Royally screwed !
- Thread starter Gwar
- Start date
Help Support Gold Refining Forum:
AMS-Pro
Well-known member
Progress. I'd definitely like to see a picture of the anode basket when hooked up, in operation.
Gwar
Well-known member
AMS-Pro
Well-known member
Thank you for the pictures. Well, it'll definitely work better with smaller amounts of silver anode at a time. The wire gauge, and the issues you had before make a lot of sense now. What is that, 18-20 gauge wire?
Gwar
Well-known member
Yes, 18-20 gauge..
AMS-Pro
Well-known member
That would definitely contribute to the heat you were getting. The wire is a quite a bit small/thin. I would go to a thicker gauge wire. What is the gauge coming from the supply?
Gwar
Well-known member
Between 10-12 Gauge.
AMS-Pro
Well-known member
Could you show me the connection where it switches from 10-12 to 18-20?
AMS-Pro
Well-known member
With that 5oz bar you were using as an anode, were you clipping the same wire to it?
Gwar
Well-known member
Gwar
Well-known member
Yes, the same alligator clip..
AMS-Pro
Well-known member
Okay, well, we can fix that, and make a better anode rather easily.
I know you just suffered the loss of your furnace and crucible, do you have a another way to melt your silver at the moment?
I know you just suffered the loss of your furnace and crucible, do you have a another way to melt your silver at the moment?
Gwar
Well-known member
Just a very small crucible.
AMS-Pro
Well-known member
I apologize the blueprint is a bit crude, but this should give you an idea of what to make with my description of an anode design.
The wire from the hook, to the anode is one long wire. 10 gauge wire is ideal.
*For others that are reading this with a translation program, the following typed below, is what is written on the paper with a little more description.*
Start with a 2ft.-3ft. Section of 10 gauge solid awg wire. Strip a small bit of insulation on one side and create a hook/loop, this end will be attached to the power supply (This is the image on top right of the blueprint.).
On the other end of the wire, remove 4in. - 5in. of insulation and make an L.
Using the L side of your wire section: Suspend the bottom part of the L (horizontal part) in the middle of your mold. You want the wire to be centered in the mold. Completely centered in the x-axis, y-axis, and z-axis. It should not be touching the mold. This is the solid black line on the blueprint with the dashed line box around the bottom part (Image on bottom left of blueprint.).
You will then proceed to pour your molten silver into the mold, completely covering the copper wire evenly on all sides (This is represented by the dashed line box, that is surrounding the solid line in the bottom left image of the blueprint.).
Once the silver has solidified, you will now have an ingot with the copper wire trapped in the middle. You have just made a silver anode that will connect directly to your power supply with no breaks in the connection. This design cuts out contact points (terminal points) that will add unnecessary resistance, and potential failure points.
Edit* Grammar, and added a description of blueprint for people using translation programs.
The wire from the hook, to the anode is one long wire. 10 gauge wire is ideal.
*For others that are reading this with a translation program, the following typed below, is what is written on the paper with a little more description.*
Start with a 2ft.-3ft. Section of 10 gauge solid awg wire. Strip a small bit of insulation on one side and create a hook/loop, this end will be attached to the power supply (This is the image on top right of the blueprint.).
On the other end of the wire, remove 4in. - 5in. of insulation and make an L.
Using the L side of your wire section: Suspend the bottom part of the L (horizontal part) in the middle of your mold. You want the wire to be centered in the mold. Completely centered in the x-axis, y-axis, and z-axis. It should not be touching the mold. This is the solid black line on the blueprint with the dashed line box around the bottom part (Image on bottom left of blueprint.).
You will then proceed to pour your molten silver into the mold, completely covering the copper wire evenly on all sides (This is represented by the dashed line box, that is surrounding the solid line in the bottom left image of the blueprint.).
Once the silver has solidified, you will now have an ingot with the copper wire trapped in the middle. You have just made a silver anode that will connect directly to your power supply with no breaks in the connection. This design cuts out contact points (terminal points) that will add unnecessary resistance, and potential failure points.
Edit* Grammar, and added a description of blueprint for people using translation programs.
Attachments
Last edited:
Gwar
Well-known member
Many thanks !! I will make one as soon as I get the heat source..
AMS-Pro
Well-known member
You're welcome, I hope it helps.
Directions for use:
You would fill your basket, and set this on top. When the basket gets low (before this piece would get to the electrolyte), lift up the anode, refill the basket, then set the anode back on top of the newly refilled basket.
This will allow you to eliminate the clip and smaller gauge wire. You can play around with the shape and molds you have available to figure out what works best for you, and allow the anode (foot let's call it) to fall, and lower, as the silver underneath it gets used up.
Edits* Spelling, grammar.
Directions for use:
You would fill your basket, and set this on top. When the basket gets low (before this piece would get to the electrolyte), lift up the anode, refill the basket, then set the anode back on top of the newly refilled basket.
This will allow you to eliminate the clip and smaller gauge wire. You can play around with the shape and molds you have available to figure out what works best for you, and allow the anode (foot let's call it) to fall, and lower, as the silver underneath it gets used up.
Edits* Spelling, grammar.
Last edited:
Gwar
Well-known member
I might have to turn it off for the night, how I wish the heat source was available, I could have made ounces of silver shot.. Thanks AMS-Pro, have a great night ! Mike
Gwar
Well-known member
AMS-Pro
Well-known member
Okay lol, I'll be rooting for your heat source to arrive early.
You're welcome again, I'm glad I could help. You as well, good night.
AMS-Pro
Well-known member
Expect small crystals for first 24 hrs. or so, 2-4 days of growing for good chunky crystals.
