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lol not trying to preach about coins just the silver in them~ but i wanted to let people know theres more value in some coins then just the spot silver at a collecters point of view.
 
I've got a few pieces of jewelry I found, metal detecting on the beach. Toe rings, regular rings, and ear rings, all stamped .925.

Let me know if you want that quality of silver and we'll work something out.

Some is tarnished with a purple coating, and some have a thick black tarnish, and some are looking just like silver.

I've cleaned some using an electrolysis method. Salted water with a bit of lemmon juice added, a stainless utensil, and a small transformer.

Well, let me know. I keep finding it.
 
Bob,

Welcome to the forum. The 925 sterling silver is (92.5 % silver 7.5% copper) and is great for inquarting gold.

I think Noxx was after a 100 grams or so of silver at one time, maybe he still is?

Steve
 
Thanks for the welcome to this fine forum Steve.

Detecting the beaches of southern NC is what I do mostly. Silver is the most common jewelry I find, but I do get an occasional gold piece.

The offer's good to anyone that needs some silver.
 
Bobg said:
Thanks for the welcome to this fine forum Steve.

Detecting the beaches of southern NC is what I do mostly. Silver is the most common jewelry I find, but I do get an occasional gold piece.

The offer's good to anyone that needs some silver.

What are you asking for it and how much of it do you have? PM or e-mail me if you would like.
 
Yes Noxx, that's about what I have.

30.8 grams in stamped 925, and 10.5 grams, i'm sure is silver, but the stamp is gone.
 
first off I would still consider myself a newbie but I do have some insight.

as to lazersteve and the others on the subject of using copper for your inquarts. Now i don't know about gold content because i mainly use it on sterling only i dont mess with jewelry yet but for sterling the content is usuallycopper or some tin (cheaper sterling) now if you are to use copper water piping blue strip not red. then you will not have lead added to your inquarts because of plumbing codes lead can no longer be allowed into drinking water piping (cold water blue strip) also any base metals left should come out using borax and a crucible during the smelting process. You can double check to see if im correct but thats what i believe and if im wrong please do inform me.

Now as for the coins. thats a good idea im gonna try it and for those who dont know the list here goes US coins:
Nickels 1942-45 35%, Dimes 1964 or older 90%, quarters 1964-older 90%, half dollar 1964-older 90% half dollar(kennedy) 196-1970 40%,


Canadian: Dimes 1858-1910 92.5%, 1920-1967 80%, 1967-1968 50%, Nickels 1858-1919 92.5%, 1920-21 80%, Quarters 1908-1919 92.5%,1920-1967 80% 1967-1968 50%
hoper this helps
 
johny00blaze said:
as to lazersteve and the others on the subject of using copper for your inquarts.

While copper works for inquartation, it requires double the amount of nitric acid for dissolution. Scrap sterling is by far a better choice, for you would have need to dissolve it anyway, assuming your objective was to refine the silver.

Now i don't know about gold content because i mainly use it on sterling only i dont mess with jewelry yet but for sterling the content is usually tin or some copper (cheaper sterling)

The term "Sterling" is not a random selection thing. Sterling is an alloy of 7½% copper and 92½% silver. Tin is not a component of Sterling.

now if you are to use copper water piping blue strip not red.

Not true. The difference in those two is the wall thickness, nothing more. Blue is L copper tube, red is M copper tube, with L being the heavier wall. There is also K tubing, but is not commonly found. It's the thickest wall available as copper tube of that type, not to be confused with schedule 40 copper pipe. The tube types are all made from identical copper, in all likelihood, electrolytic pure, to insure its workability in being manufactured.

also any base metals left should come out using borax and a crucible during the smelting process. You can double check to see if im correct but thats what i believe and if im wrong please do inform me.

Folklore. Borax does not remove contaminants, but it does remove oxides. If you melt any of your metals with borax, they will not be improved by the melting process, with rare exception. The use of soda ash and other reducing agents are even worse, returning the oxides to the lot by reducing them to the elements from which they came.

silver dollar 1794-1935 .999,

I don't think so. American coinage was struck from coin silver, not pure silver. Coin silver is an alloy of 90% silver, 10% copper, with coins struck with silver valued @ $1.29/ounce.

gold dollar 1849-1889 .999

Don't know about this one, but gold coins, in general, were struck from 90% gold, 10% copper, with gold valued @ $20.67/ounce. I'd find it strange for the dollar coin to vary from that formula.

Harold
 
Something to be aware of… the U.S. clad Kennedy half dollars 1965-1970 and U.S. clad Eisenhower dollar 1971-1976 are considered 40% silver. That is only true with coins that are not worn. The cores (middle layer) of these coins are 0.209 Silver and 0.791 Copper, the outer cladding is 0.800 Silver and 0.200 Copper. So the high percentage silver outer layers are the first to be worn away.
 
according to the 2008 red book about the clad Eisenhowers, there is a net weight of .3161oz pure silver in each coin.

That makes each coin worth about $5 in silver.

If you can get a lot of these at the bank or something at face value, is it even worth the time and effort to refine the silver?

kev
 
I think the silver clad Eisenhowers were just in mint
sets or special coins not for circulation. You won't find
any of those. The 40% Kennedy halves you may find.
Jim
 
check out the red book, its kinda confusing.

jimdoc said:
I think the silver clad Eisenhowers were just in mint
sets or special coins not for circulation. You won't find
any of those. The 40% Kennedy halves you may find.
Jim
 
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