Gold tipped ribbon cables and gold on mylars
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Hi, if I don't have stannous chloride and I only have a roll of Stanium 97 percent and 3 percent copper could I make stannous solution with it and HCL ? Any experience with that?
There are no such thing as Stanium as far as I know, unless someone has named something Stanium. Stannous Chloride is Tin (Sn) dissolved in HCl.
You need to get your names and conventions correct when you are talking about chemicals.
Yes, I meant Tin solid because I saw a crystal form. Would it be ok to use that 97 percent with 3 percent copper to make the solution?
You can of course buy crystalline Stannous Chloride, but for our use it is not necessary.
Why do you want copper in it?
It will probably work but why add something you do not need?
Where do the Idea of copper come from?
Do you have copper alloyed Tin is that it?
I'm just a bit baffled.
Why do you want copper in it?
It will probably work but why add something you do not need?
Where do the Idea of copper come from?
Do you have copper alloyed Tin is that it?
I'm just a bit baffled.
kurtak
Well-known member
I believe here is talking about using 97% tin 3% copper solder for making his stannous
IF (the BIG IF) that is the case - yes it will work for making stannous --- the HCl should dissolve the tin & leave the copper as a black powder
Even IF (the BIG IF again) the HCl should dissolve that little bit of copper it won't effect the results of the stannous test --- Edit to add; - after all we test solutions all the time that have LOTS of copper in them
I have always used the 95% tin 5% antimony solder for making my stannous
Kurt
I use tin fishing sinkers often and I have a large roll of 95/5 Tin antimony solder. Both work well and I used to run those cable ends, when trimmed, straight into AR. The copper content never stopped either alloy from detecting gold in solution. As mentioned don’t expect much from them other than a good learning experience.
kurtak
Well-known member
So you are actually using the CuCl2 process
just that you are using heat to drive the reaction instead of an air bubbler --- & as we know - heat drives a reaction better then cold does
Alondro - I don't mean to pick on you &/or be disrespectful - but - that is not a big batch - in fact 1 pound of fingers is considered (recommended) as the "small" batch starting point for new members to do in/for the learning process
1 pound of fingers will give a new (learning) member enough gold (about 1.5 grams) for the learning process without worrying about suffering a big loss - IF (the BIG IF) they screw up in the process of learning
Then - once they have success with the "small" 1 pound batch - we recommend they move up to a "mid" size 3 - 5 pound batch - after succeeding at a mid size batch they are then ready to move up to larger batches & or even "big" batches
When you start recovering (plus/minus) an ozt gold (about 20 - 21 pounds of fingers) you are starting to work on a larger batch level
2 or more ozt recovery is when you have moved up to playing with the big batch boys - and - at that point you are better served moving away from doing them with acids & going with cyanide leaching
Again - I am not trying to be nit picky &/or disrespectful - I am simply pointing out that there is a BIG difference between working at a hobby/learning level - & working at a "successful" refiners level
A successful refiners level is when you start working in batches that "actually" pay you back a profit for your time, chemicals & equipment investment - you are not even close to that yet
And to clarify - there is nothing wrong with working at a hobby level
Kurt
I have a roll of tin solder which contains 97 tin and 3 percent copper
I meant to say Stannum (SN)
The answer is, yes it will work.
Dave
Dave
Sorry, I think I did not see your post, I have a few kilos which I have put in a big plastic jar and covered it with HCL of 55 percent, after a few day I have added 500ml of H202 of 3 percent, now it is about 22 days and there are many tiny flakes floating but most of the fingers did not come off, it has been cold and I had the jar pretty closed not air tight but closed, I realize that way the oxygen did not get to it , I was expecting about 3 weeks but because of the relative coold days the process is slow.
I used to run these in AR. Trimmed close and mixed with other types of ribbon ends as well. It isn’t a pretty method but the materials are very low grade. I stopped doing them when I started getting larger quantities of almost any material of better quality. With a large batch they can be good to learn from.
my initial plan was to use AR but since I am a beginner I took the advice of a known youtuber which seemed reasonable knowledgeable which said the solution would be too dirty, now it has been a few weeks since I have added the peroxide and not sure if I could add now a bit of nitric to make AR? I wanted to keep only one type of material because I am also filming the whole story. Not sure what the substrate contains. There are already tiny flakes floating and when I stir with a long glass rod, the floating gold sticks to it. I figured if I don't add nitric I could reuse the HCL after filtering.
Off the top of my head …..
I would add an aquarium air pump, smallest or cheapest I could find. Use a container large enough to have good head room in case it try’s to foam up and to hold any splashes from the bursting bubbles. I use watch glasses personally. Or sit the whole thing in a large bucket. The air pump will give you a steady supply of oxidizer and allow your copper(II)chloride to work better. If the solution is real dark or brown add some hydrochloric to it. If after four days I still had foils floating test with stannous chloride, if negative, filter and add filter and all contents to AR. If positive, making very small additions, add nitric and dissolve everything completely. Personally I use sulfamic acid to denox, other methods work as well. In this “dirty” solution I prefer to use copperas to drop with. Copperas will have less drag down of contaminants than smb. Make the drop, if it turns dark, almost black, let it sit until it is has no cloudiness at all. Gently Siphon or decant the liquid without disturbing the settled powders. Wash the powders until no signs of acids or discoloration remains. You should now be ready to start your refine process. Start by adding the contents from either process to AR…..
No need to wash if you have the filter left. Run it in AR and use the pulp to increase the filters ability to hold the contaminants once you reach that point.
Hope that makes sense.
I would add an aquarium air pump, smallest or cheapest I could find. Use a container large enough to have good head room in case it try’s to foam up and to hold any splashes from the bursting bubbles. I use watch glasses personally. Or sit the whole thing in a large bucket. The air pump will give you a steady supply of oxidizer and allow your copper(II)chloride to work better. If the solution is real dark or brown add some hydrochloric to it. If after four days I still had foils floating test with stannous chloride, if negative, filter and add filter and all contents to AR. If positive, making very small additions, add nitric and dissolve everything completely. Personally I use sulfamic acid to denox, other methods work as well. In this “dirty” solution I prefer to use copperas to drop with. Copperas will have less drag down of contaminants than smb. Make the drop, if it turns dark, almost black, let it sit until it is has no cloudiness at all. Gently Siphon or decant the liquid without disturbing the settled powders. Wash the powders until no signs of acids or discoloration remains. You should now be ready to start your refine process. Start by adding the contents from either process to AR…..
No need to wash if you have the filter left. Run it in AR and use the pulp to increase the filters ability to hold the contaminants once you reach that point.
Hope that makes sense.
Agreed. More than 3-4 lb and you are losing the comfort and safety of beakers
moving to more uncertain waters of buckets, spilling solutions and splashes, siphoning tubes and lenghty operations.
