Non-Chemical New

[war_child]

Awesome! Thank you. I know I can go get muratic acid and bleach for the store. But can I buy stannous from a local store or is it easier to order on-line. I seen it on a link attached to the forum.

As FrugalRefiner has suggested, I grabbed a roll of this stuff. It is commonly found in hardware stores; I bought mine from Meynard's, I believe. It was in the same isle as torches. I figured 95% tin should be a high enough purity of tin to make stannous, though I'm not sure if the antimony has any affect or needs any consideration.

 

[Martijn]

Disinfo alert!!!
Stop advising things you do not understand.
Very dangerous and not contributing to the reliability of this forum!!!

Good luck. You can use Nitric/HCl to dissolve the copper but leave the gold in the solution. Often Nitric alone 68% can dissolve the copper and leave you with gold. Bleach and HCl would produce chlorine that would drop out gold if you used SO2 gas. (SO2 gas generator with Sodium metabisulfite and Acid). A tin (2) chloride test or a gold test kit would be recommended for other metals.

Unless something is stamped on eBay and is pure gold i would not buy that from ebay. Lots of Chinese sellers will sell Brass and pass it off as gold.

Dissolve copper, but keep?? gold in solution?!!?
This sign '/' means OR. HCl does not dissolve copper.

If there is fake gold being sold there sure are fake stamps too. Do not trust anyone or anything untill you have confirmation the seller is legit. Especially from E bay.

Besides some obvious chinese or african scammers;
Criminal behaviour is a human trade, so are ignorance, gullibility and stupidity.

Think before you act. Or write. Please.

 

[eaglekeeper]

As FrugalRefiner has suggested, I grabbed a roll of this stuff. It is commonly found in hardware stores; I bought mine from Meynard's, I believe. It was in the same isle as torches. I figured 95% tin should be a high enough purity of tin to make stannous, though I'm not sure if the antimony has any affect or needs any consideration.

I use the same type of solder. The antimony/any flux should just settle to the bottom and can be filtered off if you feel the need. If your using an eye dropper bottle then you'll need to filter or decant.

 

[goldshark]

Looking at the pictures you posted, it is hard to tell if it is Gold foil, leafing, or Gold faux ( imitation ) paint. Unfortunately from the pictures, it does look like a faux paint. I do hope it is real, as I know how much work you are into it for. Leaf and foil will have a smooth as glass appearance, as it will apply as smooth as the surface it is applied to. The pictures you posted looked like it had a variegated surface, indicating paint. Another hint is whether or not it came from say a lawyers, doctors, or other high end office, as leafing is about twice what bullion would cost per ounce, just for the material. Add labor costs, and it adds up fast. That is why usually just a name is applied, and not the field. Best of luck, keep us posted, as this is how we all learn. Thanks. As indicated by other poster ( can't remember their handle), try hitting a small sample lightly with a propane torch to incinerate, in well ventilated area of course. Gold will remain gold, paint will most likely turn black, and go up in flames. Remember you will have some sizing adhesive attached, so upon incineration, the foils may have some black stuck to it. If you have a furnace, or access to one, put in crucible with some borax, melt at 2000 F, pour into a mold, and hammer off the borax slag. Then refine or sell as is, depending on how interested you are in going all the way to a couple of 9's.

 

[Greasemonkey80]

I do think everyone for sharing their information. As of this moment I have not had the time to further test the foil. But as soon as I do I will post an update about the test. And I’m sure some of you will get tired of me asking questions before I attempt to recover the gold. That way I can have more time to spend with the process and the chemicals. I only like to wing it if I have a full understanding of the task at hand and all chemical mixes not only for my safety but everyone also. Thanks again

 

[Greasemonkey80]

Looking at the pictures you posted, it is hard to tell if it is Gold foil, leafing, or Gold faux ( imitation ) paint. Unfortunately from the pictures, it does look like a faux paint. I do hope it is real, as I know how much work you are into it for. Leaf and foil will have a smooth as glass appearance, as it will apply as smooth as the surface it is applied to. The pictures you posted looked like it had a variegated surface, indicating paint. Another hint is whether or not it came from say a lawyers, doctors, or other high end office, as leafing is about twice what bullion would cost per ounce, just for the material. Add labor costs, and it adds up fast. That is why usually just a name is applied, and not the field. Best of luck, keep us posted, as this is how we all learn. Thanks. As indicated by other poster ( can't remember their handle), try hitting a small sample lightly with a propane torch to incinerate, in well ventilated area of course. Gold will remain gold, paint will most likely turn black, and go up in flames. Remember you will have some sizing adhesive attached, so upon incineration, the foils may have some black stuck to it. If you have a furnace, or access to one, put in crucible with some borax, melt at 2000 F, pour into a mold, and hammer off the borax slag. Then refine or sell as is, depending on how interested you are in going all the way to a couple of 9's.

It’s hard to tell, here is a closer pic of the front and the back side of the glass. And if I’m not mistaking these windows were manufactured in the early 1980’s they were not yet installed in anything. As far as burning a piece to see if the gold remains I tried that when I first start messing with it but it is impossible to get a piece big enough to really be able to tell.

 

[Greasemonkey80]

Try using the silver test reagent, it is nitric acid based and will dissolve all base metals, leaving gold in foil or particulate form.
Put a tiny sample in a plastic spoon or on your scratch stone, add a drop and observe.

Janie

I will do this. And thank you for the information.

 

[Greasemonkey80]

When you're at the store, buy a little solder. The higher the percentage of tin in it, the better, but any solder will work. Dissolve some of the tin in the same muriatic acid (no bleach needed). Put the tin in a tiny bottle, add the HCl, and warn it a bit till it starts bubbling. Leave it uncapped till it stops bubbling. The HCl creates fumes that destroy most metals, so keep it all away from anything you don't want destroyed.

Dave

Thank you for the information