Hi Richard,
if u noticed, i try to focus the maximum on the gold reactions and today i learned that all gold chlorides : AuCl, AuCl4-, HAuCl4, AuCl3 and Au4Cl8 are also subject to light dissociation. Yes the simple day light can let the gold goes out , evaporates (of course specially) if the beacher is not COVERED.
It's a bit comprehensive as the Cl2 molecule is subject to dissociation when exposed to light.
Let's say w'll work from now on on a candel light by night...to resolve this problem definitly. and secondly COVER always any gold chloride solution to avoid any evaporation.
Now about Urea, i was incriminating urea for a while to be the most step ruining me...after some essay's i noticed that i can recover 98% of my dissolved buttons recovered with the use of urea to neutralyse the NOx's AND any excess of HNO3. why the HNO3 ? i insist on this coz steve says somewhere that Urea only react to eliminate's the NOx's and not the HNO3. It's false. (forgive me Steve if it was not u who said that)...
Coz Urea reacts with HNO3 like this:
5 (NH2)2CO + 6 HNO3 ---------> 8 N2 + 5 CO2 + 13 H2O
and also can react this way giving urea nitrate in solution :
(NH2)2CO + HNO3 ------------> CO(NH2)2.HNO3
So Urea swing both ways...
and why it's my favorite way of denoxing , it's coz it reduce the TIME of denoxing especially when we used an excess of HNO3, in the case we don't know the exact mass of gold we expect. + The reason of we cant denox with heat without letting the solution UNCOVERD.
Ok here i follow the advices to put cristal urea in hot water before adding it little by little in my AR to denox tille it stops fizzing definitly.
hope all this helps
if u noticed, i try to focus the maximum on the gold reactions and today i learned that all gold chlorides : AuCl, AuCl4-, HAuCl4, AuCl3 and Au4Cl8 are also subject to light dissociation. Yes the simple day light can let the gold goes out , evaporates (of course specially) if the beacher is not COVERED.
It's a bit comprehensive as the Cl2 molecule is subject to dissociation when exposed to light.
Let's say w'll work from now on on a candel light by night...to resolve this problem definitly. and secondly COVER always any gold chloride solution to avoid any evaporation.
Now about Urea, i was incriminating urea for a while to be the most step ruining me...after some essay's i noticed that i can recover 98% of my dissolved buttons recovered with the use of urea to neutralyse the NOx's AND any excess of HNO3. why the HNO3 ? i insist on this coz steve says somewhere that Urea only react to eliminate's the NOx's and not the HNO3. It's false. (forgive me Steve if it was not u who said that)...
Coz Urea reacts with HNO3 like this:
5 (NH2)2CO + 6 HNO3 ---------> 8 N2 + 5 CO2 + 13 H2O
and also can react this way giving urea nitrate in solution :
(NH2)2CO + HNO3 ------------> CO(NH2)2.HNO3
So Urea swing both ways...
and why it's my favorite way of denoxing , it's coz it reduce the TIME of denoxing especially when we used an excess of HNO3, in the case we don't know the exact mass of gold we expect. + The reason of we cant denox with heat without letting the solution UNCOVERD.
Ok here i follow the advices to put cristal urea in hot water before adding it little by little in my AR to denox tille it stops fizzing definitly.
hope all this helps