Poor Man's AR for Ceramic CPUs

Gold Refining Forum

Help Support Gold Refining Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
samuel do you think there is sulfuric from cell in this batch? from reading seems this batch is from cell, washed, without inceneration, do you have a way to check PH?

the brown color of your stannous test fading away sounds to me as the gold may be dissolving back into solution.

an old pyrex coffee pot can work for heating vessel, and a hot plate, an old automatic coffee pot can work for a heat source (not as hot as a hot plate but will evaporate solutions), or an old electric crockpot, do you have acess to these or a second hand store?
 
qst42know - i'm using lab grade HCL 32% , that stuff that i bought was a fake and not pure. i learnd my lesson with this type os suppliers...

butcher -
i don't belive any sulfuric acid left in there. i rinsed with water 3x and then 3x with HCL the last HCL wash was in hot bath, poured it of and refreshed the HCL for dissolving. on the last addition of frsh HCL i didn't got the small of solfur like in the first time.... much much much less.

i just got hold on a new hot plate and will use it on sunday to do what steve has suggested... (evaporate to 1/3 of the volume)


i also belive that i used an exessive amount of chlorox, maybe the heating will help police all of the chlorine out of the solution.
the reasone that i think so also that there to much chlorine is that i see on the bottom small bubbles, indicating (to me, maybe i'm wrong) that the little powder that did precipitated is dissolving back to the solution...
also, the SMB does absorbed in the solution without droping anything.

i'll update in sunday.

Thank you all for your help
 
Update

steve, i did what that you suggested, took 300 ml of the AuCl3 and reduced it to 130 +- ml, that was when i noticed the salt crust on top.
no black powder droped, just salt (SMB?)
here it is:
View attachment 1


tested for gold... seem's negative:


and what's even more amazing is... that my still golden AuCl3 (main batch, the vassle behind the filter),after left sit for 2 dayes, actually tested also negative for gold, exactly like the tested solution above....

but it doesn't add up... the color, the very small precipitated powder... is there a chance the solution to be yellow/gold without containing gold?

does solfuric acid rsidue, maybe causing this behavior?

i'm completly lost...

Thank you very much...
SAMUEL
 
hello samuel
can i have you clairify that you used an Electrolitic deplating cell to get the gold powder .
OR are you treating powders from the bottom of your AP reaction vessel ?
[now days i'm using Ap for fingers and unpopulated boeards that contains foils.
also for pins, but come to a conclusion that it's just not effective to do so... so now, i'll use this method only for the very small scale pins and left over from the dismantling.

i just finished up sturate my CELL.
diluted yesterday (1:2.5 ratio)' i'm gonna wash with water 3x and then HCL 3x
would you recommend hot HCL wash?
/quote]

it is not really clear what you mean when you say "CELL" samuel

Steve if he is treating an AP reaction of gold plated pins he maybe treating the copper colliodes and gold powder and thinking its all gold and more should of dropped out of solution
copper colliodes produce yellow like solution in hcl/cl

lets get this clear samuel here you say
3 - i have no way of knowing how much powder is in there, according to my mesurments, there is around 80 grams of black powder... but, this does not sound reasonable to me, as i prosseced 1 Kg of medium grade pins and 20 or so CPU's... anyway, after dissolved and filterd, how much SMB should i add.... (40% SMB solution)?
one kilo of what you call medium could be low grade and 20 cpus means not a thing because 20 fiber cpus is not the same a pentium pro cpu
So tell us again what prosses did you use from the start and be clear

just trying to help
 
shyknee

the starting powder came exlusive from a deplating cell, added to it 0.2 g of allready droped and rinsed gold powder came from AP fingers process and HCL+Cl dissolving.

i wellcome your suggestion that maybe i dissolve an amount of copper that havn't got out with the HCL washes.
but, wouldn't it suppose drop with the gold while addind the SMB?

Thank you for your replay

SAMUEL
 
Your stannous test on known solution is so very faint.

Is your standard gold solution very weak or has your stannous gone bad?

Have you tested your rinse solutions?
 
yes, my stannous was a bit inactive when i tested and pictured.
when i'm adding a bit more tin and heat, i jump strat it again and get a better reaction to the gold... i was just rushing to get it done....

my gold solution is also not the strongest there is, but enaugh.

the rinses ware nagative.

BTW, most of the CPU ware ceramics P1 and fiber celerons

thanks, you guys.
 
samuel _a
if its from a stripping cell and it was saturated then I'm lost as to what happened to it some thing is not clear.
So dissregard my post I'm lost?

do you have pictures of the pins before and after deplating?
 
i can upload tomorrow the pictures

as far as how saturated the cell was... well i might be also wrong about it... this is my first time...
but i did had current without any plating... my be i was wrong?

i'll upload also the remnants that was left after i'v dissolved the gold from the cell, maybe someone can help me identify it, or tell me how to test it for PM's...

Thank you.

SAMUEL
 
I think you should start over, when you mixed all this stuff and without inceneration no telling what you have there or where, do you have zink, it will get your values out of solution as long as it is somewhat acidic, let settle, rinse, INCENERATE, then start over, eliminating base metals before going after values.
your gold may not be in the solution, as you seem to have had base metals in mix, your gold can still be with them.
and if you explain step by step not leaving out details you can get good help here, a detail not mentioned can make it hard for those trying to assist you.

sorry its hard to tell exactly what you have done. so help here is hard to advise.
 
OK

so, i have recoverd the powder that did precipitated from the main batch.
treated it with 3x water washes , 2x HCL wash , 1x hot HCL wash , 3x water wash.
turnd out to be 1.4 g.

here it is:
i had some loss dou to the heat evaporation process, some of the powder stuck to the beaker, i'll save it for next time when i dissolve some gold.
View attachment 2


here is a before and after of my pins:
low & medium quality
View attachment 1


and here is the gray left over in the filters:
all of that stayed behind after HCL+Cl treatment (and maybe coned me to think i have alot of gold in my cell, Maybe it is silver?)
 
looking at the type of pins you have there ,1.4g is about all there is from one kilo.
you have done good
next time let the cell hold more powders by trying to remove pin before the nickel deplates
 
Hello i am new to this site and i notice that everyone is obsessed with using AR to dissolve gold . Frankly most modern electronic scrap just has a small amount of gold with lots of base metal (iron and aluminum) so why spend money on nitric acid when all it does is supply oxygen and it is used primarly for fineness assays or final refining. There are cheaper oxidizers like hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) . Just use hydrocloric acid purchased from local retail , you dont need high purity or USP and use off the shelf hydrogen peroxide. put your cpu, jewelry ect in a pryex coffe pot or beaker and add just enough acid to cover it but leave room in the container to add H2O2. Save electricity heat the acid only to 130F you dont have boil the SHIQ out of it Add small amounts of hydrogen peroxide and look for hydrogen bubbles coming off the metal this means it is reacting and dissolving. When done let settle overnight and pour off into another clean glass container. Add distilled water and settle overnite two more times. Place a length of #14 clean bright copper wire in liquid of second container (just the end of wire in liquid not 3 pounds of it) stir slowly with glass rod (no metal or wood) once a day for 3 days . The black coating on the wire is gold and platinum group metals PGM only. save liquid from this and other runs and leave copper in it to recover any trace left in it (common practice) . If there is alot of gold the liquid will turn dark and a gold film will float on suface if this happen add more water and sink the film by whipping with small diameter copper wire acrross it and if you filter it you must burn the filter to recover the fine gold particals.
 
packrat said:
Hello i am new to this site and i notice that everyone is obsessed with using AR to dissolve gold . Frankly most modern electronic scrap just has a small amount of gold with lots of base metal (iron and aluminum) so why spend money on nitric acid when all it does is supply oxygen and it is used primarly for fineness assays or final refining. There are cheaper oxidizers like hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) . Just use hydrocloric acid purchased from local retail , you dont need high purity or USP and use off the shelf hydrogen peroxide. put your cpu, jewelry ect in a pryex coffe pot or beaker and add just enough acid to cover it but leave room in the container to add H2O2. Save electricity heat the acid only to 130F you dont have boil the SHIQ out of it Add small amounts of hydrogen peroxide and look for hydrogen bubbles coming off the metal this means it is reacting and dissolving. When done let settle overnight and pour off into another clean glass container. Add distilled water and settle overnite two more times. Place a length of #14 clean bright copper wire in liquid of second container (just the end of wire in liquid not 3 pounds of it) stir slowly with glass rod (no metal or wood) once a day for 3 days . The black coating on the wire is gold and platinum group metals PGM only. save liquid from this and other runs and leave copper in it to recover any trace left in it (common practice) . If there is alot of gold the liquid will turn dark and a gold film will float on suface if this happen add more water and sink the film by whipping with small diameter copper wire acrross it and if you filter it you must burn the filter to recover the fine gold particals.

Welcome pacrat, AP is what is suggested mostly here. Do some searching and a lot of reading. Good post you had there.
 
packrat said:
Hello i am new to this site and i notice that everyone is obsessed with using AR to dissolve gold . Frankly most modern electronic scrap just has a small amount of gold with lots of base metal (iron and aluminum) so why spend money on nitric acid when all it does is supply oxygen and it is used primarly for fineness assays or final refining. There are cheaper oxidizers like hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) . Just use hydrocloric acid purchased from local retail , you dont need high purity or USP and use off the shelf hydrogen peroxide. put your cpu, jewelry ect in a pryex coffe pot or beaker and add just enough acid to cover it but leave room in the container to add H2O2. Save electricity heat the acid only to 130F you dont have boil the SHIQ out of it Add small amounts of hydrogen peroxide and look for hydrogen bubbles coming off the metal this means it is reacting and dissolving. When done let settle overnight and pour off into another clean glass container. Add distilled water and settle overnite two more times. Place a length of #14 clean bright copper wire in liquid of second container (just the end of wire in liquid not 3 pounds of it) stir slowly with glass rod (no metal or wood) once a day for 3 days . The black coating on the wire is gold and platinum group metals PGM only. save liquid from this and other runs and leave copper in it to recover any trace left in it (common practice) . If there is alot of gold the liquid will turn dark and a gold film will float on suface if this happen add more water and sink the film by whipping with small diameter copper wire acrross it and if you filter it you must burn the filter to recover the fine gold particals.

I know you are just trying to help but the method you are talking about, HCl/H2O2, commonly called AP on the forum, has been covered 100s of times. It is the standard method used by many members. You really need to spend some time reading what's here
 
I can see that crock pot or AP might be much better than AR for pins but lets not forget about tumbler cell - that is even better method. It will not require that much of acid as AP does.
 
Thanks for the replys guys, I just found this site two days ago and there are alot of posts to read. I have been using solar electric power to make H2SO4 that is used in a saturated salt (NACL) with H2O2 solution to extract AU and some PD from dishes, drinking glasses ect in a green house that sometimes reaches a temperature of 120F. My best scarp gold recovery has been from very old eye glasses that were 12K gold fill (12k GF). I bought some modern jewelery marked GF but it had very little gold content. I recovered AU from a brass ingot that someone had melted electronic scrap into by making it the anode + and a stainless steel plate the cathode --- with H2SO4 and water as the electrolite ,all the base metal collected on the cathode and the residue on the anode was gold of course. but unless you had a source of cheap fuel i dont think this would pay off.
 
Hello packrat
I've been asking some questions about the HCL/H2O2 process you mentioned and I have been unable to get the answers I was looking for. You seem to have a straightforward way of talking so I will ask you.
Will the HCL/H2O2 process remove blacksand, pyrites and other free base metal particles from a placer concentrate screened to -100 mesh?
If the placer gold in this concentrate is only 90% gold, with the rest silver, copper, etc., will the HCl/H2O2 process leave pure gold in the concentrate, to be leached by another process?
Bob
 
Traveller11 said:
Hello packrat
I've been asking some questions about the HCL/H2O2 process you mentioned and I have been unable to get the answers I was looking for. You seem to have a straightforward way of talking so I will ask you.
Will the HCL/H2O2 process remove blacksand, pyrites and other free base metal particles from a placer concentrate screened to -100 mesh?
If the placer gold in this concentrate is only 90% gold, with the rest silver, copper, etc., will the HCl/H2O2 process leave pure gold in the concentrate, to be leached by another process?
Bob
most black sands concentrates tend to have a large quantity of sulphides, which tend to interfere with recovery. a good roast in an oxidizing flame (a cheap mild steel skillet is ok) until cons reach red hot or so, some reccomend up to an hour, will convert sulphides to oxides, & sometimes causes pyrites to "pop" exposing values that may be trapped inside. At this point extreme caution is advised, this process should only be performed outside or under an effective fume hood, as roasting arseno-pyrites releases arsenic, a deadly gas.

Your placer gold is never pure gold, regardless of how pure it looks. It is always alloyed with some other metal. The Acid-Peroxide (AP) seems to work best on exposed base metals, at least in my limited experience, such as the copper underneath fingers, and the copper/brass/nickel alloys in pins, the silver/tin/gold of the solder. On fingers & pins, you will be left with the foils, flat or pin-shaped tubes, as the exposed base metals are exposed. However, the alloy of the gold plating, if any, won't be broken down. it can be dissolved, if you add too much oxidizer &/or heat the solution, which would likely be counterproductive.

Though i have not performed such processes, Poor Man's AR, which is NOT HCl-H2O2 (AP), but heated 50:50 HCl/H2O with incremental additions of a nitrate, either sodium or potassium. I use Gordon's Stump Remover, 99% Potassium Nitrate, from a farm supply store. here in US they are named Tractor Supply, Orchlyns, or Runnings.
http://www.pbigordon.com/pdfs/StumpRemover-MSDS.pdf?zoom_highlight=stump+remover#search="stump remover"
It should dissolve your base metals, leaving you with elemental gold as a brown or black powder. once rinsed, the gold should be able to be leached with HCl-Clorine Bleach, allowing sand residues to be filtered off, then dropped with Sodium Metabisulphite (SMB) or Ferrous Sulphate.

Some may reccomend the use of Nitric Acid for such a process, but it is expensive, & produces much nitric Oxide, also a deadly gas.

If I could make a recommendation, search in the "Prospecting, etc...." topics. Go to lazersteve's signature line & use his google-enhanced search engine & use keywords, like "black sands", "placer gold", "concentrates". There isn't a one post answer to your question, I fear, & in the right section you have access to prospectors, miners, from the world over whose real-life experience & suggestions would carry more weight than mine, I believe.

Sometimes, (I paraphrase from hitchhiker's guide to the Universe series), the "answer to the puzzles of the universe is easy, but asking the right question is hard.

Just my dos centavos, amigo. I hope some of the more experienced members of the forum will chime in on this. They may be more likely to if they find the post under "Prospecting".

Good luck & hang in there.
 
Most black sands are already oxidized and mostly the sulfites have already naturally been converted to oxides now I am just talking about the black sands that are loose in creeks and earth near the surface, if they are deep or locked up in rocks were moisture and air can not get to them the will not be oxidized already.

I grind my black sands to a super fine dust. I then dampen them with water, note I said damp, like barely wet clumpy. I put them in a 5 gallon bucket that I have a lid for, I add in 1/4 cup HCL (in a container) placed so it will not spill (until I tip the bucket), next to this I place some (evaporated down to concentrate) chlorox 1/3 cup also in a cup so it will not spill.

I only fill the bucket 1/4-1/3 with the black sand concentrate.

I have a lid that I drill a 1/2 hole in to put on to seal the bucket when all of this is ready, I get a cotton ball or q-tip and dip it in ammonia, then I tip the bucket to spill the HCL and chlorox together the set level, this will release large amount of chlorine which I test for by putting the ammonia swab near the hole it it shows white fumes, I know that the bucket is full of chlorine gas. I put a cork in the hole (not to tightly, as this is also a make shift pressure relief valve).
I then roll bucket around tipped to a 45 degree angle to mix the chlorine gas and the left over HCL with the ground up material. I mix it several times for the next day or two.
when done remove the lid to vent left over chlorine. Then add enough water to cover the material and allow it to become liquid in consistancy, stir for about 5 minutes. Let this set for a few ours then pour off the water, it will contain any gold that reacted with the chlorine. reuse the rinse water to concentrate more gold into it.
I am terrible at explaining, but if you look up Plattners chlorination process you will get much better details.

Jim
 
Back
Top