I could burn them altogether and those that did not burn I could pick out in the end
AP solution for removing ic chips legs
- Thread starter joheleh
- Start date
Help Support Gold Refining Forum:
it is Geo, I watched an old video where he has used barrels to wash out the incinerated chips from one barrel to the other
Or, you could save a little gas and pick them out first.
Whichever works best for you. But look up the posts I mentioned before moving forward.
Old hillbilly saying:
There is no elevator to success, you have to take the stairs.
Whichever works best for you. But look up the posts I mentioned before moving forward.
Old hillbilly saying:
There is no elevator to success, you have to take the stairs.
That is true, I have tried to learn everything I can and do small experiments at the same time, I also keep some files with categories of methods and other stuff. Sometimes when I am looking to solve a problem the answer is in a small detail which is probably not in the ton of posts and for each answer there are probably other ten things which make that answer unclear.
@dpgold:
Plastic is not plastic and ICs are not all the same.
The plastic of connectors (like the 40 pin IDE/ATA connectors) is a kind of 'soft' plastic like PVC. If you put a burner on it, it will melt and burn.
The plastic of plastic ICs is harder and can't be bent. If you burn them, they will behave more than a piece of coal. They won't melt.
Ceramics will not burn and can't be bent.
You have to crush and/or mill them to reach the goodies inside.
Ceramic ICs are EPROMS (with the window on top), 386, 486, classic pentium, pentium pro (they aren't real black, more purple).
Or the very vintage white intel 4004.
They won't burn.
Plastic is not plastic and ICs are not all the same.
The plastic of connectors (like the 40 pin IDE/ATA connectors) is a kind of 'soft' plastic like PVC. If you put a burner on it, it will melt and burn.
The plastic of plastic ICs is harder and can't be bent. If you burn them, they will behave more than a piece of coal. They won't melt.
Ceramics will not burn and can't be bent.
You have to crush and/or mill them to reach the goodies inside.
Ceramic ICs are EPROMS (with the window on top), 386, 486, classic pentium, pentium pro (they aren't real black, more purple).
Or the very vintage white intel 4004.
They won't burn.
For ceramic cpu I had to break them with a hammer then used some water and some nitric acid
Filtered then used aqua Regia, ceramic cpus and chips are a bit easier the those other chips that you have to burn
HELLO.
Yes, i do know there is a lot of literature on the forum. Still, quick question.
My first batch i have done, i have first done a HCL+H2O2 shots (AP) on the chips to remove tin / solder from legs.
I did get the copper cementing on legs when i added more chips to the batch so i am not entirely sure this is the way to go.
Now, I have a batch of already pyrolized chips, to which i did not do this. so all solder is still present.
If i do an HCl boil on the concentrate from that, or an HCl boil with some of that CuCl2 that i got from the previous batch don't i risk sending gold into solution? hot HCl may dissolve fine gold.
would also be nice to avoid wasting precious nitric to get rid of base metals.
Thanks in advance
HCl do not dissolve Gold, unless it has oxidizer present.
HCl will take the solder though.
I bought some diamond tile drills, which cost around 20 €/$ for a set. Using a fixture that I made for my drill press, I cut out the inner 10 x 10 mm area that holds all the PMs. I understand that it might sound like a lot of work, but in fact, spending one afternoon can help you drill out a few kilos of chips. Zero chemicals are needed. No chemical waste.
They are ideal for hard surfaces like in some chip housings and can be obtained from Amazon f.e. Check for single cheap tools, they are ok for this purpose.
After drilling, you can grind or hammer the remains, or begin with chemical processes. This reduces the volume to around 20%-30% of its initial volume and eliminates almost all leadframe Base Metals.
I haven't seen anyone do it this way before, so once I find the time to do it clearly, I will post some pictures. I suggested reducing the size in the "Gold from Scrap" book to reduce the use of chemicals, waste, and spending money.
If you don´t have a drill press you may even use pliers to trim those chips, down to a much more efficient size. The "standard" size for the die that holds the PMs is usually 10 x 10 mm.
They are ideal for hard surfaces like in some chip housings and can be obtained from Amazon f.e. Check for single cheap tools, they are ok for this purpose.
After drilling, you can grind or hammer the remains, or begin with chemical processes. This reduces the volume to around 20%-30% of its initial volume and eliminates almost all leadframe Base Metals.
I haven't seen anyone do it this way before, so once I find the time to do it clearly, I will post some pictures. I suggested reducing the size in the "Gold from Scrap" book to reduce the use of chemicals, waste, and spending money.
If you don´t have a drill press you may even use pliers to trim those chips, down to a much more efficient size. The "standard" size for the die that holds the PMs is usually 10 x 10 mm.
Last edited:
HCl may dissolve fine gold while boiling, the oxidiser is air. I did see on youtube fine gold being given a HCl boil and the HCl turning light yellow.
Martijn
Well-known member
Iron chloride is yellow, so is a bit of silver chloride in concentrated HCL.
Can you provide a link to that video? I think you misunderstood.
Because HCL will not dissolve gold. With fine gold, you mean gold powder after precipitation? That is a washing process. Continue dissolving the contaminations until no more color( yellow) is visilbe in the wash.
Not everything is what it seems to look like.
Can you provide a link to that video? I think you misunderstood.
Because HCL will not dissolve gold. With fine gold, you mean gold powder after precipitation? That is a washing process. Continue dissolving the contaminations until no more color( yellow) is visilbe in the wash.
Not everything is what it seems to look like.
As Martijn says it might be just contaminations.
If there has been oxidizers(Oxygen, Clorine or Nitric) left, it can dissolve minute amounts until spent, that will however be visible in a Stannous test.
Wash waters can safely be poured into the Stock pot if you are in doubt.
Then you will reclaim it later.
Only if extremely fine and some oxidizer present.
Oxygen will do it, so boiling hard will bring some oxygen into the HCl, or bubbling air in an AP solution.
It is still in the micro gram amounts and barely detectable. So that is why we have the stock pot.
And this is why videos can never give the full story. They are good for the basics at times, but can never give the full information to be able to understand all the possible variables that can go wrong. Let alone how to fix them. You have to be able to, at a minimum, understand some basics of the chemistry involved.
I’m not sure ball milling will be fine enough.
Freshly dropped Gold will sometimes dissolve in minute amounts.
Where are you going with this?
Martijn
Well-known member
He is washing precipitated gold with HCl.
He did not not test that wash solution with stannous. Even kadriver can be wrong sometimes.
The washing is described very well on this forum. All say: keep washing with HCl until it stays clear. Yellow is not always gold.
