires stuck in crumbs of ash).

Decant the dirty water into a second bucket.

Refill the first bucket with water and a few drops of jet dry.
Stir well and let it settle again for a minute.
Meanwhile, the stuff in the second bucket has settled. Dump the dirty water but leave the last sediment on the bottom of the bucket.

Decant the dirty water from the first bucket into the second bucket.

After five to seven runs, the water should be nearly clean.

Combine the sediments of both buckets and do your sluiceing.

Try to get white buckets for better contrast.

Good luck!
Hello there brother,

Thanks for the detailed reply, this has been put out as exactly as I'd thought, but dumping the water again and again seems like too much water may have to be used for this process alone along with the no guarantee that I'll be saving up everything... Anyhow I'll follow these instructions as well as try to replicate as Patnor has done too and see which one may work out with better results. Sluicing I'll be doing anyways. :)
 
Well, all is good but as we age we seems to have less and less time so not enough time for everything :)
I let dirty water to go to a bucket with cloth on top and then it pass to a bigger square container where anything what escaped cloth do have a chance to settle. Water is then extracted on other side of container and it is fairly clean. That sluice and pump I used is quite slow so not a lot of water rush through and there is a time for stuff to settle before water is reused.
Here is short video I made some time ago.


Hello again,

Your time for such responses is highly valued and more than sufficient enough on its own. Much detailed posts earlier by seniors like you and quite a number of others have already given us a lot of information to not only get started but keep moving forward. Your reply here has made a vague picture clarified, in that I can most certainly perform this action with some confidence bearing the information in mind.

Here is short video I made some time ago.
This was seven years ago.. I just wish I had started all of this back then and not wasted away so many years like that.

For all your work sir, Thankyou so much :)
 
This silicone dies from inside IC chips are not the best material they contain only traces of values like bits of brazing where wires were attached. I do remove them and collect them in a bucket to run them one day when it may be worth my time. I do remove them as if they are intact it is pretty easy to pick them up compared to milling them to powder. They are like glass and harder to mill than an incinerated body of IC.
Hi Patnor, if you have enough of various hard materials to mill, you may want to try one of these. Mine is very helpful. I've used it on chips and dies, used it on ores. I used to use a cement mixer and large ball bearings, but after testing filtrates and water, I was losing too much value. The Mighty Mill actually agglomerates fine gold into visible flakes, too, like gathering up dough into a ball from little pieces as you mix bread, so that may help make recovery from dies less tedious. I attach a rubber hose and feed the pulverized material through my classifying screens, then onward to the next steps in my process depending on what I'm running. An angle grinder powers it, and I mount it on a tree stump for stability. MIGHTY MILL portable mini rock crusher for gold prospecting, sampling, frit NEW! | eBay Temporarily out of stock- if interested, the owner is very happy to discuss his units and your application. These are usually $375 USD in eBay. A used cement mixer and a bag of recycled large bearings is probably a lot less dear, as are used industrial spice/coffee mills such as I see in eBay.

I'll use it to break up slag from my current project-- refining Braggite nuggets pyrolitically, several kg. I get mine from my claim in the Beartooth mountain area in Montana, and the upper great lakes in the USA and Canada. The slag predictably will be very valuable at certain stages in the process, as will be the cupels. Be sure to wear an N-95 pr N-99 mask, the dust is always a respiratory hazard. Limerick is dark with my mother's family, Baillehannon used to be. If you visit the Lesser Orkney Isles, be sure to visit Inis Rum. You may find Braggite there. A manual bazooka dredge, a nugget detector, a powerful magnet, classifying, and panning tools may help.
 
Hi Guys

Just adding some insight here from a guy whohas some insider knowledge of IC development.

MOST silicon IC's produced after 2015 use Copper Palladium bond wires. There are still some out there that are gold, but you want OLD stuff, not new stuff. SOME automotive grade devices will still use gold bond wires, but it's getting fewer and fewer as we are seeing extended testing with CuPd showing no adverse reactions to product lifespan.

Now - space and ultra high temp stuff is a different story, but those parts cost HUNDREDS of dollars each.

Since I have access to bulk quantities of both, I'll start doing some research on aged versus new devices for us, instead of wasting $ and time.

But - that grinder thingy is really cool! I want a ball grinder since I have #'s and #'s and #'s of old IC's with gold bond wires.
 
Hi Guys

Just adding some insight here from a guy whohas some insider knowledge of IC development.

MOST silicon IC's produced after 2015 use Copper Palladium bond wires. There are still some out there that are gold, but you want OLD stuff, not new stuff. SOME automotive grade devices will still use gold bond wires, but it's getting fewer and fewer as we are seeing extended testing with CuPd showing no adverse reactions to product lifespan.

Now - space and ultra high temp stuff is a different story, but those parts cost HUNDREDS of dollars each.

Since I have access to bulk quantities of both, I'll start doing some research on aged versus new devices for us, instead of wasting $ and time.

But - that grinder thingy is really cool! I want a ball grinder since I have #'s and #'s and #'s of old IC's with gold bond wires.


The Mighty Mill has very tough bearings, and you'll lose less material than with most ball grinders, especially cement mixers. Drawback is-- it's a small batch tool. Most of what I run has to be done in small batches to contain losses. Besides losing money, you can be spreading toxic materials with leaky milling equipment. It sometimes can be very deadly, like dust containing Be-Cu, PGMS, arsenic, etc. You need very good seals, respiratory protection and clean up supplies. I just finished refining some ore from my claims. Have some very cool semi-retired PGM chunks (holding on to those until I have the correct hi temp burner, forge, tools to process larger amounts). I painstakingly refined an expensive by-product, about a gram of osmium, too. And gold, silver, a bit of rhodium and iridium and a few grams of palladium. I'll post a few photos soon. I have to reduce my method to an algorithm, a formulaic method. Will post that, too. And my thanks to all members whose suggestions helped me get this far. Besides the ores, I'll be working on chips, then 50 kilos of gold fill and gold plate, and five kilos of rhodium plated.
 
The Mighty Mill actually agglomerates fine gold into visible flakes, too, like gathering up dough into a ball from little pieces as you mix bread

If your doing legged IC's this would be a problem. Any base metals would also get balled up with the gold. Once that happens the only way to separate them is large amount of acids. BGA style chips (with out the solder balls) maybe okay, but there will still be some copper to deal with.

I've never used one of those crushers so I'm not sure how the tiny hair like bonding wires will react with this method....since I never used one, then I could be wrong.
 
Back
Top