Noob Disaster or on the Right Track?
- Thread starter BuggyMan
- Start date
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Before/After the Stannous test...
Direct image url https://www.dropbox.com/sc/muhdjxgsfm8712n/AADLn0KkAWZ4dwA6HS9l4c2Qa
Direct image url https://www.dropbox.com/sc/muhdjxgsfm8712n/AADLn0KkAWZ4dwA6HS9l4c2Qa
I noticed on the label of the Muriatic acid, it says "90% lower fumes then standard Muriatic Acid". You might read the label and see what else is in there and what concentration it is. That may or may not affect the process.
When you have an acidic solution with metals dissolved in it, and you raise the PH high enough, to maybe 12 or so, all of the metals will precipitate out of the solution. I think clean water has a PH of around 7, Ammonia is around 11.5, and 32% Muriatic acid is -1.
http://www.sciencebuddies.org/science-fair-projects/project_ideas/Chem_AcidsBasespHScale.shtml
http://www.sciencebuddies.org/science-fair-projects/project_ideas/Chem_AcidsBasespHScale.shtml
Pantherlikher
Well-known member
Greetings BuggyMan, and welcome in.
You seem to have the gold bug like the rest of us.
Good and bad that is. Bad because it leads to impatience. Gotta find out now, before learning.
It really blows gold dust outa the crucible.
You dove in head first like every one of us have and are still in that diving mode.
Back the truck up and think about this...
You started with depopulated cell phone boards...and some fingers.
How did you depopulate and how did you get rid of solder that migrated into the cell phone boards?
If everything went into your AP(Acid/peroxide) mix, your gold and everything else pretty much dissolved and is hiding somewhere.
Go back and search for AP and study why we barely use any peroxide and add O2 and how it's added.
Reading through just that line of postings will answer most of your current questions. Allot of posts start out with a mess and solutions as to what to do and why. You need to learn the why so you can learn how to fix what you did.
The posts so far trying to help you have been addressing your next questions but not addressing the process itself on how you got there.
Confusing me enough to step back and rethink.
You have testing solution which is great. Use it and see the reactions of your solutions. Don't worry what it means what right now.
Look at it as your first experiment on your path to learning how and why.
For now, concentrate on reading AP. Your solutions, you can put on low heat and evaporate down the volume. Do NOT boil... Boiling creates loss. And please make sure you control the fumes so everyone around is safe.
Learn this and your answers will make cents...literally in the long run.
B.S.
Good luck
You seem to have the gold bug like the rest of us.
Good and bad that is. Bad because it leads to impatience. Gotta find out now, before learning.
It really blows gold dust outa the crucible.
You dove in head first like every one of us have and are still in that diving mode.
Back the truck up and think about this...
You started with depopulated cell phone boards...and some fingers.
How did you depopulate and how did you get rid of solder that migrated into the cell phone boards?
If everything went into your AP(Acid/peroxide) mix, your gold and everything else pretty much dissolved and is hiding somewhere.
Go back and search for AP and study why we barely use any peroxide and add O2 and how it's added.
Reading through just that line of postings will answer most of your current questions. Allot of posts start out with a mess and solutions as to what to do and why. You need to learn the why so you can learn how to fix what you did.
The posts so far trying to help you have been addressing your next questions but not addressing the process itself on how you got there.
Confusing me enough to step back and rethink.
You have testing solution which is great. Use it and see the reactions of your solutions. Don't worry what it means what right now.
Look at it as your first experiment on your path to learning how and why.
For now, concentrate on reading AP. Your solutions, you can put on low heat and evaporate down the volume. Do NOT boil... Boiling creates loss. And please make sure you control the fumes so everyone around is safe.
Learn this and your answers will make cents...literally in the long run.
B.S.
Good luck
When I got to 9 from this post http://www.goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=1900&p=16039#p16039
No amount of boiling would take out the discoloration. I was left with a much smaller amount of black pricipitant... No longer the brown mud... And just black muriatic solution.
No amount of boiling would take out the discoloration. I was left with a much smaller amount of black pricipitant... No longer the brown mud... And just black muriatic solution.
solar_plasma
Well-known member
Now you are somewhat fishing for the lesser warm welcome. You should consider to stop experimenting without having any clue and only read for some weeks. Impatience is your enemy.
solar_plasma
Well-known member
Keep the solutions anyway. You can easily test false positive or false negative in the beginning. Gold can be hidden by excess oxidizers, probably by complexes and by being in a colloidal state. Maybe there are more possibilities. And you need a standard gold solution for your tests to have something to compare with and to control your results.
bswartzwelder
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2011
- Messages
- 660
Good advice PantherLiker about having a standard gold solution.
The Q-Tip which has had a drop of stannous on it is showing a somewhat black color. Mine always show a very black color, but that's because of the concentration I make them. I always test my stannous chloride against a known (store purchased 1%) gold chloride solution. A drop the gold chloride on a Q-Tip and then a drop of my stannous on it and it turns a very deep, dark black. I know my stannous is not made exactly according to the way others make it, but it works very good for me. If I saw a Q-Tip like the one you have, I wouldn't think there was enough gold in the sample to make recovering it practical.
Make a guess as to how much gold you have, and then use a very small excess of chemicals to dissolve it. Let it sit somewhere safe out of doors where it won't be disturbed overnight. By the next day, the gold should be dissolved. Then, test your solution with stannous.
Read, Read, and do some more READING. Excess knowledge will not cause any harm. Excess stupidity can be fatal.
The Q-Tip which has had a drop of stannous on it is showing a somewhat black color. Mine always show a very black color, but that's because of the concentration I make them. I always test my stannous chloride against a known (store purchased 1%) gold chloride solution. A drop the gold chloride on a Q-Tip and then a drop of my stannous on it and it turns a very deep, dark black. I know my stannous is not made exactly according to the way others make it, but it works very good for me. If I saw a Q-Tip like the one you have, I wouldn't think there was enough gold in the sample to make recovering it practical.
Make a guess as to how much gold you have, and then use a very small excess of chemicals to dissolve it. Let it sit somewhere safe out of doors where it won't be disturbed overnight. By the next day, the gold should be dissolved. Then, test your solution with stannous.
Read, Read, and do some more READING. Excess knowledge will not cause any harm. Excess stupidity can be fatal.
solar_plasma
Well-known member
bswartzwelder said:
In order to avoid confusing, you can call me solar or Björn :lol:
To the OP:
You should read about the usage of a spot plate, it is far more precise. Harold has written a lot about it. You could search his posts for "spot plate" and "purple stain". Many of us use q-tips, too, but if we want to confirm implausible results or if the solution is dark, probably all of us will use the spot plate instead.
