What scares me about the HCl <hydrogenchloride) drain cleaner you posted the MSDS(?) on is the alcohols (organics), and the ammines (which to me means ammonia type compound's), what you have been working with sounds more dangerous to me than working with nitric acid properly.
As always butcher has the best answer xD But all of you point out various important things.^^this statement is what i came here for. Please tell me what it is in relation to this process(liquid gold or mush...likely a mix of all metals suspended in a gel in the solution), what is wrong, what is a better way, summarize your view and feelings, Note any personal observations, opinion's welcome...Should i avoid it...~why~
Props to buchers and the many others who addressed this. In it's entirety. Alot of what i have learned here i could not have answered in any other way. It was specific to my situation, not in a guide. Or forum post i've seen yet. Maybe related, but not specific enough to address the concerns or issues.
Ammonia and silver oxide(SNAox?)...is dangerous. it can go boom by itself. A previous reply mentioned this, and i've read in wiki and other posts about this and the processes needed to make it happen, fewer discussing how to avoid it or stop/correct it.
Ammonia and chlorine in tap water...dangerous vapors. Must be ventilateted at all times and concentrations kept extremely low even in an outdoor setting. ~Can easily kill you.~
HCL at 10% in this product. less then 1% pw/v of other ingredients...mixing with filtered water, brita..o.01+/-% pw/v of chlorine and reactive metals...per liter of water. 0.500 liters plus 1 ox. cleaner product. with metals present to monitor any immediate action. when diluted completely and let sit for 1 -2 weeks .. adds 1-2 drops sulfiric acid (battery acid-unknown concentration-) and 2-3 caps of coke. which contains phosphoric acid and citric acid, again in unkown concentrations. In a 12oz plastic cup. It's mostly water. Obviously i shouldn't be dealing with anything in unknown concentrations or materials...but beggars can't be choosers, or can we if we have the information available..??. I need to know what works...If i can't find documentation, it'll have to be personal observations at my own risk. With as much safety precautions as possible no matter how ridiculous it may seem at first thought..
At these concentrations...any possible vapors produced with the level of ventilation i have, over 12,000 btu's would be less then 0.001 ppm air concentration. Far below any known health concerns. And much lower then current air concentrations any where on this planet. BTW butcher, by environmental impacts, i meant things that were otherwise illegally dumped or would have ended up in a land fill even though state laws impose fines or charge you to dump it. Any material that can be re-used has no business going near a landfill. Any company who does so for profit should pay-out to their contributors. no matter how small and should be market value unless otherwise noted for quality control...Sure a little bit should go back into the planet...But there are some things that we made, that shouldn't go or be in such high concentrations. I also recycle the acid solution in various stages of dilution. I don't let it dry out. Keep them sealed when possible...always vented room and temp controlled room. Never flushed or poured down a drain or mixed with other mixes or acids etc. It kills fish =c and i love the james river and Chesapeake bay. Anything that would reduce pollutants there...is probably gonna be appreciated by humans and animals xD
Sulfuric acid will break down to nitric acid. as i have read recently...particularly if heated. even by chemical process...With this mix you will want to avoid it. Keep it cool. Monitor of reactivity. Do not directly inhale any ammount. The alchohol's make the vapor action happen faster, and dilute more quickly in air. It also makes it more easily absorbed by your body. Given this. it is still more safe by multitudes of several thousands..over > nitric acid of any volume or concentration.
nitric acid is by it's nature an unstable element. And highly reactive. To everything. Includeing you and the space around it.
If i stop now and add concentrated hcl...even after thorough rinseing... I risk a chemical reaction...hyproammoinia perclorite or something could be made Another boomer, all by itself...highly unstable... <correct anything you feel is wrong. If any silver is present in oxidized form. Which nitric acid would produce.
A weak solution as i have it. would simply break down all materials until the point where the solution neutralizes...Don't be mislead by that. it's still very dangerous to handle or be around without good ventilation...it's the chemical process is no longer very strong. And the oxidation and acids have been converted to some other material. I would have to let this stuff be panned out with filtered or distilled water several times, over a period of time without letting it dry out, in order to deal with it in a more professional manner, and break it further down to gold of more pure form. This is what i intend to do.
The mixture will continue to be diluted and used as an initial break down of raw materials, to separate left over materials and alloys/ rinse /release /precipitation/chleateing agent. Nothing more then water will be added to it and i will label it so.
Yes any more gold i plan to break down will be a separate process. And another thread. Because i'm a noob. And crave human interaction over books or pages of text. Even though we sometimes make pages of text here. It usually addresses questions or uncertainties.Anyone doing such thing as this should be able to do so, as it's some means of closer supervision from more experienced people... I will read as much as i can daily, and observe my results with this mix. I'm finally getting more complete foils after the 3rd half dilution with filtered tap water...I'm guessing the chlorine is reacting with the ammonia and hcl. Maybe even a small ammount of nitric acid...not sure what phosphoric acid and citric acid could break down to. Which is stupid to do. But i have no documentation stating the mix is highly reactive...to metals or other acids. So there is only a bit of any kind of certainty...until i learn more or blow myself up trying...In any case i'd post or somehow document it myself if and when i can. Some how this is aiding in the release of the foils through better reactivity to the nickel /tin and silver? Of the ram chips. and cpu's...
The cpu pins are now completely cleaned down to a copper looking material... still highly magnetic. Is beryilum copper magnetic? I've had a few gold mica? oxidize black in solution, but then when exposed to air it turns gold again...I've re-diped this 3-4 times in the current mix.
The printer cables and gold ? mica, nothing...I'm guessing this is a higher Karet. A guide suggests that a hydrochloride + chlorine should do the trick. ?
Is there anything better then water to help release the gold and other metals from the goo? sugar, silicon/polymer coatings? whatever ingredients that aren't listed that were meant to hold a gel form?? How do we figure out what it could be?
Right now it's kinda this white / yellow colored stuff that settles quickly, gets all over anything in there. Water alone helps, but it's basically shifting it around. I can remove a good ammount of material from it, but it's still in the stored bottles...I wonder how much of what is left in there. I know if i keep rinseing it I get the bits of gold flake, for me, still worth processing. From what i've been hearing i shouldn't add anything else to it. But at what point is it ok...and how will i test it to know?
As always butcher has the best answer xD But all of you point out various important things.^^this statement is what i came here for. Please tell me what it is in relation to this process(liquid gold or mush...likely a mix of all metals suspended in a gel in the solution), what is wrong, what is a better way, summarize your view and feelings, Note any personal observations, opinion's welcome...Should i avoid it...~why~
Props to buchers and the many others who addressed this. In it's entirety. Alot of what i have learned here i could not have answered in any other way. It was specific to my situation, not in a guide. Or forum post i've seen yet. Maybe related, but not specific enough to address the concerns or issues.
Ammonia and silver oxide(SNAox?)...is dangerous. it can go boom by itself. A previous reply mentioned this, and i've read in wiki and other posts about this and the processes needed to make it happen, fewer discussing how to avoid it or stop/correct it.
Ammonia and chlorine in tap water...dangerous vapors. Must be ventilateted at all times and concentrations kept extremely low even in an outdoor setting. ~Can easily kill you.~
HCL at 10% in this product. less then 1% pw/v of other ingredients...mixing with filtered water, brita..o.01+/-% pw/v of chlorine and reactive metals...per liter of water. 0.500 liters plus 1 ox. cleaner product. with metals present to monitor any immediate action. when diluted completely and let sit for 1 -2 weeks .. adds 1-2 drops sulfiric acid (battery acid-unknown concentration-) and 2-3 caps of coke. which contains phosphoric acid and citric acid, again in unkown concentrations. In a 12oz plastic cup. It's mostly water. Obviously i shouldn't be dealing with anything in unknown concentrations or materials...but beggars can't be choosers, or can we if we have the information available..??. I need to know what works...If i can't find documentation, it'll have to be personal observations at my own risk. With as much safety precautions as possible no matter how ridiculous it may seem at first thought..
At these concentrations...any possible vapors produced with the level of ventilation i have, over 12,000 btu's would be less then 0.001 ppm air concentration. Far below any known health concerns. And much lower then current air concentrations any where on this planet. BTW butcher, by environmental impacts, i meant things that were otherwise illegally dumped or would have ended up in a land fill even though state laws impose fines or charge you to dump it. Any material that can be re-used has no business going near a landfill. Any company who does so for profit should pay-out to their contributors. no matter how small and should be market value unless otherwise noted for quality control...Sure a little bit should go back into the planet...But there are some things that we made, that shouldn't go or be in such high concentrations. I also recycle the acid solution in various stages of dilution. I don't let it dry out. Keep them sealed when possible...always vented room and temp controlled room. Never flushed or poured down a drain or mixed with other mixes or acids etc. It kills fish =c and i love the james river and Chesapeake bay. Anything that would reduce pollutants there...is probably gonna be appreciated by humans and animals xD
Sulfuric acid will break down to nitric acid. as i have read recently...particularly if heated. even by chemical process...With this mix you will want to avoid it. Keep it cool. Monitor of reactivity. Do not directly inhale any ammount. The alchohol's make the vapor action happen faster, and dilute more quickly in air. It also makes it more easily absorbed by your body. Given this. it is still more safe by multitudes of several thousands..over > nitric acid of any volume or concentration.
nitric acid is by it's nature an unstable element. And highly reactive. To everything. Includeing you and the space around it.
If i stop now and add concentrated hcl...even after thorough rinseing... I risk a chemical reaction...hyproammoinia perclorite or something could be made Another boomer, all by itself...highly unstable... <correct anything you feel is wrong. If any silver is present in oxidized form. Which nitric acid would produce.
A weak solution as i have it. would simply break down all materials until the point where the solution neutralizes...Don't be mislead by that. it's still very dangerous to handle or be around without good ventilation...it's the chemical process is no longer very strong. And the oxidation and acids have been converted to some other material. I would have to let this stuff be panned out with filtered or distilled water several times, over a period of time without letting it dry out, in order to deal with it in a more professional manner, and break it further down to gold of more pure form. This is what i intend to do.
The mixture will continue to be diluted and used as an initial break down of raw materials, to separate left over materials and alloys/ rinse /release /precipitation/chleateing agent. Nothing more then water will be added to it and i will label it so.
Yes any more gold i plan to break down will be a separate process. And another thread. Because i'm a noob. And crave human interaction over books or pages of text. Even though we sometimes make pages of text here. It usually addresses questions or uncertainties.Anyone doing such thing as this should be able to do so, as it's some means of closer supervision from more experienced people... I will read as much as i can daily, and observe my results with this mix. I'm finally getting more complete foils after the 3rd half dilution with filtered tap water...I'm guessing the chlorine is reacting with the ammonia and hcl. Maybe even a small ammount of nitric acid...not sure what phosphoric acid and citric acid could break down to. Which is stupid to do. But i have no documentation stating the mix is highly reactive...to metals or other acids. So there is only a bit of any kind of certainty...until i learn more or blow myself up trying...In any case i'd post or somehow document it myself if and when i can. Some how this is aiding in the release of the foils through better reactivity to the nickel /tin and silver? Of the ram chips. and cpu's...
The cpu pins are now completely cleaned down to a copper looking material... still highly magnetic. Is beryilum copper magnetic? I've had a few gold mica? oxidize black in solution, but then when exposed to air it turns gold again...I've re-diped this 3-4 times in the current mix.
The printer cables and gold ? mica, nothing...I'm guessing this is a higher Karet. A guide suggests that a hydrochloride + chlorine should do the trick. ?
Is there anything better then water to help release the gold and other metals from the goo? sugar, silicon/polymer coatings? whatever ingredients that aren't listed that were meant to hold a gel form?? How do we figure out what it could be?
Right now it's kinda this white / yellow colored stuff that settles quickly, gets all over anything in there. Water alone helps, but it's basically shifting it around. I can remove a good ammount of material from it, but it's still in the stored bottles...I wonder how much of what is left in there. I know if i keep rinseing it I get the bits of gold flake, for me, still worth processing. From what i've been hearing i shouldn't add anything else to it. But at what point is it ok...and how will i test it to know?